No start

[xboxrox]

My all original 86 won't start... After my mechanic friend changed the carb accelerator pump it ran really rough at startup but ran good warmed up... Changed to another carburetor still same rough running cold, good run warm...

So the truck was running good (rough at cold startup though) but then began to have hard hot start problem. Now it won't start at all...

History of it running good over two years:
New spark plugs
New coil
New spark plug wires
New fuel filter
New fuel pump (helped solve low power)
New carburetor
New ignition switch (solved slow crank problem)

So now it won't start

New ignition control module (no help)

The shop working on the truck said it produced one good spark off the coil high tention wire then nothing...

IDEAS:
Test coil
Test coil HT wire
Hunt for a junkyard ECM (RWD & 4X4 same?)

Help if you can -- new battery & cranks strong

THANKS :(

EDIT: Installed new coil to distributor high tension wire; no help, still no start but a little better spark out the end of the new coil wire...

[85Ram50]

What else did he do when he replaced the pump? Did he adjust anything?

[xboxrox]

Yes he did --
Cleaned dist cap & rotor
Adjusted timing (without timing light I BET) we have a light
Adjusted carb SAS1 idle speed

Coil test next -- YouTube video showed an easy way using jumper wire with small alligator clips

Thanks for the ??? 85Ram. Is your truck running??

[85Ram50]

I didn't notice it wasn't running when he started. No mine is not running. I've been letting my body relax and doing other stuff since Monday. The last thing I did was unwrap half of the harness section that has the black/white wire in it going over to the ecu thing. The solenoid for my other starter came I might rebuild it tomorrow.

[xboxrox]

LATEST: today installed new coil no help & starting fluid no help... My mechanic friend Vernon said he saw too much gas down the carb air intake -- says the engine is flooding... He will remove & work on the Mikuni carb float needle seat jets etc...
Removed one plug it was black black black but it still fired a spark... I will install new plugs as well...

At least I got the Made-in-China coil off the truck the NAPA ECHKLIN (sp?) coil is Made-in-USA

I might even put new NAPA Echklin cap & rotor (the expensive brown color parts) already have a new NAPA set of plug wires left over from the shop working on the truck = all new secondary ignition = IF IF IF the Mikuni gets correctly fixed then this truck should run really well
Fingers X'd

[geezer101]

Fuel bowl vent issue? Seen a number of members say they've had flooding issues and it was connected to a bad fuel bowl vent. Might want to check it out :shrug:

[geezer101]

OOC why aren't you guys upgrading to solid state coils? They're compact, deliver better spark - and they're cheap. Found this on the E of Bays -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Herko-Ignition-Coil-B226-For-Dodge-Mitsubishi-Ram-50-Mighty-Max-1987-1989/382453510069?epid=253982047&hash=item590c016fb5:g:~zIAAOSwTU9baDlm

This one comes with the coil mounting bracket, connectors and the ballast resistor as a single unit :thumbup:

[xboxrox]

I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer geezer 'n kinda lazy, think: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it or mod it" mostly I'm too lazy to change even a coil from stock to upgrade...

FUEL BOWL VENT:
Your carb advice will be applied to our work on Mr. Mikuni Mitsubishi -- sumpin sure ain't right...

I am so anxious for any automaker to build & sell a tiny (small) truck or trucklet that is half the price or less than a Honda Ridgeline $43,000.00 base model

[geezer101]

The only example of a light/mini truck that was made sort of recently was the Proton Jumbuck/Arena (that's mid to late 2000's) BUT you may/may not want one. Positive - Mitsubishi drivetrain and body panels = easy to get parts. Negative - it is a DEATH TRAP. The cab was based on Mitsubishi Mirage/Lancer panels but everything from the rear window is Proton designed. And there are other pitfalls in owning one - primarily the social stigma and public ridicule...

https://www.betootaadvocate.com/uncategorized/local-bloke-forced-to-defend-his-proton-jumbuck/ (apparently this is ACTUAL news in far north QLD :lmao:)

[geezer101]

Oooh :shock: just spotted this too - look up Fiat Strada/Ram 700. Release dates have been held back due to the COVID nonsense and contagious rioting...

https://www.motoring.com.au/ram-700-ute-new-images-123720/ OK now I'm done with hijacking your thread George :lmao:

[xboxrox]

not thread jack - incomplete thread title

USA still imposes a 25% tariff on imported compact trucks - Chicken Tax

Honda Ridgeline is manf in Alabama, US so it avoids the tariff BUT it is still only a $18,000 value for the $43,000 price -- if it was imported add 25% more + extra shipping costs -- Honda knows it won't sell for half a million dollars a copy...

