Mikuni carburetor

[xboxrox]

BACKGROUND HERE: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/8121-WTB-CARBURETOR-GEN-1-Working-OR-Not

This thread is about me & (you my helpers) trying to fix my 1986 Dodge Power Ram50 (32-35DID TF207 7Z08 Mikuni carburetor, California emissions)... It got broke trying to replace a leaking accelerator pump diaphram (cracked off a "L" shaped sliver chunk of the phenolic resin mixing body machined surface under the accelerator pump cover... It now leaks gas big time..! Truck sits...

I discovered today that my carburetor is original & never rebuilt, photos coming soon... I also know that the 1985 carburetor from PicknPull is all same as mine (except it's from a RAM50 RWD not 4X4)... From now on, I'll refer to this carb from PicknPull as "1985" & my original as "1986"

Today, got photos of the HOLE in the phenolic resin mixing body on 1986 and unlike the melted edge looking HOLE on 1985 there is at least a HOLE on both carburetors... 1986 looks as though there is a brass shaft in the hole & 1985 looks like a ball bearing deeper in the hole... At least I now know that 1985 is not trash coz of it having the HOLE in the mixing body... When I first looked at 1985, I thought "oh crap, a nipple or something is busted off"

1985 has a slight sticking spot about half way through the throttle travel & 1986 throttle movement is smooth throughout full travel...

PLAN ??? as of today --

1) Spray carburetor cleaner 'n oil on 1985 and install it on the truck, cross fingers & hope to get toilet tissue as needed..?
2) Investigate possibility of machining 1986 mixing body and installing a spacer under the accelerator pump cover..?
3) Rebuilding 1986..?
4) Locate & purchase a non trashed phenolic resin mixing body..? good luck
5) Order an Ultrasonic Cleaner from Amazon (Jeff needs more CORONA$$BUCKS) and Aliexpress cancelled my order..!
6) Leave 1985 alone 'n keep it as an example how to reassemble 1986..?

CARBURETOR REBUILDING BASICS Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85nszLpbbXY
CARBURETOR REBUILDING BASICS Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dprLQcQrAqE

At least not having wheels is helping me & wifey to remain isolated & quarantined at home, damned COVID-19 :shakehead:

Your thoughts guys & gals..?
Much Aloha --
George

[geezer101]

I don't know if you've explained this in another thread/post but is there a reason why you're sticking to the Cali emissions carb? You can break these carbs down to 3 basic components without having to strip every screw, linkage and shaft out of them. The only thing you need to do to get there is disconnect a connector linkage or 2 from the throttle/butterfly body to separate them. Give the JY carb a good blasting with carb cleaner and then give the moving linkages and shafts a shot of WD40 and install it. I would use the leaking carb as the 'guinea pig' and attempt the basic breakdown. Once you have familiarised yourself with the fuel float and ball check valves etc reassemble it and break it down again so you know where linkages etc have to go. I wouldn't even attempt to fix the accelerator pump body as the plastic resin wasn't machined in the first place and there are too many things that can go wrong milling such a small area.

Tips - get a nice fresh screwdriver to take the carb apart and before trying to remove the top cover screws, give every screw a light tap with a hammer with the screwdriver as it will help free frozen threads (these carbs are notorious for getting the screw heads chewed out trying to disassemble them) Keep it upright while taking the top cover off and take note of the galleries in the proximity of the accelerator pump as this is where the check ball and brass float is located - disastrous if you lose them. And keep away from crowds/avoid spending non critical time out of your home. Stay safe George!

[xboxrox]

Give the JY carb a good blasting with carb cleaner and then give the moving linkages and shafts a shot of WD40 and install it. I would use the leaking carb as the 'guinea pig' and attempt the basic breakdown. I wouldn't even attempt to fix the accelerator pump body as the plastic resin wasn't machined in the first place and there are too many things that can go wrong milling such a small area. And keep away from crowds/avoid spending non critical time out of your home. Stay safe George!

geezer-man thanks so much for sharing these thoughts of wisdom... I was kinda thinking the same, just get the truck able to run for groceries asap... Here are photos of my 1986 carby & the J/Y 1985 carby (showing that weird hole ~ what is it for & what does it do..?)

California emissions WHY? Just because I suppose, the more changes, the more costs & I am happy having it original as possible... Thanks again for the well wishes, it goes for us all here no doubt...

246362463724638

[geezer101]

I honestly think it's not worth holding onto a carb just for factory originalities' sake. This is one of those moments where owning an old vehicle can grief you from lack of parts (especially brake parts for a Gen 1 - rear brake shoes and front rotors are not easy to get...) The federal emissions carb will bolt up and function in an identical fashion to the Cali choker. I have a feeling a fed will be easier to fully strip down as IIRC some of the screws holding the Cali together are tamper proof - meaning they have to either be drilled out or ground off to work on it. You may inadvertedly find some power too by changing the carb...

[xboxrox]

I honestly think it's not worth holding onto a carb just for factory originalities' sake. This is one of those moments where owning an old vehicle can grief you from lack of parts (especially brake parts for a Gen 1 - rear brake shoes and front rotors are not easy to get...) The federal emissions carb will bolt up and function in an identical fashion to the Cali choker. I have a feeling a fed will be easier to fully strip down as IIRC some of the screws holding the Cali together are tamper proof - meaning they have to either be drilled out or ground off to work on it. You may inadvertedly find some power too by changing the carb...

geezer, the knowledge you just shared will help me a lot... Federal rebuilt carburetors are still available at local auto parts stores like O'Reilly's... Gosh, hope I ever need to fix the brake shoes; my truck already has a NAPA brand new brake master cylinder... I want my truck to be the last vehicle I need to own or at least last until another small mini truck or cheap 4X4 vehicle is being sold in USA... Preferably something Made-in-Anywhere but USA with a ten year or 100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty and CVVT gas mileage... I don't want much, just the smallest & cheapest truck or Jeep type vehicle sold but not made in USA...

Wifey and me both came to the same decision today about how best to get the truck running again... Assuming the J/Y carburetor can bolt on and operate safely without gas leaks or engine acting up too badly -- we will hire Vernon again to do the install... He has been loyal to us even if he does break stuff sometimes...

Happy for getting your thoughts braddah :worship:

[xboxrox]

Texted Vernon 'n asked him if he would install & he said: "OK, cool..." :thumbup: O'Reilly's will have the mounting gasket tomorrow morning...

[geezer101]

Remember it might not be your intention to modify your truck, but Gen 2 stuff will swap over onto it without mods and will make maintenance and parts more accessible. If that's what it takes to keep 'er on the road. I got my fingers crossed (what's left of them anyway...) that the JY carb will be a win for you.

[xboxrox]

Gen2 fits? Including the electrical & sensor connectors? WOW :hammerdrill:
X'd fingers will Help

[geezer101]

^addendum - some resin body carbs have the EGR valve integrated into the carb and some don't. I've also seen carbs with 3 electric control solenoids installed into them + the fuel bowl vent/fuel cut solenoid (I rebuilt one and it was hell). They all share the same bolt pattern so you could in a pinch swap parts between carbs to build a hybrid of different control/EGR options. These bloody Mikunis have that many different combos of control mechanisms you could write a whole book on them :shakehead: Some people hated the early alloy body Mikuni Solex for some reason but I found them to be not only forgiving to work on but tweakable as far as performance was concerned.

[WarStryker13]

If that '85 carb has issues I can clean up my '87 carb and send it to you, it didn't seem to have any major issues that I could sense from the short amount of time I had it on my truck.

I wasn't going to say anything in case there was a difference between gen 1 and gen 2 that I didn't know about, but it seems like you've got quite a few options open to you now, and even if it's only good for parts it should be helpful to you.

[FMS88]

Don’t mean to burst bubbles, but a Gen2 carb is not a direct fit on a Gen1. Between the Gen1 and 2 there are differences in the intake manifold, ECM, engine and ECM harnesses, vacuum lines and the vacuum control box. These would have to be changed or modified to ensure the Gen2 carb performs properly. Seems like a lot more work and expense than getting the ‘85 carb to work.

[xboxrox]

THANKS everyone..! Vernon (a local guy who will work on cars) will install, inspect & adjust the 1985 Mikuni today once I pick-up the mounting gasket at O'Reilly's Kailua store... Automotive Mikuni manuals & info are obscure but motorcycle Mikuni is everywhere... I would consider a TBI conversion if available and not super expensive... I have a dream to rebuild my 1986 carby but 7 of 9 planets need to be in alignment for that to begin...

[xboxrox]

Mission Complete J/Y OEM Mikuni is installed & road tested: RUNS GREAT 'n more response, no lag @ WOT :)

Opps Virus, after sitting 10 minutes with heat soaked engine it would not start but started on 2nd try... Then missed a few times getting out of the grocery store parking lot... Wife says, don't worry, the truck is just getting used to it's heart transplant :grin:

Thank you all for your help & prayers -- God is watching over us... How else would PicknPull have a decent Mikuni carby NEVER..! As well as parts puller Allen there to nab & send it & Vernon here to install it..! Carb $125.00 shipped & $75.00 install with free engine shine :thumbup:
Aloha -- George
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=24648&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=24649&stc=1

[geezer101]

Who is that masked man? :secret: Hopefully the start glitches will iron themselves out, but it's not dumping fuel everywhere and it's running well once it chooses to start so that is promising.

[xboxrox]

Who is that masked man? :secret: Hopefully the start glitches will iron themselves out, but it's not dumping fuel everywhere and it's running well once it chooses to start so that is promising.

YEP YEP NO gas leaks & it runs :thumbup: That masked man is me co-avoiding the corona BUT I did HiFive Vernon when the truck fired up..! Wife says I don't need an ultrasonic cleaner now; yeah, I need a rebuilt steering gear now :)

[xboxrox]

UPDATE April 1st (No Fooling) Took photos of both the 1985 & 1986 Mikuni carburetors; looking the sameOh sameOh... They both have 3 HOLES plugged with what looks like two part epoxy... Not sure what the glue is meant to hold back or plug off: Gasoline, vacuum or close off the phenolic mixing body's casting vent holes..? Maybe I could use the same epoxy glue to fix the crack in my 1986 Mikuni (see carby2 photo)..?

Truck ran perfect today although still had a little rough running the first minute while choked BUT it's much less rough less duration & no black smoke or rich gas smell like before... Starts quicker too & has more umph to do 80MPH in an area previously limited to 60MPH by the truck's performance...

NO FOOLING HERE R PHOTOS:
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[geezer101]

When they build carbs they have to cross drill galleries sometimes to get them to route in the direction they need to operate various vacuum circuits. They use pressed in brass plugs on cast alloy carbs to seal off the externally drilled holes and that wouldn't work on a resin bodied carb, so they use an epoxy instead.

[claych]

???
Apologies,I have not seen brass plugs on any Thermoquad .
???

[geezer101]

Webers use alloy plugs. Nearly every every bike carb used pressed in brass that I'm aware of. All alloy Mikunis use brass as well and there is at least one exposed brass plug on the top cover of resin body Mikunis.

[xboxrox]

MIKUNI INFO LINKS:

https://www.autozone.com/repairguide...00c15280054793 (https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Mitsubishi-Pick-ups-and-Montero-1983-1995-Repair-Guide/CARBURETED-FUEL-SYSTEM/Carburetors/_/P-0900c15280054793)

Edited July 31st 2020: added TOMCO Mikuni Parts PDF doc

[claych]

^^^-
Moderators the above should be a sticky

[xboxrox]

HEY Ya'll :thumbup: POSSIBLE CARBURETOR FIX

My original 1986 Mikuni has a healthy sized "chunk" broke off at the mounting surface for the accelerator pump cover & 1st try fix with super glue did not work, leaked gasoline right away...

Today, saw & read this from my little parts/tools box --
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[85Ram50]

Cool.

[geezer101]

Meh, nothing to lose :thumbup:

[85Ram50]

How did it work out xbox?

[xboxrox]

How did it work out xbox?

Not worked quiet yet, but two other household chores got done today + checked by phoncon on the last of all the parts & tools I ordered which will arrive Monday 6" dial caliper (to use with float adjust tool)... I hope to spend some time today, tweaking a vacuum tester/brake bleeder set by finding a suitable container to hold the little parts & beef up the squeeze handle connection that another user on YouTube said was broke on the one he ordered... The one I got looks weird too at that same spot; hope to remove it from the package today & fix if needed... Blah, Blah...

US Navy Nuclear Trained Repair Technician (my job is to stop jobs that are not in verbatum compliance :^)
Motto: "STOP IS GOOD PROGRESS"
;)

Update/Edit
Completed unpacking all tools including the dial caliper (it just arrived) everything looks good & is arranged in a nice tool bag... Next activity will be touching the original Mikuni for an epoxy repair try...
THANKS for KEEPING me MOTIVATED

[85Ram50]

No problem. One more thing, there is a 2 part epoxy similar to JB Weld specifically for wet gas tank leaks. It is more clay like than bondo like. IDK if it would work in your application and for the life of me I cannot recall the name of it. I think it might be a Permatex product. It's been on my tank for a decade.

[xboxrox]

No problem. One more thing, there is a 2 part epoxy similar to JB Weld specifically for wet gas tank leaks. It is more clay like than bondo like. IDK if it would work in your application and for the life of me I cannot recall the name of it. I think it might be a Permatex product. It's been on my tank for a decade.

Maybe THIS: https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/build/epoxies/loctite_epoxy_weldbondingcompound.html

[85Ram50]

That stuff looks good but what I used was clay like. similar to this https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/radiator-tank-repair/permatex-fuel-tank-repair/
That is a two part clay. The black is wrapped around a grey center. You cut off how much you want and then mix it together and stick it on. I think I wire brushed the spot then hit it with paint after the cure time. It was a slow seeping leak from something sharp impacting the bottom. It stuck on there wet with gas. It said it would on the package.

[xboxrox]

Here's the Latest:

Spoke with Alan today who owns Carburetion Technologies in Tacoma, WA... Asked him where & how to begin trying to rebuild the Mikuni carburetor... I have two carbs; the original 1986 (broken phenolic body) & another 1985 carb from PicknPull J/Y both are California emissions 32-35DID TF... The 1985 carb has been on the truck 4 months & running good but now a no start issue, spark plugs are very black, 95% sure flooding...

Alan recommends (since I have zero carb experience) look at the diagram that came with the rebuild kit and count the pieces, approx 400 my guess... He said that's right, a lot of parts & could very well be the most difficult carb on the planet to rebuild & operate correctly afterwards...

He said do not try to epoxy, glue or repair the broken phenolic throttle body of the original carburetor... He says, use the original carburetor as a practice mule, mock up & training aid... Tear it down & put it back together (in proper sequence) enough times where I feel comfortable doing it out of memory... Then rebuild the J/Y carby that was running well on the truck... It might just have a piece of dirt lodged in the needle seat area...

He also said, do not mix 'n match parts from the two carbs to make one good carb; that's asking for trouble... Just fix the carb that was running good on the truck...

He answered my ? about using 3 mounting gaskets to insulate heat from the intake manifold to carb and he said NO, do not, too many chances for leaks with exh gases, coolant, vacuum and everything else in that joint; just use one gasket...

He mentioned modification to a Weber carb but warned of several little tweaks needed to finish the MOD, price will be about the same in the end...

Have I forgotten anything..? Well, hope this helps someone besides myself... At least I can stop hunting for the magic glue that resists immersion in ethanol gasoline (there is no such animal that I can afford).. I still wanna buy a good phenolic body and try ending up with two good carburetors (more likely with my lack of experience ONE good carb after two rebuild attempts, duh...) I can't even finish a 500 piece puzzle...

What's new on your end fellahs..?

ALOHA --
George

[85Ram50]

Good Luck Xboxrox! Sounds like a summer project. :)

[geezer101]

Using the dud carb as a test rig is good advice. And abandoning the idea of gluing the bad carb to fix it is equally solid (you never know if initially 'repairing' it won't be a permanent thing) When you got old kits, they came with 2 base gaskets. You were supposed to remove the bakelite spacer and sandwich it between the 2 paper gaskets supplied. The bakelite spacer would sometimes get a hairline crack in them and it was near undetectable. The newer kits have a single thick cardboard spacer to replace all 3 components. If you are making a good one from 2 carbs you have to be sure that both of them haven't suffered the same fault (bad auto choke/secondary/butterfly shaft leaks/auto choke release assist etc) and ensure you have a COMPLETE kit to rebuild one properly (not missing diaphragms or the correct auto choke assist for your carb) They are a PITA to work on and there are a few variants with different components fitted to them - hell, I haven't even seen a Mikuni with a factory electric auto choke in person :shrug:

The Weber isn't a straight forward nut-and-bolt swap. There is messing around with tuning it to run decently without investing in redialling the advance on the distributor or trying to get the most out of it by porting etc but the pay off is an engine that'll perform better and be more economical in the long run. The Weber is a simple beast to pull apart but if you've just bought one out of the box, you won't be fooling around with it for a good decade.

[xboxrox]

geezer your details help me a lot, thank you...

[xboxrox]

Guys & Gals,

I dug into my (original 1986 cracked) Mikuni carburetor more today and DO NOT plan to glue the cracked phenolic fuel bowl/throttle body... I will use the J/Y 1985 Mikuni's phenolic body... So, I can't figure out how the Bowl Vent Valve SELENOID does whatever it does to operate the BVV diaphragm to send fuel vapors to the vapor canister... I think selenoids have a moving part when voltage is applied or removed, RIGHT..?

What is the moving part of the BVV selenoid (?); the little hole that holds the spring OR the larger metal round surface area section, see PIC 3..? If anyone knows how to clean & test this selenoid please chime in... PICS:

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I could use help in knowing how to test any or all the selenoids on the carb; they had cracked "O" rings by the way... Hope I don't ruin the BVV selenoid as it will get cleaned one way or another which I hope does not destroy it..? There is a bunch crud & gunk around the inner perimiter that I want gone... Too bad I don't if PB Blaster OR carburetor cleaner spray would damage it or free up anything that might supposed to be a moving part..?

Aloha & Stay Safe --
George

[geezer101]

There are no parts on a carb that will adversely react to carb/brake cleaner so GO HARD!!?! You would need to clean the solenoids and seats/housings etc to get them to actuate properly. The air circuit control solenoids on feed back carbs (the thin ones that look like a sketchy fuel injector) can be tested with 12v - hook it up with polarity correct (follow a wire and if it goes to the manifold, it's a ground) it'll kick hard.

[xboxrox]

geezer you're the Man; you would be a good boss to work under...

MAHALO

[FMS88]

The BVV part in your pictures is an electromagnet. When energized it pulls on the metal disk of the BVV diaphragm. At the other end of the diaphragm shaft is a donut shaped disc. The shaft goes through the center of the disc. To access and remove the diaphragm and disc, the top, air horn portion of the carb must be separated from the phenolic mixing body. Chances are the disc has degraded so the float bowl is always exposed to atmospheric pressure and that’s causing the rich condition. Before you remove the disc, note the direction of the slightly tapered end. Fortunately the disc and diaphragm are inexpensive and available on eBay so consider replacing them even if they look okay.
Good luck with Douglas. Hope it doesn’t case you any problems.

[xboxrox]

The BVV part in your pictures is an electromagnet. When energized it pulls on the metal disk of the BVV diaphragm. At the other end of the diaphragm shaft is a donut shaped disc. The shaft goes through the center of the disc. To access and remove the diaphragm and disc, the top, air horn portion of the carb must be separated from the phenolic mixing body. Chances are the disc has degraded so the float bowl is always exposed to atmospheric pressure and that’s causing the rich condition. Before you remove the disc, note the direction of the slightly tapered end. Fortunately the disc and diaphragm are inexpensive and available on eBay so consider replacing them even if they look okay.
Good luck with Douglas. Hope it doesn’t case you any problems.

THANK YOU for wishing us well about DOUGLAS

:) :)) :) <--- that's me in the middle..! I WILL follow your advice, for sure... Now I can clean & test that sucker without FEAR..!

Please excuse me 88 but it's in my nature to wonder: "Where, How, When, etc... did you ever get that knowledge..?

More questions forming in my brain:

I came up with another (?) idea for trying to check or test the choke system on the Mikuni while I have it mostly apart BUT without having to completely disassemble it... I was thinking of putting the wax pellet end of the carb's top cover into hot water to see if the wax pellet does anything or does what it's supposed to do (whatever that is..?) I noticed the threaded shaft on this wax pellet looks rather bent (even perhaps broken?) and trying to move it or any of the brackets attached to it is impossible (my fingers not strong enough) There is a diaphragm called the choke breaker that moves some linkage parts which I assume opens the choke blade when the engine is warmed up (I have a replacement diaphragm)... I don't know if the wax pellet & choke linkage needs only hot water OR also vacuum OR also throttle positioning to perform it's function... Guess what I mean is that I don't know if the wax pellet choke system can be properly tested by me coz I do not plan on complete disassembly, it looks way too complex... And, I bat about .500 which in baseball is great but in fixing stuff, it means I break 50% of the things I try to fix, not good... If it ain't broke, don't fix it is so true, in my case anywho... My truck always ran way too rich when 1st started but once warmed up it ran ok...

NOTES:
1) I noticed the new float I got from Rock Auto is not really the same as my original; it's different enough that making the same float adjustment would change the bowl fuel level quite a bit... At this point, I am considering not doing anything to the original existing needle seat filter or float except take the float adjustment measurement and call it good (thinking my poor batting average) Oh, I do have a hand vacuum pump which I think can be used to test the needle seat for any leakage; I should do that too...

2) The original Mikuni gaskets look like a plastic material much different than the paper gaskets in the rebuild kit from Autozone (cheapy) So, I am toying with the idea of possibly reusing the original factory Mikuni gasket (phenolic fuel bowl/throttle body) gaskets top & bottom (PB Blaster helped a lot to separate the carb without breaking those two gaskets or breaking the phenolic plastic... But, I also know that good engineering practice usually demands using new software & new gaskets...

3) There was one large ball bearing in the bottom of the fuel bowl trapped (?) under some swing arms of a thing call overfill or overflow device (?) I just wonder if that is the correct place for that big ball bearing to reside..? Hope not to find any holes in the phenolic body big enough for that big ball bearing to fit into (that would cause even more ????) yikes..!

4) Quarantine & the truck not running has forced me to work on this carburetor in my apartment & on the outdoor lanai; PB Blaster stinks..! But I did not ruin any fasteners yet, including the Phillips screws... :^)

5) The carb's selenoids all had broken "O" rings -- I wonder if my local O'Reilly's has a good supply of "O" rings -- knowing them, I will end up with a $45.00 "O" ring kit just to get the four rings...

6) I don't have access to 100 PSI air to clean the carb parts 'n passages; so I am forced to use my can of computer keyboard spray air..! Hm

Enuff for now, my little brain is starting to HURT
TYVM FSM88 and everyone else giving me a helping hand here; especially geezer & 85Ram too :clap1:

25411

[FMS88]

Please excuse me 88 but it's in my nature to wonder: "Where, How, When, etc... did you ever get that knowledge..?

I've worked on cars since the late 60s and have owned my truck for 30 years. In that time I've collected service manuals, technical and training guides. Plus there's the internet, of course, but you have to be careful since that info can be unreliable. Over the years the truck has required maintenance and developed various issues (carb problems being one) that have given me many hands-on opportunities.
I've rebuilt a number of Gen2 carbs but only disassembled one Gen1 carb and that was years ago. While functionally similar, they have significant design differences especially concerning the BVV actuation, the choke and EGR management. My experience is too limited to help with the wax choke issue, but there are Gen1 owners like geezer 101, who can. As to your other questions:
1. If your uncertain about the new float and the old one doesn't leak, use the old one. Inspect the float needle and seat for wear. If none and they pass your vacuum test, you can get by reusing them. However, if the needle is rubber tipped, try using the new one if it doesn't affect the float height and passes the vacuum test.
2. I'd use the new gasket, but compare it to the old one to be sure (as geezer counsels) that all holes are there and in the same locations.
3. The ball bearing and metal arms in the float bowl are a safety measure on 4x4 trucks in the event of a roll-over. When you're upside-down, they push on the float thereby shutting off the fuel flow. Like some of the major carb rebuilders, you can omit them without consequence.
4. and 6. As Donald Rumsfeld said, "you go to war with the army you got."
5. I've always found more o-rings than needed in the kits I've bought. If you can't find ones you need, PM me the dimensions and I'll see if I have ones that match.

Here are the ebay listings for the diaphragm and cap (I called a disc) I think you need and mentioned in my previous post:
Diaphram:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Solex-BVV-Bowl-vent-Diaphragm-1219F/333644647956?hash=item4daec54e14:g:U-UAAOSwO9dfAKzT

Diaphragm cap:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TOMCO-7410-Carburetor-Choke-Pull-Off-Diaphragm-Cap/322266916028?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOME SPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225086%26meid%3D40433a 6f17ee477b8d7295cce5c9aabf%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1 %26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D333140957480%26itm %3D322266916028%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675 %26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bDemotion% 26brand%3DTomco&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

And here's a listing for the entire BVV that might fit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mitsubishi-md608222-VALVE-Assembly-BOWL-VENT/311579899856?epid=1564006633&hash=item488b9bf7d0:g:CcgAAOSwZ8ZW~Itk

I don't have a parts book that's detailed enough to include internal carb parts, so I recommend you check these to make sure they fit your carburetor. You can't always be sure of the listing's accuracy.

Have fun.

[xboxrox]

I've worked on cars since the late 60s and have owned my truck for 30 years. Have fun.

FSM88 you really know how to help out; a few highly skilled tradesmen won't share their secrets or even offer any help to others... Maybe those types of people are worried about their job security or they wanna stay the best no matter what..? Many thanks for your post & links & O ring offer...

I bookmarked the 1st & 2nd link and had already seen and bookmarked the 3rd link (I even emailed the ebay seller about the $69 NOS BVV) I will contact the sellers at link 1 & 2 as well... I also just emailed two carburetor rebuild sites asking if they have the BVV software... My BVV diaphragm is not torn but the rubber valve disk feels hardened but not cracked, the O ring is bad; may reuse diaphragm and disk if no one lowers any prices...

OK, you got a plan for me to follow about the float, needle, seat & little filter (not sure if any O ring resides in there...)

How cleaver a device to shut off fuel for a rollover; I had zero ideas how that gizmo did anything or what it did..! You know plenty dude..!

Today, I FINALLY got the sub EGR out (what a struggle fighting carbon) carb cleaner spray eats black nitrile gloves, yuck... and, cleaned off the gasket in pieces of the lower section of the carb... and, also gave a hot bath to the lower part of the carby in ultrasonic cleaner with Pine Sol & Palmolive dish soap (just a little of each)... I might try some cream of tartar & fresh lemon juice to remove scum on the on the cadmium plated parts...

FSM88 wonder if your batting average got good results in your carburetor rebuilds; any success & worth it..? Hope my truck will live again..?

Some Photos:

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[geezer101]

I think the original factory rebuild gasket kits had neoprene gaskets instead of paper/cardboard. You can imagine how extortionistically expensive one of those kits would have been to buy from a dealership. I tend to think that buying a kit and DIY'ing it is a better deal than buying a reman'd carb. They don't put the attention the carb needs into them - they look pretty, but once you have seen how hit-and-miss the gaskets are you can't imagine some guy on a production line checking air gallery alignment and derestricting gasket overhang which is the difference between a 'working' carb and a responsive carb. The upside of buying reman'd is not needing a degree in Mitsubishi-Astronphysics and just bolting it up.

They are a biatch to diagnose and work on. The fuel bowl vent (as you've discovered), the water auto choke (just...don't even), secondary vac actuator (easy to fix, but the Achilles heel of noob truck owners that think their truck is naturally a gutless donkey), accelerator enrichment pump (a crowd favourite...), auto choke release assist (most people don't even know it has one or where the hell it is), the fuel cut solenoid (get ready to claw your eyes out in frustration if this thing ever decides to start glitching on you) and then you get to the fun stuff like factory pre-set adjustment screws that someone has tampered with (hey hey! lets see who can make the 3 pointer shot into the scrap bin with that !@#$ing carb)

George, you make a compelling argument for owning an ultrasonic parts cleaner - I gotta me one of dem :grin: Getting it spotlessly clean goes a long way to a successful rebuild. Keep us posted!

[FMS88]

xboxrox,
Your truck will live. You've got your careful approach, good tools and this site as a resource to guide you to success. My first attempt failed because I had only the FSM and my general skills which proved inadequate up against the Mikuni's complexity. It took much research, info gathering and the destruction of a carb (or two) to map the passages and functions, for me to have a successful rebuild. Fortunately you won't have to go to such extremes. If you persevere, take your time, and ask questions (with your great pics), you're much more likely to have a positive outcome.

[camoit]

The trapped ball in the bottom of the float bowl is a roll over ball to cut the fuel off.
The best stuff to clean carbon in any EGR is Techron. Just get a bottle from the local parts store. It melts it with in seconds. What ever is left over you can dump in the tank.
As for the thermal wax just place the carb in hot water from the stove.
DO NOT DO IT UNLESS YOU HAVE THE CHOKE SPRING IN PLACE AND THE CHOKE WORKING.
It will expand if it's good. When that takes a crap you are screwed. or if it pops out because you didn't have it contained in place by the choke spring. (I found that out the hard way.) It's not available anymore. If you remove it there is an O ring that seals the water that flows through the carb. (I found that out the hard way.) Pulled it out and water shot out. The spring that pushes on it, is super strong.

[geezer101]

Wax pellets are nearly extinct. Did find this though - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MIKUNI-SOLEX-CARBURETTOR-CHOKE-WAX-PELLET-FITS-SUZUKI-VITARA-4WD-G16A-1-6L-88-94-/202047203128

Anyone got a spare $154.50 AUD lying around for one? :rolleyes:

[xboxrox]

You guys are the best; giving out so much Mikuni carburetor info --- THANK YOU ALL..!

All we did today was cook, eat and wait for hurricane Douglas to arrive Oahu... Praise be the storm stayed north just enough to bring out the surfers and not much else...

Am eager to get back working on Mr. Mikuni... camoit, I just realized your info must mean it will be OK to put the carb top section with wax pellet into the heated ultrasonic cleaner bath water just below boiling... None of those choke parts have been disassembled or disconnected...

The ultrasonic cleaner won't remove the black crud or carbon, carb cleaner and brushing/scraping takes it off... But the bath water does get dirty so it does clean somewhat... Am hoping the other parts will fit into the tank as well as the bottom carb section...

Truck Lives Matter :thumbup:

[xboxrox]

TODAY bought Techron 'n will give it a try at cleaning carbon deposits ( the Sub EGR is gross with hard carbon deposit)... I am sure Techron soak will help but the unltrasonic cleaner will never replace carburetor cleaner + wire brush + scraper... Ultrasonic cleaner filled with warm water & only the glass jar has Techron; jar cap loosened to allow bubbles to escape... Ultrasonic cleaning IMHO would be the last cleaning operation after all the standard hand scrubbing brushing scraping, etc... Maybe an industrial ultrasonic cleaner cleans good but my cleaner is more of a toy-ota
:lmao:

PHOTOS:

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LESSON LEARNED:

NAPA & O'Reilly's taught me that "O" rings come in two types METRIC & STANDARD... Chances are neither store will have what I need in stock but they do sell "O" ring kits $47.00 & $107.00 respectfully..! Forgot to ask if either kit comes with both Metric & Standard ring sizes & qty of each size? Google is teaching me that a 2% stretch of the "O" ring is good meaning the "O" ring I.D. should be a tad smaller than the groove O.D. it will reside in... Gotta use my 6" dial vernier calipers + inch to mm chart + measure the "O" ring CS (cross section) & "O" ring I.D. and O.D... The carb's selenoids and Bowl Vent Valve assy need new "O" rings...

Sheeesh :thumbdown:

[xboxrox]

LATE TODAY did more disassembly & gasket clean off to MR. MIKUNI; top of the carb needs removal of dah choke breaker diaphragm 'n then should be ready for a hot bath in dah ultrasonic cleaner... It's also gonna need the crud scraped off the two coolant water nipples on the wax pellet & digging deep to remove carbon in the bowl vent passage... My glass jar of Techron is chuck full of tiny little parts, many with tiny "O" rings... Surprised me that the only tough part to remove was the screw holding in the pilot jet... I failed to photo taking the float measurement after removing the top cover gasket but noted it measured .820" which would keep the fuel level on the lower side of perfect (right?) FSM spec is .787" (20mm) +/- .003" (1mm) The needle rubber tip looks OK to my old eyes & it held vacuum pretty well BUT the vacuum needle did fall but very slowly... Testing the J/Y carb float when it comes off the truck should be interesting cause that carb floods somehow... I am very interested to see if it has the same white plastic float or a slighty larger black float like the one that came from Rock Auto... I happened to notice the Autozone gasket rebuild kit has instructions that take the float measurement in a different manner & the picture looks like the larger black style float... The needle/seat filter had only one little spec of dirt...

So I will be posting some photos of my mess, starting now: :thumbup:

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[xboxrox]

July 30th 2020 9:30pm HST

Tonight got more disassembly & cleaning done on Mr. Mikuni's fuel bowl cover, carb top section, air horn, whatever else it's called... The choke breaker, pull off diaphragm, whatever else it's called was fun to take apart & it's diaphragm was totally shot (no wonder the truck ran so rich on startup) The wax pellet does it's thing correctly in the ultrasonic cleaner heated bath water (see pics) the choke butterfly opened nicely & stays open... Bath water has Pine-Sol (not much) & Palmolive dishwashing soap (a fair amount) and the 2.5L size cleaner with basket is just big enough to clean the Mikuni parts...

Mikuni parts are getting pretty scarce; ebay & Rock Auto has helped but not all is available (so far in my parts search) Now, I understand the convenience of the Weber conversion in the case of keeping the truck on the road any way ya can... Hawaii is a no smog state so if needed, a Weber conversion might very well help keep me trucking... I have not lost faith in fixing my Mikuni yet; luckily I have a 2nd carb from PicknPull to help cobble me a good carb...

NOTE: Don't use Pine-Sol if you like the Golden look of cadmium plating ~ it will change it to silver gray color..!

Until we meet again; good luck camoit in updating, please hurry, we need our daily fix of drucks
:thumbup:

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[geezer101]

The auto choke release assist will also cause internal vac metering issues when they fail. This gadget is like $35 AUD by itself (when you can find one)

[xboxrox]

The auto choke release assist will also cause internal vac metering issues when they fail. This gadget is like $35 AUD by itself (when you can find one)

GOOD POINT geezer..!

Maybe (?) vacuum metering issues could be caused if any software part under vacuum were to leak (?) (O rings diaphragms valve disks vacuum hoses etc...)

Ordered a new choke breaker diaphragm from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333644647956

So far these software items leaked vacuum in my original carby:(disassembly visual inspection, vacuum test & engine operation confirmed):

1) Secondary throttle actuator depression chamber (did not open the secondary butterflies)
2) Choke breaker pull off diaphragm (rottened, did not operate the choke butterfly)
3) Three of the four DSV ESV JSV selenoids had broken O rings (not sure the effect)
4) The BVV bowl vent valve O ring (totally shot 'n gunked up the BVV diaphragm)

Guess what..? After installing the PicknPull J/Y 1985 Mikuni carburetor; one of the first things I noticed was a dramatic increase in braking power..! Do you suppose all these leaking parts on the carb affected the amount of vacuum assist on the braking system..? Something caused the seat of my pants (foot) to feel a noticeable difference in ease of pedal pressure needed for breaking... That J/Y carb more than likely has a good secondary throttle acutator depression chamber because that carburetor caused the truck to have a new thing; passing gear..! Buwaaah..!

Your Thoughts Anyone (Good Catch geezer :thumbup:)

[xboxrox]

CHOKE COVER DISASSEMBLY & FASTENER TYPE:
(ALL 5 SCREWS ARE Tamper Proof Male Thread Metric M5 x 80) Tamper proof not required to reassemble choke cover; not sure why Mikuni used tamper proof fasteners on the choke cover piece... NOTICE THE MASSAGE MARKS FROM DREMEL GRINDING WHEEL TO MAKE A SCREWDRIVER SLOT TO REMOVE 3 steel TAMPER PROOF SCREWS & CUT OFF THE RIVET END OF 2 brass CENTER SCREWS...
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[camoit]

testing. No such attachments. They did not load for some reason. Make another post and go on. Just ignore it.

[xboxrox]

----------- (1985 Mikuni PicknPull J/Y) ------------ ---------- (Original 1986 Mikuni) -----------

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Which one do ya think had the bad secondary throttle actuator..? Why ya think so..?

[geezer101]

Hmm. Good question. A badly fouled secondary throttle butterfly and a sketchy looking primary on contestant #2 HINT HINT :think:

[xboxrox]

Hmm. Good question. A badly fouled secondary throttle butterfly and a sketchy looking primary on contestant #2 HINT HINT :think:

THAT'S CORRECT :clap: the 1986 carby gave the truck much less power than contestant # 1

[xboxrox]

PROGRESS ~ Remove Carburetor: :rolleyes: (finally working on doing it ~ towards it...)
1) Disconnect battery, done neg side anyway
2) Drain coolant, done one gallon, should be enough to lower coolant level below the intake manifold PHOTOS BELOW
3) Remove air cleaner, pending
4) Disconnect throttle cable, pending
5) etc... pending

My original Mikuni is in my apartment looking like a 500 piece puzzle ~ a PicknPull Mikuni is on the truck (but not for a lot longer) :nono:

COOLANT DRAIN PHOTOS
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[xboxrox]

Moh Progress

Began testing the carburetor selenoids in my apt; one test is complete & the selenoid operates good, not sure if it will operate correctly in the truck... I will check if voltage is sent to the selenoids when the ignition key is turned to "ON" by probing the carburetor main harness connector pins with a DMM... Maybe the selenoids only receive power when the truck is running & receiving commands from the ECM 'n TPS..? Not sure if the FSM explains testing the selenoids on the truck or not; too lazy to read today...

The Gen1 Mikuni carburetor has a throttle opener/dash pot with a large diaphragm attached to a rod that operates the throttle to prevent it's opening 'n closing too quickly... I searched to locate a source for buying another one but this part does not seem to be available... It would be great to find a seller with this part... All other parts with rubber diaphragms are available on ebay & parts stores but quantities won't last forever...

Aloha & Stay Safe --

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[xboxrox]

Did some carby selenoid cleaning this morning, why is there a tiny little hole in the BVV selenoid guys..? Possibly to allow air to move into that little chamber as the diaphragm is pulled back by the selenoid (magnetic pull)..? FYI, only by cleaning did I discover there was a hole & it was plugged solid with hard brown crud... I'm sure if the rebuild carby works that my truck will go much faster now that it has another hole..!
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Keeping Safe & Sane --
Aloha George

[xboxrox]

Got new spark plugs installed tonight in preps for a rebuilt carburetor (not yanking the old carb until the hose pinch set arrives)... Next trip to the garage will check spark plug wire continuity & install a new dist cap & rotor... Not being able to work on the truck except for a small block of time at night in clandestine mode + my slow motion is making this dry docking a six month project..! But, it will be worth the expense, time & effort IF the little truck runs even average afterwards... Now, I more fully appreciate having all the knowledge 'n parts 'n tools or a new rebuilt part on hand before tearing into something like a carburetor... Good thing we can survive without wheels if need be...

So, I been researching "Timing Lights" for a way to check the timing on this truck; some lights innova have a tachometer built in... Some lights use D size batteries not the vehicle battery to power themselves (good for jobs like a boat or other vehicle with difficult access to the battery...)

So, I guess a timing light will help check the timing..? Which light do you fellahs recommend..?

The old spark plugs fouled pretty bad huh..? No start..!

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[85Ram50]

I have the Harbor Freight timing light. Don't get it. It works but the light is so dim it is difficult to see unless I set up optimum circumstances and have it so close I almost can't see around it. Not one of their better products.

[xboxrox]

I have the Harbor Freight timing light. Don't get it. It works but the light is so dim it is difficult to see unless I set up optimum circumstances and have it so close I almost can't see around it. Not one of their better products.

You just saved me $29.99 plus shipping: THANK YOU 85Ram50 :thumbup:
The ESI 130 self powered timing light [Made-in-USA] & [available in places other than Amazon] gets ok reviews, dunno if it has the adjustable timing feature... <--- that feature I assume moves the timing mark around the pully & you then just move the dist to center the mark on the pointer..? No more need to see timing marks on the crank pully balancer to set total timing advance, etc... I also don't think the ESI 130 light has a tachometer to see RPM... Hand held RPM tachometers are another $15-30 @ Summit Racing and I would get one if my timing light had no RPM feature... Thats my thinking right now... A long long time ago, I owned a beautiful chrome metal Craftsman timing light which is vintage now & probably pricey to buy... No complaints on the Craftsman light brightness but those cables & connections to the battery & inductance connector 'n cable were somewhat cumbersome... I also like the top end innova Pro timing light BUT my innova 3320 DMM is not that great, the battery checker lights don't work & I don't think the audable sound works as well + I already have a lot of stuff [Made-in-China] THANK YOU CHINA for everything :fire:

Best-O-Luck on your transmission dust cap fix :chopwood:don't use too big a hammer & have a solid hand backup or bench edge to pound on... Check out YouTube vids how to HAND form sheet metal caps cups rounds forms and the like...

[geezer101]

The image is kinda grimy due to the carbon build up, but the plug gaps look massive (to me anyway...) I would regap the plugs to 0.85mm and be a touch more aggressive with the timing. What plugs are you using George? Stick to NGK's or Bosch :thumbup:

[85Ram50]

Thanks George. Let me know what light you get and how it works. I may follow suit.

[xboxrox]

Installed new NAPA dist cap, rotor & plug wires this evening. I hope the mechanic (Sam) gapped the ignition module correctly? The new spark plugs NGK5ES (original spec) gap about .042" am waiting for the hose pinch set to remove the J/Y carb... Can't tell if ESI 130 timing light is Made in US or China -- seen it listed both ways, it's the one I will probably get about $75 & might get a cheapo laser tach... I hate buying tools... Fired up the iwatani butane torch today, should have enuff power to fry or break sumthin :thumbup:

[xboxrox]

Made some progress on the Mikuni rebuild this morning, delay, delay... The nuclear navy taught me that "STOP IS GOOD PROGRESS" and it just came into play... I tried using a 12mm combo wrench to remove the carb's fuel inlet nipple because I thought like all the other threaded fittings, it's O ring would need replacing... Perhaps not..!?! Maybe it does not have an O ring ~ maybe it's a pipe thread connection..? So, I made a command decision to STOP [stop guessing & get some real answers from my friends here at MightyRam50...] The real reason I stopped was because it will require a great deal of torque force to remove that fitting; more than my one old hand X 3" wrench length could muster... an I don't wanna break anything + I don't have a vice, yada, yada...

WHY CANCEL THIS STEP in the rebuild (?)
1) The nipple is on there very tight (might break sumpin removing it)
2) The nipple[I] never leaked (before ultrasonic cleaning in boiling water) and later on the truck, there is easy access & the carb is held solidly
3) If it ain't broke don't fix it (same goes for choke, wax pellet, throttle butterfly blades & throttle shafts...)
4) STOP guessing & get real answers before proceeding
5) A good Nuke is always able to stop a job one way or another :thumbup: much like the P.O. :grinno: or eBay :lmao:

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[geezer101]

I'd leave the fuel inlet alone unless the carb was sketchy on where you got it from. They are held on with threadlocker and will come off easy enough once the loctite stuff has released. I replaced one with an oversized ID fuel barb on a trick carb I built centuries ago :)

[geezer101]

...and my offer to send you a kit still stands. Not sure if the MS500B kit is correct for this model Mikuni.
And not sure if you'd get the kit if it went through KENTUCKY anyway :cussingblack:

[xboxrox]

KENTUCKY :cussingblack:

:wrench:

[xboxrox]

Reassembly Photos
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[xboxrox]

REASSEMBLY PHOTOS II

LESSONS LEARNED SINCE LAST POST: :drinkingdrunk: <---- NOT GOOD FOR CARB REBUILDING..!

1) BICYCLE SHOPS CARRY SMALL INDIVIDUAL STEEL BALL BEARINGS (LOST THE EGR BALL BEARING ~ MY LOCAL BIKE SHOP HAD THE 1/8" BALL NO ONE ELSE HAD EM THAT SMALL)

2) EXFOLIATION HAPPENS TO METALS WASHED IN WATER SOLUTIONS

3) LUBRICANTS ARE NEEDED TO REMEDY THE EFFECTS OF EXFOLIATION

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[xboxrox]

My original 1986 Mikuni 32-35 DID TF has the accelerator pump still attached -- it is a California emissions feedback carb with O2 sensor... Not sure what version the other Mikuni but hoping the 1985 carby on the truck has a matching phenolic body -- do you see any differences in these two carb bodies? Will try uploading a cell phone photo:
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The 1985 carburetor arrived & does have the same phenolic throttle body as my 1986 Mikuni :thumbup:

[xboxrox]

Uploading a photo from cell phone (previous post) resulted in a link to the photo but not a ready to see photo... Here are the photos resized with MSFT Paint & uploaded with a laptop PC:

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As a result of the differences in the photos above; the Mikuni rebuild project will require removing the carby on the truck & seeing if it has a matching phenolic fuel bowl/throttle body/center section... Awaiting a set of hose pinch clamps from Harbor Freight to arrive before removing the J/Y flooding prone carb... The truck has new ignition module (in the distributor) new dist cap, new dist rotor, new spark plug wires, new coil, new spark plugs... Ignition module gap not checked by me, a local shop did that install, hope they gapped it correctly..? Ignition timing never checked by me, a local mechanic friend (Vernon) did it by ear... If the truck runs again, I may purchase a timing light & Tachometer...

Pandemic is not boring me to death ~ it's the Mikuni killing me ~ can't even get out of the apt to go for a ride ~ my truck is my only vehicle... FORD found on the road dead ~ DODGE dear old dad's garage experiment

More funny DODGE: http://acronymsandslang.com/DODGE-meaning.html

ALOHA --
:ambulance: :jumpinganger:

[camoit]

I see a lot of extra drill holes. I would put on an early first gen all metal one and try it. 90% of the smog tech's don't know anything about carbs.
Never mind you have feedback. Your stuck with the BS.

[geezer101]

The non Cali carb doesn't have the fuel shut off gallery next to the accelerator pump/fuel bowl. A lot of the air galleries appear to be smaller diameter too but that may only be as a result of the picture angle. The early resin body carbs didn't have a lot of air gallery control solenoids (only one IIRC) so the extra galleries are probably feeds to those air circuits.

[xboxrox]

Thanks for that feedback camoit & geezer ~ you must know I love all feedback including Mitsubishi's & Mikuni's & California's... Thank you member 4cylinders for sending me that carburetor simply for the price of shipping... There is a 4 digit letter/number in white letters on my 86 Calif phenolic body but only one white digit is partially visible on the unk # donated phenolic body... There is a big Wasp drinking from my window A/C out on the lanai where both those phenolic bodies are stored... Otherwise, I would run out there right now with a magnifier and check the #s again... No need really, even with the gasket in place, I can see several differences as you guys mentioned... This is a good learning experience for me & hopefully other feedback lovers :^) Last time I checked, Shamrock Wrecking yard in Ridgecrest, CA had three used Calif Mikuni carbs...

As time goes by, I understand more clearly how given the need for a complete rebuild on an OEM Mikuni or installing a new Weber compares... I think a main benefit of the Weber is simplicity and Parts ARE more readily available... Now if there was a similar fix for my leaking steering gear box that a seal replacement did'nt fix, I would like to know about it (does Weber make new steering gear boxes too..?)

Life is Good ~ MightyRam50 & Mr. Mikuni Help Prevent Pandemic Boredom
Aloha --
P.S. When will those dang hose pinch clamps get here..?
P.P.S. I have made contact with a parts puller guy in Tacoma, WA ~ PicknPull yard there has a 1986 4X4 Dodge Power Ram50 ~ if our Rammy truck lives again after it's heart transplant I already have permission for him to pull, ship to rebuilders the steering gear box from that J/Y truck...
:thumbup:

[FMS88]

Now if there was a similar fix for my leaking steering gear box that a seal replacement did'nt fix, I would like to know about it (does Weber make new steering gear boxes too..?)

P.P.S. I have made contact with a parts puller guy in Tacoma, WA ~ PicknPull yard there has a 1986 4X4 Dodge Power Ram50 ~ if our Rammy truck lives again after it's heart transplant I already have permission for him to pull, ship to rebuilders the steering gear box from that J/Y truck...
:thumbup:

Did you replace only the pitman shaft seal, or other seals as well so that you had to remove the power steering unit? If it's leaking from the pitman shaft seal only, both the seal and a u-packing located above the seal need to be replaced to stop that kind of leak. Unfortunately you can't get to the u-packing without removing the P/S unit and partially disassembling it to pull out the shaft. Also, as far as I know the packing is only available in rebuild kits ($45 at RA). It's a messy job and a good vice to hold the unit while you work on it is a big help, but it's much less expensive than going the re-builder route.

[xboxrox]

FSM88 Thank you for that sage advice ~ a local mechanic/friend Vernon, did remove the box & sector shaft but did not use the entire contents of the rebuild kit software parts ~ he seemed to be aware of the dust cap & oil seal ~ he even hand sanded the sector shaft... The steering improved a lot (it was getting very sloppy) but that darn dripping leak is still there... I just got email from Gary at MitsubishiPartsCentral the only OEM part they have is the seal kit $49 shipped (?) ~ all other 4X4 power steering gear box parts are discontinued and none are to be found on the shelf... I really hoped to get a new OEM sector shaft about $120.00 (?) IF we get the carb problem solved & the truck runs then I was thinking (with your advice) get the J/Y box from Tacoma, WA PicknPull and send it to Hawaii... Use the Mitsubishi factory seal kit and DIY rebuild while keeping the truck able to drive 'n on the road until the rebuild is complete and give Vernon another $200 to swap out the steering boxes... Or, Sam has the Windward Muffler Shop across the street with an outdoor vice & lift ~ I should ask him if he has the knowhow to rebuild a steering gear box..? I like that idea ~ he replaced the muffler with the help of sealant over the welds ~ :^))

STEERING GEAR PARTS OEM
Sector Shaft - Mitsubishi (MB351208)
Power Steering Return Hose - Mitsubishi (MB243611)
Power Steering Pressure Hose - Mitsubishi (MB243610)
Power Steering Supply Hose - Mitsubishi (MB166927)
Pitman Arm - Mitsubishi (MB527227)
Seal Kit - Mitsubishi (MB351156)

[xboxrox]

EPOXY FIX ~ PHOTO STORY

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[geezer101]

Your technique is good but I tend to agree with you - I don't think it's gonna like being exposed to fuel and heat simultaneously. The specs on epoxy claim it'll withstand fuel exposure and temperatures from 150 - 300 F but then that'll depend on how it's mixed and applied etc. Looking at the damage it's easy to figure out what happened. Either the wrong length screw was installed or it was overtightened. There appears to be a specific epoxy for fuel exposed parts but it might be subjective. The only alternative I can think of is in the too hard basket - building the damaged area up with JB weld and shaping it back and I have no idea if it'll want to stick to the carb body either. You'd have to be a renaissance master to mill and sculpt that out...

[tortron]

you could tap the body and run some bolts through to hold it all together. That part of the carb wont get too warm tho. fuel vaporlocks ata bout 200f

Id probably jbweld some pins through the two parts and smear the join with the same

[xboxrox]

The pin idea, hmmm (?) The household DIY 2 part epoxy I used is supposedly fuel resistant but it won't hold up to much heat... Google says there are 1 part epoxies good for 600°F and some RTV products that take the heat & fuel emmersion... Plan on spending $1,000 USD per pint or 10 oz tube for these products... EPA regulations require underground gasoline tanks be double walled & fiberglass epoxy type construction... So there are adhesives that can be emmersed in fuels & cooked, but none are in my tool box...
:thumbup:

It would be interesting to install this epoxied carb to see the results but I don't have a fire truck to follow me around...

It will just be a :worthless:

[geezer101]

Yeah, don't invite your truck to a barbeque. I don't know if this brittle resin will take to being tapped and threaded either. It's the reason why the brass inserts are moulded into the part. I used to do something similar when I was an injection moulder (I worked production runs on VN/VP Commodore tail light assemblies) and we had to fit metal inserts into the back housings. Nice job :bang:

[FMS88]

a local mechanic/friend Vernon, did remove the box & sector shaft but did not use the entire contents of the rebuild kit software parts ~ he seemed to be aware of the dust cap & oil seal ~ he even hand sanded the sector shaft... The steering improved a lot (it was getting very sloppy) but that darn dripping leak is still there...

Looks like Vernon replaced the cross shaft seals like I did. The left over kit pieces are probably for the rest of the gear box which he didn't touch. If yours still leaks, the cross shaft and housing may be too worn. Hard to say that a J/Y box might have the same issue, but that might be the only option to try if there are no remans available.

[xboxrox]

Looks like Vernon replaced the cross shaft seals like I did. The left over kit pieces are probably for the rest of the gear box which he didn't touch. If yours still leaks, the cross shaft and housing may be too worn. Hard to say that a J/Y box might have the same issue, but that might be the only option to try if there are no remans available.

Thank you FMS88 for that positive guidance... :thumbup:

[xboxrox]

Since I been struggling with carburetor issues & an epoxy fix this Google thing popped up & I am saying WTF is this..? Might this be a good thing..?

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Toyota was fighting carburetor vapor lock back in the day ~ in hot conditions my truck will drive weird momentarily ~ as though the engine is dead when giving it gas from a stop when the light turns green & sometimes when rolling 'n foot off throttle then giving it gas... In those hot driving conditions, expect touching your foot to the pedal to cause the (vapor ? locked) engine to catch RPM/Power & give the driveline a hard "CLANK" banging sound, not good... So, I wonder if engineering a carburetor cooling fan is worth the time, trouble & expense, think I'm too lazy & having to spend $$ much on other fixes... No garage but time I have from Staying@Home, Thank You Covid :^))

I think the link below is where I read that vapor lock happens worse now-a-days because alcohol (ethanol) has a lower boiling point than gas... It also said why engines run weird from vapor lock (coz the air/fuel ratio is diluted by vapors instead of the liquid atomized fuel getting into the engine)...

This website was good reading for me ~ it has a lot of info about many issues ~ kinda laymen's down to Earth language:
https://www.liveabout.com/prevent-classic-car-from-overheating-726159

A vanaxial fan that seems to be popular for this very problem:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Attwood-Turbo-3000-Series-In-Line-Bilge-Blower-1731-4/308145195

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/attwood-2856/marine---boat-30733/marine-maintenance-25150/marine---ventilation-19648/605ad320dfc4/attwood-blower/17314/2515766

https://new.attwoodmarine.com/

[xboxrox]

DRY EPOXY RESULTS ~ LOTS-A-SANDING AHEAD
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[geezer101]

The vapour lock thing is a result of not being able to pull a cool/cold air charge from outside of the engine bay. Mitsubishi trucks have an inlet duct on Gen 1's above the right side headlight frame in an attempt to alleviate lack of available dense air to mix for an air/fuel charge. This is why I don't recommend or use open element air intake cleaners. The fact that Toyota still used this forced air charging system means something was up and they didn't have a better fix for the issue. The EFI engine looks like that is nothing more than a standard barrel air cleaner with a MAF sensor in it (Mitsubishi used a similar air cleaner on early to mid 80's cars). I would disconnect the air duct from the inlet and extend it down towards somewhere below the frame rail and aim the end of it towards the front of the truck. The longer air duct increases torque, and being able to pull an air charge from somewhere that isn't getting heat soak from the radiator (hot air travelling up and what-not) should help. You could make the inlet solid using some off-the-shelf pvc plumbing pipe and elbow joins and clamp it down with brackets. Even go the extra mile and maybe wrap it with an insulating tape...

The new carb fix looks like an improvement over the crazy glue patch up. Hopefully you'll put it back together and not have to rework it :thumbup:

[xboxrox]

The vapour lock thing is a result of not being able to pull a cool/cold air charge from outside of the engine bay.The fact that Toyota still used this forced air charging system means something was up and they didn't have a better fix for the issue. You could make the inlet solid using some off-the-shelf pvc plumbing pipe and elbow joins and clamp it down with brackets. Even go the extra mile and maybe wrap it with an insulating tape...

The new carb fix looks like an improvement over the crazy glue patch up. Hopefully you'll put it back together and not have to rework it :thumbup:

Agree; the glue job is not bad; wish now that I would have spent $30 for 3 teaspoons of 600F epoxy + $15 shipping ~ not really but sorta feel it... Actually, the glue joint could be Dremel excavated all around both inner & outer with a "U" groove and filled in with 600F epoxy...
I want my truck to run again...
:rolleyes:

[85Ram50]

Looks Good Xboxrox. If it helps you psychologically, those brass fittings will have been epoxied in as well unless they were placed in the mould the resin was poured in. Don't worry be happy :)

[xboxrox]

Looks Good Xboxrox. If it helps you psychologically, those brass fittings will have been epoxied in as well unless they were placed in the mould the resin was poured in. Don't worry be happy :)

There are 3 holes involved in the repair glue joint 1) the corner screw hole for accel pmp attachment 2) hole for fuel passage into the bottom of the large brass fitting 3) a factory epoxy filled hole

Hole #2 will need excess epoxy removed by drilling it out
Hole #3 new epoxy penetrated a depth of 1/4" and it provides strength like a pin

Am hoping the carb still on the truck is same as the original but if not then I just might have to try using the pricy 600°F expoxy in a "U" shaped groove all around the joint...

Hoping to recv hose pinch clamp set within 5 more days -- then I can begin removing the problem carby...

Keepin Happy @ Home :)

[xboxrox]

PROGRESS W/O PICTURES ~

Not too productive today, wanted to work on removing the bad carby tonight but a tired helper/safety watch wifey & a cranky security guard put a damper on things... O'Reilly's did not have 1/4" I.D. fuel hose but they did have 5/16" so I bought one foot... I pushed pieces of it onto the jaws of my two small vise grips, one is long nose... Practiced using them to pinch off the remaining 6" long section of 5/16" hose and tested with the end in a cup of water... Verdict: no blowing bubbles, the hose pinch vise grip tools work good & I got practice how tight to clamp them... The Harbor Freight clamp set tracking # says they are scheduled to arrive October 10th, they were shipped August 18th, yikes..! Thanks to YouTube for giving me the DIY version to pinch off a fuel hose...

Tomorrow, plan to get 1/4" fuel hose from NAPA, they said they have it, it fits the fuel pump to carby connections... Supply hose from the gas tank to fuel pump is 5/16" don't plan on messing with it; will pinch it only if necessary... I should measure the water connections to the (3..?) places water hose connects to carby & truck before hiking to NAPA... When removing the carburetor, FSM says have a container to catch spilled fuel, maybe a brake bleeder bottle will work for that..? Not sure how much gas, if any, will come out, truck been sitting since June 20th... Hope the carby fuel bowl is dry by now..?

If there was more that got done today; I forgot what it might-a-been ~ On TV today, Honolulu Mayor Kirk Caldwell extended the Stay@Home quarantine another 14 days :rolleyes:

[xboxrox]

PROGRESS @ TONIGHT ~

:fire: SOMEONE TOOK MY TRUCK'S CARBURETOR..! I DID :grin: RIGHT UP & OUT TO THE LANAI TO AIR OUTSIDE FOR THE NIGHT... TOMORROW MIGHT PLAY WITH TURNING IT UPSIDE DOWN & PULL A VACUUM ON THE FUEL INLET TO SEE IF THE NEEDLE SEAT HOLDS (IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN THE SOURCE OF FLOODING) ALSO DMM THE TPS ADJUSTMENT READINGS... THE BIG REVEAL IS GONNA BE IF THE PHENOLIC BODY IS A MATCH & NOT BROKEN... WRENCHING IS NOT MY CUP OF TEA ANYMORE, TOO OLD & TOO TIRED OF PANDEMIC LOCKUP... I JUST HOPE WE GET OUR GROCERY GETTER BACK IN ACTION BEFORE THE WIFE BREAKS AN ARM CARRYING GROCERIES HOME... PICS:
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[geezer101]

I was going to say whoever stole your carburettor - "sucks to be them!", but they'd probably sent it back to you through your windscreen :rolleyes: The pandemic is getting a lot of people edgy so stay calm and keep your head down. Throw the security guard a donut and he might leave you alone while you're in the carpark. You owe your parole officer a dinner out once you get the truck going (least you can offer her for her patience :thumbup:)

[xboxrox]

FAILURE IS SUCCESS ~

JUST NOW TESTED THE PROBLEM MIKUNI J/Y CARBURETOR & IT FAILED BIGLY :thumbup: THE NEEDLE/SEAT HOLDS VACUUM ABOUT HALF THE TIME OUT OF TEN VACUUM PULLS ON THE FUEL INLET NIPPLE WITH THE CARB UPSIDEDOWN TO CAUSE THE FLOAT TO RISE IN THE FUEL BOWL...

MAKES ME WONDER WHY THE GOOD LOOKING TRUCK IT CAME OFF WAS TAKEN TO THE JUNK YARD..?

[xboxrox]

PHOTO STORY OF TODAY'S PROGRESS ~
NEED TO SALVAGE AND USE THE PHENOLIC BODY FROM THIS 1985 CARB TO GRAFT ONTO THE CARB PARTS OF MY 1986 ORIGINAL MIKUNI ~ I'M JUST GONNA LEAVE THE MYSTERY PART STAY IN IF IT WON'T COME OUT, DON'T WANNA CRACK OR BREAK THE PHENOLIC BODY... GOT TECHRON IN THE FUEL BOWL & ON THE TOP OF THE STUCK PART, MAYBE THE SOAK WILL FREE IT..? ANYONE HAPPEN TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THIS MYSTERY PART..?

KEEPING SAFE -- :thumbup:http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25731&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25732&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25733&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25734&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25735&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25736&stc=1

[xboxrox]

PROGRESS PHOTOS TODAY ~ 2ND BATCH
GOT THE MYSTERY PART REMOVED AND CLEANED THE REPLACEMENT PENOLIC THROTTLE BODY ~ SOMETIME SOON WILL BEGIN ASSEMBLY OF A COMPLETE CARBURETOR (fingers X'd)
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[85Ram50]

:)):thumbup:

[geezer101]

The mystery part is yet another check valve. If you turn it upside down it restricts the gallery through it so will either shut off fuel. The engine could theoretically still pull adequate fuel through the accelerator pump to keep it running if you end up on your lid. Man, someone was rough with pulling this carb apart in the past...

[xboxrox]

Whew, almost 6 hours since my last post..! I can understand someone getting a belly full of carburetor work & banging on it, too tedious for my liking..! My wife is trying to get the 2nd super tiny O ring on the mystery check valve, she just got it after 20 minutes of frustration... Good thing we had a carburetor to cannibalize; lost the original float hinge pin... Noticed the J/Y carb float hinge pin fits snug but on my carburetor it fits loose like the one we lost also fit loose... Must be the phenolic body keeps it from falling out, it's really loose... Had to put the needle seat in twice to get the correct shim for float level... In doing so, could not follow FSM instructions to grab it by A not B area, hopefully the needle will not hang up on a burr..? That might be why the J/Y carb needle seat would not open & close dependably..? The float adjustment was way off on it too, fuel level very high I imagine...

Thanks for Reading & Supporting especially solving the mystery, thanks geezer...

[tortron]

yeah float pins are usually loose as in my experience. but once installed the body stops them coming out

[xboxrox]

yeah float pins are usually loose as in my experience. but once installed the body stops them coming out

Thanks tortron, you made me feel like a :burgerking:

[xboxrox]

MAJOR DISCOVERY ~ PROGRESS ~ :thumbup:

?? DISCOVERED ?? WHY OUR TRUCK WON'T START & DIED A SLOW DEATH TO THAT POINT ~ THE CARBURETOR FLOAT IS ABOUT 1/5 to 1/4 FULL OF FLUID, I JUST NOW GAVE IT A SHAKE... I LOOKED AT THE NEEDLE & SEAT, THEY BOTH LOOKED PERFECT... FUEL BOWL WAS DRY WHEN WE PULLED THE CARB TWO DAYS AGO; SO I BET THAT FLOAT COULD HAVE HAD EVEN MORE FUEL INSIDE AS IT WAS RIDING SLOSHING WAVES OF GAS..? JUST VACUUM TESTED THE NEW NEEDLE & SEAT 'n FLOAT ASSEMBLY ON MY REBUILD FRANKENSTEIN; PASSES EVERY TIME :^) ALSO APPLIED 12 VOLTS TO BOTH THE J/Y BVV ELECTROMAGNET & MY ORIGINAL; THE ORIGINAL HAS A LITTLE STRONGER PULL & IT WILL GET USED IN THE MONSTER... PLAYED PUZZLE WITH TOP & BOTTOM THROTTLE BODY GASKETS; ALMOST GOT TRICKED BY MINOR THROTTLE BORE SIZE DIFFERENCES... MIKES'S CARBURETORS SUPPLIED FILTER https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Mikuni-Solex_c_28.html

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[geezer101]

Nice sleuth work xbox :thumbup: The fuel float full of crusty fuel - not so good...

[85Ram50]

Bummer they don't include a new float in the rebuild kit. They do with Weber and the one I got for my motorcycle. I thought they did with all kits.

[xboxrox]

Bummer they don't include a new float in the rebuild kit. They do with Weber and the one I got for my motorcycle. I thought they did with all kits.

I bought a replacement float from RA 'n it would probably work but it's a rather different configuration & as such, the float level measurement is taken a completely different way than the factory method (strange...) but I'm using my original float... It's a darn good thing member yamahauler sent me an FSM & member 4cylinders sent me a Mikuni carburetor in parts and a darn good thing parts puller Allen in Roseville, CA sent me the PicknPull 1985 California emissions Mikuni ~ without all these spare parts and a 2nd Mikuni carburetor; I do believe it would have been somewhere between tremendously difficult & darn near impossible for me to rebuild the Mikuni carburetor... With little to no practice and having to wait several months for parts, the memory fades with the large amount of time between disassembly & reassembly... There are four letter words that describe the situation better than my story above..!

BACKGROUND NOTES:
1) Leaking float & improper float adjustment caused flooding of an otherwise nicely rebuilt Mikuni (PicknPull carb)
2) My original Mikuni was a one barrel carb, not anymore, if it runs, it should work as a 2 barrel carby
3) My advice about carburetors, buy a rebuilt Mikuni 'n bolt it on OR modify with a new Weber (in that order..!)
4) Unless you have parts, tools, patience & experience, rebuilding the Mikuni is not my recommendation...
5) Is it just me..? Or, will the ball bearing in the fuel bowl drop out of place if the carb is turned upsidedown..?
6) In regards to #5 above (if yes) then the carburetor top needs removal again..! Yikes..!
7) In regards to #5 & #6 above; does the float prevent the large ball bearing from falling out of place..?
8) How would a person (perform a test) to get the answer in regard to #5, #6 and #7 above..?

Get the Wife to do the Work..? :grin:

[geezer101]

Bummer they don't include a new float in the rebuild kit. They do with Weber and the one I got for my motorcycle. I thought they did with all kits.

You don't get a choke release assist diaphragm (there are a few different types which is helpful too...) and some kits don't even have the accelerator pump diaphragm and gaskets in them (straight up useless as they are prone to failing). A 100% overhaul kit would have a new secondary actuator servo, a wax pellet for the choke, the choke assist and gaskets for 3 different 32-35DIDTA carb variants and the replacement fuel bowl float (say hi to a $500 rebuild kit) but they don't make them as nobody would buy them :)

[FMS88]

I bought a replacement float from RA 'n it would probably work but it's a rather different configuration & as such, the float level measurement is taken a completely different way than the factory method (strange...) but I'm using my original float.

BACKGROUND NOTES:
5) Is it just me..? Or, will the ball bearing in the fuel bowl drop out of place if the carb is turned upsidedown..?
6) In regards to #5 above (if yes) then the carburetor top needs removal again..! Yikes..!
7) In regards to #5 & #6 above; does the float prevent the large ball bearing from falling out of place..?
8) How would a person (perform a test) to get the answer in regard to #5, #6 and #7 above..?

I have a Hygrade FL87 float that's of no use to me. It's yours if you want it.
Regarding the ball in the float chamber, it sits in the channel in the bottom of the chamber shown in the first picture of your first post on 9/11/20. The ball is kept in the channel by two stamped strips of metal held in place by the two pins and screw/washer at mid-bottom of the chamber. In the event your grocery run takes a disastrous and unexpected turn, the ball pushes on either of the metal strips which in turn contacts the float stopping the fuel flow. I wouldn't worry about omitting the ball and definitely delete it if you don't have the metal strips. I've disassembled several remanufactured carbs and none of them had the ball and metal strips. Unless you do some serious 4-wheeling, omit it. Probability is in your favor.

[xboxrox]

Thanks fellahs for all this seriously helpful information... :thumbup:

We almost got to the point of connecting the battery for a try at starting the truck last night... :thumbup:

UNTIL I tried placing the air cleaner rubber gasket on the carb; it was missing the ring 'n 2 screws... :thumbdown:

Hiked back to the room to get the ring and Oh Boy, it felt like I just received some really bad news... :thumbdown:

There in my parts basket were parts #68, #69 and #70 for both primary & secondary throttles..! :yellow1:

At least we did not contaminate things with gasoline or coolant... :thumbup:

It won't require a complete teardown but the carb top piece needs to come off again; I made a note of 5 other things to do as well... :thumbup:

See, Stop is Good Progress..! :rolleyes:

Of special interest to me was finding a bunch of gooey electrical silicone inside the female half of the TPS connector... THIS might be the cause of weird engine running, hope so... Will clean it out even more on our 2nd carb install try...

Best part of last night was neither me nor wife got upset about the forgotten parts discovery ~ she complimented me for not getting angry & said it's your 1st try @ fixing this Mikuni thing, no surprise you made a mistake... Just don't drink too much beer when working on it, OK..?

Confession Complete & Staying Safe 'n Smoke Free in Hawaii --
Aloha George

[xboxrox]

I have a Hygrade FL87 float that's of no use to me. It's yours if you want it.
Regarding the ball in the float chamber, it sits in the channel in the bottom of the chamber shown in the first picture of your first post on 9/11/20. The ball is kept in the channel by two stamped strips of metal held in place by the two pins and screw/washer at mid-bottom of the chamber. In the event your grocery run takes a disastrous and unexpected turn, the ball pushes on either of the metal strips which in turn contacts the float stopping the fuel flow. I wouldn't worry about omitting the ball and definitely delete it if you don't have the metal strips. I've disassembled several remanufactured carbs and none of them had the ball and metal strips. Unless you do some serious 4-wheeling, omit it. Probability is in your favor.

I got the exact same float as a replacement but will stick with the original float, thanks FMS88...

[85Ram50]

That is probably Di-electric grease which is meant to prevent oxidation and connectivity breakdown that comes with as you probably know :)
You are doing better than I would.

[xboxrox]

That is probably Di-electric grease which is meant to prevent oxidation and connectivity breakdown that comes with as you probably know :)
You are doing better than I would.

Nah no better, I seen your work methods 85RAM :thumbup:

That dialectric grease is weird, the label says it conducts electricity... A good thing for turn signal & stop light bulbs BUT no so good on spark plug wires or computer control sensors... It can foul up the TPS signals to the computer...

LIVE & LEARNING ME

[geezer101]

Yeah you need the opposite like lanolin grease. I created an ignition problem by using a conductive grease on my spark plug boots - it misfired like it was possessed :doh:

[claych]

xbox,
With respects I need to correct some of Your info.
Dielectric grease is not conductive, as such if a sensor connector is filled with same there is a good chance
sensor input, ground, or v/ref could be skewed. ( sensor circuits are 5v & usually <.005 ampere ).
As far as plug boot usage , all I ever used was dielectric , 20 plus years as dealership driveability tech
literally hundreds of plug and wire changes.
Perhaps the tube label your looking at is 'thermal grease' ?
Thx.

[xboxrox]

xbox,
With respects I need to correct some of Your info.
Dielectric grease is not conductive, as such if a sensor connector is filled with same there is a good chance
sensor input, ground, or v/ref could be skewed. ( sensor circuits are 5v & usually <.005 ampere ).
As far as plug boot usage , all I ever used was dielectric , 20 plus years as dealership driveability tech
literally hundreds of plug and wire changes.
Perhaps the tube label your looking at is 'thermal grease' ?
Thx.

Yes I better read that label again -- I bought the large dispening tube and used a big glob of it in the spark plug boots 2 years ago when installing new wires & plugs -- the engine ran like crap after that -- ?? So after I cleaned off the dielectric grease it ran good like it had new plugs & wires... On the carb TPS (throttle position sensor) I remember injecting a big glob of it into the TPS connector after Vernon had super glued my original carb's cracked phenolic body... On startup the truck ran crappy not smooth like before -- next was gas still leaking bad glue for gas -- rcvd J/Y carb & installed the truck ran weird crappy still BUT NO gas leaks -- so, I'm gonna try paint thinner to clean out that goop as electrical contact cleaner spray & wiping does not get it out -- I want it clean NO GOOP when we try starting it with this rebuilt carb --

My Lenovo T61 laptop has FAN ERROR -- so soon I will try my hand at electronics rebuilding
:lmao:

[85Ram50]

I remember injecting a big glob of it Well there's your problem.
It is meant to be a light coat. Using it on plugs if there is too much it can cause the plug wire to pop off the plug from fully seated and ditto the distributor cap. Yes it happened to me.

[xboxrox]

REBUILT MIKUNI INSTALLED :thumbup:

Engine cranked but no pop sputter or trying to start -- I hope the battery will have enuff omph left to try with starting fluid... I remember mechanics getting this truck running when we 1st bought it -- sprayed starter fluid & cranked a bunch of times before it finally began to fire... I think they even dumped some gas in the carb...

[xboxrox]

Well there's your problem.
It is meant to be a light coat. Using it on plugs if there is too much it can cause the plug wire to pop off the plug from fully seated and ditto the distributor cap. Yes it happened to me.

You're right on both counts -- it is non conductive & directions say use sparingly -- I thought dielectric grease would improve a connection but it does just the opposite... I injected a pea size amount of it into the spark plug boot BUT I'm going back in to remove it to achieve a better electrical connection to the spark plugs...

[xboxrox]

Rebuilt Mikuni installed but truck won't start or act like it wants to start... Used tablespoon of gas or 3 seconds spray of starter fluid one or the other 8 good tries..! Battery cranking good & good spark at the plugs... Eng front cover has marks 10BTDC 0 10ATDC -- no mark or notch on crankshaft pullys... Will have to remove # 1 spark plug & find TDC on compression stroke... <--- how is that done without removing rocker arm cover..? Thumb on sparkplug hole or buy a compression gauge..? Truck not running or started for 3 months, maybe it needs oil fog sprayed into the cylinders not just for lube but to ensure having compression..?

We will be very sad to let this truck go... But we need transportation not a never ending class in auto mechanics with us supplying the school with tools...
:thumbdown:

[85Ram50]

The mark on the balancer is one line full width, indented. You might be able to feel it if you cannot see it. I mark mine with a silver sharpie when I need to see it. Is gas pumping through the carb?
To find TDC I use a tissue to watch as I turn for the compression stroke. It will blow the tissue, then I put a screwdriver in the plug hole and hold it loosely. When the piston gets to the top it will start to go down and you will feel it. There ya go.

[xboxrox]

Thank you 85Ram50 the tissue idea is trick, I don't think my 3/8 socket set will fit the crank bolt, so I either learn how to use a screwdriver to short the starter selenoid wires or use the ignition key -- I don't plan on spending $25.00 for O'Reilly to sell me a remote starter switch... OReillys is charging my battery now, the battery has plenty power this is just extra step -- I don't know if the fuel pump has gotten fuel to the carb -- I thought after checking ign timing that I would remove the carb fuel supply hose from the fuel pump barb -- I rented a compression tester from O'Reillys and bought a spray can of fogger fogging oil -- the cylinders could use some lube I bet & as well as checking ign timing might as well do a compression test -- there might be more to this than a previously flooding carb -- ? -- if the balancer has a line to mark TDC I will be super suprised nothing there

[85Ram50]

I think the crank is a 17mm. If you are removing the plugs any wrench that opens big enough will work, it turns pretty easily with the plugs out. My 3/8 drive turns it easily. A remote starter or bumping the starter will move it to far too fast. I should have stated TDC Compression stroke, as there is the exhaust stroke 180 out that will feel the same so making sure the rotor is pointing at #1 helps. It ran so you could not have been too far out when you parked it. I thought you just wanted to improve annoying things it did because of the carb being old. You need more then a few teaspoons of gas. At least use tablespoons. :)

[camoit]

I always just put the truck in reverse gear and released the parking brake. Then pushed on the bumper with my knee to rotate the engine over.
if the truck has a belt. The timing mark is below the flat of the head. Many people get it off 1 tooth because they go off the flat of the head.


http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25776&stc=1

[xboxrox]

I need these details, thanks guys... The timing mark I'm searching for is on the fan belt pulley somwhere, this truck has two V belts alt & pwr steering -- I'm gonna look at the pulley lip closest to the engine (Dr. geezer's advice)

Darn, my resident apt mgr just texted me if I got the truck running yet or if I wanted to sell it..? Howz that for moral support..?
Going now to get my fully charged Interstate battery -- O'Reillys charged it for free... They have a $26.00 + tax remote start switch -- now I'm confused if it will help me spin the engine with spark plugs removed to inject the fogging oil I bought yesterday -- all this extra stuff is beyond just starting the engine after a carb rebuild BECAUSE before we got it parked back at the apt Vernon could not get it to start & neither could Sam @ his Windward Muffler repair shop -- not any responce even with good spark starter fluid & gas stopped on carb -- something is amiss -- Dr. geezer has a few more things for me to check as well
ALOHA George :shrug:

Ign timing check
Spark plug wire routing check
Compression test
Test each spark plug separately for firing
Check proper fuel line connect to carb
Check gas tank level -- dash gauge reads 3/8
Remove fuel pump to carb inlet hose to check if fuel pump is pumping gas
Yada Yada Yada
What then if still NO RESPONCE when trying to start..? Just fishing for more ideas that hopefully won' t be needed in the near future...

[claych]

xboxrox,
Remove the fuel inlet line to the carburetor, fab up a remote reservoir & hose, attach to inlet--- fill the float bowl ---

Pump pedal thrice ,start & report back.

Thx

[85Ram50]

I misled you Xbox. I was picturing my Dakota when I told you about the mark. Here is a picture of mine. The white spot is the notch on the inner pulley closest to the timing belt cover. It is a notch so you should be able to feel it.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25777&stc=1

[xboxrox]

Not mislead 85RamGuy ~ "perfect timing" (pun intended) as I should get to the point of finding it today -- I got my battery back from OReillys, they charged it but said: "it FAILED the load test, might have a bad cell..." My computer died the FAN ERROR fatal startup failure & can't upload photo from my phone SO THANKS A BUNCH for this photo you sent... I broke down 'n bought the remote start switch a dang cheapo innova Made - in - :count:

[geezer101]

Yeah, setting the timing on a G63B/4G64 is a little easier than the 4G52/4G54 as you can see everything. You have spark - this is the hardest hurdle to overcome on a no start engine. Checking the timing is a PITA if you can't see marks but seeming you haven't pulled the head off or replaced the chain, you at least know nothing has changed there.

[xboxrox]

THX geezer man -- got the battery installed & connected the innova remote start switch to the starter seleniod terminals S small terminal & B large terminal lead to battery and the starter motor would spin but did not engage the flywheel -- taking a break now -- going down to work on the truck in a few minutes -- 1st thing I wanna try is cranking the engine using the ignition key -- if the engine don't crank I will be very disappointed -- my battery cranked the engine strongly before getting it charged -- I just wanted to make sure it was fully charged after sitting 3 months -- it cranked the engine very well yesterday
End Rant

EDIT: The remote starter switch is cranking the engine ok now ~ with key in OFF position engine only cranks ~ with key in ON position spark goes to the spark plugs ~ tested all plugs, they are getting orange colored spark

[xboxrox]

Found the pulley timing mark & found a major problem -- can you guess. ?

All four spark plug wires were in the wrong spot on the dist cap ~ all off by 90 degrees..! :rolleyes:

[xboxrox]

IT STARTED & IT RUNS :cheers:

VIDEO of the startup: https://youtu.be/zzV380LVKFM

[geezer101]

Fuel hose orientation? Fuel cut solenoid on the carb not connected? No fuel - at all? Distributor 174 and 3/4 degrees out? :shrug:

[xboxrox]

geezer ~ once I get my laptop computer fixed I can post a photo story ~ photos from my phone are not accepted for posting here... The wife happened to get a not too great short video of the sucessful startup ~ phone can't upload it either ~ all the more reason to try fixing my old puter...

Finding that pulley timing mark was the key to unlocking the mystery ~ it was strange because original problem was flooding then turned into an ignition timing problem ~ kinda like trying to discover a flu or covid vaccine but the darn virus keeps mutating ~ the truck was having mutating problems (too many hands touching stuff over 'n over )

More later & Mucho Gracias to all you MR50 Whizards :thumbup:

[85Ram50]

can you edit photos on your phone? If so reduce them to 800x600.

[xboxrox]

can you edit photos on your phone? If so reduce them to 800x600.
Yes I can & have but they don't upload here...

[xboxrox]

Dead truck towed home for a 3 month bed rest before a Mikuni heart transplant ~ https://youtu.be/Z4d6O2W-dsY

1st starup & running, too much fogging oil, sounds like WWII fighter plane startup ~
https://youtu.be/zzV380LVKFM

2nd startup it's still fighting fogging oil ~
https://youtu.be/oOPcH3FYD54

3rd startup WWII Merlin engine sound ~ https://youtu.be/GYcKdK7hmEo

Notice the oil stain under the steering gear area in the 2nd startup vid

:)) :thumbup:

[85Ram50]

:)):thumbup:
Before I started "fixing" on my truck it started first time by just pressing the gas pedal once then cranking it. 2 seconds of cranking and it was running.
Your second vid is unavailable.

[xboxrox]

:)):thumbup:
Before I started "fixing" on my truck it started first time by just pressing the gas pedal once then cranking it. 2 seconds of cranking and it was running.
Your second vid is unavailable.

Links updated & working now :thumbup:

[85Ram50]

8 days later how is it doing Xboxrox?

[xboxrox]

8 days later how is it doing Xboxrox?

Sitting parked & waiting for timing light, laser tach and vacuum/pressure gauge test kit to arrive from Summit Racing -- ordered @ eBay a new throttle cable from seller in Greece -- have appointment for the annual State Safety Inspection tomorrow (no smog checks in Hawaii) received the hose pinch clamp set from Harbor Freight -- have thought about reassembling the J/Y Mikuni carb to visually inspect it's adjustment screw settings because other than leaking float that caused the no start, it ran well and had good slow idle -- should also inspect & measure it's idle mixture screw hole since the tamper plug is gone (might drill out the plug in the 86 carb to chase the high idle speed problem) Also gotta rechech TPS readings at idle & WOT and adjust if needed...

Hurry up and wait for now (one SR box arrived just now, vacuum gauge ?) -- maybe get motivated to epoxy my busted throttle cable -- working on the truck is like being a prisoner at night trying to dig an escape hole -- no vehicle work allowed in the buildings garage -- resident mgr & a few cranky security guards limit what can be done during the night

ALOHA & THANKS FOR ASKING

[85Ram50]

:thumbup:

[geezer101]

Once it gets a leg over the fence it runs like a top ;) The broken throttle cable is annoying. It would be at this point I'd either substitute a cable or grind the shoulder off the broken cable and squeeze clamp a tube/pipe collar over it to hold it together and use the existing bracket on the carb to hold it down. Tip - HD mountain bike brake cables make great throttle cable replacements - just add a brass locking barrel on the pedal end once you have everything cut and routed.

[xboxrox]

Seems bicycle parts work pretty good on these Mitsubishi overgrown lawn mower engines :grin: my carb has a bike shop provided ball bearing in the sub egr he he... geezer your Macgyver skills are top notch & often become my Plan B :thumbup:

Tried to Safety Check the truck today but failed at that too :thumbdown: seems I tossed my old USAA Proof of Insurance too soon when I got the new one as it won't apply until Oct 7th which means I can't legally drive right now hmmm... On a positive note, tach & vacuum gauge arrived yesterday & timing light should arrive tomorrow... Although, I'm rather NOT motivated to tinker with our toy truck... Must be a sign of old age... Soon as we fix a computer I can post some pretty photos again, looking forward to that...
Staying Safe
MASKED MECHANIC IN TRAINING :wavegreen:

[85Ram50]

S:thumbdown: seems I tossed my old USAA Proof of Insurance too soon when I got the new one as it won't apply until Oct 7th which means I can't legally drive right now hmmm...

Don't they have a computerized system in Hawaii? Cops used to give people tickets in CA and I expect other states when they did not have a physical copy of their insurance card on them. Turns out they knew the truth one way or the other as the state Licensing system gets an automatic notice from your insurer before you even get the card in the mail they already know you are paid up. Anyway someone caught one and it they put a stop to writing tickets for no card if the computer records indicated you were paid up. You are still supposed to have one on you. Seems like that should also be true over there.

[geezer101]

We have a similar issue here in Oz. South Australia did away with registration labels which allegedly saved owners money on their registration but the cops from the former democratic state of Viktorya ambushed anyone crossing the border with SA plates for failing to have valid registration details on them and fining them for having 'unregistered vehicles' (yes, they have access to the database but that takes time and effort blah blah...) The added bonus is they chose to launch their sting on a long weekend when there was an AFL grand final being held in the body cavity known as Melbourne. Cops were racking up revenue like they were printing money. Now everyone has wizened up and has DMV printed receipts on them.

Fun tip - I have been told that if you receive a fine interstate, pay an extra dollar. Apparently it screws up their system and they are unable finalise the infringement records (heard it drives the cops nuts lol)

[xboxrox]

Hawaii is the (only) or one of the only (USAA phone rep said: "ONLY") state that requires the Driver's Proof of Insurance I.D. card to be printed on the USAA Companies special paper with company golden watermark logos... A copy is not a valid I.D. Card and all copies sent via email & other ways are PDF saying in bold letters: "NOT A VALID PROOF OF INSURANCE" the only way to get a replacement card with golden logo paper is via SNAIL MAIL... So might as well just wait; have driven less than 20 miles total since June anyway :wtf:

Watching our Presidential Debate took away all desire to fix anything -- so me and wifey had a nice walk outside this evening :thumbup:

[85Ram50]

My point was that the state has a record making the enforcement of the requirement to have a card on you a bit dishonest.

[xboxrox]

My point was that the state has a record making the enforcement of the requirement to have a card on you a bit dishonest.

Agreed ~ for the lawmakers they have a lot a B.S. ways to get more revenue ~ I'm pretty sure the min fine for not having the ins I.D. card is $500.00 even tho the police officer can see on his computer everything there is to know about your insurance coverage... I got ticketed once in Seattle for improper display of registration once ($75.00 ish?) even tho the policeman said I can tell your registration is current and paid... I had forgotten to put the little year sticker on the car's rear license plate...
:))

[xboxrox]

Truck sits unused while waiting for drivers insurance I.D. card effective date to begin Oct 7th -- recvd timing light vacuum gauge laser tach to help tune the engine and lower idle speed -- no working on vehicles parked here at the apartment garage
:))

[xboxrox]

Hey everyone -- truck passed safety inspection & runs but uses A LOT OF FUEL; it idles about 900 RPM -- the distributor vacuum advance not working the actuator diaphragm gave up the ghost -- plugging the vacuum hose did not lower the idle speed -- O'Reilly's has a Acardone rebuilt dist on island $154.00 -- Anyone know if these distributors have mechanical advance in addition to vacuum advance? Time to as Scotty Kilmer would say get your timing light & REV UP YOUR ENGINES -- except it too might be broke ($÷<^%:35/)

eBay has a 1984 D50 W engine dist vacuum actuator that looks similar dunno if it might work on my 1986 truck?

I rebuilt my Mikuni carb and am thinking to just stop trying to become a mechanic -- initial ignition timing now set @ 8° BTDC -- fiddling with carb adjustment screws no help so far --

Day 2 of opening tourism and Kailua beach is busy again, I wonder about Waikiki ? Last night saw two couples get cited on the beach by police on ATVs <--- ? Why I DUNNO ??
:grinno:

[xboxrox]

Fuel hose orientation? Fuel cut solenoid on the carb not connected? No fuel - at all? Distributor 174 and 3/4 degrees out? :shrug:

Spark plug wires on the dist cap were all off by 90 degrees of timing, sheeesh..! :rolleyes:

[xboxrox]

UPDATE: The truck currently starts & runs good, idle speed a little high by 100 RPM or so (but not always?) ~ got my laptop fixed & can upload photos now ~ used laser tach, timing light & hand vacuum pump to discover a new problem, the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm began leaking, did not advance the ignition timing ~ tested the mechanical advance, it works ok...

1) Replaced the dist vacuum advance actuator & tested vacuum advance, works good...
2) Changed engine oil twice & added polymer-ester additive to prolong life of flat tappets ~ no more noisy tappets

NOTE: Telltale sign of a vacuum leak on my truck is the brake pedal ~ the power feel of power brakes is deminished enuff to feel in the foot...

REBUILT MIKUNI PHOTOS

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26046&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26047&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26048&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26049&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26050&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26051&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26052&stc=1
NOTICE ANYTHING MISSING ON THIS CARBURETOR PHOTO (?) LUCKILY FIXED IT BEFORE CONNECTING FUEL & COOLANT :^) COULD NOT GET THE AIR CLEANER TO FIT ON THE CARB & WHEN I WENT TO GET THE MISSING PLATE & GASKET, NOTICED I ALSO FORGOT TO INSTALL BOTH THROTTLE VENTURIES OMG..!

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26054&stc=1

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25855&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25856&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25857&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25858&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25859&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25860&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25861&stc=1

NEW VACUUM ADVANCE PHOTOS

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25862&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25863&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25864&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25865&stc=1

GETTING GROCERIES PHOTO

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25866&stc=1

Thank you all @ MightyRam50 ~ could not have done this without a whole lotta help from a lotta you members..!

:layrubber:

[xboxrox]

Fuel hose orientation? Fuel cut solenoid on the carb not connected? No fuel - at all? Distributor 174 and 3/4 degrees out? :shrug:

LATE RESPONSE ~ Spark plug wires in the wrong position on the distributor cap ~ all off one space 90 degrees

[xboxrox]

???
Apologies,I have not seen brass plugs on any Thermoquad .
???

Just browsing this old thread & think it is ball bearings epoxied into the cross drilled holes of the Mikuni...

[claych]

^
Me too, a reference was made to 'ALL' carburators using brass plugs for the 'rifle drilled' passages.
The statement is in error!!!
Oh, xbox,
My '88 with the P.O.S. Jap/French bastardized compromise engine control system ---
1) was supposed to be 'lean burn' (jet valve)
2) was supposed to be 'altitude compensating' -brain dead T/P & O/2 interpolation maps
3)was supposed to provide > 29 MPG , < 2.9K RPM

[xboxrox]

claych ~ yeah, I know what you mean..! I thought the 1986 carb'd trucks were the ultimate pain until I saw diagrams of the 87 'n later Gen2 carbs & engine bay of vacuum hoses -- I bet assembly line workers enjoyed slapping all that stuff together..! LOL 29MPG hmmm..?

[samram]

Glad you didn't catch covid

[xboxrox]

Glad you didn't catch covid

LOL the masks ~ so far not sick but pricked 3 times :thumbdown: