G63B roller rocker upgrade?

Hey all, i read in another build thread on this site about the roller rockers from a Mitsubishi galant that may swap over? are they hydraulic also? and what ratio? i'm about to do the jet-valve block off kit on this unmolested 1989 Mighty Max G63B i got for CHEAP (that's another story) and figured while i was in there i might as well get Schneider to re-grind the cam and upgrade the valve train to rollers and new springs and seals.

Has anyone else done this far of a upgrade before? like i said i got the truck for cheap like $300 cheap with 148,000 miles on it from a little old couple, nothing has every been touched on this thing, stock timing belt and everything. and since i don't have to pass emissions where i am in Tenn i gutted everything and bought the Aussie header and a Weber 32/36 kit for it with some other add on's and i'm building a custom true dual paired cylinder exhaust with a xpipe and a dual in-let out-let muffler with dual tips through a hole in the rear rocker . i'm still in the process of buying more parts for the build like MSD and the eclipse flywheel and a 225mm clutch and such but i just wanna just make the thing a stripped down lean machine meant for fun driving not daily comfort, i have a miata for that. i think it would be hilarious to run even with some newer cars in a 25 year old truck!

Hi Hive, As a matter of fact I have a set from a Galant I want to install on my truck. I grabbed the roller rocker assembly, hydraulic lifters with the cam and nuts and bolts, valve cover and cam gear. I was getting tired of the flat tappet noise that mine makes and was going to replace to the gallant parts. These parts will all fit, but they won't interchange. By this I mean the cam the galant is obviously different with the thinner lobes and if I am not mistaken the cam gear also needs to ride along with all the parts because of the cam gear pin.
What I have found with the G63B, is everything can be mixed between the 2 Shortblocks, everything except the block itself and back plate on wideblock & narrowblock. The intake manifolds will interchange to upgrade. The heads are also basically the same except for the married parts that are installed at factory. The subtle differences like the narrow cam lobes verses the wide, short cam pin verses long, changes in cam gear depth thicknesses, etc. make the differences. My motor I have in my 1st gen 5 speed 86 Mits MM narrowblock is in fact half 2nd gen G63B with many internal engine parts from an automatic transmission 87 wideblock truck.
But, what your doing or want to do is exactly what I have planned to do. The flat tappet will give more horsepower from what I have read, but they can be a little noisy if not adjusted correctly. I have to send the cam to them which will only be a labor charge.
On my flat tappet cam grind, Schneider charge $125 for the grind which was not bad, but to get the best out of it, you need to get distributor re-curved on advance because the stock advancing is no benefit. Among other mods like headers or weber will help also as well. Weber 38 would be beneficial if you drive freeway a lot or like to push the pedal down. But, you can also get a carb sync kit to remove the progressive 32/36 carb linkage setting and a special mod jetting kit customized exactly for your truck to increase HP even more.

sweet, well i went junk yard shopping today and found a fulling intact 92 galant. i took the whole cylinder head,cam gear,rocker train,and valve cover for only $100!! i wasn't planning on taking the whole head but when i saw that it never came with jet-valves from the factory and had the rollers, why not? i understand about the distributor having to be re-curved and all i just have no clue where to send it. where did you get your's done at? also i though the weber 32/36 would be plenty for this truck with a good street cam. did you go with the 274 or 264 grind?

Also, have you ever compared the stock cam to the thin lobed roller cam from the galant? Do you know if they are the same size and duration? Or is the galant cam a upgrade as well? Trying to decide if it's worth having the cam ground and distributor done or just slap this new head on and go.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BradMph

By this I mean the cam the galant is obviously different with the thinner lobes and if I am not mistaken the cam gear also needs to ride along with all the parts because of the cam gear pin.

