And so it begins...

[RipperXX]

https://i.imgur.com/DKlTkov.jpg?2
https://i.imgur.com/m0u55Wp.jpg?2

Just love seeing crap like this. But, it works for now. I hope I can find the proper fasteners.
https://i.imgur.com/3NDtKQk.jpg?2
https://i.imgur.com/YfYKNhC.jpg?2

Yay, new headlights, maybe now I can see at night.
https://i.imgur.com/K8DvEWi.jpg?2

[tortron]

Hows your wiring connections and earths?

[pennyman1]

would not be surprised if the headlight sockets are bad - easy fix - may be worth changing then to get the best connection

[RipperXX]

https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Mitsubishi-Clips-And-Fasteners-s/70.htm

About half way down the page it looks like I found them. $10 and some change for a package of 25, That should be a lifetime supply for this vehicle and the Talon.

[RipperXX]

would not be surprised if the headlight sockets are bad - easy fix - may be worth changing then to get the best connection

Time will tell, plugged them in and turned them on, soooo much better than 2 busted lights with 1 some how miraculously working with water in it?

[geezer101]

.....

[geezer101]

Time will tell, plugged them in and turned them on, soooo much better than 2 busted lights with 1 some how miraculously working with water in it?
If I ever end up with water in my tail lights, I'm putting plastic fish in them:fishblue:

You didn't want to opt for semi sealed with H4 inserts? My reasoning is the H4 globes are readily available off the shelf and you can always keep a couple of spares in the glove box.

[RipperXX]

This was fun?
https://i.imgur.com/RFn5npe.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/7KgZWCR.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/C4uXFGe.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/47vF1Yj.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/nVfCjH5.jpg?1
Didn't spot any obvious vac leaks. Didn't have time to work on adjusting the clutch cable or checking the parking break as thoroughly as i'd like to have. But I did note that the cables are moving and everything looks to be in working order for the parking break, yet, no parking break. So I assume it also need adjusting OR the pads are are so worn, or something funky is going on inside the rear drum brakes.

Did get the turning signal that wasn't working, working, without spending a dime. Just had to clean the contacts!

Also, what's the diaphragm go too?
https://i.imgur.com/SDMYtbN.jpg?2

[pennyman1]

Looks like the EGR valve that isn't connected to vacuum. Not an issue if its not stuck open.

[RipperXX]

Looks like the EGR valve that isn't connected to vacuum. Not an issue if its not stuck open.

If that's what it is, I may at some point make a block off plate just, for assurance.

[geezer101]

LOL I was having acid flashbacks when I saw the engine being hauled off the tray. I got mine as a non-runner and the PO put the engine (well, most of it) on a shipping pallet and dumped it in the tray. But that is by far the filthiest G63B I have ever seen. I can imagine it being cut from a wreck from the Fury Road movie set.

[RipperXX]

At work right now. Does anyone know how to adjust the clutch cable? Is it possible to do in a parking lot over the course of a half hour for a first timer?

[LSR Mike]

Real easy, there is a adjuster nut on the firewall inside the engine compartment. you do have a manual? if not, then...

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/811-Over-216-Manuals-2nd-Gen-Manual-inside

[royster]

At work right now. Does anyone know how to adjust the clutch cable? Is it possible to do in a parking lot over the course of a half hour for a first timer?

It takes meer moments! The clutch cable can be seen coming through the firewall, as LSR Mike says. Tightening that large nut, while holding the cable, shouldn't take but a few minutes, from hood open to hood closed :)

20122

[RipperXX]

Sweet, well got it adjusted over the last break of the day. Pulled it into the shop since it's raining and grabbed some channel locks. Now she's engaging about 2" off the floor instead of almost at the top of the pedal.


Now...how does one adjust the parking brake? The cables are moving but I can push the truck around easily.

[tortron]

Similar job, slip under the truck and you will find each cable has a nut adjustment near the cab end (1st gens have the cables join together and have 1 adjustment, 2nd gen uses 2 separate cables)

But first i would jack up the rear and manually adjust the brake shoes. The star adjusters often gum up (they are supposed to self adjust when you brake in reverse). in the 2nd gen diff they are located at the top of the backing plate.
There will be a slot there, which should have a rectangular rubber bung in it.
take a flat head screwdriver and you can move the toothed wheel manually (you will need 2 screwdrivers if you want to loosen off the brake shoes as there is a lever in there which keeps it in place)

If you adjust the wheel until the shoes start to drag when the wheel is spun you should be about right

[RipperXX]

So I assume you're talking about this gear?
https://i.imgur.com/GTeZL5K.jpg?1
Couldn't do much with it but did notice once I set the break then it couldn't turn the wheel by hand, however the truck will still roll down a steep hill. And it seems to be the only one working at all. The other one, I couldn't see/ find the cog/gear??? Pretty sure it's there but for whatever reason couldn't see it. Anyway...

So soon as I got to work, parked and shut off the engine I thought.. hmm I'll park somewhere more flat. Turned the key and all power went bye bye. Okay....probably those very poor connections at the battery. I addressed the connections to the terminals but not yet the wiring to the connector.
https://i.imgur.com/Ty64TO0.jpg?1
Yeah this corroded crap has got to be dealt with. I don't have the proper connectors to do it the way I would like to, but I can do better than THIS!

So I trimmed the wires back to some, somewhat clean wire, twisted, cleaned off the corrosion on the area of the connector the wiring sits in.
https://i.imgur.com/ecL7WFM.jpg?1

And to give it some protection from water, o2 and thus corrosion for the time begin, dipped it in some very water resistant grease.
https://i.imgur.com/MoR81a7.jpg?1

And secured everything far better than it was.
https://i.imgur.com/1QCF5jf.jpg?1

Also got a lot of debrie out of the bed or as some of you call it tray? Going to have to work on the latch some, I have to use a flat head screw driver to push the locks into the tail gate. Previous idiot owner had a fuel line just dangling under the truck so low I could see a shadow of it the night I brought it home from my wife's car's headlights. For the moment I zip tied that all up much better, but this weekend I'll have to re-route it because it's going between the body and the frame which is stupid.

[RipperXX]

Also, curious, what's the normal area of the coolant temp gauge the needle resides once at operating temp? I'm thinking this is a bit low for half an hour of driving. So either the engine is being over cooled, or the sensor, wiring or gauge isn't reading correctly.
https://i.imgur.com/wCEUJ2v.jpg?1

Wouldn't be to surprised at this point if the previous owner removed the thermostat or something stupid like that.

[RipperXX]

Also, working on making a battery hold down. Unfortunately I didn't think to measure the distance between the posts and it's going to need some trimming as it's to wide. I may just toss this one and do another, only took a couple min to make. Apparently it needs to be no more than 3" long by 5" wide. I just measured the width and thought there was enough room but this comes pretty close to touching both posts and well, that could cause a less than desirable outcome...

https://i.imgur.com/tPPxjY1.jpg

[royster]

Man, RipperXX, you sure got your hands full! But you're doing terrific and with a very good attitude. Many of these trucks get sold because the previous owner just stopped maintaining them...yours' is a good example.

Regarding the temp gauge - that's where mine reads at operating temperature, after a reaching almost half way before the thermostat opens. It would be a good idea to look into the system, but at present, I doubt you're getting false readings.

On the emergency brake - my experience was that the hand brake worked a whole lot better when the rear brakes were rebuilt. RockAuto has the entire spectrum of parts needed for these truckls, and I completely rebuilt mine for about $80.00.

Removing the rear drums requires two 10 MM bolts, don't try to beat the drums to death getting them off. A quick inspection is a good idea, and you'll know what's going on back there.

Great photos, thanks for keeping us abreast of your progress, and I send all the encouragement I can !

