Junker turned daily driver.

[87junker]

I started this adventure looking for an old truck to use as a woods truck play toy. Some reason this truck really caught my attention but some of the issues the PO SAID he was having had me worried. So I did some creaping on the forum before I bought it. With some guidance from members I was able to get it running good. Started out testing parts PO SAID were bad at local AutoZone. Starter and alternator checked out good. Next I had to sort out fuel situation. It was flooding bad and backfiring out both ends. I found timing was way out. Also the Weber needed rebuilt diaphragms were dry rotted and needle valve was worn. The PO was still using factory mechanical fuel pump. I did away with mech pump and installed an electric pump. Make a block off plate for fuel pump and secondary vacuum pump on manifold. I thought I had it figured out at this point. I had been messing with the ignition along the way. It would run for 20 mins or so and die. Narrowed it down to the icm. It kept getting hot and breaking down. I have access to a thermal imaging camera and was able to find excessive heat coming thru distributor. Replaced it and cleaned up and checked grounds to be safe. So far to date it's been doing good. It still wants to over run when I shut it off. I've been driving it to work the last couple days with no issues other than when down shifting or coming to a complete stop to get into first gear it's done fine for 31 year old truck. Unless something major happens I plan on driving as often as possible. I plan on still using it as a woods truck but this truck is growing on me so I won't be abusing it like I intended. I'll try to keep up on progress as I keep tinkering on it.

[87junker]

Installed new idler pulley for a/c. PO said that's all that was wrong and so far it's been true. For 80* out it cooled it down quite nicely.

[87junker]

20465

[geezer101]

Whoa, that's a big belt set up for A/C. Never seen it routed like that before!

[pennyman1]

That is the way Geronimo's was also - it runs in front of the other belts and requires an additional pulley on the crank. Starquests have them as part of the crank pulley, the trucks were a bolt on.

[87junker]

Went on a Wal-Mart run and hit 100 miles since distributor install. It's not much but from being towed home to where it is now it's doing pretty good. 20485

[87junker]

My power steering pump belt is on its last leg. But if it goes it's no biggie. It's pretty low on the list of things to fix. I need to address some steering issues, cv axles and clutch cable next.

[87junker]

20503
Poor boy paint job is half way done.

[87junker]

Also changed gear oil in trans. Got too hot and ran out of time to swap gear oil in transfer case. Trying to track down a bearing chatter. Hoping it's nothing big. Also looking at a motor mount.

[87junker]

20510
20511

Picked up a cheap roll bar for looks.

[geezer101]

If you are ever unfortunate enough to end up on your lid, you'll soon realise that bar is worth every cent. I want one for my Gen1 as the turret on the cab has all the structural integrity of a chinese take away box. You got a rear slider window too? The 'junker' is shaping up nicely - very cool :)

[royster]

It's a great look !

[87junker]

20525

20526

Before new grill and some paint.

[87junker]

20527

20528

After paint and new grill. I wish the old 4wd emblem would come off but I don't wanna break it.

[royster]

I wish the old 4wd emblem would come off but I don't wanna break it.

Perhaps you could carefully cut it out and sand down the rough edges, then find a way to mount it.

That's sort of what I did with my Ram emblem, except I used a belt sander to bevel it.

20529

[Giovanni89]

If that's a junker, mine is a pile :grinno: Are you removing or adding the camo?

[87junker]

If that's a junker, mine is a pile :grinno: Are you removing or adding the camo?

More like painting over. It was originally a silver color.

[87junker]

Perhaps you could carefully cut it out and sand down the rough edges, then find a way to mount it.

That's sort of what I did with my Ram emblem, except I used a belt sander to bevel it.

20529

My Mitsubishi emblem is toast. But the 4wd has a screw that won't budge and is trying to strip out. I'm gonna let it soak a few days and see if I can get it. Most likely I'm gonna break it.

[geezer101]

Get some locking pliers onto the head of the screw, it should come undone easy as it's only threaded into plastic.

[87junker]

20545

Went on a kayak fishing trip. Did about 75 miles round trip.

[87junker]

Drove it to work this morning and the gremlins are showing. Throw out bearing and cv axles have jumped to the top of the list.

[87junker]

20646

Did a little cosmetic work this evening.

[87junker]

Oh and hit 300 miles today.

[Giovanni89]

Lookin' good. These trucks really are reliable little buggers once you get the gremlins out. I put 40k miles on mine last year. It's never left me stranded. Always been able to limp it home if something happened.

[87junker]

By my math I'm getting 15 mpg I still need to look at swapping some jets.

[Giovanni89]

If I do purely around town, i'm only about 17. mixed driving I average about 21. Trying to improve that a bit.

[87junker]

20692
20693

Threw in a cheap cb radio.

[Giovanni89]

Whats your handle?

[87junker]

Bahaha I guess I don't really have one. Just got it to use while me and a buddy are out in the woods.

[87junker]

20775
20776

Added some lights and relocated the antenna.

[87junker]

Well I don't have any good news to report. But I do have some bad. I knew it was eventually going to happen the fuel pump is starting to give out. In the morning it does ok but closer I get to work u can tell it's giving up. This evening it is hot out and as soon as I started it u could hear it struggling. And as I was climbing a small hill at about 2500 rpm in third it started to run out of fuel. For what it was the current pump has done it's job for almost 400 miles. I'll give it another day or so to see if it finally goes just hope it doesn't leave me stranded in a bad spot.

[Giovanni89]

In honor of the great car crash king you could make your handle "Junkman" While pricier than other options and a bit noisier, my carter P4070 has been bulletproof. I have it mounted on the inner fender just below hood. No problem pulling a head from the tank. Feeds into a holley regulator set to 3psi. I've done 50K miles in the last 2 years. I was commuting through Boston metro area traffic for 1000 miles a week last summer before I sold my house in RI and moved to NH. A solid 2 hours of stop and go out of the 5 hours of driving and it never missed a beat. Ambient temp on the freeway surrounded by other vehicles was easily 100 F on many days. We had a couple of weeks of extreme cold this winter and I had no problems either. one week was -7 to -13 F every day and it always worked flawlessly. I'm pretty sure it was designed for military use and has been around for a loooong time.

[geezer101]

I'm not sold on the Carter pump. It was pricey. Yep, it's noisy too. But as I mentioned in another post the rubber mounting grommets didn't hold up well but I had another issue with it too. I had a metal strainer fitted before the main fuel filter and one day my engine stalled out. Main filter was fine - but the metal strainer had a heap of brass chaff in it. Only one place it could've come from which was the pump. The pump wasn't going to pull up anything from the tank that could do that kind of damage. Since then I've kept away from the rotary styled pump and will be going for a solid state facet pump when I finally have my truck ready.

[87junker]

Well today was the day. It finally left me stranded but it not fuel pump related ( I don't think it is at least.) Driving home from work I was in normal stop and go traffic in the pouring rain shifted down to 2nd and was going too slow and stalled it. Let it set for 20 mins to try and clear out it started but ran really rough and died. In hooked power to pump and cranked til it hit once but still nothing got a buddy to drag me home. I'll let it set for a few hours to see if it will start. Oh and pulled the distributor cap to check for moisture and it looked good.

