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This is my new project. Instead of fixin' it and drivin' the piss out of it, im gonna tear it all down and do a good build from the ground up! I'll post more pics once i get it parked in my yard lol. Also I will try my best to keep the thread alive and up to date!
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Psssssst.......... you're missing 4 cyl :P
I dont get what your sayin? lol
His truck has a 302 ford swap - hence fordubishi. From the looks of the truck, it has a 2.6l g54b motor, and has a 3.91 open differential, and has the sport package. You also have the rare dock installed a/c and the optional brush guard. Geronimo looked a lot like that when I first bought him new in 1980, although he was black with the 4 color stripping.
Ahh ok lol. SOO who do i need to talk to about modifying one of these 4cyl? Im use to the V8s but I want to turn this into a nice little boosted engine B)
The starquest (starion / conquest) cars from mitsu were the factory turbo cars - the motors were truck motors that were turboed. The crank and rods are forged in the truck block; the turbo motors had oil squirters to squirt oil on the underside of the pistons to cool them, but its not necessary if the rest of the motor is built right. Check out the starquest forums for mountains of info on what can be done with these motors. There are also a lot of info on 4g63 swaps - it all depends on how you want to go. I have a conquest turbo motor I am building for Geronimo, but instead of fuel injection, it will use a weber dcoe in a draw through configuration
For the 2.6, going boosted means ya likely need to find yourself an 88 or 89 Starion/Conquest to donate a brain and the FI bits. Turbo side, look around, there's still aftermarket T3 manifolds out there. Recently found a stainless T3 manifold on Fleabay. No lack of turbo units to be had.
I have no idea if these folks still sell anything, but this article is worth a read: http://www.racetep.com/tips.html
They're talking about the Starquest, but the same applies to your engine irregardless of the vehicle it's currently stuffed in.
They are still around, but their stuff is pricey and of questionable quality. But it is a good starting point to see what is available.
Its supposed to be a better setup to run the 88-89 starion, but you can use an earlier model as well. I used an 87 donor car with an 88 computer
Sorry for the lack of updates. Im at the grandparents for the weekend and I've been driving back and fourth workin' on the ole D50. I started tearing into the engine, looking into the source of the problem...and discovered some interesting curve balls on the way to repair....to say the least HAHA
That head is not looking good - the valves are sunk into the seats. The cat in the exhaust manifold has melted due to a lean running engine overheating the cat. You need to look over the carb to see what its working order is. You may need a new head or at least a valve job with new seats.
Yea im dropping everything off at the machine shop tomaro to be dipped in the vat to clean them. And them im gonna have them do a good machining on the head. BTW i realized when i was taking the motor apart that its actually a 2.0, not the 2.6. Motor is pretty fresh, no major ring grove. Timing chain is in good condition and the motor has excelent compression in all cylinders. It just couldn't breathe!
No that is defiantly a 2.6, the 2.0l and 2.4l are a timing belt engine while the 2.6 is a timing chain engine, the under hood sticker says its 155.92 CI, and the 2.0 is 121 CI, besides that the 2.6 has its own unique valve cover, and even spaced intake and exhaust ports on the head.
The 2.0L was an automatic trans.
The engine has been swapped...
Did you just swap the engine? The 2.0 and 2.6 has their own unique features, it is a 2.6 because the 2.0 is a timing belt engine, not chain. The image at the bottom of the post is a 2.0.
This is a 2.0 engine
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/3476/cimg2359r.jpg
This is a 2.6
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/a...ghtymax006.jpg
Ok, IDK if I got confused or what! lol but its a U-engine. It may seem interesting to yall...but if i recall right...the engine numbers are 4G52. which is a Canada block if im right?
That I do not know, but normally the American imports are called G54B's
Ok if its a 4g52 it is a 2.0, its the same series of motor as the 2.6, only seen in earlier first gens i believe.
I need some help with some parts identification from the D50 xperts! What exactly is the carb in the first pic? And what is that in the 2nd and 3rd? (looks like its for an automatic trans. And wth is the last pic of? lol
But remember the hood said 155.93 CI, haha, I really don't care what it is, i think it is a 2.6. Anyway, I have only owned 2nd gen pickups, a 2.0 (RIP) a 2.6 4x4 and will be getting a 2wd 2.4, that carb is a minuki carb, but the second gens dont have all that other stuff, actually are you talking about what you are holding in the third picture, that actually might be the automatic tranny kickdown linkag.