[geezer101]

I see a full brake rebuild in your future (pretty much the first thing I look at when embarking on an act of stupidity, err, journey of discovery I mean...) I'd just notch your bespoke battery clamp where the terminals are and go with it (a bit better than an elastic tie down strap :rolleyes:) The bad thing is your truck is probably going to need...the everything, but the upside is at least it'll be rock solid if you're thorough :thumbup:

[RipperXX]

Things left to fix in order of significance to OP.

Parking brake
Change oil/filter since who knows how old it is.
Oil leak from distributor
Battery hold down
Fuel hose routing
Verify there are no vacuum leaks
Replace garbage wiring
Replace windshield wipers
Get tag lights working
Re-jet carburetor possibly replace with Webber
Inspect and replace timing belt and components if need be. As well as balance shaft belt.
remove any unused connections, wires and hoses.
Replace passenger side door
Repair or replace bench seat.
Replace seatbelts since I'm unsure if the recall has been performed.
Replace tail gate
Replace cracked windshield
Repair small spot in the bed/tray near the tail gate where it's damaged / hole
Replace rear passenger side tail light housing (got a hole in it)
Rebuild transmission
Replace shocks
Consider painting it myself?

Enjoy?

[tortron]

Nice little refresh there.
Should be able to keep using it through most of that too.

Looking at that brake picture, the internals look pretty gummed up. so probably worth taking the drums off and checking for oil or brake fluid leaks too. I redid the diff i swapped in recently, was very cheap with parts from rockauto (even with international shipping i can get basically every part for the price of a set of brake shoes over here)

[RipperXX]

Didn't have much free time at work today to work on the battery hold down. But I made some progress. Chopped it to size and located some J bolts in my shop. Thinking I may want to use gussets for the ears the bolts will go through so it's nice and strong. This isn't how it's going to look btw. Just looking at materials (scrap) here and brain storming.

https://i.imgur.com/JXUbyTZ.jpg?1

Looking at the fit to get a better idea of what to do about the ears, should be easy.
https://i.imgur.com/COvg6he.jpg?2

Also clips came in today for the grille.
https://i.imgur.com/GDzUklG.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/O3tJQEO.jpg?1

[RipperXX]

Also on the way home I noticed a Mitsubishi Mighty Max that's been sitting for about a year. Supposedly has a cracked cyl head but didn't look to bad. Asked the guy how much he wanted for it, said he would have to think about it but he was fine with selling it as it's not doing him any good sitting there. If he will let it go cheap, oh boy would it be funny if I could just jerk the head off this other engine that I got with my truck slap it on and it be derivable too.

[geezer101]

Some jobs that look like they're in the 'too hard' basket can be a cake walk opportunity for someone else. A running truck for next to no outlay except for maybe a weekend and some gaskets? I'd be up for that :grin:

[RipperXX]

Someone on one of the DSM forums was telling me the engine I got in the bed of the truck is actually the G54? (off to do research...may actually walk up to the shop and look at the engine block for the code. But It was BARELY still visible on the G63B.
g54b

g54b

[geezer101]

...it's a 4G63 (G63B) engine. Carb paired port intake manifold + plastic timing cover is the give away. And you can be sure it's a RWD mounted engine by the pulleys, the water pump and the fact the thermostat housing is located at the timing belt end of the engine.

*it's also the updated engine by the design of the intake manifold.

[RipperXX]

Did a bit of research last night and also noted the 4G54/G54B uses a timing chain, not a belt. So yeah definately the G63B/sohc 4G63. My father's going to give me an old engine stand, I think I'll crack her open and see what shape it's in this summer. Having two engines assuming theirs nothing wrong with this one will be neat for sure.

[RipperXX]

https://i.imgur.com/LXhw61S.jpg

At work on my cell so I can't resize and post the pictures but here's a link to the hold down, just finished and installed it. Now I just have to change the oil and filter before my son's soccer practice when I get home.

[geezer101]

The toughest battery clamp I've ever seen. You can barrel roll that sucker all day and I can guarantee it's not going anywhere. Nice work :thumbup:

[RipperXX]

The toughest battery clamp I've ever seen. You can barrel roll that sucker all day and I can guarantee it's not going anywhere. Nice work :thumbup:

Thanks!

Now that I'm home I'll post the resized pic for the lazy people, because, clicking is hard.
https://i.imgur.com/ZV9QbV3.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/LXhw61S.jpg?1



Also took a moment after changing the oil to wipe a few things down with a gasoline soaked rag.
https://i.imgur.com/nLp4zqn.jpg?1

[RipperXX]

I just realized since the the flywheel on the engine in the truck is missing teeth somewhere, (since it happens every once in a while I have to push the truck and pop the clutch to get it to turn past the damged area) I can probably just take the flywheel and or maybe clutch if its in better condition off the G63B I got with the truck and toss them on the one in the truck! (assuming it's got all it's teeth). Hopefully, because that would be another practically free repair! ( I love those)

[RipperXX]

Any idea where I could order a replacement hood proper clip and the grommet thing that holds it in at the bottom?

[geezer101]

A cleaning tip - use *non caustic oven cleaner. It's cleaner to work with, makes short work of engine bay gunk, is usually cheaper than spray on degreaser and doesn't leave an EPA coloured rainbow running down your driveway. One can is enough to do an engine bay. Spray it on, break it up with a brush and hose it off (better if you have a pressure cleaner). I would go through a couple of cans of degreaser to get similar results. Safe enough to spray on your hands without ruining them (or them stinking like kerosene afterwards - and it's awesome for cleaning your hands with after working on a dirty engine)

*Can't stress this point enough - make sure it's non caustic oven cleaner. The caustic based stuff will destroy all in it's path - paint, plastic, wiring, rubber, alloy... the non caustic stuff is safe enough to spray straight on your hands as I mentioned earlier.

[royster]

Geezer - I took the liberty of posting this on Why Didn't I Think Of That ?

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2954-Why-didn-t-I-Think-Of-That?p=59901&viewfull=1#post59901

As always, your expertise is appreciated.

[geezer101]

Thanks Roy. It's one of those things I randomly post up around the site. And as with all advice, you gotta take it with a pinch of salt (and a healthy tablespoon of skepticism). I could've saved myself a ton of effort if I knew about the oven cleaner trick, the diesel engine flush looked like a sure fire way to blow the bottom end of an engine to pieces in 2 minutes but it works brilliantly, and my engine tuning tip - well, I discovered this after a frustrating experience with a car I had a while ago. I'm waiting to get some feedback on that tip but from what I gained out of it was literally like finding out you've been driving with a dragging hand brake...

[RipperXX]

Anyone know where I can find the clip and grommet for the hood prop? Also, anyone know what the RWD, 5 speed 4G...G63B trucks weighed?

[geezer101]

Anyone know where I can find the clip and grommet for the hood prop? Also, anyone know what the RWD, 5 speed 4G...G63B trucks weighed?

4,045 lbs/1,835 kgs. Allegedly from my online search. but I'm sure the base model RWD truck weighed in about 1215 kgs which is more believable.

[geezer101]

Oh, as for the hood support, I'm seriously looking at these for my own truck (might require modifying the installation) -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Hood-Bonnet-Gas-Lift-Supports-Shock-Strut-Damper-For-Toyota-Hilux-Vigo-SR5/372149542815?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.M BE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D50073%26meid%3D79ca5854dd5d48e 8bb99a1c012806a42%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D 6%26sd%3D122868692059%26itm%3D372149542815&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

...or pretty red ones -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Front-Hood-Bonnet-Gas-Shocks-Strut-Damper-Lift-Kit-For-Toyota-Hilux-2005-12/372211643048?epid=4014244018&hash=item56a98af2a8:g:ZzkAAOSwTIhadEMR&vxp=mtr

[tortron]

Ha, I was looking at the same thing today. Even got the measuring tape out

[RipperXX]

Oh, as for the hood support, I'm seriously looking at these for my own truck (might require modifying the installation) -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Hood-Bonnet-Gas-Lift-Supports-Shock-Strut-Damper-For-Toyota-Hilux-Vigo-SR5/372149542815?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.M BE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D50073%26meid%3D79ca5854dd5d48e 8bb99a1c012806a42%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D 6%26sd%3D122868692059%26itm%3D372149542815&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

...or pretty red ones -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Front-Hood-Bonnet-Gas-Shocks-Strut-Damper-Lift-Kit-For-Toyota-Hilux-2005-12/372211643048?epid=4014244018&hash=item56a98af2a8:g:ZzkAAOSwTIhadEMR&vxp=mtr

While I'm sure I could make those work. I like the KISS (Keep it stupid simple) nature of this truck. Those gas struts always eventually fail. A metal rod, not so much. I may just have to take my best guess and order some for a Ford, Toyota or GM product that look like a very close match.

