i have a 1994 mighty max and keep blowing through starters

[DPUNCHED]

i go through starters about once a month any help would be appreciated I've found 4g64 starters online for forklifts brand new could that help me instead of orielys remands :bang::bang::bang::bang: ive gotten to the point 20 min i can have a starter in and out ive bump started the engine countless times the most recent starter i got growls 3/4 of the time i turn the key and craks slow lucky me it fires up even so

[robertson5347]

I have a 1988 4 wheel that goes through starter solenoids every 6 months. Can't figure why. Replaced the whole starter with no improvement

[xboxrox]

My rookie GM input ~ seems the starter I once worked on needed shims to position it correctly ~ the shims were pretty thin like feeler gauges ~ maybe the FSM book has steps to do an install ? Reman won't be as good as OEM new "you get what you pay for as a rule not always tho" penniman or another member here said a better starter is the Starion part, I dunno ~ maybe the bottom line is be extra careful performing the install it might be more of a precision job than it seems ~ geared teeth will be meshing to get you started & I suppose some alignment is needed for that to happen correctly ?
ROOKIE OUT :shrug:

[SubGothius]

I may have a similar issue with the O'Reilly's reman starter I'd installed on my '87, might be related to cold temps, as it only started happening around December and seems less troublesome during daytime, hot/warm starts, and warmer evenings here. The starter motor always spins freely every time, but it doesn't always crank the engine until after a couple/few/several... or dozen tries, so I think the pinion gear isn't properly engaging the flywheel ring gear.

I suspect the pinion gear clutch (if we have one?) may be the culprit, as the starter would not spin at all if the solenoid plunger doesn't move, and if the plunger moves, it should move the drive fork-lever to slide the pinion gear along the armature shaft into contact with the flywheel ring gear. Presuming the linkages are sound from the plunger to the fork-lever, and from the fork-lever to the pinion gear, the pinion clutch seems all that's left to be going wrong here, no?

If so, I'd guess the reman facility may have used the wrong grease inside the pinion clutch, so the rollers/balls/pawls are either slipping when engaged or getting stuck in their unengaged position. Aside from just using O'Reilly's lifetime warranty claim to swap starters every time this happens, perhaps we could source a top-quality pinion gear/clutch assembly and retrofit that to whatever starter we've got? :think:

[geezer101]

A slow or bad crank over might be something else. What are your ground leads like? Bad grounds cause all kinds of weird and annoying issues. Maybe disconnect them in the engine bay and give them a degrease and a big clean with a wire brush. Also inspect the ground leads for signs of oxidisation/corrosion and damage.

[xboxrox]

LOAD TEST YOUR BATTERY ~ it could have a weak cell but still crank albeit weaker than strong starting ~ 6 months ago my battery failed a load test but it still started the engine ~ recently I noticed the cranking to start was sometimes weaker than normal so I had a new battery installed ~ 100% SURE STARTS NOW ~ :thumbup:

EDIT: My old battery was about 2 1/2 years old ~ Firestone store gave me credit for early replacing the (3 or 5? year warranty batt) Interstate battery $123.00 out the door they wrench they recycle they tax !

EDIT: You would think warm weather Hawaii would be easy on batteries BUT NOT SO any hot or cold weakens batteries ~ they sell the batteries designed for hot climate over here ~ my recent posts what did you do to your truck today has the battery # details

[DPUNCHED]

i go through starters about once a month any help would be appreciated I've found 4g64 starters online for forklifts brand new could that help me instead of orielys remands :bang::bang::bang::bang: ive gotten to the point 20 min i can have a starter in and out ive bump started the engine countless times the most recent starter i got growls 3/4 of the time i turn the key and craks slow lucky me it fires up even so

in response since. its been a couple of days. now my grounds are sanded and new cables, i am missing the one to the exhaust mani to the firewall cant find another braided one as it had, and rubber and exhaust temps don't play well.
the main one is brand new I believe its the starter because it happens hot or cold with this starter but previous starters start fine but just stop all together out of no were the longest one that I've had work in the truck was a junkyard starter, funnily enough, lasted me like 3 months when all the other last about a month to the guy that recommended taking a little more time when tightening it down or using shims I have tried holding it up or down or as straight as possible when doing so and nothing so I'm at a loss about that without trying shims but when they fail I don't see any unusual wear on the teeth I did from the junkyard starter but it was that way then I put it in.
to the guy saying to load test the battery it's 3 months old from Walmart yes I'm using a Walmart battery but its an 800 cca battery 850 above 32 so even if it's not fully capable of that I figure its probably fine


if anyone knows where to get a braided heat resistant ground let me know so I can order on

[DPUNCHED]

i have a local starter rebuilder im going to go and see if they can do anything for me

[xboxrox]

i have a local starter rebuilder im going to go and see if they can do anything for me
When all else fails $pend $timulou$ money on a new factory Mitsubishi starter original to your truck ~ if me, I'd make darn sure I understood how the warranty works ~ some warranties require qualified mechanics or dealer install
GOOD LUCK

[SubGothius]

Generic braided ground straps are in stock at any chain auto parts store, check the electrical or Help!/Dorman odds'n'ends sections. It'll probably be longer than you need -- I wound up attaching mine to the intake manifold side to use up some of that excess length (easier to loosen the nut there, too) -- but if you want one closer to the right length, there's plenty to choose from on eBay.

[DPUNCHED]

Generic braided ground straps are in stock at any chain auto parts store, check the electrical or Help!/Dorman odds'n'ends sections. It'll probably be longer than you need -- I wound up attaching mine to the intake manifold side to use up some of that excess length (easier to loosen the nut there, too) -- but if you want one closer to the right length, there's plenty to choose from on eBay.

i picked up a start for an auto trans it works great no growling or grinding but time will tell on how long it lasts but it has the same amount of teeth and bolts up the same way

[xboxrox]

i picked up a start for an auto trans it works great no growling or grinding but time will tell on how long it lasts but it has the same amount of teeth and bolts up the same way

:scratchheadblue: your truck is automatic transmission or manual..? Are you saying either starter (an auto or manual tranny type) fits & cranks OK..? They look different to me, hmm... Well hope you got the problem fixed & Hope you have a Fun Special Birthday too..!