One of the previouse owners installed a manual 4 speed and the 4G52 engine. Yea that looked like it went to a automatic trans and sombody was too lazy to take it out. Im deleting the WHOLE evap system...worthless and takes up too much room. im gonna try to get rid of all the vacume hoses as possible too. This isnt the first rebuild ive done to a truck...but i know this will be the best yet >:)
Good luck with the rebuild. Btw, there is supposed to be an engine identification stamp somewhere on the block. Not sure where yours might be but I know it should have one. Don't see much 1st gen trucks around here (where I live).
Yes there is. Its on the passenger side of the engine. 4G52
I'll be damned...a chain timed even exhaust 2.0l. Thought that valve cover looked odd, but just put it up to it being older.
If yer not going to use that engine...I think I see mechanical rockers on that thing (picture kinda small, hard to tell..)? I'd buy em off ya in a heartbeat if they are indeed mechanical. If ya are, just feel free to ignore me!
4g52 is a chain cam 2.0 from 79-82 available in 4spd (wide) and auto (Narrow) versions in base trucks. 2.6 auto blocks were also narrow block bolt pattern till 87 - be careful if you go to swap motors - 12.5 is narrow block , 13.25 is wide block, measured across the 2 lower bolt holes center to center. That truck being a sport should have a 2.6 in it.
Yes its stamped on the block. 4G52
Idk why i just posted that...lol.
Engine numbers are
G52B
52F26248
Could sombody look it up and tell me exactly what motor it is and where it came from please.
Look 3 posts up at Pennyman's post.
Go into the manual section. Look for the first gen factory manual. In there is a vin# decode page. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DOPRIUS
Its not the factory motor that came with the truck. It has been swapped, so has the trans.
engine application data
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/m...plications.htm
Ok well I ran into a roadblock while dissasembling the head...its no good. Looks like my big plans of swapping to a 4.8 Vortec will comence.
Well luck isnt on my side (story of my life)...my car has cracked the flywheel FOR THE 3RD TIME...so Im about to aquire a Vortec 350 with 4L60e transmission behind it, to get the little D50 running for a daily. YUP
Sorry about the car but looking forward to seeing the v8 build thread.
Thanks. Yea Ive seen V8 dakotas with the little chrisler V8s that are fast. But they wont be anything compared to this truck when I put the motor in. It WILL be a sleeper...it WILL need drag radials haha
No you won't need drag radials you'll need a truck to "drag" the broken "chevy" home :devil2:
IKR thats what im sayin hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Fordubishi
This is my inspiration for the D50. The guy has less than 4,000 in the car and it runs 9s.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TWX8EZD2ek
This is my quick rendering of what i want it to look like.
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:shakehead:What no paint or bodywork,? just drop it and rideQuote:
Originally Posted by DOPRIUS
Well you gotta realize i did all of this with paint! LOL no fancy photo shop or anything like that. If you look at the other picture of it on my thread you can see that i did do some body work to it.
Ment toupload this one
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Do you know how to make a Ford run faster ?? Put a Chevy motor in it:devil::hi::clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordubishi
Never fails!Quote:
Originally Posted by 92bluemax
I was defending you from the comment in # 40
The turbos i will be using (GT35s)
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The tranny (th400 with high pressure valve body)
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The engine (fully stock 4.8 Vortec)
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nice 1st gen project. looks like u got pretty good plans 4 it
Shes gonna be a hell of a sleeper haha
i can only imagine.. lol and IMO those are da best types of builds. wolf in sheep's clothing :grin: nobody will know, except u. lol
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Been busy...got the truck moved to my house! FINALLY! Also pulled the engine and trans, makin' room for the V8!
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Got another good day of work in. Didn't do a whole lot but it was productive. Trying to get the truck down to a healthy weight for 9s.
too bad someone switched the 3 spoke sport steering wheel for the 2 spoke regular wheel - wonder it the whole column was switched. That was a Sport model truck from what I see there - was it a 2.0 4 spd or 2.0 5spd? BTW - another use for a grocery cart - well worth the quarter you paid to get one from the market...:lmao:
It had an engine swap. Chained 2.0 with 4 speed.(for sale) And I actually found this shopping cart in the ditch by my house...LOL
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Cut most of the rust out on the driver side. Still gotta cut the passenger side and cut the tranny tube when I get the engine and tranny
Going Monday to pick up the engine for Latrine. And hopefully will have my old tranny delivered to me this week so that I can rebuild it!
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GOT THE 5.3!!! Starting to take all the useless stuff off and clean it up!
You should of just pulled truck into a sand storm for an over all sandblasting. YOu got some work ahead of you with rust. Guess you'll be buying a 55 gallon drum of rust inhibitor for paint prep. Luv the 5.3, looks like more work with that too! is that going to fit under the hood without a hood scoop?
Betting on:
A. Hood mods
B. Body lift
C. All of the above.
That intake looks pretty damn tall. I realize the GXX engines are tall for 4-bangers, but that thing has got to have em beat by 4+ inches.
Well when I get the transmission for it, I can sit it all in there and see how much of the floor I have to cut out. And actually the engine wont need much work at all! Just gotta clean the outside a little, throw a cam and valve springs in, and it will be good for 1000+hp
And yea its pretty tall haha. This is an LSX engine if you don't already know. Im gonna build my own dry sump oil system so I can damn near delete the oil pan
More pics to come. Couldn't upload them today due to hospital visit, will upload tomaro!
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Heres some more pictures of just what ive been doing. Trying to keep it up to date LOL
The old LS engine... I'll get you some pictures of what I see over at Rex Hutchison.
Ok cool! I plan on putting the Ram 50 back on the map! I wanna set records in this truck :devil2:
Grab the sand bags to keep the tires from spinning off the rims. 1000hp, isn't that more then the space shuttle? :lmao:
Luv to sit in the passenger seat on a full throttle take off with that power. This will be a fun thread to watch.
Yep! Also what I wanna do is let people ride in the truck on passes. Every time I go to a drag race, ive wanted to ride in the car or truck and usually the owner wont let you. And yea I would love to see 1000hp. But Im not gonna try to reach 4 digit power this go around. More like 750hp. 750hp will get the truck in the 8s in the 1/4.
You'll need over 1000hp to clip into the 8's. Full tube cars that run into the 8 push between 900-1200RWHP and weigh around 2400 lbs, Are trucks are around the same weight. Friend runs a Unlimited 10.5" Tire Street legal car that push's just over 1800hp (race trim) and had dipped into the 7's in Vegas the last 2 years. When he was running 1100RWHP he was in the Mid to high 8's.But you can always add 250 shot of NAWZ to it.
By buddy's fox weighs 3250lbs with 700hp. He runs mid 8s all day long in the 1320ft...and that was with a junkyard engine.
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Happy with how the color test turned out. Gonna go ahead and shoot the rest of it and then try to find a LS1 intake(shout at me if you have any leads)
As for the carburetor, try looking around the base for model number or some type of metal tab plate that contains numbers maybe. Carbs usually have some type of identification stamped on their casting.
As for those other things, I would say IMO that they look like something to do with smog, pump maybe or vapor tank. Again, look for model numbers and identification numbers, everything has a number and it will help speed up the process. That one almost looks like a brake canister for a semi truck, lol.
Those parts are like a geological find that someone digging up historic objects would find 500 years from now. Probably say the same thing too, WTF is this?? :lmao:
Going with EFI or Carb intake ?
I don't have a use for the carb LOL. Droppin a LSX in here, no more fuel leak controlled by vacuum LMAOQuote:
Originally Posted by BradMph
LS1 car intake. Needs to look like this vvvQuote:
Originally Posted by Fordubishi
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Got the LS1 intake in today! She looks soo nice on the engine
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Purdy!!
Looking good. Can't wait to see it start to come together
Where's the intake to your intake? juskidn...looks like a monster in the making.
My machine shop has a couple of LS engines that will be going onto the build room soon. I'll try to get inside pointers on what they do while there in there. Might be just some easy tricks to get you more HP. It all comes down to timing when I stop by. If I get then in the right place I can twist them for information.
Oh yea? Im keeping this engine stock, except for a cam and valve springs. Then im gonna put a big single turbo on it and run around 20psi on the stock bottom, and see how low in the 8s she will go LOL
Like your way of thinking! and by the way that pan (sump) is a lot shorter then on the chevy 4.3.
I'm curious, what are the measurements from the back of the block to the center of motor mounts?
Hmm...ill have to get back with you on that! But if it helps, this is a '07 4th gen engine
good progress on ur build.. how's it coming along?
Dead stop till I gather all the parts. Finding a transmission is the major part right now. And now that I have a full time job from 6pm to 6 am, I don't have time to do much at all lol
no commercial breaks, back to that build mista, lol
I use to like 12 hour shifts, though we got an extra weekend day on mon. or fri.