[jamesw]

Oh, as for the hood support, I'm seriously looking at these for my own truck (might require modifying the installation) -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Hood-Bonnet-Gas-Lift-Supports-Shock-Strut-Damper-For-Toyota-Hilux-Vigo-SR5/372149542815?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.M BE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D50073%26meid%3D79ca5854dd5d48e 8bb99a1c012806a42%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D 6%26sd%3D122868692059%26itm%3D372149542815&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

...or pretty red ones -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Front-Hood-Bonnet-Gas-Shocks-Strut-Damper-Lift-Kit-For-Toyota-Hilux-2005-12/372211643048?epid=4014244018&hash=item56a98af2a8:g:ZzkAAOSwTIhadEMR&vxp=mtr
this is wild i bought some struts about a month ago for my delta toolbox that didn't fit right. so i got to thinking about attaching them to my hood and now here you guys are talking about doing the same thing. i just need to figure out how to mount them they are 9 inch struts and from what i have seen by placing them in there it will work. just need the pins that the struts attach to. i,m going to be watching this to see what else you guys .come up with.

just found this
http://lstechnologies.ca/products/brackets-mounts/10mm-steel-brackets/
better yet
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=10mm+Steel+Ball+Brackets&_sacat=0

[geezer101]

Everything mechanical is prone to failure... but it would be good to pop the hood and not have a metal rod barring you from full access around the engine bay. And the hood rod has a tendency to rattle when the grommet and/or rod anchor clip comes apart. If the 2 gas strut assemblies I added links to are generic parts then at some point I won't be needing to replace the mounting pins and brackets, just the struts. And I do agree with you, why complicate something by adding a potentially weak link? And then you start digging into the bones of these trucks - brakes aren't great, cooling system will cut it up to a point, lighting is crap when you need it, electrics don't like accessories added to them. You get the picture. Don't get me wrong, the MM's and related trucks do their funky thing admirably - but there's scope for improvement. End rant :)

[GPD294]

Anyone know where I can find the clip and grommet for the hood prop? Also, anyone know what the RWD, 5 speed 4G...G63B trucks weighed?

If you happen to find that grommet somewhere please let us know. I have searched my local auto parts stores to make something work, but I haven't found anything and since my PU doesn't have it anymore I don't even know what it looked like originally.

[jamesw]

If you happen to find that grommet somewhere please let us know. I have searched my local auto parts stores to make something work, but I haven't found anything and since my PU doesn't have it anymore I don't even know what it looked like originally.
here is what i found i think i,m going to try and make something that will work. there are all kinds of possibility's here at least it's a starting point.
http://www.siraweb.com/filterSearch?q=bracket

[RipperXX]

Is a part missing!? I can't tell for sure but it's as if there is. It looks as if the cables are adjusted about as far as they can be. and adjusting the rachet piece in the hub much results in not being able to put the drum back on. Which BTW since it hasn't been off in several years I'm sure holy crap! I had a greaking go-devil tapping it pretty hard with a propane torch heating the drum near the axle/hub until the thing was hot enough with my gloves on it was uncomfortable to touch the wheel studs to turn it when it finally broke lose. I was about ready to just go hulk on it and say "screw it, if it breaks I don't think drums are that expensive". Luckily it broke lose before that point because I spent over an hour I'm sure on just getting the drum off.

Here's pics of the cables and brakes.
https://i.imgur.com/vY9EB74.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/qrmVxDx.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/je15fGr.jpg?1
To me, I don't understand how when the cables pulled, and pulling that large lever/arm forward is supposed to spread the shoes, because it just has the one pivot point it's on at the top, it comes forward contacts the rachet lever/release lever? and they both go forward but that's it.....they don't do anything near as I can tell. What the heck?
https://i.imgur.com/eqE4J3L.jpg?1

[tortron]

Looks like you will need new cables if they are stretched right out.
I don't see anything missing, there's an exploded diagram in the manual on here that you can check

[RipperXX]

They can stretch???

[RipperXX]

Well, I'm not seeing them listed on RockAuto... any source for the cables? BTW part of the reason I thought something is wrong is it looks like the spring that returns the cables in the drum is, or is nearly fully compressed.

[RipperXX]

(never mind over looked the cable on RockAuto. Still... I find it hard to believe a steel braided cable can stretch to such a point.. and I want to see if that spring on the cable in the rear drum is actually fully compressed or just looks like it. If it is... I don't see how the cable is the problem.

[tortron]

They will be listed. Try a different year. There's no difference in the 2nd gen ones (for 2wd at least)

[tortron]

Yeah the cables do stretch, I even have a cable pre stretcher for smaller ones. Maybe they have been fully tightened up because the star adjusters were not working. You could clean the springs etc up with brake cleaner. Back the cables right off, adjust the shoes correctly, then re adjust the cables.


The front cable can also stretch

[RipperXX]

Yeah the cables do stretch, I even have a cable pre stretcher for smaller ones. Maybe they have been fully tightened up because the star adjusters were not working. You could clean the springs etc up with brake cleaner. Back the cables right off, adjust the shoes correctly, then re adjust the cables.


The front cable can also stretch

I'll give that a try before ordering them. (Not sure why I didn't think of that)...probably because this old tech is new to me! Also front cables??? What? I thought they front were just regular hydraulic disk brakes....now I'm curious wth?

[RipperXX]

Wait... no that wont work...I already adjusted the brakes to the point any further and the drum wont go on. When I pull the parking brake cable the shoes don't move. I'll have to come up with some sort of way to take slack out of the cable or order new ones. Based on the bed length apparently.

[tortron]

There is a third, front, cable from the handbrake to the 2 rears

It does sound like you will need new cables. Does the pivot at the front move freely when you pull the lever? Probably they are stretched right out and the slack isn't being taken up before the lever tops out?

[tortron]

You should set the brake shoes with the drums on too

[geezer101]

*install drums first. The brakes are self adjusting. More than likely the cables are completely stretched. You may be able to put a spacer or shim in there somewhere to take up the slack - take a good look at the cable layout and you will be able to find a safe spot to shim it that won't cause the cable to bind or drop out.

[RipperXX]

I ordered the front cable, and both rear cables. Bed is 72" / 105" wheel base so I ordered those cables. As well as new shoes and pads for the front and new rear wheel cylinders, since they're cheap enough I don't see much value in rebuilding them as cheap as they were. I also got to poking around under the hood more, got some questions as well as showing some retarded shit.