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hey there after much measuring and research i have found this to be untrue. both the slip shoe rockers and the galant roller rockers are 1.5 ratio. meaning there is no harm running them on the stock cam. i have read threw a ton of post from starion/conquest people in the search for roller rockers for their Mitsubishi motors and found that the biggest problem they have is the rockers that are trying to upgrade to are 1.6 ratio vs the factory 1.5 giving two much lift and changing the power band too much

Cam specs:
4g63 sohc (galant roller cam)
At .050 intake 220, exhaust 219
Cam lift intake .278, exhaust .279

G63b sohc (mighty max slipper cam)
At .050 intake 222, exhaust 224
Cam lift intake .281, exhaust .283

The truck cam is slightly bigger, I'm guessing to offset the fast that it was a hydro/slipper shoe cam vs. the hydro/roller set up of the galant

Are those YOUR cam specs? Those surely don't look stock @ .050

I did the roller conversion about in '09, got the 'mid' grind from Schneider and told the guy
what i was doing and he said that they supply a company out west (?) with the 2.6 regrinds and don't have problems with them.
I also went with his recommendations on springs (forgot the specs)

Had a local shop re-drill the offset pin hole for a 4deg advance (also Schneider said that it would be OK) self ported the bare clear-water head, modded the intake some, plugged the EGR passage in head, Weber 32/36, pace setter full length header, and drove it for a couple years..
The Yota rear that I did was found at a pull it just laying there under the truck, but it was like a 2.73 gear or something and was a D O G on the road.
Barely get out of it's own way... And got crappy mileage.
Got another honda and then found my son a CHERRY 86 ram50 (with only 42K on it) and swapped the head/cam/header etc... on to it and drove it for a couple years. BUT, it was an auto and didn't shift like it should have.

I was pretty disappointed in the performance of it but when I swapped the heads, I noticed that the spring pressure must be too tight and was cupping the tops of the valves. (I used turbo valves and the exhaust ones are hard to find and sodium filled)
The rockers must have at least 10K miles on them and when I do the overdrive trans swap in it (for son) I'll pull the head again and look to see if
the rocker shaft has wear or not.

I tried to get back with the person I got the rockers from on Ebay but that 'name' is no longer selling... If I can remember correctly, he said they were from a V6 engine not a 4cy.
Never looked at the ratio, but when I was messing with the cam, they looked to be right over the valve stem and not off to one side.

I'll try and help if you have q's but man, it's been a while.

Errol

I didn't want to divert the object of the thread, but the orig max is getting a 5.2 magnum with a NV3500 5spd, but got several
other projects going on at the same time and it's 'sitting' looking sad.

E

this is what i was going off of. it's a cam supplier. i was using the years that they provided to narrow down the cams

1984-1988 G63B 2.0 SOHC camshaft (truck)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-1988-Mi...item4177bf8a08

1989-1992 4G63 2.0 SOHC camshaft (galant)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-1992-Mi...item3f2a40861c

your also talking about the 2.6 where as i am talking about the 2.0. in my research about the roller rockers i did do quite a bit of reading over on the starion/conquest boards and what you are talking about is people trying to swap the 1.4 stock rocker ratio rockers for 1.6 ratio rockers off a different motor. the "theory" was that the higher ratio would lead to bigger valve lift and thus more power and performance, but it had VERY mixed results from members. some said they wouldn't let the valve close all the way and they lost power, and some said it shifted the power band so high into the RPM range that it wasn't usable.

if you think those cam specs are narly you should check out this CLEVITE stock replacement cam for the 2.4L
CLEVITE 229-2236 it has .291/.291 intake/exhaust lift right out of the box. no clue what lift at .050 is though, i couldn't find that information

the 1.6 roller rockers used on the 2.6 were from the 3.0 v6 mitsu motor. To get the best results, you have to have a cam matched to use them to not create a lift too high that kills the flow and the valve springs - there is a max lift on these 2.6s that beyond it loses power big time. Stock rockers were 1.45 to 1.5 depending on the year of 2.6 and if they were mechanical or hydraulic. These motors do better with longer duration, not more lift.

Yep, that's the same info I ran across. But just to clear up any confusion I was talking about the G63B 2.0, which has 1.5 ratio rockers in either hydraulic slipper, hydraulic roller, and full mechanical.