Use to deliver bulk Anhydrous for about a year , among other nasty chemicals to farmers.
The round-up weed killer was so concentrated you needed a permit to handle it and was dark brown instead of this clear crap stores sell.
Haha, nice. Im about to turn out storage room at our house BACK into a garage. That way I can build the trans in a clean environment and working on concrete beats the hell outa grass
Well the machine shop just got in 2 LS engines. So I'll try to see what they use and how they do things to make big power. These are your standard NASCAR engines. I know they put a carb and distributer on it. It's on the front cover.
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Nice. It's hard to make ALOT of power on a naturally aspirated engine! I wont really have to do much at all to make BIG power on these LSX blocks. Valve springs, injectors and a cam is all you need for the engine. Then feed it some boost! But I'm going a few steps further. I'm adding a LS1-3 intake and some Holley fuel rails, and some LS9 head gaskets(used)! Then ill torque them down with an impact haha
Here are some of the main NASCAR engine characteristics that separate them from regular engines:
•The displacement is large -- 358 cubic inches (5.87 liters). Not many cars have engines this big, but the ones that do usually generate well over 300 horsepower.
•The NASCAR engines have extremely radical cam profiles, which open the intake valves much earlier and keep them open longer than street cars. This allows more air to be packed into the cylinders, especially at high speeds.
•The intake and exhaust are tuned and tested to provide a boost at certain engine speeds. They are also designed to have very low restriction, and there are no mufflers or catalytic converters to slow the exhaust down either.
•They have carburetors that can let in huge volumes of air and fuel -- no fuel injectors on these engines.
•They have high intensity programmable ignition systems so the spark timing can be customized to provide the most possible power.
•All of the subsystems like coolant pumps, oil pumps, steering pumps and alternators are designed to run at sustained high speeds and temperatures.
When these engines are assembled, they are built to very exacting tolerances (parts are machined more accurately), so that everything fits perfectly. Cylinders are bored to more exacting tolerances than street cars. The crankshafts and other rotating parts are balanced. Making sure that the parts are as close to their exact dimensions as possible helps the engine achieve its maximum potential power and also helps reduce wear. If parts are too big or small, power can be lost due to extra friction or pressure leakage through bigger than necessary gaps.
After the engine is assembled, it runs on the dynamometer (measures engine power output) for 30 minutes to break it in. The engine is then inspected. The filters are checked for excess metal shavings to make sure no abnormal wear is taking place.
If it passes this test, then it goes on the dynamometer for another two hours. During this test, the ignition timing is dialed in to maximize power and the engine is cycled through various speed and power ranges.
After this test, the engine is inspected thoroughly. The valve train is pulled and the camshaft and lifters are inspected. The insides of the cylinders are examined with borescopes (inspects the interior using mirrors). The cylinders are pressurized and the rate of leak down is measured to see how well the pistons and seals hold the pressure. All of the lines and hoses are checked.
Only after all of these tests and inspections are finished is the engine ready to go to the races. Insuring the reliability of the engine is critical -- almost any engine failure during a race eliminates any chances of winning
Well I havnt been on here in awile! Anyways, this is what ive been doing today! Picked up 3 TH400s!
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lol, trany case at the bottom looks like a habit-trail for an ant farm. Glad to see your progressing again.
Yes it does haha. 2 of them were free and 1 was $50! I shit myself when I found them! Also when I was trying to unbolt the center support on the first trans(the one above) The bolt head stripped then I broke off an extractor bit in it...my luck
lol, You know it doesn't feel so bad when you can read about what other people are going thru with their trucks. Though, I do feel a little bit of pain for them because tomorrow it could happen to us just as fast. Time to start torching those old bolts or just soak the truck in anti-sieze overnight.;)
You didn't need to worry about that rust. It comes off the first time you stick it in gear, LOL
I know haha. The only transmission that I had hope in, isn't any unless I can get that center support out! Today I started the cleaning of the piston, rod and rings so that they will be nice and sludge free! PURPLE POWER FTMFW!
I know haha. The only transmission that I had hope in, isn't any unless I can get that center support out! Today I started the cleaning of the piston, rod and rings so that they will be nice and sludge free! PURPLE POWER FTMFW!
Hey guys whats up. Sorry I haven't updated my thread in awile. The truck is at a stand still uintil I can find a truck harness. If anybody knows where to find the ECU harness out of a chevy truck for the vortec engines (v8 only) let me know!