[87junker]

Went out to try and start it again.......and nothing.

[geezer101]

Grrr, so what is it not doing (besides starting)?

[87junker]

Grrr, so what is it not doing (besides starting)?

I think I've got it figured out. I went back out to try it one more time and because I'm impatient and after a few cranks I started feeling around and quickly found the capacitor was hot like It burnt my finger hot.

20836

[87junker]

Any tips to what would cause it to get hot and break down? I think my local AutoZone might still have the one I ordered and never picked up.

[geezer101]

Your 'capacitor' (ballast resistor) has a hairline crack in it somewhere. Once the ceramic insulator is breached, you can light a cigarette of these biatches. Classic symptoms - engine starts, runs for 5-10 mins, then conks out. Won't start again for another 10-15 minutes. Cranks and starts fine, rinse and repeat...

[geezer101]

By the way - don't delete/bypass the ballast resistor. It'll roast everything downstream of that circuit.

[87junker]

Well I'm waiting on a new one to come in on Tuesday. I had another that came with the truck but it looked worse than this one but when the new one comes in and if it works I'm gonna get a spare just in case.

[Giovanni89]

You've got me thinking I should get a spare to toss in my glove box :thumbup:

[87junker]

Well no luck with the ballast resistor. Not getting any spark. It won't hit at all. Didn't have time to break out the ohm meter to test the ignition coil. I'm hoping it's not the ignition control module again.....

[Giovanni89]

Well no luck with the ballast resistor. Not getting any spark. It won't hit at all. Didn't have time to break out the ohm meter to test the ignition coil. I'm hoping it's not the ignition control module again.....
Just a quick thing to check. The 2 wires from the ICM are easy to swap. The ICM should be labeled B and C for battery and coil(pop off the distributor cap and rotor and you should see). The coil side goes to the coil negative, and the B side should be piggy backed to the power in side of the ballast resistor so that the ICM is seeing a full 12 volts. If it the ICM again, something in the wiring is probably burning them up.
Giovanni

[87junker]

https://youtu.be/C9QrYTMKSi0

Swapped out the icm from before that it would run on. Still no spark and now the tach is back to jumping. I've got to have a bad wire(s) somewhere. So now the fun begins chasing wires.

[87junker]

The sound In the back ground is the fuel pump.

[geezer101]

What is your coil like? It might be fragged... If you have a pocket multimeter have a shot at this -

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tach-jumping-around-115737.html#post809838

[87junker]

That was with the key on but not running. The sound in the background is the fuel pump.

[Giovanni89]

Try running a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the 12 volt side of the ballast resistor. That will give power to the ballast resistor, coi,l and icm. If it starts up then you know it's something upstream of the ballast resistor, ignition switch or wiring. If it doesn't start its something downstream of that connection, ICM, coil, ballast resistor, or bad ground.

[87junker]

With the key on I'm getting 12v on one side of the ballast resistor and 6.0 On the side going to coil. Added a ground from manifold to firewall and now the tach doesn't randomly bounce. Swapped back to the icm that came in the new distributor and put on a new coil and still it won't start. Any suggestions on getting new wires that run from icm to positive on one side and coil negative on the other?

[87junker]

Try running a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the 12 volt side of the ballast resistor. That will give power to the ballast resistor, coi,l and icm. If it starts up then you know it's something upstream of the ballast resistor, ignition switch or wiring. If it doesn't start its something downstream of that connection, ICM, coil, ballast resistor, or bad ground.


I tried what u said I found something very interesting. As soon as I hooked it up everything came on like I turned the key to "on"

[87junker]

Still won't start with the jumper wire. Gonna try and warranty the distributor. They won't just swap out icm they want the whole distributor.

[Giovanni89]

It was backfeeding to the keyed side of the switch once the jumper was hooked up. If you disconnect the power feed to the resistor from the ignition it wont do that, but no harm done. If you don't have one of these, get one. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1530579887&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+spark+tester
Fastest way to check for a no spark or weak spark. Checking in open air is not the same as checking in a cylinder with compressed air and fuel. The amount of power needed to spark under those conditions is far greater. At 12 bucks you can't afford to not have one!
I think warrantying it is not a bad idea. Electronics generally fail fairly quickly, or last a long time. Just like a rebuilt engine, or a machine tool. My number one rule of diagnosing is always suspect the new parts. I've been burned too many times assuming because something is newer it is still good.

[87junker]

https://youtu.be/-YAOCivM7sY

[87junker]

Got my spark tester in. And nothing. While cranking no spark at all. When u turn the key on I get a faint spark and the same when I turn the key of none while cranking.

[Giovanni89]

It sounds to me like a bad icm again. I would warranty that distributor. The wiring should look like this little sketch. Make sure your icm isnt hooked up to the 6volt side of the ballast resistor. That would probably burn it up
20888

[pennyman1]

yes it would - dc circuits with low voltage draw more current to make up the shortfall, which cooks things...

[87junker]

Got the dist out they have one for me tomorrow. I should have it back in this weekend.

[Yoshiwarrior]

If you are ever unfortunate enough to end up on your lid, you'll soon realise that bar is worth every cent. I want one for my Gen1 as the turret on the cab has all the structural integrity of a chinese take away box. You got a rear slider window too? The 'junker' is shaping up nicely - very cool :)

I've got one on my truck. I recently removed the back braces tho. They took up too much bed space. I've got my lights mounted on the other part.

[87junker]

https://youtu.be/r7jDH1kRfo0

2nd distributor is back in and running. Test drive went good. Drove it to work this morning and as I was in the McDonalds drive thru the temp gauge started climbing. A/C was on and they were running slow as normal so I'll be monitoring that now.

[Giovanni89]

Glad to hear she is up and running again! Check your fan clutch. With the engine hot if you shut the truck off and then try and spin the fan it shouldn't go more than 1 revolution. Thats the rule of thumb I know, but someone more familiar with these trucks may have a different amount of rotation.
I run a rigid mounted dirt track fan that required drilling out and retapping the water pump flange. Cools the truck awesome, but the water pump isn't made for that much thrust load. I got about 30 or 35k miles out of the first water pump it was mounted on:shock:

[pennyman1]

electric fan is what to go with - it cools better, and frees up horsepower.

[Giovanni89]

Any recommendations on an electric? The one I tried didn’t have enough flow. I made a shroud for it too

[pennyman1]

get one 1800 and up CFM - I used a Derale on Geronimo

[87junker]

Coolant must have just been low. Put some water in it and its has been finfine since. I did order some new primary idle jets today. I'm gonna try and get some some more giddy up out of the old weber.

[Giovanni89]

I suspect my poor luck with electric was because i used a questionable fan. The Derale's look nice, and cost 4 times as much as the one I tried.
Hope she's not drinking the coolant.

[87junker]

I ordered some new primary idle jets from Allstate carb. I had a 60 in it. I put a 70 in and readjusted everything and it ran a lot better. It still seems to want to quit pulling after 55mph. I can hit 65 but it takes for ever and it feels like it done it has no more in it. Wonder if larger secondary jets would do the trick too?

[87junker]

Still has a lot of crackles in the exhaust.

[geezer101]

Try dialling in your ignition tune. Hold the rpm @ 2000 and gently swing the distributor either way between advance and retard until you notice the engine rpm's spike by themselves, back it off just a touch then lock the distributor in place (it wouldn't hurt to undersize the plug gaps either by about 0.05 - 0.1mm) Should give you more midrange to top end power, an improvement in top speed and pull through gear changes faster. As for the secondary jets, going up might cause a flat spot in the transition into midrange. The exhaust crackle could be an indication that the timing is retarded. Also the exhaust system design has a hand in it too. Less bends and restrictions cause the exhaust pulse to scavenge the combustion chambers a little more aggressively.

[87junker]

Scheduled to have a new windshield installed Wednesday. I've been getting death stares from all the local cops. Busted windshield and a dead inspection sticker I'm not sure how I've made it this long.

[87junker]

20965

New windshield installed.

[geezer101]

How much did the new glass set you back? I'm curious on how the prices compare to Oz. I can get new glass for $110 AUD and another $110 will get it installed.

[87junker]

It was 185.00 USD installed.

[geezer101]

Hmm, converting USD to AUD, it's cheaper in Oz but not too far off price wise ($20ish USD)
I'm surprised - for once I'm actually getting a decent deal locally :woo:

[87junker]

Still no luck on getting some top speed out of it. Tried to swing the distributor back and forth. No luck. More timing it was wanting to backfire through the carb less timing it bogged and barely hit 45 mph. It's been running fine since I swapped the primary idle jet. It will run up to 3500 4000 rpm in first thru third gear but as soon as u go into fourth about 2500 rpm is it and in fifth with the pedal to the floor 2100-2200 rpm is all it's got. I'm gonna swap air filters to see if that will help some but it has a k&n that I cleaned and oiled as soon as I got it.

[geezer101]

Are you running an open element K&N or is it like the factory sealed air cleaner? Going for an open element filter is bad news. It will do a couple of things - #1: pull hot air directly from the engine bay. Guaranteed to kill performance. #2: decrease the length of the air intake tract. Robs engine of torque. They can also do some other scary things. If you get a backfire through the carb, it will roast the filter foam. Gets sucked straight into the engine. They also have a tendency to shrink. Air will bypass around the bottom edges of the filter which completely voids the filtering efficiency. It is better to use the stock air cleaner and lengthen the intake pipe. It will help to improve torque.

[Clay]

Flex-a-lite makes a nice electric fans and their fan controllers are good as well. I haven't used derale fans, but their fan controllers are junky.

[87junker]

20979

It's just the regular setup Ive seen on a weber.

[geezer101]

It's the open element filter that most people use but this is part of the problem with upgrading to the Weber. At least it's not a cheap sponge foam filter but these will cause A/F ratio issues especially in summer due to it pulling a hot air charge. If you can rig up a modded stock air cleaner or make a sealed remote system and have it ducted from a location where it can pick up air from outside the engine bay, it will improve how the engine runs and aid economy as well.

[2nup350]

Try this
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/7077-Quiet-Air-Cleaner-for-Weber

[87junker]

Well good thing I'm kinda handy with a welder and the po didnt trash the original air cleaner. He did try to modify it to fit a weber and by modify I mean butcher. But a new flat plate on the bottom and a good clean cut out of the weber shape and I should be able to make it fit.

[87junker]

2nup350 did I see a YouTube video on this.

[geezer101]

Depending on what height the air cleaner wants to sit on the Weber, you might not need to weld anything. Maybe an offcut of alu sheeting rivetted and silicon'd will do the trick. Trace the top cover pattern straight onto the alu sheet, cut out for the top of the Weber and shift it around until it centres itself under the air cleaner box. Trim it down to make it neat, bam a couple of rivets in and a bead of silicon. Too freakin' easy :grin:

[87junker]

20983

I didnt have to do much to get it to fit. But now to route a hose to fresh air. I'm thinking of a snorkel possibly. Everyone loves cutting big holes in their fenders right?

[87junker]

And I have a question this valve I'm sure is irrelevant now with a weber. Did I read somewhere about removing and putting a plug in the manifold?20985

[geezer101]

With some of the kits they come with a threaded bung that blocks off the EGR system. A friend of mine suggested that, instead of using a bung to block it off, it could have an O2 sensor fitted in there. That way you not only solve the EGR delete problem but can add an A/F gauge to monitor your ratios. Good for setting base mixture A/F and have an indicator of where your best economy is on throttle.

[87junker]

20987

So I had to wait a little bit on a factory air filter and to go buy some hose to route to the hole by the headlight. So far nothing has really changed. I adjusted the idle air mixture screw and still the same top speed and same once u get into 4th and 5th. 1st-3rd is better more get up and go it seems when I take of kinda fast but taking off slow it seems like its bogging more now. A big plus now when down shifting it doesn't sound like an indy car. The popping and cracking is almost gone. Still need to do some tuning it seems.

[87junker]

Still a lot of heat in the engine compartment. Everything under the hood is always too hot to touch. The factory air cleaner was even super hot. Gauge isn't showing hot but it could be reading wrong it is man made and 31 years old.

[87junker]

I was hoping my new sticker would help make it faster too20988

[Giovanni89]

I put an AEM wideband O2 in my truck. Definitely makes tuning the weber a lot easier. Unless you just have a tired engine, I think you can probably get a lot more out of it. My 2.6 is in front of a 4 speed slush box and I cruise at 75 all the time on the primary barrel only. When I first got the truck and the carb was not set up right, I would be in the secondary to hold 75.

[87junker]

FYI it doesn't hurt to go back and check hose clamps on fuel lines after a little while. Started running funny and got a strong smell of fuel. Went ahead and tighted all my clamps.

[pennyman1]

One item that works well on the weber is running a taller air filter. I have one on Geronimo with a cowl induction hood scoop that is functional. The taller filter allows the air to have a straighter path to the top of the carb, and has less time to pick up heat. The stack weber carbs come with restrictive filters that make the air bend all kinds of ways, and chokes the carb off. Look at the gallery pics for the air filter I am running. Unfortunately, it is only for the DGEV, but if you have the dfav, they make an adaptor that lets you use the factory air cleaner assembly.

[87junker]

21067

21068

Finally finished up my poor boy paintjob.

[87junker]

With some of the kits they come with a threaded bung that blocks off the EGR system. A friend of mine suggested that, instead of using a bung to block it off, it could have an O2 sensor fitted in there. That way you not only solve the EGR delete problem but can add an A/F gauge to monitor your ratios. Good for setting base mixture A/F and have an indicator of where your best economy is on throttle.


Any help on finding the thread sizes for a bung to put an o2 sensor in the manifold. I just twisted the pipe in two so now I'm definitely putting an o2 sensor in.

[tortron]

M18x1.5

[87junker]

M18x1.5

That's for the sensor itself? I'm looking for the size that threads into the manifold so the o2 can thread into it.

