Gasket suggestions

[Rambini50Ra]

Anyone have a suggestion for VC gaskets to fit an '89 2.6L?
The NAPA/ felpro used now are failed at 4-5K miles. Also what is the consensus on using quality sealant on the gskt./ surfaces and cam plugs?
I welcome any help. Thanks, Lunny.

[camoit]

Use silicone on the plugs

[geezer101]

Always use RTV gasket silicon when installing a rocker cover gasket and end seals. Make sure everything is squeaky clean and run a small bead inside the rocker cover gasket groove, the seating face around the top of the cylinder head and give the end seal the same treatment. I add a small bead around the outside gap where the cover seats and run a finger around it to remove the excess, it might be enough to ensure I didn't miss somewhere and it makes the RTV look a lot neater. You usually don't need to apply RTV to the bolt seals but a little won't hurt. Don't overtighten them - you can actually crack the rocker covers by locking them down really hard.

[Rambini50Ra]

Use silicone on the plugs
Thank you. I suspected that would be acceptable.

[Rambini50Ra]

Thanks. I know all prior work was done at a dealer and until I had the head gasket replaced she was bone dry at 215K mi. No preference on gasket mfrs?
I appreciate the response.

[geezer101]

Is it leaking oil or burning it? The valve stem seals might be dead (the #1 cause of oil consumption). Get a rocker cover gasket that is made from high temp silicon. Try 'Stone' gasket kits. Rumoured to be repackaged OEM parts. They are a mix of Ishino gaskets which is a company car manufacturers use as a supplier. Current prices on ebay are pretty good - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-B2600-Mitsubishi-Mighty-Max-Montero-Starion-Engine-Valve-Cover-Gasket-Set/371396038857?epid=718517273&hash=item5678edd0c9:g:c3sAAOSwDNdVtMgc&vxp=mtr

[Rambini50Ra]

Is it leaking oil or burning it? The valve stem seals might be dead (the #1 cause of oil consumption). Get a rocker cover gasket that is made from high temp silicon. Try 'Stone' gasket kits. Rumoured to be repackaged OEM parts. They are a mix of Ishino gaskets which is a company car manufacturers use as a supplier. Current prices on ebay are pretty good - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-B2600-Mitsubishi-Mighty-Max-Montero-Starion-Engine-Valve-Cover-Gasket-Set/371396038857?epid=718517273&hash=item5678edd0c9:g:c3sAAOSwDNdVtMgc&vxp=mtr

I'm leaking/seeping all around the VC. I'm regretting not having the seals changed when the head was off.
It has always pushed some smoke when coming off of compression so the valve seals are suspect. At 230K would you think the guides will be worn enough to negate the benefit of fresh stem seals? Thanks for the tips on gasket mfrs.

[geezer101]

I'm leaking/seeping all around the VC. I'm regretting not having the seals changed when the head was off.
It has always pushed some smoke when coming off of compression so the valve seals are suspect. At 230K would you think the guides will be worn enough to negate the benefit of fresh stem seals? Thanks for the tips on gasket mfrs.

Not necessarily. Unless the valves and seats are showing signs of wear from float, new stem seals will definitely go a long way into reducing oil consumption. It would have to be a fierce oil leak to lose 2.5 liters of oil from the rocker cover.

[Rambini50Ra]

You may have misread my post. I had no VC leaks at 215K miles. It's always used some oil but is tolerable for my extra, dirty-work pickup. I avg. 2K miles a year.
Is it possible to change the stem seals without removing the head, by pressuring the cylinder? Never tried with an OHC motor! Might be mission impossible.

[geezer101]

I have heard of guys doing this - one method was the 'rope' method. Spark plugs out, turn the crank so a piston is nearing the top of the compression stroke and feed some rope into the spark plug hole, then continue to turn the crank until the piston has been stopped by the rope. Remove the collets, take the springs out and remove the seals. Seat the new seals in with a deep socket and a couple of light taps with a hammer, reassemble, back the piston off the top of the stroke, take the rope out - rinse and repeat. I am not personally advising you to do this (I'd take the head off if it was me and inspect it) but go with what restrictions you have and what you're happy to do.

[Rambini50Ra]

I to have heard of that method also. Good food for thought. The right way is usually the right way, shortcuts ain't always short. Thanks for the help.

[geezer101]

You could attempt to pressurise the combustion chambers but if for some reason your pressure drops, so does your valves (which would suck a lot). If you're getting good compression I can't see why the rope method wouldn't be viable (saves you time and money fitting a whole VRS kit).