SubGothius
08-19-2023, 06:36 PM
Got myself a jet valve eliminator kit and was gonna install it this afternoon, until I came across the following instructions in the Haynes manual for removing the rocker arm assembly:
Note 1: The camshaft bearing caps are removed together with the rocker arm assembly. To prevent the transmission end of the camshaft from popping up (from timing-chain tension) after the assembly is removed, have an assistant hold the transmission end of the camshaft down, then reinstall the main camshaft bearing cap on that end to hold it in place until reassembly.
[...]
Removal
[...]
Step 3: Have an assistant hold down the transmission end of the camshaft, then loosen the camshaft bearing cap bolts 1/4 turn at a time until the spring pressure is relieved.
Since I'll be doing this job solo, does anyone have a trick to avoid the need for an assistant to hold down the back end of the camshaft? Or is this even anything to worry about or bother with?
Also, got any other tips'n'tricks to recommend for removing the rocker arm assembly on a G54B? Found this thread with some interesting info:
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/3834-Rocker-Shaft-Removal
Background:
I decided to install the eliminators because I suspect my jet valve on the #3 cylinder may be damaged and causing detonation or otherwise hot-running on that cylinder.
My last couple spark plug changes were prompted by the engine suddenly starting to misfire on cold startups this past February, gradually resolving as it warmed up.
I hadn't tinkered with anything to account for the sudden cold-misfiring, and there hadn't been any major swings in local weather temps when it started, so I pulled the plugs and found #3 had a cracked insulator around the center electrode. Its threads were also kinda tight when I removed the plug, found a partial turn of galled thread at the very tip. I'd installed that set of NGK BPR6EY plugs without anti-seize as NGK recommends, so thought that omission might explain the thread issues.
Replaced those with an old but decent set of Champion RN9YC I had lying around as backup and used an anti-seize crayon on the threads this time. That eliminated the misfire, ran fine for the past 6 months or so until earlier this month, when the cold-misfiring started again. Pulled those plugs and found #3 once again had a cracked insulator around the center electrode, albeit not as bad a crack this time, hadda examine with a magnifying loupe to spot it. No galled threads this time, but the last partial turn or so at the tip had some weird decay, perhaps due to combustion exposure with that galled bit that came out with the prior plug.
So I suspect #3 cylinder may be running hot or detonating to cause that repeated plug damage, and a bad jet valve is the only likely cause I can think of.
BTW, I'm running a 32/36 Weber conversion and had disabled the jet valves by removing their adjuster screws from the rocker arms, leaving the valves themselves in place.
Note 1: The camshaft bearing caps are removed together with the rocker arm assembly. To prevent the transmission end of the camshaft from popping up (from timing-chain tension) after the assembly is removed, have an assistant hold the transmission end of the camshaft down, then reinstall the main camshaft bearing cap on that end to hold it in place until reassembly.
[...]
Removal
[...]
Step 3: Have an assistant hold down the transmission end of the camshaft, then loosen the camshaft bearing cap bolts 1/4 turn at a time until the spring pressure is relieved.
Since I'll be doing this job solo, does anyone have a trick to avoid the need for an assistant to hold down the back end of the camshaft? Or is this even anything to worry about or bother with?
Also, got any other tips'n'tricks to recommend for removing the rocker arm assembly on a G54B? Found this thread with some interesting info:
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/3834-Rocker-Shaft-Removal
Background:
I decided to install the eliminators because I suspect my jet valve on the #3 cylinder may be damaged and causing detonation or otherwise hot-running on that cylinder.
My last couple spark plug changes were prompted by the engine suddenly starting to misfire on cold startups this past February, gradually resolving as it warmed up.
I hadn't tinkered with anything to account for the sudden cold-misfiring, and there hadn't been any major swings in local weather temps when it started, so I pulled the plugs and found #3 had a cracked insulator around the center electrode. Its threads were also kinda tight when I removed the plug, found a partial turn of galled thread at the very tip. I'd installed that set of NGK BPR6EY plugs without anti-seize as NGK recommends, so thought that omission might explain the thread issues.
Replaced those with an old but decent set of Champion RN9YC I had lying around as backup and used an anti-seize crayon on the threads this time. That eliminated the misfire, ran fine for the past 6 months or so until earlier this month, when the cold-misfiring started again. Pulled those plugs and found #3 once again had a cracked insulator around the center electrode, albeit not as bad a crack this time, hadda examine with a magnifying loupe to spot it. No galled threads this time, but the last partial turn or so at the tip had some weird decay, perhaps due to combustion exposure with that galled bit that came out with the prior plug.
So I suspect #3 cylinder may be running hot or detonating to cause that repeated plug damage, and a bad jet valve is the only likely cause I can think of.
BTW, I'm running a 32/36 Weber conversion and had disabled the jet valves by removing their adjuster screws from the rocker arms, leaving the valves themselves in place.