[tortron]

That's for the sensor
You would typically weld a bung in not thread it in. Bungs are like $10 and an exhaust shop will do it in half an hour

[87junker]

Best I can find is the red valve tube has m30x1.5 threads so I will need a reducer that goes from m30-1.5 to m18-1.5

[87junker]

With some of the kits they come with a threaded bung that blocks off the EGR system. A friend of mine suggested that, instead of using a bung to block it off, it could have an O2 sensor fitted in there. That way you not only solve the EGR delete problem but can add an A/F gauge to monitor your ratios. Good for setting base mixture A/F and have an indicator of where your best economy is on throttle.

I'm having a hard time finding a reducer to thread into the manifold.

[Giovanni89]

I used the stock O2 sensor port to thread in my wide band O2. I did have to remove the manifold and do a little "port work" with the die grinder. To block off the egr tube, I removed the tube and cut it. Took the nut off. I bored it out on my lathe and made a stainless steel plug with a bar end from the scrap bin at work. I used a quite heavy interference fit. .004" or .005" i think and pressed it in with a 20 ton press. Has been in there for 50k miles. You could probably weld a piece of flat bar over the top of the nut too and just thread it back in.
She looks good painted!

[87junker]

So the heat shield is giving me fits. I'm trying really hard not to break any bolts. Gonna let the pb blaster chill for the evening.

[87junker]

21094

Somehow this evening murphys law didnt apply itself to my project. All the bolts came loose and everything went together smoothly. O2 sensor is installed.

[87junker]

https://youtu.be/smHHpsm--1E

Here is the initial run. It's very rich at idle and cruising thru 3rd. 4th isn't bad just cruising but when u get on it then it starts leaning out then 5th is about the same unless I'm into the secondary.

[87junker]

21095

I was hoping just the sticker would make it run better.

[geezer101]

...Somehow this evening murphys law didnt apply itself to my project. All the bolts came loose and everything went together smoothly. O2 sensor is installed.

Oh you gonna get it now bro :lmao:Adjust the air/fuel mixture screw to tame the rich idle (will be a piece of cake once you have the O2 sensor and a gauge installed). You really need to give your engine bay a big clean. Non caustic oven cleaner - try it. Cheap to buy, easy to get, works awesome and one can is usually enough for one lap of an engine bay.

[87junker]

Do u think I went too big on the primary idle jet? It had a 60 originally and I put a 70. I've got a 65 to try too.

[87junker]

Went to the 65 and its around 12.2 now. It still has some funny flat spots where it leans out under throttle in 4th and 5th gear.

[87junker]

The more I run it the leaner it got to where it would hardly run. Went back to the 70.

[geezer101]

Primary idle has to be a touch rich to keep up with demand when you go in on-throttle.

[87junker]

I wonder if the power valve could have went bad already? If I just shift normal it shows lean until I give it some more gas then u can hear the tone change and drops down around 13.8.

[87junker]

Searched all over for a vacuum leak nothing found.

[Giovanni89]

I took a spare power valve (the part that threads into the bottom of the bowl) gutted it and soldered it shut. I found that it leaned it out all over the place, not just where I thought it should. Mine runs pretty well right now, I put a ton of miles on it, but I've experimented a bit with modifying the emulsion tubes. I may take a little bit off of the length of the power valve spring which should cause it to engage later, or possibly file down the top of the pin on the thread in valve.
I have opened up exhaust and valves with undercut stems, so I believe I flow a bit better than stock. I was never able to get enough air into it at idle. Drilling a 1mm hole in the primary barrel throttle plate, opposite of the transition ports, made a world of difference for me. I also removed the idle air correction bushing and drilled and tapped it to accept the main fuel jets, so that I have better control over the idle circuit. I think the 2.6 is just a wee bit too big for the stock idle circuit.
Now that you have a wideband, you will have many sleepless nights :lmao:

[geezer101]

I took a spare power valve (the part that threads into the bottom of the bowl) gutted it and soldered it shut. I found that it leaned it out all over the place, not just where I thought it should. Mine runs pretty well right now, I put a ton of miles on it, but I've experimented a bit with modifying the emulsion tubes. I may take a little bit off of the length of the power valve spring which should cause it to engage later, or possibly file down the top of the pin on the thread in valve.
I have opened up exhaust and valves with undercut stems, so I believe I flow a bit better than stock. I was never able to get enough air into it at idle. Drilling a 1mm hole in the primary barrel throttle plate, opposite of the transition ports, made a world of difference for me. I also removed the idle air correction bushing and drilled and tapped it to accept the main fuel jets, so that I have better control over the idle circuit. I think the 2.6 is just a wee bit too big for the stock idle circuit.
Now that you have a wideband, you will have many sleepless nights :lmao:

Sounds like tutorial material to me...

[Giovanni89]

Maybe when I get it right :lmao:I've gone back and forth on a ton of things. It's certainly streetable tho, I commute 100 miles a day with it.

Sounds like tutorial material to me...

[BradMph]

Maybe when I get it right :lmao:I've gone back and forth on a ton of things. It's certainly streetable tho, I commute 100 miles a day with it.

Geezer commutes uphill in both directions too! :P


I use to commute to San Francisco everyday as well. Just a couple miles under 100 a day. Truck was used for 10 years doing that drive and never failed.

[87junker]

Hopefully I'll get it to that point eventually. I hope to have new tires by this weekend. 21138

[87junker]

New tires all around now.
21139

[tortron]

Looking good mate. What tyres did you go for?

[geezer101]

Looks like it means business :thumbup:

[Giovanni89]

Sweet!

[87junker]

Looking good mate. What tyres did you go for?

Nexen roadian mt 235/75/15.

[87junker]

21161

So I tore back into my weber. Power valve diaphragm is bad again and excuse my crude drawing of all the jets as of now. Anyone have any suggestions on where to start on jetting for a 2.6l?

[87junker]

From what I'm finding the jet sizes are for a factory DGAV minus the primary idle jet I've changed.
21162

[87junker]

Just ordered an new power valve diaphragm and some main jets and air collectors. Any one any good with figuring out emulsion tubes? Or can tell me the characteristics of what certain sizes do to the operation of the carb?

[Giovanni89]

Get a spare emulsion tube before you start meddling. I did a lot of research on them, and here are the big things that I took away. Holes at the top will lean lower in the rpm range. Holes at the bottom will lean higher in the rpm range. Holes above the fuel bowl level will delay the activation of the main jet because the air can flow through those holes and into the venturi without emulsifying any fuel. Too many holes at the top will lean out the high rpm as well. Holes that are below the fuel bowl level will cause the main circuit to activate earlier and enrich the mixture.
The diameter of the emulsion tube and steps/taper also plays a part in how it acts. Generally speaking, the larger the diameter of the emulsion tube, the less fuel reserve in the emulsion tube well and leaner it will be.
My jetting is far different from anything I have come across, but I feel it runs fairly well. It starts at 100 degrees, or 13 below. Doesn't diesel any more when I shut it off. I've towed up to 3000lbs, cruise routinely at 75 on the highway without having my foot buried in the throttle, and return an average of 22mpg mixed driving with the automatic.
I don't have it written down, but I believe what I am running (although i have a opened up exhaust and undercut valve stems) is a 130 main, 140 or 150 main air corrector. a 60 or 65 idle, and a 170 idle air corrector (I modified my carb to accept main jets as idle air corrector jets) but 170 is the stock size. I also have a 1mm hole drilled in my throttle plate opposite of the transition ports. I could never get the idle right until allowing more air in with the hole in the throttle plate. Otherwise I would have to have the idle speed screw in too far, and it would always diesel.
I think from here I need to reduce my idle air jet to get it to richen up just a tad at highway light throttle cruise, but this will mean enlarging the hole in the throttle plate to get enough air at idle. I also need to lean it out at low rpm heavy throttle which I will most likely try to accomplish with a few extra small holes in my emulsion tube. I am running a stock f50 at the moment.

[geezer101]

If you want to know anything about carbies - ask Giovanni. I'm going home... :shakehead:

I mean, I thought I was a lunatic for jamming my Mikuni Solex under a drill press and drill aligning all of the vacuum galleries and gaskets. And I've managed to get my weirdo 34DATA carb throttle linkages to behave like the stock carb but full props to you sir for tackling emulsion tube mods and to even understand how they fully work.

[87junker]

I appreciate the feed back I'm hoping the power valve diaphragm will fix some of my issues. I may have went the wrong way with my jet selections. But I did get the coolant hole drilled and tapped.

21164

[Giovanni89]

A lot of what I learned was from trolling the forums and posts from folks like you geezer. I don't know everything, I'm just not afraid to start cutting things up :lmao:

If you want to know anything about carbies - ask Giovanni. I'm going home... :shakehead:

I mean, I thought I was a lunatic for jamming my Mikuni Solex under a drill press and drill aligning all of the vacuum galleries and gaskets. And I've managed to get my weirdo 34DATA carb throttle linkages to behave like the stock carb but full props to you sir for tackling emulsion tube mods and to even understand how they fully work.

[Giovanni89]

http://www.performanceoriented.com/performance-tuning-2/
Scroll down on this page for a lot of good info on emulsion tubes. I believe this was written for weber side drafts, but the theory should be the same. Definitely do not tackle this without a wideband O2. Small changes can have subtle or drastic effects. You can create a lean hole in your fuel delivery curve that if left unchecked could do damage.
This is a photo of my idle air jet setup. Not shown is that you have to grind some relief in the top cover of the carb so that it will fit over the head of the jet.
A word of caution, bolt the carb down to a drill press or milling machine, and use a depth stop. You are intersecting the idle fuel jet hole. When you break through the cross hole it will lift up the carb and if not bolted down could cause some carnage. You are kissing the top of the idle fuel jet seat, so carnage could mean that you idle fuel jet will not seal rendering the carb body useless unless you can re spot the seat. Use a bottoming tap, and watch from the idle jet hole in the side of the carb body. You don't want the tap to to chew up the idle jet seat, which it will do if you go too deep.
21165

[geezer101]

Agreed on having an O2 sensor and gauge installed. Helps even with minor stuff like setting the base A/F mixture. You ever tried polishing the throats and cutting back overhangs and ledges in the carb body?

[87junker]

Shew that's a lot of info to soak up. But definitely explains effect of the emulsion tubes.

[87junker]

21166

Dang murphys law got me this evening too.

[geezer101]

Dang, seen that before :shakehead: A drill and screw extractor might get it out, or drilling it out enough to break out the last fragments of the bolt and making a pass through it with a thread tap. Fingers crossed this doesn't turn into a major headache.

[steve1814]

I had the same thing happen. If you have enough thread for half a turn of a nut, welding the inside of the nut to the thread worked for me. I also saturated the threads with break free before welding. worst part for me was the PO stripped the threads on manifold on the other side and used a bent head bolt tapped up through the bottom to "fix it". That was an unpleasant surprise. I had to tap and helicoil new threads in. good luck with your repair, you've been doing a great job on it so far-Keep it up!

[tortron]

Forget the extractor. It will just snap out if that stud is any tighter than finger tight.
Either put a nut over the reminants, and weld them together and unscrew. Or centre punch and drill out with a sharp bit until the hole is just equal to the threads, then pick them out with a pick.

If you do snap an extractor off, grind it flat, punch it, and drill out with a new cobalt drill bit and retap

[87junker]

Extractor was a no go. Started cranking on it and heard the bad tink sound. It didnt break off but the extractor is junk now. So now its drilled thru and waiting till I buy a tap.

21170

[87junker]

Could go back to sleep this morning so I went out and threaded the hole and put everything back together. Still waiting on carb parts to get back to my original project.

21183

[87junker]

21191

Carb parts finally made it in.

[87junker]

Got everything installed changed some jets helped a little but still to lean while cruising in 4th and 5th and when u get on it to speed up it leans out from 2500 rpm and up til I let out when it gets around 17.0 on my afr gauge.

21192

[87junker]

Cooler thermostat didnt help either. Still getting hot after about 20 mins. It will cool down once u get moving but as soon as u slow down it will start climbing back up.

[tortron]

Cooling down when moving tells us that either the radiator or fan isn't up to scratch.
I don't recall if you replaced the rad on this, but if not it could probably do with being taken to a shop for rodding out to clear the tubes.
You will probably find that 30 percent of the tubes are gummed up.

Also check that your fan is still in one piece, i.e. it hasn't lost any of its blades, and that the clutch is activating. I.e is it turning at a good speed at idle when the truck has warmed up? If not you may need a new fan clutch, or swap to an electric unit

[87junker]

Cooling down when moving tells us that either the radiator or fan isn't up to scratch.
I don't recall if you replaced the rad on this, but if not it could probably do with being taken to a shop for rodding out to clear the tubes.
You will probably find that 30 percent of the tubes are gummed up.

Also check that your fan is still in one piece, i.e. it hasn't lost any of its blades, and that the clutch is activating. I.e is it turning at a good speed at idle when the truck has warmed up? If not you may need a new fan clutch, or swap to an electric unit

I just fisished flushing the radiator. It didnt look too bad and not a lot of junk came out but the ac condenser was packed with dust and bugs. So it got sprayed out really good. In the process of putting it back now.

[geezer101]

It should cool down when you're driving. It's getting air forced through the radiator by it's own forward movement. It's when you're stuck in traffic that it'll want to heat up. If you get rid of the mechanically driven radiator fan and go electric it will work when you need it, takes a load off the water pump bearings and improves throttle response. Added bonus is freeing up some engine bay room. I used a batch of citric acid powder to flush out a couple of heater cores and radiators, and it did a decent job of breaking up sediment in them. Some guys run it in the engine but I'm not game enough to as it will attack alloy. My intake manifold on my G63B had corroded out and when I cut the cooling chamber cover out from the base of the plenum, chunks of rust fell out of it (presumably came from the inside of the block and got lodged in there)

[tortron]

I just fisished flushing the radiator. It didnt look too bad and not a lot of junk came out but the ac condenser was packed with dust and bugs. So it got sprayed out really good. In the process of putting it back now.

See how it goes. The stuff that gets stuck in the tubes wont come out from a flush. But if the condenser was packed full it would have a noticeable effect

[87junker]

https://youtu.be/qqRXScQMm6A

It still has a few lean spots but does better at maintaining speed in 4th and 5th.

[87junker]

https://youtu.be/lQfRCI27DY0

Radiator seems to have good flow thru it. And it it ran cooler after cleaning. But I'll have to see how it does on a warm day again it had cooled down quite a bit from earlier today.

[87junker]

21203

A little before and after.

[Giovanni89]

Looking good! Even with a cooler thermostat and a new radiator, water pump, and fan clutch, mine was getting warm at low speed too. Where is your idle at? If I have my park/neutral idle set to 900rpm it drops to about 6-700 in gear. At that speed it just wont move enough air with the stock fan. I tried upping my idle a bit but it really slammed into gear and wanted to pull hard at idle. I went the larger rigid mounted mechanical fan route because I'm cheap, but I'm willing to bet that a good electric fan will solve your problem. I actually tried some little electric fans I had first, they worked well at idle but weren't letting enough air through at high speed. If you go electric, you'll want to upgrade the alternator if you have the 40ish amp unit.

[87junker]

Yesterday day it did good it was 85-90 degrees. Today and tomorrow should tell me how it's doing but I'm afraid the 180 thermostat is gonna be too cold for winter.

[Giovanni89]

It probably will be. With my rigid mounted fan I had to stuff some cardboard in front of the radiator last winter, although we were getting into the double negative digits.
Overheating is the system not being able to shed enough BTU's of heat, and a cooler thermostat does not affect the efficiency of the system, just the cut in point. It may be enough to keep it running cooler under current conditions (although my experience is it just takes a few more minutes to start getting hot), but once you up the load on the engine or raise the ambient temperature the needle will start to climb again.
The hotter the radiator is, the more efficient it actually gets at transferring heat, because the transfer of heat from the radiator to the surrounding air is relative to the square of the difference of temperatures. However if you raise the ambient temp of the surrounding air the system loses efficiency, and that cooler thermostat that works at 90deg might not work at 95deg
The real fix will most likely be air flow, although water flow is a possibility too. One thing to check is to make sure your fan belt is nice and snug. A slipping belt at low speed will cause your fan and water pump to turn more slowly and cause overheating.

[pennyman1]

get a 192 degree reverse flow thermostat - it gives higher flow with the higher temp for winter. The 2.6 motors run best with the 192 / 195 stats. The 180 stats were stock on the 79 - 80 2.6 motors - I changed Geronimo's after the first winter to get heat, and never went back to a 180.

[Giovanni89]

Pennyman, what is a reverse flow thermostat? Every thermostat I've put in my truck does a strange thing. Starting from dead cold, the coolant will reach 210-220 degrees before the thermostat opens and it drops down to 190-195. Not to hi-jack, but does anyone know what causes this?

[geezer101]

Is it because there's cold coolant above the thermostat acting like a thermal heat sink on the thermostat itself? The coolant below it is reaching operating temperature which the gauge sender is reading correctly. A theory...

[tortron]

The thermostat opening point is the point where it starts opening. Add another 10degrees and it will be fully open. So a 190 might not be fully open till 200 or so

[87junker]

Believe I'm going back to the 192 it is staying cooler now and isn't warming up at all in the morning and this evening driving around after work it still wasn't reading hot enough.

[87junker]

And I'm glad I have a spare fuel pump ready. The setup I have now pumps really hard in the morning when it's cool and in the evening it's not pumping near enough. It night and day difference from morning to evening.

[pennyman1]

a reverse flow thermostat refers to the valve that opens and closes - the valve opens in reverse of the standard stat in the direction of flow instead of against it, allowing for unrestricted flow when open.

[Giovanni89]

Is it because there's cold coolant above the thermostat acting like a thermal heat sink on the thermostat itself? The coolant below it is reaching operating temperature which the gauge sender is reading correctly. A theory...
That makes sense, because if the truck has been sitting for long enough that the temp is near the bottom of the gauge, it will get up to operating and stay there without the temp spike. Enough heat surrounding the thermostat that it does it's normal thing.
Pennyman, do you have a link to one of these reverse flow thermostats? Next time I replace mine I think i'll go that route.
And Junker, A new fuel pump might have an effect on your lean spots. The Weber's are pretty sensitive to fuel pressure and adequate flow. Maybe the pump is getting weak on you once you have some under hood heat on the highway?

[pennyman1]

Here is a link - search for a better price:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stant-45869-Engine-Coolant-Thermostat-for-Chrysler-Conquest-E-Class/362353607083?fits=Model%3AD50%7CMake%3ADodge&epid=1338782529&hash=item545df541ab:g:nKAAAOSwe25bIqXr

[Giovanni89]

I got the same one for rock auto for 5 bucks last year. Guess I have been running a reverse flow all along :grin:

[87junker]

What size fuel line do y'all recomend for installing one of the carbole pumps back by the fuel tank? I thought I read where someone said 3/8. Trying to figure out which size to keep down on pressure loss.

[pennyman1]

3/8ths is too big for that pump - use 5/16ths.

[87junker]

I may need to tackle it in the morning went on a quick run this evening and could barely get over 2 grand before it would lean out.

[pennyman1]

the pump is too small for that 3/8th line - too much pressure drop. You would need a pump with 2 - 3 times the GPH of that pump to keep the line full...

[87junker]

Can I just use the factory fuel line along the frame rail? It is everyone running all new hose from tank to the carb?

[87junker]

I went ahead and just ran new line all the way. BUT.... While I was looking it over for leaks u can literally see the gas fumes coming from the pump.

[87junker]

I wonder if the mr gasket one is any better.

[87junker]

I went ahead and just ran new line all the way. BUT.... While I was looking it over for leaks u can literally see the gas fumes coming from the pump.

Disregard it must have been my imagination.

[87junker]

https://youtu.be/73cwgqGwUc4

Ok so I may have got a little ahead of my self earlier. Runs better now. Here's a video of it cruising. It does much better at higher rpms. Still seems like some is going on between cruising and getting on it. It leans out until the accelerator pump can catch up.

[geezer101]

I wonder if the mr gasket one is any better.

It's the same pump. Right down to the part number cast onto the side of the pump body.

[geezer101]

Might be timing as well. If you haven't gone through altering the distributor advance curve it might feel a bit funky going through the transition of the secondary opening. I haven't trusted factory timing specs since I started experimenting with tuning.

[87junker]

Went to drive it to the farm today and had to turn around. Ran like crap. Temp gauge never moved after 20 minutes of driving radiator and hoses were barely warm. Kept reading really lean. QUESTION how rich does a motor have to be to give a false lean reading.

[Giovanni89]

I imagine rich enough that you would see a puff of black smoke coming out of the tailpipe. But that's just a guess. It can't hurt to double check your ignition. Taking apart the distributor and lubing up the fly weights might not be a bad idea. Mine were getting sticky and causing all kinds of weird driveability issues. If your weights are stuck advanced when you set the timing, you'll actually be running way retarded. Disconnecting the the vacuum advance and watching your timing light as you rev the engine up slowly should give you an idea of whats going on. Any jerky, or lack of movement of the timing is reason to inspect. If it does not return to the same base timing, also inspect.
I know it's not the recommended setup, but I run a Carter P4070 fuel pump that I have mounted above the drivers wheel, where the emissions control was. It's been in service over 55k miles with no problems. I put it into a Holley regulator set to 3 psi. One of the things I like about this setup, is that the line from the tank up to the engine bay is all under vacuum, not pressure. Lines under vacuum spew much less gas if they fail. It also keeps the pump and wiring out of the road salt

[87junker]

Is there a total timing setting any one is using? Sounds like I'm having timing/vacuum issues. I'll get into the distributor to see if its sticking but now that u say that it may be my problem u can feel when it kicks in. Kind of like a powerband kicks in on a dirtbike.

[geezer101]

Could be the vac advance is toast. I haven't been able to find a used distributor with a good vac advance. I think when I get around to installing the 34 DATA, I might use a 4G64 distributor and eliminate vacuum from the equation...

[87junker]

My over cooling issue was easy to fix. 21232

[Giovanni89]

new vacuum advance units are only 20 or 30 bucks, and are easy to change out. Looks like a fail safe thermostat. Must have gotten warm enough to jam it open.
I'm remembering back now, didn't you replace the entire distributor? Doesn't mean it's working properly tho.

[87junker]

new vacuum advance units are only 20 or 30 bucks, and are easy to change out. Looks like a fail safe thermostat. Must have gotten warm enough to jam it open.
I'm remembering back now, didn't you replace the entire distributor? Doesn't mean it's working properly tho.

Yes I'm on distributor #2 first one the icm died after 100 miles. I've got a little bit of warranty left on it. And it was a fail safe. First one I've had actually stuck open.

[87junker]

I'm gonna try and get into the distributor and determine if its sticking first and trying tweaking the timing.

[87junker]

It's been running pretty good the last couple days "knock on wood" if I just drive it and not baby the throttle it does ok. It only leans out at a constant speed.

[87junker]

Went up to a 145 main jet on the primary and a 150 on the secondary and it ran better not too bad lean and maintained speed better.

[87junker]

And went back down to a 60 primary idle jet.

[87junker]

So far so good it runs much better. I'm hoping one I get the timing dialed in I'll be done with getting it to run better and I can go back modifying things on it. It still wants to diesel when I shut it off. Once I get that cleared up I'm gonna work on building some bumpers front and rear.

[Giovanni89]

big beefy winch mount bumpers? :grin: I like where you're taking this truck

[87junker]

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to keep the spacer/adapter plates for a weber from getting loose I have developed a vacuum leak either between the bottom or middle or hell the bottom of the carb. But its making a good squealing sound and the starting fluid test makes it rev right up.

[87junker]

Any i made my own gaskets out of supposedly fuel resistant gasket material. They look saturated.

[geezer101]

Try using stainless steel studs/bolts. They have a sharper thread cut. Probably need a little loctite on the threads too.

[Giovanni89]

I used loctite. I made my gaskets for the carb spacer out of, the cardboard box that my intake manifold gasket came in... I was commuting 200 miles a day while in the process of moving and developed a vacuum leak on the adapter. The only card stock I had was that box, and it had a shiny printed surface on one side. It's been in there over 50k miles now. A healthy dose of permatex indian head gasket shellac on the gasket and mating surface, and some loctite on the fasteners worked for me. I took my adapter off and discovered that over torquing the fasteners had warped the adapter plate. I sanded it on a flat surface plate while I had it apart. Tractor supply usually has a cellulose paper gasket material in a roll in the tractor parts area. Cellulose paper is what you want. The rubberized fuel safe gasket material I haven't had good luck with.

[87junker]

Just a little update. Did u guys know that if u don't scrape the old gasket off the bottom of the carb u will get a vacuum leak in that exact spot. ** sarcasm** So yeah found my vacuum leak so now I'm back up and running with out an awesome reed valve sound.

[Giovanni89]

You'll probably be playing with the jet sizing again. I'm curious if it pulls harder on the highway now?

[87junker]

Took it to the farm and it did good still need to lean it back out on idle. But other than that its probably running good enough for me. The 4x4 works really good.

[87junker]

Found a bumper that I'm gonna try and transplant on the MM.

21291
21294

[geezer101]

Woah that is a serious piece of metal. Anyone stupid enough to brake check you with that thing bolted up is in for a bad day.

[87junker]

I can't wait to get it on. I'm gonna add a stinger and shackle mounts to it.

[tortron]

Nice, skid plate too?

[BradMph]

Nice bumper for sure. Nothing like showing that one in a rear view mirror. lol

21298

[pennyman1]

too bad that hangs down so low - negates the lift on the truck...

[BradMph]

too bad that hangs down so low - negates the lift on the truck...

Very true, Almost looks like a locomotive snow thrower like that.

[87junker]

Nice, skid plate too?

I need to come up with some sort of skid plates in the front and for underneath. All the important stuff is vulnerable.

[87junker]

Well I'm gonna have to build some brackets to make it fit the frame rails. It's about 5 inches wider than an s-10.
21323

[geezer101]

Are the mounts welded on or bolted? If they were bolted on you could possibly swap from either side and add a spacer plate or shim etc. Should bring it close.

[87junker]

I welded up some brackets to day and got it mounted. Still need to figure out how to mount my turn signals. It's not ready for any winching yet I need to add a few gussets for strength. I think with a little bit of tweaking I can straighten it up. It definitely wasn't built straight but I'll make it work.

21328

21329

21330

[geezer101]

A tweak or 2 and a couple of hits with a mallet with bring it into shape. Have mercy on any fool that ends up on the receiving end of that bumper. Jeez this thing is lethal...

[87junker]

It looked the the po hit something with it on the drivers side. The center section is solid but the outside is kinda flimsy.

[87junker]

Haven't been driving it much lately since I've got a company truck I figured I'd better start it up an clear the snow off. It started right up it was a little cold natured til the choke opened but ran fine after that.

[Giovanni89]

Any plans for a small winch on that beast of a bumper?

[tortron]

A decent come a long would pull one of these trucks out of anything ;)
A couple of pulleys and strops and you should be set up for most anything.

I have ideas for a rear mounted winch. Or maybe actually just keep a come a long under the tray with some tools

[87junker]

Haha I was in a raffle for a winch from a local 4x4 shop I was hoping to win. But probably gonna get a harbor freight special. Probably after the holidays I'll get it. And may have a chance to go test it out while clearing old logging roads on the farm.

[geezer101]

Haha I was in a raffle for a winch from a local 4x4 shop I was hoping to win. But probably gonna get a harbor freight special. Probably after the holidays I'll get it. And may have a chance to go test it out while clearing old logging roads on the farm.

A good quality used gadget will always trump a cheap new one :thumbup: Might be worth your while to rebuild an old one...

[87junker]

21405

21406

Bought a winch and some lights for turn signals and hopefully I'll have it all on and and my stinger hoop welded on this weekend.

[87junker]

21418

Got my winch and stinger installed.

[geezer101]

You plan on using your truck for rescue retrievals? That is some serious gear :thumbup:

[87junker]

I just plan on tinkering around the farm clearing old logging roads and not getting stuck.

[tortron]

Very cool dude. Makes the dealer option bull bars we had over here look like match sticks

[Giovanni89]

You could give discount prostate exams with that thing too, you know, to help pay for new parts and stuff :lmao:

[Giovanni89]

Oh, and it looks bad ass! :thumbup:

[87junker]

My wife says it looks obnoxious and I said I know I love it.

[geezer101]

Some jackass in an SUV is going to back into it and take out their rear window :lmao:I'd opt for function over form any day of the week...

[87junker]

21423

It sticks out a little bit. I definitely get a lot of funny looks going down the roaroad.

[tortron]

A bit like a reverse tow truck!
Run some cordage from the hoop up to your headache bar. It'll lift up any tree limbs on the trail as you drive through

[87junker]

21430

21431

Got a chance to do a wheeling in the woods. This little truck did awesome. Sloppy mud all the way up the hill dodging ruts (2 foot deep) the whole way. Just wish I had a little more clearance tagged a rock with the lower a arm. Center skid plates are already in the works. I'm definitely going to be installing an electric fan. Never pegged the gauge but to high for comfort.

[2nup350]

2nup350 did I see a YouTube video on this.
Naw, just these pics.

[Giovanni89]

She has come a long way in a short time :thumbup:

[87junker]

Still having some issues with timing. Especially when its cold. Seems like I'm having some kind of issue with vacuum advance.

[Giovanni89]

Try disconnecting the vacuum advance and watch with a timing light as you rev the engine. Cold weather is here, maybe they used a heavy grease when lubing the fly weights in the distributor and it's sticking? Once warmed up things will move a bit easier. A handheld vacuum pump to check the vacuum advance will let you do the same thing.

[87junker]

I got to mess with it a little this evening. With vac line disconnected holding it at 2k rpm it barely moved to about 6-7 btdc. On idle it was at 5. With the line hooked up it's at 5* btdc. Holding it @ 2k rpm it was at 30+ btdc. Even after it warmed up really good it still tries to hiccup and backfire thru the carb. I feel like its advancing way too much.

[87junker]

Any tips on how to reduce advanced timing?

[Giovanni89]

I think you have two problems but let others chime in as well. At 2k rpm i believe you should be seeing more advance from the mechanical advance. Base timing should be 7 degrees, at least on my 89. I believe your mechanical advance may be sticking. 30 seems a bit high for the vacuum advance, especially if your mechanical isn't engaging. When I replaced my distributor this summer, it was listed as working with a ram 50 or starion. The vacuum advance unit that came on the distributor was pulling way too much advance causing all kinds of pinging under light cruise. I had a new vacuum advance unit and I swapped it out and it was fine after that. There were numbers stamped on the arm of the vacuum advance unit. The distributor I believe came with a "12" and the new one I had on the shelf I believe was stamped "10". I'm guessing it's mm of pull, but I'm not sure. Someone on here who knows mitsubishis better than myself may have better technical information than that.
I would start by disassembling the distributor. Mark the gear with witness marks before pulling it off the shaft so that it goes back on the same way.
Check the mechanical advance linkage for any binding or scoring. Also, see if there are any numbers stamped on your vacuum unit. I'll see if I can dig mine out in the garage to confirm the numbers.

[87junker]

5* is where I've got it to run the best. I'll definitely take a look to see if I can find any numbers stamped on it.

[Giovanni89]

I suspect it runs best at 5 degrees because the vacuum is over advancing it. The arm on the one that did not work was stamped 11.5 I measured the travel at 5mm, so i'm not sure what the 11.5 means. Maybe corresponds to a vacuum level to make it actuate? I may pull my distributor tomorrow to replace the distributor drive gear on the cam. I have been meaning to put it in for a little while now. If I do I'll pop off the vacuum unit and see what the numbers are that are stamped on the one that works well.

[geezer101]

I suspect it runs best at 5 degrees because the vacuum is over advancing it. The arm on the one that did not work was stamped 11.5 I measured the travel at 5mm, so i'm not sure what the 11.5 means. Maybe corresponds to a vacuum level to make it actuate? I may pull my distributor tomorrow to replace the distributor drive gear on the cam. I have been meaning to put it in for a little while now. If I do I'll pop off the vacuum unit and see what the numbers are that are stamped on the one that works well.

Is it the counterweights' actual weight in grams? :shrug:

[Giovanni89]

2150921510
Not the best shots, but you can see the numbers stamped on the arm. When I installed my new distributor it ran like crap. Check to see if you have any numbers stamped on yours. 11.5 was no good. 10 runs great. Luckily I had the new advance unit sitting on the shelf. I had planned on overhauling the original dizzy, but I had a ton of wear in the mechanical advance that was more trouble than the cost of a new one.

[geezer101]

Ah, ok. It's not what I thought - it's the servo linkage. Nup, doesn't help. Still haven't got a clue what it translates to...

[87junker]

I will definitely pop mine open to check it.

[87junker]

21529

Looks like 11.5 to me. Any suggestions where to find a 10?

[Giovanni89]

Mine was from rock auto. Standard Motor Products VC268. About 15 bucks.

[87junker]

21662

My next project as soon as I get a free minute to install.

[geezer101]

21662

My next project as soon as I get a free minute to install.

Say goodbye to overheating...

[87junker]

21770

Only had a little bit of daylight to tinker this evening.

[Giovanni89]

Any luck getting your vacuum advance solenoid?

[87junker]

It's the next project on my list been cold and nasty and too many other priorities right now. But I will definitely let u know how it goes.

[87junker]

https://youtu.be/SF5GuW6QkZc


https://youtu.be/7r_ml1-x2ik

Finished wiring up the new electric fan. Everything seems to be working good. Gonna test drive it tomorrow to make sure. Seems to be moving some good air.

[87junker]

The old junker did great today. Usually by time I get to the farm (45 min drive) and go to climb the hill it's always running hot when i get to the top. Today it was still normal temp and stayed normal while pulled my brothers jeep Cherokee out of the mud. All without shutting it off to let it cool down. But I did find I'm in need of some rear tow or anchor points for sure.

[Giovanni89]

I think you need to upgrade her status from junker to beater :thumbup:

[geezer101]

The old junker did great today. Usually by time I get to the farm (45 min drive) and go to climb the hill it's always running hot when i get to the top. Today it was still normal temp and stayed normal while pulled my brothers jeep Cherokee out of the mud. All without shutting it off to let it cool down. But I did find I'm in need of some rear tow or anchor points for sure.

Your truck is in a woeful state - and it still pulled a Jeep out of trouble... says lot don't it :)

[87junker]

Your truck is in a woeful state - and it still pulled a Jeep out of trouble... says lot don't it :)


Its come a long way since I got it.

[geezer101]

Its come a long way since I got it.

..and it's only now I've noticed you are already on PAGE 10 of your thread :shock:

[87junker]

..and it's only now I've noticed you are already on PAGE 10 of your thread :shock:


Well I believe I've jinxed myself..

[Giovanni89]

Uh oh?

[87junker]

Transmission issues. I hoping it's the throw out bearing. Took it on the interstate since it was running good and a few mile of running 70 it started making a loud chattering noise.