Like this...What kind of fuses go here? Because this is just dumb.
https://i.imgur.com/2TVHcKk.jpg?1

What's the blue plug(s) for? What circuit? They wouldn't reach without messing with stuff so I figured I'd ask before trying to connect an unknown wire.
https://i.imgur.com/Mu44Rrs.jpg?1

What's this big plug ugh supposed to go too?
https://i.imgur.com/XAKIsNh.jpg?1

What the hell is this? Has nipples for vac lines that are no longer hooked up, but also has an electrical plug and wiring going in the bottom, was unsure if that needed to still be hooked up for anything so I didn't remove it.

https://i.imgur.com/7rB4KpR.jpg?1

Why does a carburetor need electricity? Electric choke? (remember I have never worked with carbs)
https://i.imgur.com/NyeBERh.jpg?1

Why the hell is there an O2 sensor on a carbed engine?????
https://i.imgur.com/DP6doIz.jpg?1

None of this emissions stuff (charcoal canister etc) was hooked up so... bye I keep all those little connectors and stuff though, they come in handy at times!
https://i.imgur.com/fcoKLHZ.jpg?1

[geezer101]

Ah so many questions. That metal box with the vacuum lines is the remanance of the carb control module for the factory Mikuni carb - take it out completely. There are a bunch of electrical connections that hook up to it - ignore them. Those green wires in the fuse block? Those are factory fusible links - don't mess with them unless they are dodgy. The O2 sensor was also for the carb control - use it for an A/F meter :thumbup:

[RipperXX]

Ah so many questions. That metal box with the vacuum lines is the remanance of the carb control module for the factory Mikuni carb - take it out completely. There are a bunch of electrical connections that hook up to it - ignore them. Those green wires in the fuse block? Those are factory fusible links - don't mess with them unless they are dodgy. The O2 sensor was also for the carb control - use it for an A/F meter :thumbup:

Factory fusible links? Also thanks!

[tortron]

Yea bits of wire that burn out like a fuse.
Could replace them with breakers if you were real keen

[RipperXX]

Any idea what this I presume relay is that was stuffed inside the bottom of that silver vac box is for?
https://i.imgur.com/dkSLo6s.jpg?1

Looks better without that junk.
https://i.imgur.com/Rxllt3P.jpg?1

Also...what the hell... are you serious? I was wondering why I couldn't find a coolant temp switch for the fan then I saw this... really?? :shakehead:
https://i.imgur.com/BbtASZX.jpg?1

[RipperXX]

To be clear, I'm asking about that relay because it's still plugged into the wiring harness.

[geezer101]

Best...thermoswitch...install...EVER :slap:. Should've added a warning about deleting the charcoal cannister. It is best to leave it in place as the fuel tank vapours can expand and really need somewhere safe to go, plus it prevents the tank from vapour locking (both from vacuum and expansion). The end results can be unpredictable - truck just dies from sudden fuel starvation, blow a hose or filter from over pressurisation or wreck the carb depending on how hot the weather is, venting gas vapours and EXPLODING which could be a bit inconvenient...

[RipperXX]

I'm aware, but none of it was hooked up anyway so trash it goes. Tank is just vented to atmosphere.

Now I have to figure out what's going on with the rear suspension. The passenger side is about 1 1/8" lower than the drivers side and the leaf springs look like they're more compressed. I'm wondering if it has a cracked leaf spring? Or some idiot put a shorter shock on that side? That's about all that could cause it right?

[RipperXX]

Also any idea where to source a thermoswitch that will go where that bolt is in the water neck near the carb? There's what looks like a 10mm bolt there for a plug? Seems like s perfect spot. And a hell of a lot better than just shoving one between fins in the radiator!:thumbdown:

[geezer101]

You can use a thermo sender switch that is temperature range sensitive, or you can use an adapter and install a fan sender switch in the middle of the bottom radiator hose (requires cutting a small section out of the hose and fitting a joiner. For the fan to work correctly it needs to be tripped off the lowest coolant temperature (either from the bottom tank or from an adapter in the return hose) so it's not running continuously. It will affect the thermostat operation and beat on the battery and alternator if not installed correctly.

[geezer101]

And the leaf springs - could be worn out bushes, the springs could be tired on that side or something more worrying (like chassis damage). If there's a bung in the bottom tank and it's not the defunct trans cooler barbs or the drain plug, could actually be for a sender switch. It will need to be a switch with a 2 pin connection for power and ground.

[RipperXX]

I don't think there's chassis damage. Half the brake parts came today. Shoes, pads and brake cylinders. Just waiting on the cables now.

[RipperXX]

I find myself keeping an eye open for a 4G63 DOHC cylinder head...anyone know if it matters if it's from a 6 bolt or 7 bolt engine? I know there's a difference in the intake ports and head bolt sizes. I think the 7 bolt heads have to have their head bolt passages bored out 1mm to fit on a 6bolt block. No idea about on a G63B block. And Project Zero G seems fairly dead these days, waiting on an account to be approved.

[geezer101]

You are right about the different head bolts. And there's a difference with the main oil return galleries. The story goes that any 4G6X head will bolt to any 4G6X block, as long as they're the same generation it works. If I have got this right - 1G is 6 bolt, 2G is 7 bolt, 3G is transverse head flow. You can mount the twin cam head to the G63B block but there are advantages to using the whole engine. Better oil dispersion, no mucking around with pistons (remember the twin cam pistons have cut outs for the valves) but the drawbacks are having to modify most of the cooling ancillaries (water pump outlet, external coolant pipe, heater connection, thermostat placement...). Hell I'd like to go twin cam NA as well (stand alone ignition, hand made intake manifold with 38/39mm bike carbies and a beast set of stainless headers) and I would want to use my original block just to 'keep it real', but there's a lot of assing around there.

[RipperXX]

Well, IF I do go that route anytime soon (for now we're still in fix it mode) it will be a budget build with the goal of throwing a 14b turbo on it. But we will shelve that for now. Any idea where I can easily find replacement leaf springs as I'm betting that's going to be the cause of the sagging rear passenger corner?

[pennyman1]

airbagit.com / chassis tech has 3" lowering leaf springs for our trucks, or hit the JYs

[RipperXX]

airbagit.com / chassis tech has 3" lowering leaf springs for our trucks, or hit the JYs


Saw lowering spindels and the like but nothing else. Not really interested in needing a compressor on board either?

[t97]

You dont need a compressor for the lowering leafs theyre just sold on a website that mostly sells air ride equipment. They are a mono leaf setup im running them on my max and they ride a little bit squishy to me but its expected being mono. No notch is needed but you will have to trim the bump stops to have rear suspension travel.

[RipperXX]

I'm not really interested in lowering the truck, at least not right now. I do appreciate bringing them up as an option though. I wasn't thinking about it.

[RipperXX]

Well burned the first tank of fuel, checked the mileage, burned 10.62 gallons in 215 miles, so 20.24mpg. Originally rated at 26mpg highway. I haven't been hausing it around or anything, hell I drive 55mph to work and back. So I agree it's in need of a smaller jet in the carb.

Also about the coolant temp. I let it keep running while I refueled this morning and noticed the coolant temp had moved a good bit closer to where I'd expect it to be and dropped as soon as I started moving again. This makes me think the thermostat is either one of those dumb low temp units, or stuck open. And since the heater gets little more than warm, I'm thinking that re-affirms the suspicion. I'll be buying a 192* unit and gaskets on the way home.

[geezer101]

Everyone skipped over the wires on the carb. Yes, it is an electric choke. Same/similar function as the electric choke on the Weber carbs. Much simpler to adjust and more reliable than the wax pellet/water choke the stock Mikuni utilised.

[RipperXX]

https://i.imgur.com/1ksAKWL.jpg?1
I know you're in there!!

https://i.imgur.com/DOnzkQ8.jpg?1
HAH! I got you you stupid out of spec garbage!
https://i.imgur.com/yaVbCT9.jpg?1
Obliciatory Made in U.S.A. picture.
https://i.imgur.com/udi0yjf.jpg?1
This is more like it.
https://i.imgur.com/10huESe.jpg?1
But I can't put it back with these dirty bolts.
https://i.imgur.com/eydc0NV.jpg?1
Handy again, it is!
https://i.imgur.com/7rPIIDR.jpg?1
That's more like it!
https://i.imgur.com/cSDg47p.jpg?1
When in doubt... 14 ft/lb.
https://i.imgur.com/vyOJJQB.jpg?1
That's more like it!
https://i.imgur.com/uzBCaKU.jpg?1


I think the brake cables should be here tomorrow. I also don't think the electric fan conversion works, temp needle started to move just right of center so I shut it down since the fan hadn't come on yet. I'll jump some power straight to it's leads and see if the fan even works tomorrow.

[RipperXX]

Wish this forum had an edit post option... that one huge pic wasn't... ah never mind.

[royster]

Looks terrific, Ripper !

For a $10 or so donation to the forum...to keep us online (we're self-supporting )...you will get the edit function, and a few other perks. AND you get a MightyRam50 sticker for your back window :)

[pennyman1]

You will also find the truck runs better with the 195 thermostat. When Geronimo was new, he came with a 180 degree stat, I changed it out with a 192 degree "canadian" stat - been there ever since. That was 1981...

[RipperXX]

$10 Donated!

[royster]

$10 Donated!

The forum thanks you. You'll really appreciate that edit function, and you have the satisfaction of knowing you've contributed to the life of the forum.

Gettin' to be about time for me to dig into my pocket, again...it's been a while.

[jamesw]

Looks terrific, Ripper !

For a $10 or so donation to the forum...to keep us online (we're self-supporting )...you will get the edit function, and a few other perks. AND you get a MightyRam50 sticker for your back window :)
first i,m hearing of a sticker that would be nice to have.

[geezer101]

You mean like this?

[RipperXX]

Anyone know of a list of vehicles that have the DOHC cylinder head? I know some Hyundai 1.6L engines did...but no clue which ones. I would like a list to see if I can find one in a junkyard for cheap.

[RipperXX]

$7 fix for the throttle return spring, previous owner had a spring going from the linkage to a hard brake line on the firewall... that was to long... so ignoring the lack of it being attached to a bracket or bolt or anything, it was just long enough that when you removed your foot from the accelerator (yeah I know, no one calls it that anymore) it wouldn't (because it couldn't) return the throttle to 0% / completely closed... explains the high idle. Soon as I removed that, spent a few dollars on a assortment pack of springs from the parts store, I grabbed one about the right length, curled the ends in just enough that it pulled on the spring a little when attached to a bracket holding the throttle cable and the linkage on the carb.... and wala.... Man the previous owner was cheap...

[geezer101]

Man the previous owner was cheap...

...or lazy, or stupid. As the saying goes "doesn't matter how much duct tape you use, you can't fix stupid..." And your cheap + right way fix solved a bunch of running problems :clap:

[jamesw]

You mean like this?
wheres mine? lol

[jamesw]

Oh, as for the hood support, I'm seriously looking at these for my own truck (might require modifying the installation) -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Hood-Bonnet-Gas-Lift-Supports-Shock-Strut-Damper-For-Toyota-Hilux-Vigo-SR5/372149542815?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.M BE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D50073%26meid%3D79ca5854dd5d48e 8bb99a1c012806a42%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D 6%26sd%3D122868692059%26itm%3D372149542815&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

...or pretty red ones -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Front-Hood-Bonnet-Gas-Shocks-Strut-Damper-Lift-Kit-For-Toyota-Hilux-2005-12/372211643048?epid=4014244018&hash=item56a98af2a8:g:ZzkAAOSwTIhadEMR&vxp=mtr
well geezer got my studs in today and here are the results of my first attempt so far so good the only problem i ran into is the struts i have are to weak to hold up the hood they almost do but not quiet. they are 40lb load i just ordered up some 90lbs loads get this they are for a Porsche hood lift supports struts shocks props fit for Ferrari lol hope that don't make my little truck get the big head :lmao:
20149201502015120152

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-45-Steel-Ball-End-Gas-Spring-Mounting-Stud-Bracket-Silver-Tone-5pcs/322930311894?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

in case you want the link to the studs

and the struts

https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-2PCS-6366-Porsche-Hood-Lift-Supports-Struts-Shocks-Props-Fit-For-Ferrari/401359931373?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


once the new struts get here and i see if they work then i will do something about the base plate maybe weld some steal plates down and attach them to it. but for right now i figured the wood would work.

[RipperXX]

well geezer got my studs in today and here are the results of my first attempt so far so good the only problem i ran into is the struts i have are to weak to hold up the hood they almost do but not quiet. they are 40lb load i just ordered up some 90lbs loads get this they are for a Porsche hood lift supports struts shocks props fit for Ferrari lol hope that don't make my little truck get the big head :lmao:
20149201502015120152

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-45-Steel-Ball-End-Gas-Spring-Mounting-Stud-Bracket-Silver-Tone-5pcs/322930311894?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

in case you want the link to the studs

and the struts

https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-2PCS-6366-Porsche-Hood-Lift-Supports-Struts-Shocks-Props-Fit-For-Ferrari/401359931373?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


once the new struts get here and i see if they work then i will do something about the base plate maybe weld some steal plates down and attach them to it. but for right now i figured the wood would work.


Is that how you're planning to permanently attach them?

[RipperXX]

Bah, felt like being lazy today, so even though I had the cables I didn't get started on it yet. What's the easiest way to attack it? Start from the front cable and work my way to the rear?

[geezer101]

Sorry James but...that is a fail. The best way to mount them is in a location where they are completely horizontal when the hood is closed. Move the mount that is attached to the hood further forward and find an anchor point on the ledge where the fender bolts up. It is exerting too much force that far back. The mounts on those struts aren't awesome either - are these the struts from your tool box lid?

[jamesw]

Sorry James but...that is a fail. The best way to mount them is in a location where they are completely horizontal when the hood is closed. Move the mount that is attached to the hood further forward and find an anchor point on the ledge where the fender bolts up. It is exerting too much force that far back. The mounts on those struts aren't awesome either - are these the struts from your tool box lid?
yes they are from the toolbox thats why it,s not holding. as far as being permanently nope just experimenting. as far as being in a bind or exerting to much force the hood close's with no problems @ all and opens ez just like normal. it,s just the struts are too weak to hold open the hood if all else fails i can always go back to the rod lol
FYI:
the weight of of the hood is 38.1 lbs .

[RipperXX]

Got upset with myself for being lazy and not doing anything to the truck today. So I pulled it into the shop and cleaned the contacts in the socket for the drivers side front blinker again since it stopped working again. Got that working again, cool used that Mobile one syn grease this time instead of the lithium grease which I think is hygroscopic. Then moved on to replace the stupid dry wall T bolts with the proper fastener, and checked the tire pressure. Rear's were at 20psi, brought them up to 32, one front was at 22 the other at 33, put them both to 33...then on the way back to the house from the shop thought maybe I should have set the rear at 30 and the front 35...oh well easy change. I guess tomorrow I'll start on the brake cables.

https://i.imgur.com/uax09sO.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/lxYdpMm.jpg?1

Also decided to open this thing up... interesting. That WASP WAS NOT THOUGH! Killed that evil bastard! Did not expect that when I pulled the cover off! Luckily it was cool in the shop and he wasn't to active.
https://i.imgur.com/dMpjJzf.jpg?1

[RipperXX]

So good news! I didn't need the front cable or rear brake shoes! So those can go back to the store for a refund. Was getting late by the time I started though and I had no one to help with the hydraulic brakes (pumping them) so I decided not to replace the wheel cylinders for now. And just get those parking brake cables swapped out.

https://i.imgur.com/KeHI3Vb.jpg?1

Actually was going surprisingly easy considering how dirty the underside of the truck is. Until I get to the wheel back plate brake backing plate, whatever. And this little sob didn't want to cooperate so since it's no good anyway and I have a new one here. SCREW YOU BUDDY! grabbed the propane torch and heated the spring to anneal it.
https://i.imgur.com/qlj8Gil.jpg?1

Grabbed the wire cutters, snip snip snip hah! pulled the cable out so I had more room to work with that spring steel cage thing, has prongs that stick out so it can't be pulled out once installed, 3 of them, must take some special took to press all 3 in at once to remove it. Well I don't have that, but what I do have is that torch, so more fire will make it comply! Got it good and glowing hot, annealed nicely, then it was just push those prongs in and they stayed in, pulled it out and to the trash can it goes!
https://i.imgur.com/QXA8699.jpg?1


New one installed
https://i.imgur.com/oZO7Jt1.jpg?1


Noticed this little bag of fun while working on the drivers side..
https://i.imgur.com/YzgONaO.jpg?1
figured I never find them with eggs actually still in them, poked at it. Noticed a very unhappy looking mommy running around! I do NOT like spiders! I wanted to grab the torch for this too, but.. the gas tank was less than a foot away and the filler neck a few inches away... fire didn't seem like a prudent choice here... reminded me of the guy that burnt his house down because of a big ass spider (orb weaver I think)...Okay...well lets see how much they like kerosene in a can... i mean wasp & hornet spray. (stuff sure smells like kerosene...) Didn't seem to like it, good.. I'll remove that egg sack later.

Interestingly this side (drivers) used a C-clip instead of that cage thing.
https://i.imgur.com/8QZWESP.jpg?1

Bye bye garbage.
https://i.imgur.com/dm8Mmaa.jpg?1

So now I have parking brakes again! Plenty of adjustment for the rear cables still as well. I think I will try to adjust them just a tad more. I put it in reverse to try the parking brakes, I can slip the clutch and move, if I let it out quickly though with the brakes set it will stall. So then I moved to my driveway which is fairly steep, set it wont budge, released, let it start to roll, set and it stops. it's like 8/10 of where i'd like it to be but perfectly fine. I'll just get under it and draw in the rear cables a bit and see if that gets me what I'd like from them.

[RipperXX]

Fuggin hell! I don't get it, I resized those pictures! *kicks can*


ETA: Fixed.

[tortron]

you can refit the cables. i have used a bit of pipe slipped over the end to compress the cage, then pull out

* obviously only a trick for if they are still good

[RipperXX]

you can refit the cables. i have used a bit of pipe slipped over the end to compress the cage, then pull out

* obviously only a trick for if they are still good

I had thought of that, but I didn't have anything on hand that was the right size that would fit in there, and didn't really care, so trash can they go!

The list (why is there no strike through option!!)


DONE!
Headlights
Adjust Clutch Cable
Parking brake
Change oil/filter since who knows how old it is.
Battery hold down
Replace thermostat with correct temp spec unit


NEEDS TO BE DONE
Oil leak from distributor
Fuel hose routing
Verify there are no vacuum leaks
Replace garbage wiring
Replace windshield wipers
Get tag lights working
Re-jet carburetor possibly replace with Webber
Inspect and replace timing belt and components if need be. As well as balance shaft belt.
Remove any unused connections, wires and hoses.
Replace passenger side door
Repair or replace bench seat.
Replace flywheel (missing teeth)
Replace seatbelts since I'm unsure if the recall has been performed.
Replace tail gate
Replace cracked windshield
Repair small spot in the bed/tray near the tail gate where it's damaged / hole
Replace rear passenger side tail light housing (got a hole in it)
Rebuild transmission
Replace shocks
Paint it myself

Trying to figure out what the next priority is. Flywheel? (pretty sure the one on the other engine has all it's teeth, replace the seal for the distributor? Radiator fan? Wipers are easy to cross off.. lets do that next....then the fan.

[tortron]

I think I used a jack handle last time.
might want to do all the engine timing stuff and distributor seal when you have the engine out for the flywheel. Then while it's out, paint it, tidy the engine bay and do your wiring and lines.....



And the list keeps growing

[RipperXX]

I was hoping I could just drop the transmission to swap them...Wasn't planning on pulling the engine out until I had everything to swap the cylinder heads later on...assuming I don't need to replace the timing belt anytime soon. I think I will check the compression on the engine soon though, just out of curiosity.

[RipperXX]

Did the 88 model G63B engines not use a vacuum advance on the distributor? In the manual i'm looking t it shows it... but mine doesn't appear to have a vacuum advance. So I presume mechanical?

[geezer101]

:scratchheadyellow:huh? I know that trucks running OBD I with EFI don't have a vac advance as the ECU handles all of that. So did someone swap a non vac distributor onto your carbied 2.0? And it must be a bit of a slug without it...

[RipperXX]

What? Were all 2.0L G63B 1988 trucks EFI?

[pennyman1]

no 2.0 trucks in 88 were fuel injected - none of the trucks were until 1990 for the 4 cylinders.

[geezer101]

I should've clarified that. The 2.0 G63B/4G63 SOHC engines in the trucks are all carbied engines. The 2.4 4G64 EFI engines had an all mech distributor but funnily enough it will fit the 2.0. It might have taken some wiring mods to get it to hook up to the coil :shrug:

[RipperXX]

Like that rats nest of wiring? Well poo, so I need a vac advance distributor? Which means I need to figure out the appropriate source for a vac line and find one. I see parts stores till have them, for like $170... I guess I'll look again and make sure I'm not just blind and missing it, but I'm 99.9% sure it's not there. So the idiot put a 2 barrel carb for a Ford 302 on it, and the wrong distributor from a 2.4L...that explains a few things.

[royster]

If you get into a pinch, I have a distributor off an '89 2.0. I'll see if the vacuum advance works. And if you look around the intake manifold, I think there's a capped off vacuum nipple...I could be wrong, 2.0's aren't my specialty, but it won't hurt to look.

[geezer101]

Like that rats nest of wiring? Well poo, so I need a vac advance distributor? Which means I need to figure out the appropriate source for a vac line and find one. I see parts stores till have them, for like $170... I guess I'll look again and make sure I'm not just blind and missing it, but I'm 99.9% sure it's not there. So the idiot put a 2 barrel carb for a Ford 302 on it, and the wrong distributor from a 2.4L...that explains a few things.

Ah that makes some sense now. The PO probably couldn't figure out how to hook the vac advance up off the Ford carb and swapped the distributor as a result (or just needed a working distributor and thought near enough is good enough). There's only one vacuum barb on the 302 carb so I don't know why it was so hard to get it to work. It definitely has the CFM to do the job but not sure about the jetting.

[RipperXX]

So that other engine had this one on it, but I'm not sure if it's any good. Is there a way to test them?
https://i.imgur.com/sPbQVlG.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/wwCuvY3.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/miS6FDt.jpg?1https://i.imgur.com/zAZ4qJM.jpg?1


So obviously it has the vacuum advance. Where as the one on the truck doesn't.
https://i.imgur.com/sXeO4hz.jpg?1


So how do I check the one from the other engine with the vac advance without swapping them? Because I don't want to swap them and then it not work because it's been dead for the last 5 years or something.

[geezer101]

Easy - jam a hose on the vac servo and inhale. But before doing so give the distributors' innards a liberal shot o' WD40 to free up the advance plate. If it's not perforated and the inside advance plate moves, you're rocking. There is a way to test the halls effect sensors in it but this one is a little unusual as it has 2 banks of them. Think all you need to do is hook up a multimeter to the wires and turn it by hand. The resistance values should go up and down (if I recall correctly that is) Man, that dizzy is crusty - where did you find it?

[RipperXX]

It was on the other engine I bought with the truck.

[RipperXX]

I should've clarified that. The 2.0 G63B/4G63 SOHC engines in the trucks are all carbied engines. The 2.4 4G64 EFI engines had an all mech distributor but funnily enough it will fit the 2.0. It might have taken some wiring mods to get it to hook up to the coil :shrug:

How is it supposed to hook up to the coil, it's only two wires. I thought I'd wire it up, toss a plug wire and plug on it and see if spinning it by hand would get it to fire to see if it's good before I pull the other one and it's rats nest of wiring.

[RipperXX]

Easy - jam a hose on the vac servo and inhale. But before doing so give the distributors' innards a liberal shot o' WD40 to free up the advance plate. If it's not perforated and the inside advance plate moves, you're rocking. There is a way to test the halls effect sensors in it but this one is a little unusual as it has 2 banks of them. Think all you need to do is hook up a multimeter to the wires and turn it by hand. The resistance values should go up and down (if I recall correctly that is) Man, that dizzy is crusty - where did you find it?

I tried checking it with a multimeter checking ohms, D.C. vols and mAh got nothing. My father suggested putting a AA battery in line with it (ugh...okay) tried it, nothing...but a lower DC voltage value than the straight battery .8v

[gasper601]

greetings from mexico, in my truck the distribuitor has a black wire that are 12v switch and a blue wire that is the signal tach that goes to the coil

[geezer101]

greetings from mexico, in my truck the distribuitor has a black wire that are 12v switch and a blue wire that is the signal tach that goes to the coil

Hi and welcome to mightyram. Feel free to post an introduction here - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php/8-Member-Introductions :thumbup:

[RipperXX]

I think I'm just going to drive this thing and not spend any more on it for now. Next year, I'm thinking I'll buy a 4G63, ECU and harness off e-bay. Assuming the 4G63 really just bolts right up without swapping out anything that's to easy. :devil2:

Anyone know if I have to change flywheels or anything?

[geezer101]

Find a 6 bolt engine for the transplant. You will need the truck clutch and pressure plate to get it to work. And the block will bolt straight up - but then you have to convert all the ancillary stuff. The coolant outlet is on the back of the head so it needs to be reconfigured, the intake faces the wrong way (there is a solution to this without cutting and welding I believe) and then there's the exhaust manifold to contend with. The CAS for the ignition can be either on the front or back of the head depending on the donor engine. If it's the rear it will be a tight squeeze or require beating on your firewall to make clearance for it. It's been done a gazillion times and there's lots of info and pics to guide you through the swap. I'd like to go non turbo if and when I ever get the chance to bump my build level up. Quad intake baby YEEAAAHHHH :grin:

[RipperXX]

What about the problem of sourcing a clutch that will hold the power? I assume the factory clutch wont hold on even a bone stock 6bolt 14b turbo engine at stock power output?

[geezer101]

This is when it becomes an issue. Yes you can get a HD pressure plate and it'll hold boost all day long, but the clutch cable set up is the weak link. The adjuster through the firewall flexes from standard and has been known to tear sheet metal in this location. And if it wasn't for the fact you're in the US there would've been a simple solution - use the transmission from a 2.0 4G63T Starion turbo (Conquest/Starquest) and convert it all over to hydraulic. The 2.6 has a different bolt pattern and it's not compatible but I did see one guy do some serious surgery to get a hydraulic clutch in his truck. Bear in mind too that if you're planning on visiting 250+ HP land, the transmission cases flex and this can cause gear failures. Installing a Tuff-Pan on the transmission will keep the case rigid and will ensure the otherwise stock transmission will take 500 HP.

[tortron]

Firewall flex is as easy as gussets. Did the same in my 48commer when it tore through

[pennyman1]

There is an alternative to the Tuff pan, and it is a factory part. Details to come when they arrive...

[yamahlr]

Had a friend looking to purchase the Tuff Pan, Are they still available? I have one on the Ram,great part.

[dash]

88 starion/conquest stock gearbox had the aluminium 'girdle' basepan..... like a thin (~1/4 inch) tuff pan

starion 2.6 and non-us 2.0 r both wide block pattern. Won't bolt-on to DSM motor, needs 'adapating'
box is longer than truck 5spd also

[bitrootvz]

did you happen to see the open/ torn vacuum line right behind the distributor directly under the carb.

[pennyman1]

I have the starquest girdle pan coming from OemMitsubishiParts - it is actually still available from Mitsubishi for 60 plus shipping - I will have them tomorrow... it is also a Pajero km132 transmission pan.

[RipperXX]

What would cause the required maintenance light to come on?

These things are pretty simple, alternator is charging, coolant's there and in an acceptable temp range, oil is there and pressure I presume to be acceptable because I don't see an idiot light for oil pressure. Beyond that other than lights.... who cares? What could trip the light?

[RipperXX]

did you happen to see the open/ torn vacuum line right behind the distributor directly under the carb.

I don't recall what that went to off the top of my head, but it wasn't connected to the intake manifold and the distributor on the engine is the wrong one, doesn't have the vac advance.

[pennyman1]

Mileage trips the maintenance light - there is a switch under the speedo you access through a little access panel - remove it and flip the switch.

[RipperXX]

Thanks!

[RipperXX]

Mileage trips the maintenance light - there is a switch under the speedo you access through a little access panel - remove it and flip the switch.


Never did find it.. but small update, got the electric fan to work. The thermo switch setup was garbage, I rigged it for now, just straight wired to the battery though a connect routed into the cab, ground to battery ground and positive in the cab to a male spade connector, to a female to the battery's positive.. so If I know I'm going to be sitting in traffic for a long time or a drive through I no longer have to worry about over heating I just connect them and wala fan... (it is fused with a 15amp inline fuse btw). Then once on the move again just disconnect. Yeah it's ghetto, but, it works for now. Eventually i'll setup a toggle switch on the dash or a proper themo switch setup. Learned a little more about the distributor setup, going to test the one I got soon and if it works then I just have to figure out how to connect the trigger wire to the coil in the truck and swap them out, connect a vac line and then i'll have ignition advance again which will probably help it out a ton!

Still been getting 20mpg so, not complaining really. Due to having to make a panic stop not long ago though one of the front brake lines has collapsed internally or something as only one caliper up front is working (passenger side) so that's, not awesome... Got I have gotten really good at rev matching the down shifts and slowing early, hardly ever have to use the brakes now LOL.

[RipperXX]

Is there a fuse on the blinker circuit? I hit a dead rotten tree that had fallen in the road at 4am. Couldn't find any damage to the truck but the blinkers stopped working. None of them work, replaced the flasher, nope that wasn't it but now it is supposedly compatible with LED lights...yay


ideas?

[camoit]

I would look at the blinker switch plug or something along that line. But if you have all LED lights there are many flashers that say they work with LEDs but I have found they don't The only one I have found that works is made by Peterson. I'm using the 500 series. But you can try the small one with the wire you ground, but I have not had any luck with it.
http://www.pmlights.com/products.cfm?cId=5&fId=23

[Fordubishi]

I run 2 of these, One for the Turn and one for the Hazard's
https://www.grote.com/products/44891-variable-load-electronic-led-flasher-flasher/

[RipperXX]

I do not have LED lights.

I guess i'll be getting a test light and multi-meter out today and try to chase down the problem. Tired of putting miles on the Talon just driving back and forth to work.

[RipperXX]

So if #7 (TURN) is the turn signal fuse in the dash... Fuse is good, but has no power. Does anyone know the color code for the wires that would feed the circuit? And where it draws power from?https://i.imgur.com/RC7wcy3.jpg?1

[RipperXX]

Hah! I slapped the fuse area of the dash a couple times and everything started working again....

[geezer101]

Dirty fuse terminals. They never pop so they get crusty from eating dirt for decades.

[RipperXX]

Got some time today so I did a little cleaning this morning, going to do some more tomorrow.
https://i.imgur.com/xCFxRO0.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/lxV0oeN.jpg?1

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the coil to the distributor? There's a rats nets on that thing and I don't know what's what. I'd like to see if I can get the correct distributor on this thing and hook up the vac advance.

[RipperXX]

Mileage trips the maintenance light - there is a switch under the speedo you access through a little access panel - remove it and flip the switch.

Where is this access panel under the speedo? I have yet to notice it or a switch under it.

[royster]

It's on the right-hand side, mirroring the emergency blinker switch. It looks like a cap for a switch hole. Pry it off, and you'll see a small switch inside.

[cookieking]

dont know if it has been mentioned but a non caustic oven cleaner works wonders in the engine bay.

[geezer101]

dont know if it has been mentioned but a non caustic oven cleaner works wonders in the engine bay.

Hmmm, I wonder where I've heard that before...

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/6927-And-so-it-begins?p=59899&viewfull=1#post59899

If only I knew this one sooner - would've saved me a whole lot of time and mess :thumbup:

[royster]

It's on the right-hand side, mirroring the emergency blinker switch. It looks like a cap for a switch hole. Pry it off, and you'll see a small switch inside.

Did you find it??

[cookieking]

Hmmm, I wonder where I've heard that before...

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/6927-And-so-it-begins?p=59899&viewfull=1#post59899

If only I knew this one sooner - would've saved me a whole lot of time and mess :thumbup:


lol nice, Thats the down side to being so new I guess. i'm a little out of touch with whats going on

[geezer101]

lol nice, Thats the down side to being so new I guess. i'm a little out of touch with whats going on

Did someone tell you this tip or did you discover it yourself?

There are non believers on this cleaning tip. Works fantastic on filthy engine bays but for some reason not so good to scrub out transmission bell housings (something to do with the type of oil maybe?) It's pretty good on wheels and tyres are well but you have to do one at a time and move quickly as the oven cleaner can dull some finishes. Use a paint brush to work it in so you don't scratch anything - spraying it on tyre walls and then scrubbing and pressure cleaning them gets all the road grime off. Applying tyre shine afterwards and rubbing it in by hand gets the car show look every time :thumbup:

[cookieking]

Did someone tell you this tip or did you discover it yourself?

There are non believers on this cleaning tip. Works fantastic on filthy engine bays but for some reason not so good to scrub out transmission bell housings (something to do with the type of oil maybe?) It's pretty good on wheels and tyres are well but you have to do one at a time and move quickly as the oven cleaner can dull some finishes. Use a paint brush to work it in so you don't scratch anything - spraying it on tyre walls and then scrubbing and pressure cleaning them gets all the road grime off. Applying tyre shine afterwards and rubbing it in by hand gets the car show look every time :thumbup:


Learned it in a motorcycle forum. Saw some horror stories where people used the heavy duty stuff on some aluminum parts and pitted them up or stripped the anodizing off.

I also use pin sol to soak my carbs and clean them out. It's pretty crazy some of the stuff we use every day that can destroy that kind of gunk.

And pledge works wonders on almost all interior . I like the orange kind cause I like the smell. If you ever get that weird grimy build up on your mouse wipe it down with pledge. O that same build up on your steering wheel and turn signal levers.

[geezer101]

Yeah you don't wanna use anything remotely caustic on a car or bike. The old school guys who didn't like pretty anodised parts would soak them in a caustic solution to dissolve the coloured coating. Non caustic oven cleaner works way better than heavy duty truck wash and is hell cheaper too. I got jack of buying 4 cans of degreaser to clean up an engine bay and took a risk of buying 2 cans of oven cleaner not knowing how it was going to pan out. It blitzed the job and I only needed one can - with the added bonus of not leaving a massive mess on my drive way (and even used it to clean my hands afterwards without leaving them stinking like kerosene)

[RipperXX]

I finally located that blasted switch! I had popped that cover off before but didn't see anything behind it. I wrongly thought the switch (was expecting a button) would be right behind the cover.. the other day I popped it back off and pulled the little flashlight I always have on me off my pocket and looked back in there... well, I'll be... all that time. Little bugger is recessed way back there.

[RipperXX]

I think it's got a bad rear wheel bearing, on the drivers side... twice now it's like the brakes have been biting hard on that wheel... pulling the truck over that side a little and really bogging it like your on the brakes, but I don't see how the hydraulic brakes could do it... and I don't see how the parking break could do it without the cable being pulled. And even then it wouldn't be one wheel unless adjustment was way out of whack with the cables. When it happened the first time it wasn't AS bad as the 2nd time.. I pulled over though and didn't smell brakes, didn't see any smoke or steam (was raining) and right before I pulled over it had "let go" so I went on down the road.. not 30seconds later the 2nd occurance but bad enough I had to give it a lot of gas to maintain speed for a few moments then it seemed to finally, gradually "let go". Hasn't happened since.. the only thing I can think is wheel bearing? I don't hear any odd noises from the wheel, this week end I think I'll jack up the rear and see if there's any odd play in it from side to side or resistance to roll that seems abnormal.

[royster]

Are you sure it isn't the front caliper locking up? Mine does that, on occasion, and the symptoms were identical to what you've shared.

Next time that happens, feel the FRONT rim near the center, and see if it's hot. If it is, you located the problem.


Glad you found that illusive reset button :)

[RipperXX]

Finally got that extra engine up on a stand. Now to find a DOHC cylinder head. I got an old 14b laying around that needs a rebuild... It turns over, about all I know about it until I tear it down though. Hopefully the block is good, don't really care about the cyl head.
https://i.imgur.com/s3BS80x.jpg?1

[geezer101]

Try to find an old Hyundai twin cam head. There are subtle differences between 1G and 2G heads. 1G will need the least amount of guesswork (bolt diameters and oil galleries) I'd love to build an NA tuned twin 2.0 but with a twist - no injection. A nice big set of bike carbs on a hand made manifold, 20 hours of port work and some stainless headers. You can't mess with valve timing too much on the DOHC heads without modifying pistons and ramping valve lift is an even worse idea than with the single cammer. Can't wait to see where you're going on this :))

[RipperXX]

I thought about it, but only to stay stupid simple and not need a nearly 30 year old ECU (potentially). But I'm not sure how you could setup the ignition on a DOHC head without the ECU. So, if you're going to have to use the ECU for ignition, might as well just use the fuel injection.

[geezer101]

Stand alone ignition off the CAS should do the trick. Other option is a trigger wheel off the crank. Meh, I'd be happy getting it set up on the SOHC to be honest. I'd need to knock the valve guides out of the head I've already ported and take out the shrouds to maximise flow. Then design an air plenum to duct an air charge from out of the engine bay. Monkeys might fly out of my butt too...

[RipperXX]

Stand alone ignition off the CAS should do the trick. Other option is a trigger wheel off the crank. Meh, I'd be happy getting it set up on the SOHC to be honest. I'd need to knock the valve guides out of the head I've already ported and take out the shrouds to maximise flow. Then design an air plenum to duct an air charge from out of the engine bay. Monkeys might fly out of my butt too...

Yeah, I just don't see the point for a SOHC head. Unless one just falls into my lap. I wont be looking for one until around spring. In the mean time I'll be tearing down this engine, and checking it all over. And getting it ready to build assuming it's a good block, crank etc.

[RipperXX]

So, not really tearing it down right this second, nor cleaning it, just wanted to pop the pan off and see if there was anything crazy in there.
https://i.imgur.com/FvjDyHe.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/n34LwLy.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/Bw4AC9P.jpg?1

[geezer101]

Mmmm, that looks tasty. It also looks like it had a mechanical oil pressure gauge feed on it (which probably broke off and caused the engine to dump it's blood everywhere). Where on earth did you get this engine? Mine was in a bad state when I picked it up off a pallet but this looks like it was buried somewhere (no chunks of metal sitting in there which is a good sign) Gen 1 rods & bottom end are hell tough but oil recirculation needs to be worked on. Ditch the balance shafts and use a later oil pump - this will improve things.

[RipperXX]

Yeah, I'm going to get out to the shop at some point soon and pull the rod caps and see what the bearings look like. Hopefully nothing to crazy. Right and pretty cool out, and I'm feeling a bit lazy.