More of a RE-build Thread [Archive]

blindeyed

04-10-2011, 05:30 PM

[EDIT 10/23/17: I've gone through and fixed all the broken Photobucket image links, and instead have attached the images, so they shouldn't become broken again]

Like the title states, this is more of a repair thread than it is a build thread. Bought this truck for $1400.. over paid, big time. Here she is in all her glory

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And here she sits.. now

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I've been doing nothing but repair it. Previous owner said it ran fine without the MAF hooked up. Assumed it was just a bad MAF, and that's all that needed replacing. Nope.. I've got a can of worms on my hands. Been through 3 of those suckers, no difference in the way it runs. It runs rough and misfires badly. So this is my diagnosis thread of what I've had to do so far to figure this truck out.

Tally list so far:

Swapped out the ECU with another one that functioned fine
New O2 sensor
Swapped out 2 more MAF's.. no change
New distributor cap,wires, and plugs
New fuel filter

There's probably more in there, nothing I can think off off the top of my head right now. I have checked all wires.. fuses.. any connections to see for corrosion. Can't find a thing. Vacuum hoses all looked great, until now since I hacked them up to remove the intake plenum and throttle body. I'm merely going on blind gut feelings now.

Which brings me to my current operation, replacing the fuel injectors with used ones that were on my old truck (which ran fine). I didn't bother testing the injectors to see whether or not they were bad.. I couldn't think of anything else that could be the problem at the time, so I started wrenching away. Got the intake plenum and throttle body off. Didn't realize until afterwards I didn't even need to remove the plenum to get to the fuel rail. Thanks go to the Haynes manual on that one!

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I've got the intake plenum reinstalled. Just waiting on the new O-rings to arrive to continue re-assembly. Apparently no auto parts store here carries on hand the rings that go onto the forward spraying end of the injectors. Think I'm gonna also replace the regulator as well while I've got it right in front of me.

But that's the idea of this thread. I'm going to keep updating it each time I replace or repair something related to this ongoing issue. Once I fix this truck, hopefully this thread might come in handy for someone else having a similar problem. My actual build thread will come once this truck gets running good.

lush90

04-10-2011, 08:57 PM

I swapped a used japanese imported motor into my '91 and it idled fine but ran rough on acceleration, had the injectors cleaned and reinstalled w/ new o rings and it runs great. Are you sure the timing is set correctly? Has the timing belt been changed lately, which could have been an opportunity for the timing to be set incorrectly.

blindeyed

04-10-2011, 09:18 PM

I'm no expert on timing, but from what I could tell it seemed to be lined up correctly. I had to replace the water pump right after I got it because it was leaking. Removed the timing belt to do so and while reassembling it I made sure to not move the crank or the cam. Before I removed it, I set it to TDC. Can't say for sure if the camshaft was lined up perfectly. The timing mark wasn't exactly easy to find. It was really just an educated guess with the help of a crappy Haynes manual.

And since I'm a little terrified of messing with timing, I'm saving the distributor and any timing adjustments for last. I'm worried I'll just mess things up even worse. One of those situations where I would feel more comfortable with an expert looking over my shoulder and teaching me ya know. I've watched dozens of videos and read countless articles on how to set timing.. but nothing was really clearly explained enough for me to grasp.

Weird thing is, when the mass air flow isn't plugged in, the computer goes into "limp" mode and mechanically it will run fine. No misfires, or bogging down at all. But doing so, it will get around 8mpg, and the exhaust manifold starts glowing red hot. After I realized that I parked it. So it's been hard to tell if it's something electronic somewhere (despite all the sensors I've swapped out) or if it's something mechanical related.

4doorciv

04-11-2011, 01:12 AM

Don't loose hope man. I replaced my injector o rings with some grommets at home depot. Way cheaper then the dealership, but this in on a dsm 4g63 in my max. Hope you find the problem soon. Oh, and try to test for fuel pressure and vacuume. A vac leak can lower idle and a big vac leak can cause a really bad stumble to a stall. Similar to the mpi relay acting up causing bad fuel pressure.

blindeyed

04-11-2011, 08:55 PM

Similar to the mpi relay acting up causing bad fuel pressure.
What is this MPI relay you speak of, and where is it located? Haven't heard of it.

Definitely not giving up hope, already did that on my last truck and sold it. This time around, if I gotta replace every bolt on this truck to get it going then so be it.

4doorciv

04-11-2011, 10:25 PM

The mpi relay is the fuel pump relay I believe. I have on on my eclipse wiring harness that is closest to the ecu. I seen one on lsr mike's truck in his picture thread of his buildup. I am not too sure if yours is in the same place though.

blindeyed

04-11-2011, 10:52 PM

Oh ok, that's the relay which I heard was the combination starter/fuel pump relay. It's cranks right up, so I'm assuming it's okay. But knowing my luck with this truck, who knows lol

l.k.

04-12-2011, 05:06 AM

sorry about your tough luck..i would check the timing from every angle man. that is a must. But like 4doorciv said about the infectors. I have had many vehicles that did that and it was the injectors...dirty, clogged, etc.

when its in limp mode..it is just dumping fuel to compensate...thats why bad gas mileage and red hot manifold...its firing so hot, in one cylinder, then the bad injector is getting enough gas since its dumping so harshly. The others that are fine are overloading ...but they are burning some and some is getting sent to cylinders. It can cause vapor lock. all kinds of others problems....'
one time with my blazer it vapor locked and then once burnt a hole in piston....from being too hot when firing with too much gas in limp mode....

good luck

4doorciv

04-12-2011, 02:07 PM

On my eclipse moi relay, it doesn't send a signal to the starter. It actually reciebes a signal from the ignition or starter to actualtr the fuel pump for startup, then the ecu takes over and sends voltage or grounds something to keep it going. There is also a test connector to check fir voltage or can be used to jump the fuel pump to turn it on manually. I am not too sure how similar your wiring harness is but I would check for voltages at the relay and see if they are in specs. Not saying the relay is bad or anything but that relay is important to start and keep the truck running.

l.k.

04-12-2011, 06:34 PM

4doorciv

04-13-2011, 12:53 AM

I researched and researched, and had it all drawn out. I needed certain wires energized by that relay and needed it wired up a certain way to make my dsm truck start and run. It was burned in my head while I was doing the swap, but it's only bits an pieces I remember now.

blindeyed

04-14-2011, 03:00 PM

Finished putting the truck back together, only to receive more disappointment. All new o-rings on the injectors.. All injectors, and fuel rail w/FPR were swapped over from my old truck that ran fine. To make it easier to explain what the problem is, I just went ahead and made a video with my crappy camera. So here, ya go:

[*Sorry, deleted the video*]

It's getting fuel, it can run.. but doesn't. All I can think of is something electrical somewhere is messed up. Sensor, relay.. something. I am so stumped, I have no idea what to do next.

4doorciv

04-14-2011, 03:24 PM

So what did you find out caused the no start problem? I'm glad to hear it started. Well the mpi relay stays energized by the ecu. If not then check your ground connections around the ecu, there should be one at least. If not more. Also make sure the maf is plugged in because that is what senses engine load. The coolant temp sensor also tells the engine how much fuel to dump. Incorrect readinds can cause a start then stall problem, engine flood with gas, or not enough gas. Aren't you glad your that much closer?

blindeyed

04-17-2011, 08:29 PM

Never had a no start problem, it would always start, but die off. Couldn't ever keep the thing running. In the video it would almost immediately die right after you start it. I found out I forgot to hook back up a vacuum hose that goes from the valve cover to the intake manifold. Now it runs about 3 times as long before dieing off. I'm almost certain now I have a mysterious vacuum leak that's eluding me. I could be wrong, but it's about the best lead I've got to go off of now.

Thanks for the tips, I'll def keep those in mind and take a close look at them

camoit

04-17-2011, 09:39 PM

Just something I see in the video. I saw that when the MAS was plugged in and you would start it the hole thing would move like it was plugging the air box. Then with it unplugged it would not move nearly as much. Look at the video. Oh Oh. I see it.... It's a bad radiator cap...

l.k.

04-18-2011, 03:46 AM

....:confused:....

crvtec90

04-18-2011, 06:07 AM

What year/make/ model did you get that mass air flow from? Im not sure it is what you need for your motor. :D

4doorciv

04-18-2011, 12:29 PM

Intetesting. So you suspect vacuum leak causing your stall? Is one of the sensors the coolant temp sensor? That one sensor can really mess you up and cause the ecu to dump fuel. Maybe look at both.

blindeyed

04-18-2011, 05:54 PM

....:confused:....
Mass air flow plugged in, motor stalls out after a couple seconds of running. Mass air flow unplugged, motor runs fine in limp mode.. that's about the jist of it.