IMHO usa compact trucks are monster sized & not well engineered & overpriced...

At my age (72 in July) living on a small island, I just want a grocery getter, Dr. appointment 12 miles on the H3 Fwy & toy hauler to the beach... Our Kailua roads are all 25MPH

Parking spots here (Hawaii) are smaller than mainland, a full size crew cab long bed truck looks stupid in a parking lot...

I like cheap price, simple stripped base models, smallest engine, longest warranty, everything works and it fits me for driving (headroom legroom etc)

Hyundai or KIA anybody PLEASE start manufacturing a truck type ride in America preferably a 2 door cab... I will be buying !!!

Honda Ridgeline is too BIG 4 my taste & way overpriced and comes in two rotten colors...

Love the Proton Jumbuck & it even has a Mitsubishi engine, it's perfect !! But sadly, not available in the US

Parking my Rant 'n jealous of Australia's cool trucks...

[MrPaco]

VW has been making these in Brasil since the 90's (maybe earlier?) for the latin american market, looks like they still are. A fast, fun, and dangerous, little car truck.
https://www.vw.com.br/pt/carros/Saveiro.html

[geezer101]

...so it's a modernised Rabbit pick up? I don't know if it would be a deathtrap as it's made by VW (their reputation is already severely stained by the former CEO's belligerence so they shouldn't be thaaaat stupid) It'll have airbags and ABS, anti collision sensors and a pretty rigid cab. It does look a bit like a Golf wagon with the ass cut off it, but it's not fugly lol.

[xboxrox]

MrPaco, wow, good catch finding that cool VW truck; I want the long bed regular cab version with snap on silver colored plastic wheel covers and body color white... If DELETE options are available I would select every one; don't need no stupid radio, CD player, in dash GPS, etc... My cell phone & a bluetooth small BOSE speaker is all I need...

Much as I would hate to; I would even pay $2,500.00 USD for a damn automatic transmission (for my wife to drive me around :^)

I bet geezer likes it too even tho VW deserves an ass whipping for polluting 'n cheating BUT it's still better than sumpthin Made-in-China... They really hurt the world...

;] Peace/Forgive

[MrPaco]

It's based on the Gol, the Brazilian-made econo version of the Rabbit.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_Gol

I like the look of the late 80's models. A friend had one of these, it had a small engine (1.3 or 1.6lL ?) but it was so light and fast that you had to drive around with ballast in the bed, otherwise it would fishtail like crazy.

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[geezer101]

The VW pick up is pretty sharp - I could live with that. I'm not gonna hate on stuff just because it's made in China as I let a product hold up to it's own merits. I'd buy a Great Wall pick up even if it was only to debug it and install Mitsubishi peripherals on it so it wouldn't drive like a slug and have throttle position problems (4G64 engine and transmission, but horrid ECU and fly-by-wire set up) My dad recently bought a new MG3 hatch (made by SAIC China) and for $17K AUD (about $12k USD) this thing is really hard to fault. Build quality is near perfect, it's comfortable, it's drives pretty good, it's basic inside without it being cheap or poverty spec (a simple climate control set up and touch screen that you don't need a degree in quantum physics to navigate) and it's not ugly. He got the auto 4 speed (fair enuff, he isn't a 'driver') which has some weird rpm shift settings that need to be tuned out but it's forgiveable.

[85Ram50]

They used to sell the VW pickup here in the 80's. Subaru had one with seats in the bed, The Brat, right behind the window. They had to discontinue them they got sued for no seat belts and people dying while "having fun" by being ejected. You can still see them around every now and then.

[xboxrox]

Dang, I'm living in a cacoon, my next truck might very well be a Made-in-China product the way this world is going... I think the lowest priced car sold in USA is the Mitsubishi Mirage; too bad it's not made in truck form... I don't like USA import truck cacoon BAN

Hmp :thumbdown:

[geezer101]

They used to sell the VW pickup here in the 80's. Subaru had one with seats in the bed, The Brat, right behind the window. They had to discontinue them they got sued for no seat belts and people dying while "having fun" by being ejected. You can still see them around every now and then.

We got Brats here but they were called "Brumby" (Oz term for a wild horse lol) They didn't come with recreational ejector seats though and it would've been easy to rectify with a pair of harnesses anchored to the roll bar. You guys get all of the cool toys :green: I actually want to get a pair of bucket seats and make a removable mount so I can live large at the last remaining drive in here in South Aust.

*addendum - lunatics here have been swapping WRX drivetrains into Brumbies - waaay too much fun :grin:

[SubGothius]

Subaru BRATs in the US had those jumpseats in the bed to qualify as a passenger car exempt from the Chicken Tax. I clearly remember they were equipped with seatbelts as stock, though many owners removed those to reduce clutter or as they fell apart or quit working due to exposure to the elements, cargo, etc.

The smallest trucks currently sold in the US market are classified as "midsize", yet they're about the same or larger in every dimension than '70s-'80s full-size domestic trucks like the Chevy/GMC "squarebody" models.

We have our absurd CAFE regulatory scheme -- its "footprint" fuel-economy formulas in particular -- to blame for the disappearance of truly compact pickups (and affordable station wagons) from the US market:
https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/10/how-cafe-killed-compact-trucks-and-station-wagons/

If we replaced CAFE with a simple tax scaled to fuel consumption regardless of vehicle type or size like the EU has, that would create a market incentive favoring smaller, more fuel-efficient vehicles again. May be a moot point by now, since everything's ultimately going electric...

[xboxrox]

The smallest trucks currently sold in the US market are classified as "midsize", yet they're about the same or larger in every dimension than '70s-'80s full-size domestic trucks like the Chevy/GMC "squarebody" models.

We have our absurd CAFE regulatory scheme -- its "footprint" fuel-economy formulas in particular -- to blame for the disappearance of truly compact pickups (and affordable station wagons) from the US market:
https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/10/how-cafe-killed-compact-trucks-and-station-wagons/

If we replaced CAFE with a simple tax scaled to fuel consumption regardless of vehicle type or size like the EU has, that would create a market incentive favoring smaller, more fuel-efficient vehicles again. May be a moot point by now, since everything's ultimately going electric...

Thanks for this CAFE info SubGothius :waiting: <---- I'm waiting for something truck like to replace my 86 Power Ram 50 -- an electric shopping basket?

[85Ram50]

Thanks for this CAFE info SubGothius :waiting: <---- I'm waiting for something truck like to replace my 86 Power Ram 50 -- an electric shopping basket?

I did a search and this looks simple https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ECFn2QTldHk

[xboxrox]

OK video, I also liked the 2nd electric conversion video that came up as well, the Asian guy... My apartment bldg has no electric charging stations; Target Kailua & Long's Drugs parking garage has two chargers but they're one mile away... I still prefer a gasoline engine over electric motor, more rumble in the rumble seat with gas... he he

[geezer101]

^that will drive the truck - and nothing else. No A/C, no power steering, no boosted brakes... and it'll suffer from what every EV suffers from. Slow recharge time and having to plan where you're going in short distances. I can recharge my car in 180 seconds at a gas station :P

[85Ram50]

that vid is almost a decade old and he sells kits that charge off a regular 110 cord. Apparently he has worked out how to power the rest of accessories. They did a small truck like the MM size in a couple vids. Lots of lead acid batteries. Would be cool if a guy could get some Lithium ion batteries.

