What kind of relay and oil pressure safety switch do I need to get? I've been searching the site for the wiring information but haven't found it . I know it's here, just not doing something right.
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What kind of relay and oil pressure safety switch do I need to get? I've been searching the site for the wiring information but haven't found it . I know it's here, just not doing something right.
The instructions for the P4070 say an A-68301 pressure safety switch should be used. I assume that is a Carter part#.
You can get technical advice directly from Carter-the number is 1-800-325-8886: call Mon-Thur 7:30AM-4:30PM and Fri 7:30AM-4:00PMCST.
Good luck.
Thanks originalowner. Went to the local parts store today and picked up an adapter that converts the threads from the block into 1/8 npt. Got an oil pressure safety switch and an oil pressure sender that are 1/8 npt. Then went to the hardware store and got a brass tee and couple of nipples. Maybe I can get it wired up now. The locals have no idea what I'm doing unless it's original to the car! Sad but VERY true!
By the way, he didn't even know that he had the adapter!
LOL. Pretty typical, but not surprising. The Weber carb retrofit to the pre-90s Montero's, Raiders, MMs and D50s are just pure old school that's all.Quote:
Originally Posted by kla94
This is why this site is your friend. :thumbup:
Ya'll have helped me allot. Wish I could help out in return. If anyone needs help with tractors, older ford idi diesels or house repairs, I have knowledge with those.Quote:
Originally Posted by originalowner
Been trying to get my oil pressure safety switch wired in. I have what is supposed to be a replacement for the vega. It says that terminal 2 is normally closed to ground and terminal 1 and 3 normally open. I assume that the center terminal is number 2. I wired it like the carter instructions says but it doesn't run when the engine is running. If I swap the terminals it runs with the engine off. I have a wire from the switch to terminal 2, a wire from the starter to terminal 1 and the pump wire to terminal 3. The pump runs while the starters engaged. I know this is a simple fix, guess I just want to make it difficult!
terminal 1 is normally closed (NC)- terminal 2 is common - terminal 3 is normally open(NO). Run wire from solenoid lead on starter to terminal 1 NC, run switched +12v to terminal 3 NO, and run wire from terminal 2 common to pump. If it doesn't run, reverse the terminal 1 and 3 wires. Let us know if you get it running. I have the same switch on Geronimo for 30 years, so I know it will work. Actually it is the second switch - the first one the seals in the switch failed and started hemmoraging oil after 25 years out the back of the switch.
Thanks pennyman. I swapped the wires last night and it ran while the engine wasn't running. It was in the teens here so I didn't mess with it too long. I'll try again today and let you know the ooutcome. I did run a wire from the switch to the pump and got it timed and tuned. Took her for a spin and VERY happy with the weber! Gotta adjust the kickdown a little more. Trans shifts great, just shifts out too soon.
I will check the switch pinout and get back to you - i was in the house and didn't want to go out to the garage last night - too cold and recovering from anesthesia after a colonoscopy procedure.
Don't worry about it right now. Get your rest man. I've been there, had one of those about three years ago. The day before the procedure is horrible.
It's a work in progress car for my daughter. Nothing has to be done urgently. Just getting it ready for the road. It's been in the single digits to teens for a couple of days here. I work in it during the day and just can't get motivated to do a whole lot to it when I get home! Lol
Tried wiring it like you said. It runs with the key on. Tried swapping them, and the starter engaged with the key on. Think they give me the wrong switch.
Get a wells ps128 - the pinout I gave you was clockwise with the middle terminal down. If you have a ohmmeter, you can easily find the common, NC and NO terminals and use the switch they gave you.
Thanks again pennyman. I know that I'm making this more difficult than it really is.
I'm assuming that the terminals are numbered as the number 2 being the center terminal.
on mine they are marked P(1),S(2), and I(3)
Mine are not marked but the center terminal is silver and the two outer terminals are copper.
what is the part number on your switch?
Carquest 57110. Terminal 2 closed to ground. Terminal 1 and 3 normally open.
how are you checking it - none of the terminals should read to the case - if it is then it is a sensor, not a switch. Go back to Carquest and have them cross reference the wells ps128 switch - its for a late 70s vega and monza
Thanks pennyman. Apparently, he didn't know what he was talking about.Lol I went to the carquest website and got a description on my part number. The guy at carquest has been in parts for years, but as I said, if it doesn't come on the vehicle, he doesn't know. I've run into this with my ford truck. Anything out of standard is foreign language! Thanks again for your time and help. I'll get it soon. He also gave me an oil sending unit that pegs the oil gauge when you turn the key on, then works after the pressure comes up.
Glad you figured it out - the right switch makes all the difference!
So it's been a while. I got my switch figured out, but the stupid switch is too weak to disengage half the time! Went to the parts store with the wells part number and they still couldn't figure it out. Gotta love them! lol But I figured it out, just gotta get a little higher psi switch now. Finally found a shroud also. Everything's finally coming together now.