What year/make/ model did you get that mass air flow from? Im not sure it is what you need for your motor. :D
Ditched the one I picked up in the junkyard. Used the CRC MAF cleaner on the sensor that came on this truck, and the old one off the other truck. Same thing happens.

Intetesting. So you suspect vacuum leak causing your stall? Is one of the sensors the coolant temp sensor? That one sensor can really mess you up and cause the ecu to dump fuel. Maybe look at both.
I suspect it now because I got a few more seconds of run time after hooking the vacuum hose back up that I left off. Kind of hoping maybe there's another mysterious vacuum leak somewhere.. it's my best guess at this point. I haven't touched the coolant temp sensor, because there's about 3 different sensors right by the thermostat housing. It's a little confusing as far as which one is which. I imagine one is for the gauges, one is for the ecu.. and the third?? fan possibly? No idea, haven't researched it any. Any info on that is greatly appreciated.

dmr8x2

04-18-2011, 09:15 PM

sounds like you may need to find someone with an Comp to talk to the ECU
and get your codes.

crvtec90

04-19-2011, 05:01 AM

Coolant temp sensor for computer is the one screwed into the top of the thermostat housing sticking straight up in the air with 2 terminals on it. Probably a yelow wire with a green stripe .... and a black wire.

4doorciv

04-20-2011, 06:01 PM

If I remember right, the sensor plug looks like a T. The one for the gauges is a single wire, and the fan switch is the third.

blindeyed

04-30-2011, 04:15 PM

Great news! The truck is running!

To all of those who posted, thanks a ton for your help! I did some more research last night on the coolant temperature sensor, and 4door, you nailed it on the head. Computer relies on that to help determine how much fuel to dump. Took the old one out, it was nasty, gunked up and corroded. New one in, it no longer stalls out after a few seconds of running. However, it was still running horribly as if it were about to stall out.

For shits and giggles, I figured I'd play with the distributor and try advancing/retarding the timing to see if that helps. What do you know.. it purrs now. Well, not really, the exhaust manifold leaks badly at the down pipe connection so it sounds like crap.. but compared to before, sounds like a freakin BMW.

Goes to show how simple the solution really can be. Not to mention how dumb it can make you feel for not thinking of it earlier :shakehead:

Haven't taken it for a test drive yet, probably will in the next couple of days. Will report back with more then.

camoit

04-30-2011, 05:56 PM

So it's like flying in a Cessna airplane.

l.k.

05-01-2011, 05:45 AM

Lmfao^^^^^

glad to see you got it running better man......

4doorciv

05-02-2011, 01:28 AM

Glad you got it running. I just gotta wait for a burnout video. ;) jk. Happy trucking.

blindeyed

05-02-2011, 05:32 PM

Just took it for a test drive around the block (didn't want to jinx myself, and have it break down) and it ran great. Better than I could have hoped! It still has a slight hesitation to it, nothing too noticeable. Pretty sure the timing still isn't dead on. But at least now I can drive it to a shop or something. Going to try to find someone local to help show me how to do timing. One of those things where I need an instructor, a book or pictures just don't work for me.

4doorciv

05-02-2011, 07:27 PM

You got a timing light? That's always a first step. Lol. Then you follow the directions in the manual on how to get base timing instead of timing advance and adjust the distributor till you got the right timing. I'm sure it shouldn't be much at a shop though. Gl.

crvtec90

05-03-2011, 05:06 AM

blindeyed

05-03-2011, 06:02 PM

Give me a call man.....we can make it happen.
Awesome man, thanks. I'm off work the next 2 days, I'll hit you up.

blindeyed

06-17-2011, 05:43 PM

Long time, no update..

Truck has been running great the past week or so. Even better recently, until it started blowing smoke out of the tailpipe. At start-ups.. I was used to it and didn't mind so much. But recently it started blowing smoke while driving.. sitting at red lights.. and got even worse at start-up. So I knew the time had come to replace the valve guide seals. With much success, I knocked it out with flying colors. This was the issue I had on the last truck. I over torqued the valve cover and broke one of the camshaft main bearings, then the front of the rocker assembly had broken in half, and in the end I dropped a valve in the cylinder. So sadly, I wiped my hands clean of that truck.