[85Ram50]

I know how you like to play safe with the vehicle so I have to ask; How long do you crank it for? I ask because mine I had to hold it cranking for like 20-30 seconds a couple of times to get it to finally catch and run. It started then died as soon as I let go the key twice at least. Then it finally kicked over and held an idle and let me gas it without dying.
Seems like that would indicate a real problem but the compression and leak down test I did last summer say otherwise. It is definitely a timing electrics carb relationship thing on mine. I think you still have the Mikuni right? You might consider looking into that shop Kelly from Florida found that does rebuilt Mikuni's.
Having said that I just realized IDK why it wasn't running in the first place. How did it die?

[xboxrox]

For two years my truck ran good except a little rough idle until warmed, then we replaced a GAS leaking accelerator diaphram, then the dirty little secret of cracking off a chunk of the phenolic throttle body made the accelerator cover leak GAS even worse, then super glued the cracked off chunk but it still leaked GAS (at this point a new problem started = extreme rough idle at startup) then a junk yard Mikuni was installed which did not leak GAS + it gave the truck more power at wide open throttle & more power to the power brakes BUT (that new super rough idle when cold was still there) I am rather concerned about that rotten idle when cold since both carburetors did it (I suspect there is another dirty little secret that is not yet discovered) ??? All vacuum lines been checked OK, truck has a new fuel pump installed about a year ago... So, a few more parts & a small ultrasonic cleaner have yet to arrive before I try making a carburetor repair... I think I will rebuild the junk yard Mikuni and keep my cracked original Mikuni to look at when trying to reassemble the dang puzzle...

To answer your question (if it was addressed to me?) for the most part (averaging in the good times & bad) my truck would start on about the fifth revolution, give or take 1 or 2... About 5 to 10 seconds of cranking in normal life..?

Now, no matter how much or how long you crank, it's simply DEAD MEAT not a snap crackle or pop just NADA even with a battery charger on it...

Suposedly I read somewhere that carbureted engines start quicker than fuel injected engines OR I was just dreaming 'n not reading :P
Aloha --
George (I been toying with the idea of having my wife rebuild the Mikuni while I sit back and watch ~ might get a better result) :shrug:

[geezer101]

George (I been toying with the idea of having my wife rebuild the Mikuni while I sit back and watch ~ might get a better result) :shrug:

Make sure you have a post-nuptual agreement written up before putting her and yourself through that. It'll end badly :cussingblack: As far as Japanese carbies are concerned, the Mikuni isn't the basket case out of the bunch but it's still a swine to rebuild. I prefer the old all alloy Mikuni carb for rebuilding. Only solenoid on it was the fuel cut - one wire. Just thoroughly clean it before disassembly, have a clear work space with a decent light, break it down into the 3 basic components and don't randomly turn it upside down while stripping it. If it's got a spot of paint on it, don't meddle with it. If you have to pull apart the auto choke to reset the choke butterfly spring load cold, be prepared to get into a fight with it. Have your phone handy and take pictures as you go. This nightmare is about paying attention to what you're doing. A dead carby is the best place to learn about the Mikuni and if you can strip and assemble it a few times without losing anything, there's a good chance you can also resurrect it :thumbup:

[xboxrox]

:lmao:I have no need coz I have no more money to lose in a divorce :P Rock Auto & Amazon got all my money :(
ha ha ha ha

[geezer101]

LOL I wanted a new distributor from some online vendor and the shipping was $10,000 dollars :rolling: I was going to ask were they going to send it to my place still wrapped in the warehouse. Rock Auto and Amazon are probably keeping money in your pocket George, it's the mechanics that are fleecing you :shakehead:

[xboxrox]

George, it's the mechanics that are fleecing you :shakehead:

Could be geezer, could be, even if unitentional (sp?) My father always said: "If you want something done right, then do it yourself..."

