Weird Tin Can Noise when Accelerating at low Soeeds?

[jduvall24]

Hey guys, My truck is making a very odd sound. When my truck is accelerating directly after a gear change when a load is applied I get a really odd tin can retelling noise. Sounds like someone is shakng a bag of soup cans together. This comes out as soon as I pull off the cutch to let the gear pull. It can also be heard if I rev the engine at idle. At the low rpm range the rattle persists. Also seems to have slightly less pulling power in the gears. Also noticed that my temp guage has gotten a little warmer than it usually is. I was thinking something might be stuck in the Converter (if these trucks have them) or exhaust in general.

Thanks,

[jduvall24]

*ratteling

[royster]

Hey jduvall24 ~

"Simple" is the best place to start. Since the rattling sounds like a tin can, check the things that are tin-cannish - like the heat shroud on the exhaust, on the fire wall, and at the cat converter (yes, they have them). Take the time to just inspect with eyes-and-hands anything that might be loose. See what you come up with. