About to do brakes on an 87 2wd — anything I need to know beforehand?

[mattm]

My new-to-me 87 2wd Mighty Max ( http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/6621-Hello-hello ) failed MO inspection yesterday, mostly due to brake issues. So this weekend I'm going to be doing new brakes front and rear — new pads, rotors, calipers up front, new drums, shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders in back.

I've done discs and drums on other cars before (old Civic, Jeep Cherokee, Ford E-series) but haven't done them on this truck yet.

Is there anything about the brakes on these trucks that I should know going in? Are there other things I should replace while I'm in there? Any specific ordering for bleeding the brakes?

Can I just pull off the rotor or do I need to remove the wheel bearing? (If I do need to remove it, should I repack it/replace it?)

Are there odd-sized bolts anywhere? I'd prefer not to have to run out for tools halfway through.

I believe I have all necessary tools (including torque wrench and electric impact gun), but it's been a little while since I've done auto work and want to be sure I'm going in prepared.

Thanks in advance!

[royster]

Hey, mattm! Perhaps my thread on rear brakes will be of service to you - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2956-Roy-s-Garage-90-2-4-4G64-5-spd-D-50?p=56031&viewfull=1#post56031

The front caliper brakes are very easy, just follow the Haynes manual. No need to take the disks off...a bitch of a process...but you can re-pack the wheel bearings to some degree with them on.

I got all my parts from RockAuto, except I did not replace the drums (nor had them turned) - they were in decent condition, and new ones or turning the old ones turned out to be an expense I wanted to avoid.

Quoting from the next thread http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2956-Roy-s-Garage-90-2-4-4G64-5-spd-D-50?p=56032&viewfull=1#post56032 is an important starting point:

First, when you start out on this project, get some J. B. Blaster or Liquid Wrench parts-loosener on the brake fluid line fittings and the wheel cylinder bolts. I did this two days in advance, to give it plenty of time to work. I performed two applications, one just before working on the project.

Second, do NOT try to get those brake lines off without using a brake wrench...it looks like a box-end with a small gap, to allow the wrench to slip over the brake line, and gives maximum grip on the fitting. This truck uses a 10 MM brake wrench.

If you get in trouble, give us a holler here on the forum :)

Good luck and keep us posted!

[mattm]

Thank you, royster! that thread (and those photos) are very helpful.

I've ordered new rotors, but if they're that much of a bear to replace I will leave the old ones on (assuming they pass visual inspection).

I have brake line wrenches and PB blaster, so we're good there. (Actually, since you mention it I should probably start spraying bolts now...)

[royster]

You're welcome, mattm!

As long as the rotors don't have deep grooves in them, they should pass inspection. I scruffed mine up with sandpaper to break any glaze.

Glad I could help.