(below) Pics of accumulated parts so far; all RockAuto ordered parts have arrived, waiting on the little ultrasonic cleaner from Amazon... Popped the hood today and removed the negative battery cable from the battery... Thought changing the O2 sensor would be a snap (it's not) much heat shield 'n crap to remove just to get at it (hurts my lazy bones just thinking about it..!) I might buy a 14mm X 1.25 TPI thread chaser from O'Reilly's for changing the spark plugs (one hole, the threads acted loose getting to torque/stripped? yikes?) I'll squirt carb cleaner & rag the heck around the plugs before removing em & try cleaning threads too... I use a good amount of antiseize compound on spark plug threads & I minimize the electrical silicone on spark plug cables (too much causes shorts & sparking to ground)... I read this doo doo somewhere, it was never included in my Navy career... Oh, and change spark plugs on a C0LD engine never on a HOT engine (think bi-metallic thread stripping problems with aluminum head V.S. Steel spark plug)

OK pics & Aloha--
George
P.S. I do appreciate the attention & inspiration you guys always offer, it helps a LOT :thumbup:
P.P.S. If I can just keep this little grocery getter going another two years; I read automakers are planning on selling little trucks/trucklets again (with new parts dependability and warranty too) I'll be looking/buying for sure
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[geezer101]

I have a couple of trains of thought on DIY'ing (mostly keeping cash in the pockets) "if some other monkey can do it, this monkey can do it too", "don't ever take at face value advice you're given if the guy giving it has an agenda other than genuinely helping you" (getting burnt by a crook is a great motivator :shakehead:) Your footnote on electrical grease is dead on. I SNAFU'D this week while resurrecting wifeys Elantra and put a dab of grease on the insulators on the spark plug leads as these b@stards have a habit of ripping the metal sleeves out by getting jammed onto the spark plugs (@ $65 AUD a set, this is an expensive phuc up) Now it misfires like it's possessed and has exposed a dead coil pack in the process. I feel your pain George...

A nice haul you have accumulated - this will keep you entertained for a while! Good luck :thumbup:

[xboxrox]

You just made my day geezer~san

The ultrasonic cleaner arrived today, box is kinda small ?

So, now I'm reading through Haynes & FSM trying to see if I should purchase a DMM innova 3340 & a vacuum tester kit

Maybe tonight we will wrench on the truck, so scary, maybe just remove the air cleaner

Coolant water leaked out when Vernon removed the carb, maybe I should get an oil change box it might fit under the truck & wifey can try catching spills?

Do I need to clamp any fuel hoses 4 leaks?

Thanks for your input my man -- I would follow a Hung Dog thread -- just to see some photos of "IT"

[xboxrox]

You just made my day geezer~san

The ultrasonic cleaner arrived today, box is kinda small ?

So, now I'm reading through Haynes & FSM trying to see if I should purchase a DMM innova 3340 & a vacuum tester kit

Maybe tonight we will wrench on the truck, so scary, maybe just remove the air cleaner

Coolant water leaked out when Vernon removed the carb, maybe I should get an oil change box it might fit under the truck & wifey can try catching spills?

Thanks for your input my man -- I would follow a Hung Dog thread -- just to see some photos of "IT"

[geezer101]

When removing a Mikuni carb, you have to drain off some coolant to avoid it back spilling into the manifold (don't worry, EVERYONE does it :lmao:) Either siphon some from the radiator or have an ice cream bucket etc under one of the manifold hoses (heater bypass hose to manifold base is the best place) and let it drain until you have no coolant pouring out. That way the coolant won't try to back log up through the coolant port under the carb :thumbup:

[xboxrox]

I know how you like to play safe with the vehicle so I have to ask; How long do you crank it for? I ask because mine I had to hold it cranking for like 20-30 seconds a couple of times to get it to finally catch and run. It started then died as soon as I let go the key twice at least. Then it finally kicked over and held an idle and let me gas it without dying.
Seems like that would indicate a real problem but the compression and leak down test I did last summer say otherwise. It is definitely a timing electrics carb relationship thing on mine. I think you still have the Mikuni right? You might consider looking into that shop Kelly from Florida found that does rebuilt Mikuni's.
Having said that I just realized IDK why it wasn't running in the first place. How did it die?

85Ram50, do you have any further contact info for Kelly from Florida..? I still need some Mikuni software parts a Bowl Vent Valve diaphragm and the little rubber piece on the shaft & who knows what else...

Thanks-A-Lot
George

[85Ram50]

So everyone gets to see the answer, Kelly came up with this shop that has Mikuni Solex carbs. https://guaranteedcarburetors.com/-4-Cylinder-2-Barrel-Carburetor-Dodge-Plymouth-TRUCKS_c_48.html
And this guy I found in a search. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Mikuni-Solex_c_28.html

[xboxrox]

SOME GOOD/GREAT NEWS:

Am making slow progress & doing everything I can to avoid actually working under the hood of my truck ;]

Here is a link: https://www.carbtech.us/ to a carburetor repair guy (ALLEN) in Tacoma, WA who phoned me back saying he will put a new diaphragm on my part (bowl vent valve) if he can't find a new part in his warehouse... YES YES YES The other carburetor guy links (above post) have not replied yet to my contacting them...

Here are photos of the little ultrasonic cleaner which tested ok today (heat & ultrasound sat) Amazon $95.00 includes tax & shipping... I put a bead of sealer around the tank top & case -- might help keep fluid out of the electronics inside... They also included a small clear plastic sticky to cover the control panel to prevent water getting inside... Size matters but price goes up accordingly; hopefully the Mikuni will fit in the small tank, even if it requires flipping onto all four sides in four separate cleaning cycles to clean it... Instructions say ok to remove basket to clean larger items & use regular tap water NOT distilled water (distilled can damage some items..!)

Cleaned Wifey's jewelry to perform the unit's test ~ sheeze happy :)

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Thank you all for viewing & helping me... I hate to say this but this truck belongs more in a museum than as a dependable daily driver on public roads... Mostly coz parts are so difficult to locate if not impossible to obtain and it died on us while getting groceries... Hopefully my attitude will improve IF & WHEN we get it running again... At least there are signs that automakers might be selling small trucks in USA again in a couple or few years... Maybe they will have one just as cute and solid driving as this little bugger..?

Bye --
George

[85Ram50]

They do make nitrile gloves to keep your hands clean if you want to work under there. :grin:
I hope he solves your problem for you.

[geezer101]

Excellent stuff. I am surprised they don't recommend distilled water - if they used Adelaide tap water, the stuff would boil from all of the crap they put in it. It turns the bottom of an electric kettle white within a few days of use :shakehead:

*fun fact - back in the day there were places that ships refused to take on 'potable' water when docked. Calcutta was one... and Adelaide made the honours list as well. A meal in every glass :lmao:

[xboxrox]

They do make nitrile gloves to keep your hands clean if you want to work under there. :grin:
I hope he solves your problem for you.

Funny, I bought a 100 pair box of black nitrile gloves when the virus became popular..! 85Ram50 you know me well, ha ha... I wear the gloves & mask to unpack & sanitize stuff when it arrives; especially stuff Made-in-China..!

25256

[xboxrox]

yuck geezer :thumbdown:

I stood engineroom watches on my 2nd ship USS SURFBIRD ADG 383 (it might still be alive in Alaska moving freight?) part of my engineroom watch was to babysit two Badger vapor stills freshwater makers... Made enuff water for cooking & cooling the diesel engine's heat exchangers -- no showers allowed only sink bird baths 99% of the time...

Watched AFRTS as Neil Armstrong stepped on the moon on that boat's wide screen 19" B&W TV while eating in the mess deck in Da Nang... Seems so long ago, my how time flys...

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Badger vapor compression distiller

[geezer101]

You look like Walter White :rolling: Holy crap, that would've been soooo cool to experience. Even if we know the footage was faked, it was one of the most pivotal events in history (YES THEY WENT TO THE MOON but the couldn't risk not being able to transmit or record any footage if the conditions affected the equipment, so don't start reaching for the tin foil hats)

*fun fact (and time for me to make you feel older George *sorry*) - my parents named me after Armstrong. Could've been worse, they could've named me Buzz and I would've been on the receiving end of Toy Story jokes to infinity and beyond...

[xboxrox]

You look like Walter White :rolling: Holy crap, that would've been soooo cool to experience. Even if we know the footage was faked, it was one of the most pivotal events in history (YES THEY WENT TO THE MOON but the couldn't risk not being able to transmit or record any footage if the conditions affected the equipment, so don't start reaching for the tin foil hats)

*fun fact (and time for me to make you feel older George *sorry*) - my parents named me after Armstrong. Could've been worse, they could've named me Buzz and I would've been on the receiving end of Toy Story jokes to infinity and beyond...

I'm going from this :smurfpapa: to this :smurfgrandpa: and this :oldtimer: and yeah, Walter White 'n me have similar hairlines...

[xboxrox]

Back to working on Mr. Mikuni, thinking about it anyway... I read five minutes worth of carburetor chapter 14 of FSM and got a surprise (see photo)
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[geezer101]

That is for a basic tear-down. Is there a section guiding you through resetting a choke butterfly that has gone out of calibration? This is a biatch of a job and probably the reason why the manual says don't mess with it...

[85Ram50]

See if you can find some joy here George https://www.nationalcarburetors.com/cat-chrydodgemitsutruck.html

[xboxrox]

Yep geezer I bet, the FSM does not address full rebuild
:P

JOY less than $350.00 shipped at that link geezer..! Wonder how well rebuilt they are ?

[85Ram50]

Yep geezer I bet, the FSM does not address full rebuild
:P

JOY less than $350.00 shipped at that link geezer..! Wonder how well rebuilt they are ?
Search for reviews online. they look good so far. With that $100 discount its cheaper than a new weber

[xboxrox]

I've invested a $ bunch $ already in tools & parts to try fixing it myself

I've read online that often, rebuilt carburetors are not always rebuilt very well, they sometimes have problems..? These same sites that sell rebuilt Mikuni carbs don't have the parts to fix one..? What gives..? They most often do not sell or have the more rare parts, like valve software & diaphrams... One shop did say they could make a diaphragm for a hard to find part...

So if they honestly don't have the parts to rebuild the Mikuni carb then how well did they rebuild them..?

Aloha & Happy 4th of July Ya'll
George

P.S. That $100 reduced price Mikuni might save my truck as a last resort BUT it becomes more like almost $400 with taxes shipping core blah blah -- you know the drill :^)

[xboxrox]

HERE IS THE LATEST GUYS:

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/8131-Mikuni-carburetor/page2

[xboxrox]

When removing a Mikuni carb, you have to drain off some coolant to avoid it back spilling into the manifold (don't worry, EVERYONE does it :lmao:) Either siphon some from the radiator or have an ice cream bucket etc under one of the manifold hoses (heater bypass hose to manifold base is the best place) and let it drain until you have no coolant pouring out. That way the coolant won't try to back log up through the coolant port under the carb :thumbup:

Got it, will drain coolant...

Question: One of the carburetor coolant water hoses attaches at two places (?) one on the wax pellet hose nipple and curves around to attach at another hose nipple... OK, my question IS can I use a straight piece of coolant hose to replace this "C" shaped bugger or IS it a molded OEM curved piece..? TIA <-- thanks in advance for any replies...

2nd (?) the 2nd hose on the 2nd hose nipple on the wax pellet (I think heads off into the cabin interior through the firewall, heater hose maybe?) my hose there has been cobbled together with plastic nipples & half a dozen hose clamps 'n three or more pieces of hose... It's not leaking (yet) but I think a forum member found a factory hose... Rock Auto has something that could be that hose; their picutre of it shows a bent up "S" shape of that sucker... Is that sucker another OEM available piece..?

TIA for any replies, funny replies appreciated :lmao:

[xboxrox]

See if you can find some joy here George https://www.nationalcarburetors.com/cat-chrydodgemitsutruck.html

They emailed me that they only rebuild carburetors & do not sell parts, thanks for the link 85Ram50...

I did find some joy here today https://www.carburetor-parts.com/ I just ordered the little filter screen that attaches to the needle seat assy...

[geezer101]

Use hose off the roll. The chances of you finding the OEM carb coolant recirculation lines are pretty slim (hose off the roll will be cheaper anyway...) I have used heater hoses from other cars to make it all work. I took the hoses I had into a parts store and compared them to what was jammed in their racks. One hose was definitely off a late 80's Nissan Pulsar - I had to cut it down but it fitted perfectly once I lopped off the superfluous end. I should've written down what the donor for the 'S' hose was. I probably did enter it on a post but it would take me centuries to find it :rolleyes:

[85Ram50]

:thumbup:

[xboxrox]

I been posting about fixing this NO START problem here:
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/8131-Mikuni-carburetor

[xboxrox]

IT STARTED & IT RUNS :cheers:

[xboxrox]

Just ordered Performance Tool W80578 -- maybe it will fix a high idle speed issue in my DIY rebuilt Mikui carb ?

