Before I begin my electric fuel pump install...

[RamRock50]

Hello everyone,

After getting my weber carb installed (finally!) and checking out mopar_ja's fuel pump install writeup (thank you, mopar!!), I feel like I am almost ready to tackle this project. I want to ask a few questions before I get going, though, especially since I do not see myself doing any more upgrades after this, unless it is a necessity. Here we go!

First, I went ahead and found most of the parts mopar used on Amazon with links below:


Carter P4070 In-Line Electric Fuel Pump (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIQ5DG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_1QuaEbVFPMXA9)
Professional Products 10216 Red/Blue -6 AN Inline Fuel Filter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BTHNN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_XSuaEbVPQRSYP) (According to the description, it is the same as the 10211 spec wise)
ALLMOST 40205G Electric Fuel Pump Harness and Relay Wiring Kit NEW (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NTSPMDN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_SWuaEbVKVYMWD) (Different brand, but spec-wise, and according to the fact that mopar and an Amazon reviewer had to use a longer wire for the relay-to-pump connection makes me think that this is otherwise the same kit used in the install writeup)


Now for the questions:

The Carter P4070 does sound a bit beefy, doing 72gph. Would it be safe for me to downsize to something that does 30gph, assuming it still has good (5-9) psi? If so, I was looking at the Universal Electric Inline Fuel Pump E8012S HEP-02A (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CKS4CHH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_T9uaEb74AVJ1J).
There are not a lot of 10216 filters available (only 1 at the moment) and shipping is a factor for me, so if I have to go with an alternative, will the Billet Aluminum Inline Fuel Filter + Bracket Cleanable 30 Micron for AN6 AN8 AN10 Black (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XKFLXB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_c8uaEbS5TYYP6) suffice?


That is all I have for right now. While I wait to get these parts ordered, I will work on getting all the other stuff ready. Any feedback is much appreciated. Thank you!!

[geezer101]

*An opinion only - I found the P4070 pump to be expensive and noisy, and not totally reliable either as I had one eat itself and cough up a heap of brass shards straight through my fuel system. I had the pump mounted as close as I humanly was capable of to the fuel tank so it wasn't struggling to prime - the Weber only needs 42GPH and 3.5 psi pressure to operate correctly. I have bought a Carbole 42S fuel pump for my swap (it's a high volume/low pressure pump) - it is identical to the Mr Gasket 42S pump, only difference is the label stuck onto the body of the pump (even the part # on the pump body is the same so it's actually the same pump). They are cheap - approx half of the Mr Gasket RRP. As long as you place a filter between the tank and the pump and it's not restrictive (and possibly ethanol compatible as I have seen ethanol dissolve the glue in cheap filers - not good...) and maybe a second filter before the carb as a precaution, you'll be ready to go. Using a relay kit for the pump is a wise move, but adding an isolation switch to disable the pump as well can not only act as a theft deterrent but can allow you to manually kill the pump if you have an emergency fuel delivery issue like a leak or (gulp) a fire.

[claych]

^^
With Very Humble respects geezer may I add the below

RamRock50,

Save your money on automotive fuel filter 'bling' & look into light aircraft fuel system filters :)
Specifically any of the micronic wafer filter systems.

With respects Honored Posters :)

[pennyman1]

Got to give us a where to get site for the aircraft filters - we are not all aircraft technicians here...

[RamRock50]

Thank you for the input, guys! I made this thread a month ago thinking I would be doing the install within the week...but I did buy some tools this past weekend in preparation at least. Anyway, I am going to browse around for a fuel pump and filters, and I'll post what I find. Thanks again!!

[Salteen]

I am using a holley pump, 7psi? It's a but high but I have a regulator on it. I totally agree with geezer on the air filter thing, you can cut a hole in the factory air box (the round type thing) and you can weld the plate that came with the weber in there and keep the original hoses. I think (dont hold me there but I think) there is a little bolt hole in the top of the Weber DGV carbs you can use to hold that filter in place. Plus it's a bigger Filter.

[pennyman1]

for the weber dgv carbs, weber makes an adaptor that has the center hole for a stud to bolt the factory air filter onto - its sold for a Toyota, but works for our trucks too - its the one with a round hole, not the trapezoidal hole...