I was terrified of destroying this one. But fortunately, learning from my mistakes, nothing went wrong, and she no longer burns oil or blows any smoke. Oh, what a relief. Here's a comparison shot of my filthy valve cover before and after I cleaned it during this process.

Before (when I was replacing the injectors):

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After:

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and if you notice, I did a small wire tuck. Instead of having the wire harness come over the valve cover in front of the intake tube; I ran in behind it and under the throttle body. Much cleaner look IMO

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dmr8x2

06-20-2011, 02:57 AM

now for some cold air intake

4doorciv

06-20-2011, 09:18 PM

Good update. You seen honda-tech forums? They got a lot of wire tuck info on there.

blindeyed

06-21-2011, 07:53 PM

now for some cold air intake
It has a mass air flow adapter on it that allows it to fit a cone filter. It's not technically a cold air intake, but a nice upgrade over stock. I don't plan on doing a CAI since it's a daily driver and I enjoy running through the deep puddles :devil:

Good update. You seen honda-tech forums? They got a lot of wire tuck info on there.
Thanks. I've browsed on there a time or two. I won't be going gung-ho on wire tucking. But if I can find a better, less of an eye sore, way to route wires.. then I'm going to take it ;)

4doorciv

06-22-2011, 01:15 AM

The deep puddles make the best waves. Lol. It was just a suggestion if you were going further into a wire tuck.

blindeyed

06-30-2011, 05:04 PM

Motor is still running good, so I was finally able to focus on something else today. Got my new back slider glass and new weather stripping installed.

Out with the old

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and in with the new

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Will finally be able to see behind me now! The old glass was etched with some logos, making it nearly impossible to see through it and the 2 layers of tint. Next plan is to get the new glass along with the side windows tinted.

Total investment on these:
$15 for the brand new glass (ebay)
$60 on the new weather stripping (JCWitney)

Ironic I got the glass for 1/4 of the cost of the weather stripping, but I'm pleased overall for $75 and only 15 minutes of work removing and installing.

Payrion

06-30-2011, 05:35 PM

i really wish you would have taken some pics during the swap and a little how to...id like to remove mine and re weather strip but not completely sure on how to...

blindeyed

06-30-2011, 05:56 PM

It was honestly ridiculously easy. This was my first time ever doing one.

I watched these two videos to gain some perspective on how to do it, they should help you too.
http://youtu.be/ZVJdYinyASs
http://youtu.be/hW-2PD-hcCM

All you really need is a flat head screw driver to pry the window out, and about 12 feet of small string, which I got from wal-mart for $1. They have it in the craft section, just look for some that is about the size of kite string. When installing the window, you wrap the string in the weather stripping and spray the whole seal down with some water/dish soap mix. Have a friend hold it in place, and pull the string from inside the cab. It grabs the lip of the weather stripping and lifts it over the edge and inside. If you can change a spark plug, then this is nothing.

Here's another link that might help you with the install:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/2007/05/installing-back-glass/

Stunner

07-01-2011, 12:55 AM

It is really easy. I had to replace the back glass in my '92 Ram 50 after someone CUT IT OUT and stole it, along with my speakers, amp, and cd's.

Anyway, my boss at the body shop I worked at at the time found me a back glass and seal for $35 at a nearby salvage yard. A short trip later and I was back with it and ready to put it in. Having never installed one of this type before, I asked one of the guys I worked with to help me. We had it installed in less than five minutes. More like three. This was in '96, and it's been in and problem-free ever since... until now. It's not really a problem (yet), but I noticed the weatherstripping/seal is starting to split in places, and when you rub your finger or a rag across it, it'll leave you with a nice black mark for your troubles. Time is catching up to it, so it looks like a replacement is in my future.

What I'm really trying to say, in my long-winded-ass way, is that replacing yours shouldn't give you any problems or headaches.

Payrion

07-01-2011, 04:46 PM

nice to know..i see a new rear window seal in my future.

blindeyed

07-07-2011, 09:48 AM

Scored a set of "new" rims yesterday for the truck! They came with 4 pretty decent tires too. Finally, something on my truck actually looks good!

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They came with all 4 center caps too, I just didn't put them on yet. Cleaned them all last night, they were pretty filthy. They still need some polishing pretty bad, but man they look a ton better than my mismatched set of rims I had before.

Also.. don't ask about the primered rectangles on the doors. I have.. no idea? Possibly a decal was there that got painted over.. Seriously, the whole truck looks like it was roll painted with some rustoleum.

crvtec90

07-07-2011, 12:22 PM

Those r sum sharp wheels bud. Good find....I like the original factory look.

LethalEthan

07-07-2011, 04:49 PM

those look like factory sport wheels. I still have a set of those laying around. I like the look of em. Are yours 14's or 15's? If i remember correctly they came in both.

blindeyed

07-07-2011, 08:02 PM

Yeah they're the sport wheels, 14's. Bought them from a guy here in town who had the sport model, but threw on some toyota rims. Sold his truck, and still had these. Believe it or not I scored all 4 with the tires and center caps for only $100!

LethalEthan

07-07-2011, 08:33 PM

good deal!

DroppedMitsu

07-08-2011, 09:51 AM

Lookin sweet, I see you got those from that guy Mclovin on the other site huh

blindeyed

07-08-2011, 06:04 PM

Lookin sweet, I see you got those from that guy Mclovin on the other site huh
Yes sir! He hooked me up big time! I nagged him a bit on these lol

blindeyed

07-13-2011, 05:23 PM

Well apparently I'm just cursed when it comes to these trucks. Have never had so many problems with one vehicle, i swear.

Recently my motor has been making a metal ticking sound, which escalated into a grinding sound, and now it won't even start (no I didn't continue driving it this way). I had hoped it was just the starter not disengaging, but of course that would have been too easy of a fix.

Turns out my timing belt has come loose. Only inspected the top part by the valve cover, so my best guess at the moment is the tensioner broke off in some way or another. That or the balance shaft belt snapped? Fearing the worst at the moment as my camshaft is about 45 degrees off. Hoping and praying I didn't do any damage, and that the metal grinding was just the tensioner.

Will have more to report tomorrow.

camoit

07-13-2011, 07:44 PM

It's the wave theory. Everything comes in waves. Good news, bad news, women, tickets, sex, dry spells, you name it it comes in waves. I just hope the wave is over for you.

Stunner

07-13-2011, 11:06 PM

I hope none of your valves got bent or broken, as that can happen. I'm also crossing my fingers, for your sake, that it is just the tensioner.

blindeyed

07-14-2011, 05:16 PM

Well it turns out my guess was correct. Balance shaft belt snapped off.. and the tensioner ended up completely separating off, from its base. Crazy stuff.

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Ordered a new balance shaft and timing belt, along with a new tensioner for both too. There goes $115 more dollars I didn't have to spend. I'm a little optimistic as far as the valves being okay though, I think this was the only problem.. at least, I'm really hoping so.

DroppedMitsu

07-14-2011, 07:11 PM

That damn balance shaft belts/tensioners, hopefully no valves or anything are bent and that is it. When I bought the eclipse that I used for the 4g63, I had been driven in it by the guy that I bought it from and also drove a few people in it before I pulled the motor. Well turns out when I pull the motor I take off the timing cover there is a broken balance shaft belt. Luckily it somehow did not get caught on the timing belt or any of its components and broke it and bent my valves, I would have been one pissed off SOB lol. Well sorry for the rant anyways hope you can get it going without too many troubles

blindeyed

07-14-2011, 07:25 PM

Luckily you got off easy man lol.

It explains why when I was driving it, it felt as if a load had suddenly been put on the engine, as if an a/c compressor kicked on. I'm guessing the balance shaft belt broke, getting caught up into the timing belt. Just not sure how the timing tensioner snapped off the way it did.. very weird. That's what I get for not doing preventative maintenance on it and taking care of these when I was replacing my water pump. The truck has 160k miles on it and odds are the belts have never been changed. Lesson learned.

Stunner

07-15-2011, 12:03 AM

I also replaced both tensioners on mine when replacing the water pump and belts. The bearings in both tensioners sounded rough while spinning them, so I decided to nip that in the bud right then. Still had to take it all back off again, since my dumb ass had the balance shaft off half a turn. :shakehead:

Anyway, I hope this gets yours up and running again, with no hidden "surprises", such as any bent valves.

crvtec90

07-15-2011, 05:09 AM

From the pics I can see it looks like the bolt that holds the balance shaft gear is beat up as well. Since you are already spending money....might as well get all the seals. Cam, Crank, and both balance shaft seals. All that oil down there came from somewhere.....most likely from the shaft seals which have never been replaced. If the seals continue leaking, they will ruin the new belts. Then again, might as well just install the belts for now and make sure you did not bend valves. The service info I have on this motor warns not to turn the cam or crank with the belt off, this would indicate that it is an interferance engine, yet I have seen quite a few instances where the valves went untouched. Various circumstances control this such as rpm at the time of failure or how far the belt jumped timing.

blindeyed

07-20-2011, 04:20 PM

Good news! This motor is not an interference engine! I confirmed this by turning both the crank and camshaft, one at a time. The valves never touched the piston. Got the new belts and tensioners on, and she fired right up. Couple pics for your entertainment..

All put back together:
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Another pic of the timing tensioner for shits and giggles:
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Unfortunately, she shakes like a washing machine on spin cycle :bang:

I'm thinking it might be because of the oil pump sprocket.. am I correct in thinking that there's a balance shaft behind it too? I was pretty sure there was 2, but not sure. I spent alot of time on the other side that has the balance shaft belt. I aligned the oil pump sprocket with its timing mark.. But that was it. Didn't think I really needed to do the next step.

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I'm going to try to play with it more tomorrow, so in the mean time, can anyone tell me where exactly this bolt is? I looked on the drivers side of the engine and saw what I thought to be it back towards the starter. Just want to make sure that's it. A little confused about this part too.. I'm supposed to rotate the sprocket until I can fit the screw driver all the way in.. well, are the timing marks supposed to be aligned then too? What if they're not? Does the balance shaft only turn one full rotation when the sprocket is turned twice? That's the only logical thing I can think of..

Thanks for all the help so far guys!

From the pics I can see it looks like the bolt that holds the balance shaft gear is beat up as well. Turns out that was just a random piece of silicone that was on the edge of the bolt. Probably from when I did the water pump. You can kind of see in the new pic, the head of the bolt looks fine.

blindeyed

07-21-2011, 04:25 PM

Alright, well to answer my own question.. yes, there is a bolt back by the starter on the block. That is the access hole to the determine if the balance shaft is aligned properly. Skipping this step will only cause you headaches.

After doing that, I got everything aligned up properly, and started her up. She still ran like crap.. then I realized I had #2 and #3 spark plug wires crossed. Swapped those around, and all is well! She purrs once again. Next project is to swap out the front struts. Won't be getting around to that until next week probably, so if any of you have some tips or tricks for those I'd appreciate the advice.

DroppedMitsu

07-21-2011, 05:48 PM

Yup, theres definitely a balance shaft back there. glad you got it figured out and running well again

pennyman1

07-21-2011, 06:29 PM

Are you talking strut rods and bushings, or front shocks? Both should be easy unless really rusty

blindeyed

07-21-2011, 07:18 PM

Sorry, was referring to the front shocks. All I can afford to do for now. Figure each week I'll try to tackle something new on the front end. I know it's all in bad shape.

Stunner

07-21-2011, 11:40 PM

Glad you got it up and running.

This is the first I've heard about there being a hole on the block used to line up the balance shaft. It would have come in handy back when I did mine. At least I know now.

pennyman1

07-24-2011, 07:13 PM

2.6 motors have the same procedure for checking the silent shaft.

Stunner

07-25-2011, 03:00 AM

My dad knew about the procedure for lining up the balance shaft, yet forgot to let me in on this little kernel of knowledge. He just assumed I had everything lined up right, and I assumed the same thing. Heck, it looked right, but we should have known better than to just make assumptions, instead of actually checking to make sure everything was lined up properly. It won't happen again.

blindeyed

08-18-2011, 01:43 PM

As you guys can tell, this has been a relatively slow rebuild process for me. Only have 2 days off a week that I can work on it, and sometimes I"m really just not up for it. Current operation: Replacing worn out suspension components. This includes the lower ball joints, lower control arm bushings, idler arm bushings, and strut rod bushings. Recently added to this list is the wheel bearings, and tie rod end boots. Will probably be adding more as more is discovered, or if there are any other things (not horribly expensive ;)) that you guys might recommend to go ahead and nip in the but while I'm at this.

Made some progress today though. Was able to finally get the lower control arm free, after much time spent beating the bejesus out of the lower ball joint. I ended up placing the jack underneath the lower control arm (which I should had had their to begin with anyway! duh!). That in turn relieved the stress being put on the ball joint by the spring, and a few taps the joint fell right out. Would have used a spring compressor for this, but no auto part store carried one that would work.. So I had to wing it.

So then I was able to get the lower control arm bushings replaced, after the old ones literally crumbled out. Then I got the lower ball joint replaced. After that I had to figure out how to get the spring back in its place. That turned out to be the easiest part surprisingly. I set it back on top of the LCA, and used my floor jack to lift it up. At this point the truck also started lifting with it. I've been told I'd probably need someone to sit on the hood to help weigh it down. Turns out I got lucky and didn't need to. I just kept lifting and eventually it compressed the spring enough and the top bolt of the ball joint slid right into the knuckle. Threw the nut on, and lowered her back down.. easy peazy.

All I have left to do on that side is the idler arm and strut rod bushings, then replace the wheel bearings as I discovered they are making a faint grinding sound. Then I get to do it all over again on the other side!! If anyone is interested in a write up of this process, along with some pictures, let me know. I'd have no problem at all doing that. I know the Haynes manuals only help so much before you need some first hand, non-generic guidance.

blindeyed

09-14-2011, 03:42 PM

Just a slight update. Thanks to crvtec90's amazing alignment skills.. my truck is back on the road! Have been driving it for a couple weeks now. It's averaging 25 mpg right now, and that was with the check engine light on reporting a bad o2 sensor. Swapped that out, and got that fixed. Hoping to see a good increase in that. Also, not sure if I ever posted about it, but a while back I got the bright idea to stuff a small shop towel in the intake, just before the MAF sensor to help block some of the air going through the sides that the sensor doesn't read. At the time, the engine was barely idling, so this was my solution to richen it up. Surprisingly, it worked out quite well. Today, I took that towel out, after I fixed the o2 sensor, and it's running great! So that issue is no longer on the back of mind now.

So, as scared as I am to say this, and jinx myself. I think I have finally fully fixed my truck. The motor runs amazing, and it drives beautifully! I can finally move on to working on the cosmetics of this truck. Jo so as long as I didn't just jinx myself :rolleyes:

DroppedMitsu

09-14-2011, 04:57 PM

Glad to hear that and I hope that you did figure it all out, congrats!

Rickdees

09-15-2011, 05:02 PM

So then I was able to get the lower control arm bushings replaced, after the old ones literally crumbled out.
Now your getting to know your truck. When I pulled mine a part I found on both sides 70% gone. Get yourself a Pickle fork from autozone
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tie-Rod-Pickle-Fork,9376.html
They come in handy every now and then.

blindeyed

03-01-2012, 02:19 PM

Slight update here..

A couple weeks ago, my water pump gasket decided to blow out.. Wasn't too difficult of a fix. Now the new one doesn't leak in the back like the old one did, where the heater line hooks up. So that's nice. It is however leaking/buring coolant somewhere. I practically have to top it off every 2 days of so, depending on how much I am driving. Plan on doing a leak down test on each cylinder as soon as I get a new air compressor, as our old one finally crapped out. Aside from that, my alignment is still rock solid, tires are still looking great. Motor is still running good and strong. Has been quite nice actually.

Today I decided to clean her up a bit. The truck itself will never look very good with the craptastic paint job it has, but man do the wheels shine now

19750

19751

camoit

03-01-2012, 07:06 PM

Use a radiator tester on it. It will show you where the leek is.
If you aren't going to make her pretty then camo it :)

crvtec90

03-02-2012, 08:38 AM

hey bud. bring it on by my place and ill put a pressure tester on it. ;)

blindeyed

03-15-2012, 07:20 PM

Decided to try painting my door yesterday and today. I'm pretty good with a rattle can, and have done fantastic jobs on smaller parts. This is my first time trying to rattle can something on a "large scale." Came out really good I think, chose a semi-gloss black. Was paranoid to boot about getting tiger stripes showing through. I've seen some horrid rattle can jobs done out there, and did not want to be driving around looking like a fool.

Before (Previous owner, dont ask..):

19752

After:

19753

19754

Now the rest of my truck looks super dull. At least it doesn't stand out too bad like it used to. Still gotta do the drivers side door too. Figure I'm gonna try to knock out one panel a week on my 2 days off. Sand and prime the first day, paint and enjoy it the next. At least, as long as she stays running for me that is ;)