Nick the new guy

[88dodgeram50]

Hey guys I’m new to this forum. I just picked up an old Ram 50 that hasn’t ran in 10 years. I’ve changed the oil, plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap, air filter, and the drive belt. I have a new fuel pump and filter on order since it turns over but doesn’t start. I drained the tank and ran some through to make sure it wasn’t funny and old. What is the best way to run air through the lines to make sure they aren’t clogged? Thank you in advance. I look forward to hearing from you guys. Btw names not nick. Lol it’s Robert

[geezer101]

Hi and welcome to mightyram, If you aren't getting fuel at the carb end, check your fuel lines. I have had a main fuel line clog from getting a surge of sediment from the bottom of a fuel tank that had been sitting for a really long time. Using compressed air from the engine bay end of the solid line will unclog it but make sure the gas tank cap is off. Next is to drop the fuel tank and flush it out with fresh fuel and use an inspection light inside of it. The tanks do rust out from time to time but if you live in a dry, dusty area the bottom of the tank 'can' (I have no idea how but it does happen...) collect a lot of sediment. Don't blow compressed air through the breather line without disconnecting it from the tank end first (you shouldn't need to touch the breather/vapour line as the odds of it blocking are literally zilch). Next is basic tests like spark and timing. If you have fuel, spark, the timing marks are set correctly + distributor is timed in, it should show signs of life. No spark could mean a bad ICM in the distributor, a dead coil or someone has messed with it in the past and screwed up the wiring (always fun to diagnose) or it can be something as simple as crossing the spark plug leads.

[88dodgeram50]

thank you Geezer. I will check TDC when I replace the fuel pump, the manual says all plugs need to be removed. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to pick up some testing tools. This is my first recovery project. I haven’t checked timing yet. The truck ran until it was parked and left for 10+ years. I’m hoping for too much for it to be simple it seems. Thank you for your advice as well.

[Salteen]

Yes seems like a tank/pump issue. The 87 had an electric carb, idk what it does bit I would check it. I counted 17 vacuum hoses from the carb, I would check all those (is in necessary?) But anyways, I would pour some tranny fluid down the cylinder chambers if it doesnt turn, then I would get that gas issue fixed. You may not even get to turn it over with the starter, I would replace it. If its 4x4 it's pretty easy just remove your inner fender and voila! Ots a matter of getting a 10' wrench for leverage and you're set.

[FMS88]

If you have fuel and spark but it won't start, do a compression test. Rust or dried out lubricants can make starting an engine after years of sitting difficult. Ideally you want all cylinders to be 150 or better, but it might start if all are 125-130 or better. If lower, or one or two cylinders are very low, that may explain why it was parked. In that case deal with the compression issues before spending much time and money on peripherals. Fortunately you're in a drier climate zone, so hopefully rust is not an issue.

[88dodgeram50]

Yes seems like a tank/pump issue. The 87 had an electric carb, idk what it does bit I would check it. I counted 17 vacuum hoses from the carb, I would check all those (is in necessary?) But anyways, I would pour some tranny fluid down the cylinder chambers if it doesnt turn, then I would get that gas issue fixed. You may not even get to turn it over with the starter, I would replace it. If its 4x4 it's pretty easy just remove your inner fender and voila! Ots a matter of getting a 10' wrench for leverage and you're set.

Thank you salteen. I have a mechanical pump. I will be checking all the lines again for leaks and health. I will update you guys with some pictures and my progress.

[88dodgeram50]

I know I wasn’t getting fuel nothing to the carb, I read in the manual to be careful when blowing air through the lines, I’m going to do what Geezer recommended and go from there. Either way waiting on the new pump and filter.

[Salteen]

I had a pickup tube clogged on my 82, idk how but I have seen 3 cases in my group. Check that please.

[geezer101]

Yeah don't go in there with mad PSI to purge the fuel line. There is supposed to be a small filter on the end of the pick up tube in the tank too. It's not much more than a screen to prevent big bits of debris from getting sucked up. Some of the vacuum lines operate anti pollution, bypass and thermal switches to external components on the engine but be careful what you disconnect. Too many hoses to 'guess' where they go back to if you remove them.

[xboxrox]

Welcome & congrats owning a neat truck... Seafoam for the gasoline tank might help clean things a bit..? I used it once & my truck still runs, ha... Have fun working on your ride & post pics if you would, we like Good Gossip :thumbup:

[88dodgeram50]

Welcome & congrats owning a neat truck... Seafoam for the gasoline tank might help clean things a bit..? I used it once & my truck still runs, ha... Have fun working on your ride & post pics if you would, we like Good Gossip :thumbup:

i just got her out back together after cleaning out and treating the fuel tank. She always had this horrid smell I can’t describe is this due to her sitting for so long? I know I need to get her tuned in since I made adjustments with a faulty tank. Her test drive around the block went well other than high idle.

[tortron]

probably the smell of years of old oil and critters living in it burning off the engine

[88dodgeram50]

That makes sense there was a really good layer of grime, spider webs, and dust in the engine bay and she basically sat on four flat tires for the last 10 years, she was touching the ground in some spots from sinking into the earth, my dad just parked her and let her rot after she wouldn’t pass smog. He regretted it, that’s why he gave her to me he hope I could get her running. Since I got her last Dec. I’ve changed the timing belts, balancer, tensioner, water pump, fuel pump, distributor, plugs, wires, clutch fan, and obvious fluids, battery and tires. I’m hoping to finally get some good use out of her I know I need to get a brake leak figured out. I’m hoping it’s just the reservoir and not the master cylinder.

[geezer101]

You can use a master from another Mitsubishi like a Montero etc or Ford Raider. Do a visual comparison first (mounting bolt width, brake line location etc). I swapped my Gen 1 master cylinder and brake booster with parts from a Gen 3 2.8 TD truck and a Pajero (Aust market Monty). I had to bend the hard lines to re-route them and drill 2 holes through the firewall as the booster bottom bolt holes didn't line up, but at first glance you wouldn't even know.

[88dodgeram50]

You can use a master from another Mitsubishi like a Montero etc or Ford Raider. Do a visual comparison first (mounting bolt width, brake line location etc). I swapped my Gen 1 master cylinder and brake booster with parts from a Gen 3 2.8 TD truck and a Pajero (Aust market Monty). I had to bend the hard lines to re-route them and drill 2 holes through the firewall as the booster bottom bolt holes didn't line up, but at first glance you wouldn't even know.

that’s great news, I’ve seen them in the 150-200 range, that’s a much more affordable option. I really appreciate all the help and advice you guys all give.

[xboxrox]

I replaced my leaking master brake cylinder with NAPA brand, they are NEW not rebuilt & not very expensive

[geezer101]

...and they aren't hard to rebuild either. As long as the master cylinder bore isn't pitted or scored, you can pull them apart pretty easily. Only need a pair of circlip pliers to remove the clip in the end of them.

[tortron]

can get away with a quick hone sometimes too. I had all mine resleeved in stainless steel so the basically last forever now

[88dodgeram50]

Well after her drive around the block I tried to take my wife out. The truck died in the street and will not stay running now. I have someone coming by to lend a hand and hopefully some sound advice. I wish I knew more about this truck. I fear getting too far into something and realizing I may have to manufacture parts. I don’t know if it’s worth it to try and rebuild the carb if it may be faulty. I don’t have the funds for a Weber conversion at the moment.

[xboxrox]

Remove the carburetor fuel bowl cover & turn the float upside down & use a hand vacuum pump to test the needle seat for leakage (youtube has vids) AND measure the float adjustment ~ your engine might be flooding from due to a leaking needle seat valve or flooding due to carb improper float adjustment ~ 1st make sure you have good spark at each plug (remove the spark plugs to test them for spark) compression testers are free to rent @ O'Reilly's

:thumbup:

[88dodgeram50]

I have a compression test kit, the mechanic was able to determine I was just off on the distributor timing spark was good, she is running really good now, I will keep you guys updated on her progress.

[geezer101]

Nice :thumbup: