Weber 38 38 jets for 2.0

[TintedRam50]

I'm back at it. Starting to fix up truck after sitting. Still has the hesitation from idle. Hiccup I guess. Anybody got a good setup with jets for the carb and motor?

Never had this problem years ago with the Holley 5200. Bout ready to go back to it or Weber 32 36. Already took off edis setup and might go back to stock headers for daily driving again.

Thanks, glad to be around again.

[TintedRam50]

Forgot to add that my only other conclusion other than tune is to much carb for the 2.0? Played with jet kit but not emulsion tubes.

[pennyman1]

38 DGES is too much for a stock 2.0. A 32/36 dges will bolt right on to the adaptor you have and it will be easier to tune to your setup, with or without a header.

[SubGothius]

38 DGES is too much for a stock 2.0. A 32/36 dges will bolt right on to the adaptor you have and it will be easier to tune to your setup, with or without a header.

Correction: 32/36 DGEV or DFEV. The "S" in DGES means synchronous, referring to the dual-38mm barrels that open simultaneously, whereas the 32/36mm barrels are progressive (36mm secondary butterfly opens after the 32mm primary).

The DF-series vs. DG-series are mirror-image layouts, but either one will fit the usual manifold adapters. IMO the DFEV is preferable (and required for an automatic trans kickdown link), as it allows positioning the fuel bowl in front with more-or-less stock throttle cable routing.

You might contact Redline Weber, Pierce Manifolds, and/or Carbs Unlimited to ask if they can recommend/supply suitable jetting for your engine and elevation.

[pennyman1]

you got me - I meant dgev / dfav. Good catch SubGothius!

[TintedRam50]

Thanks for the replys. Other than the stumble when cracking throttle it runs great but I always assumed it was too big and not mixing the air and fuel good. Having the added adaptor also increased volume.

Know of any good sites to get a affordable Holley 5200 or Weber 32 36?

Trying to avoid Chinese clones but must admit I used them on my zero turn with zero problems.

[TintedRam50]

Thanks for the replys. Other than the stumble when cracking throttle it runs great but I always assumed it was too big and not mixing the air and fuel good. Having the added adaptor also increased volume.

Know of any good sites to get a affordable Holley 5200 or Weber 32 36?

Trying to avoid Chinese clones but must admit I used them on my zero turn with zero problems.

To add, rejetted years ago from redline jet kit but didn't have emulsion tubes to play with.

[camoit]

There’s a manual in the manual section on the Webber carb. It might help you fix the problem

[TintedRam50]

Good to know. I need to check out the manual section. Actually have 3 or something Weber books I bought years ago and still here I am lol. I just hate to change carbs again.
Thanks for everyone's input

[SubGothius]

Know of any good sites to get a affordable Holley 5200 or Weber 32 36?

AFAIK the only reliable vendors in the US are Redline Weber, Pierce Manifolds, and Carbs Unlimited. Seems like Redline may be the official importer, and the others may just source theirs from Redline for resale.

Aside from those, you might score a deal on eBay if you're patient and maybe save a search for email alerts, but beware the electric choke cover may not distinguish a genuine Weber from a clone. It's possible to put a genuine Weber (off-white) choke element on a clone to make it look legit at a glance, or put a clone (black) element on a genuine Weber to convert it from a water choke to electric. Genuine Webers have a dull/rough finish with the Weber name/logo and "Made in Spain" cast directly into the carb body, whereas clones have a shiny/smooth finish and only have Weber markings (if any) on a tag, decal, or ink stamp.

[TintedRam50]

Found this online, jets for 2.0. I may try this since I've got some jets but sure right now of my emulsion size tubes are. Check this link out. https://fastroadcars.co.uk/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_73&product_id=589

[TintedRam50]

Update. Current jets, 55 idle, 160 mains made it pull hard no stumble but was over rich. Reset float and removed power valve for maybe a more consistent mixture at wot. Yet to try out again. Reinstalling edis ignition currently trying to improve truck overall.

[geezer101]

Have you done any work to the head and intake manifold? The engine could do with a tidy up on the intake ports and port matching, rework of the valve bowls to make them similar in volume and gas flow, radius and blend sharp edges in the combustion chambers - and a set of wrapped headers. These engines respond to well to a more aggressive ignition tune too. How do you manage ignition advance with EDIS?
I haven't been keeping up with your posts so if you do have a write up on your IGN set up, it would be cool to check it out :studyingbrown:

[TintedRam50]

No work on head just maintenance before seals before and needed again other than jet valve elimination kit bolts. Owner before me replaced head with something else. Mine has no mechanical fuel pump hole. Maybe you know what it's from?
Planned on hollowing out the dualholes on top of intake, carb base surface but I can't remember what cooling jackets could be hiding? Can't remember, I need to find some pics.
Edis is simply gets rid of distributor, all electronic controlled basically. Gives you ability to change all timing without springs, weights, and for my case I believe too much total since initial timing is advanced well for Weber idle and transition.

[TintedRam50]

Question. Can I open up the carb intake (2 holes) into one to match the Weber adaptor plates (direct smooth open plenum)? That material could possibly be messing with mixture from carb I believe.

[geezer101]

Question. Can I open up the carb intake (2 holes) into one to match the Weber adaptor plates (direct smooth open plenum)? That material could possibly be messing with mixture from carb I believe.

Yes, you can open up the plenum ports - you can even remove the bridge between the ports and turn it into an oval port (match it to the inner contour of the adapter plate). You will want to radius the underside of the ledge once that metal has been taken out to aid the A/F charge direct it's way to the intake runners. Disable the EGR garbage as well. There is a coolant gallery that goes under the base of the manifold plenum chamber. These are known for rotting out and getting pin hole leaks in them. Not uncommon. There's a cover plate on the underside that can be carefully ground out and have a new piece of aluminium plate welded back in if it goes bad. I heavily reworked an intake way back to adapt a 34 DATA carb.

As for your cylinder head - no fuel pump recess means it has come from an EFI'd FWD car (G62B/G63B)

[geezer101]

A blast from the past ladies an' gentermens - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2566-Intake-manifold-porting-question


(http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2566-Intake-manifold-porting-question)Then - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/5082-I-shook-hands-with-the-devil

[geezer101]

There is a thread somewhere where I completely butchered the EGR gallery off the intake manifold and deleted it but I can't find it in the catacombs...

[TintedRam50]

The intake is next. Reinstalling edis/megajolt right now.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27884&stc=1 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27885&stc=1 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27886&stc=1 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27887&stc=1 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=27888&stc=1