[geezer101]

Here are the risks with setting idle. First - it has to be off the carb throttle stop. Wind the stop out and then wind it back in until it hits the throttle linkage. Start it and see what the idle is like. If it's too high and the timing is showing a lot of advance, there's your problem. If you try adjusting idle off the distributor, it'll end you (not pointing a finger directly at you, but a workshop that had no idea has meddled with your ride and most have zero idea about old school). This is a noob mistake that ends in a death spiral of not being able to get the engine to run right. Once you have determined that the advance is the culprit, back it off until it's in the ball park and check idle rpm and reset the throttle stop. I'd get a hand held dwell/tach meter as well. This is a more useful tuning tool than the timing light (timing light is fine for diagnostics as it'll tell you if something is screwy with idle timing or you have an ignition fault but you can achieve better results with a vac gauge and a dwell/tach meter)

Your timing light has good reviews so that is good to go. I've used a Lucas timing light and it was 'interactive' - I got continuous shocks from using it and then something happened and it stopped working after I threw it out the garage door :shrug:

I found this on ebay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/3022-EQUUS-7-FUNCTION-INDUCTIVE-ANALYZER-3122-DUAL-BEAM-INDUCTIV-TIMING-LIGHT/362361825727?epid=22020684175&hash=item545e72a9bf:g:fAgAAOSwX7JbFb-9

I have 2 of those timing lights and they are solid (they also have a built in spot light so you can see where you're about to aim it) The posting is misleading as it's pre-owned and the only thing new is the 9v battery supplied with the dwell tach meter :rolleyes:

[xboxrox]

geezer you da man :thumbup:

Gonna do my homework now teacher !?!

[xboxrox]

UPDATE ~ fiddled with the truck tonight, plugged off the dist vacuum hose, engine started ok but never fully warmed up ~ idle RPM 1025 initial ign timing 22° BTDC ~ adjusted distributor to 7° BTDC resulting in idle speed 915 to 925 RPM ~ idle adjusting screw fully backed out ~ kinda fun using our new timing light & laser tachometer ~ we have a new vacuum gauge, vacuum pump and butane torch to also use sometime to find a fix to lower the idle speed ~ the mfg tune up sticker on the hood calls for idle speed (manual trans over 300 miles) 750 +/- 100 RPM & 7°BTDC ignition timing ~ I must tweek the Mikuni carb at least check the TPS readings at idle & WOT it can be adjusted ~ I did not make any adjustments on the carb doing the rebuild MY BAD

Comments Anyone ? :))

[geezer101]

So you nailed it George? The initial advance was waaay too aggressive which was what I suspected. Guys are surprised at what the factory warm idle should be set at. Even I think that it should be at least 850 rpm as going lower will risk oil pressure in a worn engine...
Learning how to use diagnostic tools old school style is cool :thumbup:

[xboxrox]

So you nailed it George? The initial advance was waaay too aggressive which was what I suspected. Guys are surprised at what the factory warm idle should be set at. Even I think that it should be at least 850 rpm as going lower will risk oil pressure in a worn engine...
Learning how to use diagnostic tools old school style is cool :thumbup:
Hey THANKS geezer :))
Yes you was right about the timing advance 'b u t' Not so much "Nailed it" more like "Stapled it" the idle speed screw might fall off, I better check it yuk yuk yuk ~ Progress is slow but steadily improving ~ the poor engine died & it took 3 months & 6 surgeries & a complete heart transplant just to bring it back to life ~ the patient will need several more weeks or even months of tweeking therapy before it can walk or run again ~
Old school is OK but pushing buttons & ciphering codes is way better but not always more fun (;¿)

[xboxrox]

Distributor vacuum advance quit working ~ installed new vacuum advance actuator unit & truck is running mighty mighty fine like a mighty max should :thumbup: