Don't know where to start...

Greeting everyone! This is my first post here. I have had a 87 Mighty Max 2.6L 4WD sitting out front. It is still in great condition, has great bones and would like to get it up and running.

My parents had been working on it while I was away and so far these are the problems we've run into:
- head was cracked
- needs pistons
- needs new clutch

Sounds simple enough...

I've researched some parts on eBay, but they're listed as new head for "RWD" only or "with Turbo"? Would I not be able to use that for mine?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Cyl...e11291&vxp=mtr

Would I be better of buying a rebuilt engine? (Would like to stray away from that...)
Is there websites you would recommend I order them from?
Anything else I should consider ordering before I buy?

I'd greatly appreciate any help with this.

That head should be fine. Its a non jet valve head so less prone to cracking. Same price as the one from Here.http://cylinder-heads.com/products.c...id=88&catid=27. Rear wheel and 4 wheel drive have the same engines in the Ram 50's so the Mitsubishi's should be the same. You can try here for the pistons and clutch. If you are doing the head, I would recommend doing the timing and balance shaft chains and guides also. Try here for the rest of the stuff. http://www.rockauto.com/ They should have the gasket set also. You will need the rebuild gasket set.

Cracked heads are repairable, usually cracked between valves is typical and easy to fix. Depending on machine shop prices in your area, figure for a shortblock rebuilt about $500-$600 complete. Clutches are everywhere and a F1 stage 1 clutch would be fine for a replacement. Be careful what parts you buy, pistons and rings sometimes are imported from China and though they have a good price they are crap for long lasting in a rebuild. I think my machinist got some from LA somewhere and were OEM. Just got to look and you'll find them. I would leave that stuff up to the rebuilder also. Your not even sure what size you need I imagine. 20-30 or 40 overs depending on if it's been rebuilt before or has deep damage requiring more metal removal.


One more thing, Welcome to the forum. Ask any questions you may have because we are addicted to answering questions.

Thanks for the help guys.
So I don't need to buy a new head then? I know the machine shop they took it to said it was a hairline crack I believe... I can't even tell there's a crack but they marked where they were, and were wanting asking 300 to weld it clean? Figured I might as well buy a new head for that price...
How would I find out which piston size? I don't think it's been rebuilt before.
Would pictures help at all?

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...521_174612.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...521_174622.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...521_174515.jpg

For 300 bucks I would give them a call and ask them if they would include cleaning up the valve train and do a valve lap job too for that price. There's no harm in haggling especially if you can buy a new head for the same price. Just my 2 cents.

That looks like an MCA jet valve in the head. You can also find heads at clear water heads in Florida. IDK how much they are but yours is not cracked that bad.

I would get a new head. Once you have a crack, the structural integrity is greatly dampened, even when repaired. Auto Parts Warehouse makes heads for our trucks that are $210 brand new. You can lap your own valves. The lapping tool and compound is about $15 at Autozone.

Put a NEW complete head on my 2.6 it was $660.00 but the piece of mind worth it, take the bock in and get it worked and new pistons for it. What you put into it you will save in truck payments and even more on deprecation of a newer vehicle.

Clearwater Cylinder Head Inc sells a new non jet valve head with the valve train for $375

Thanks for the advice everyone. Hopefully I can get it running soon.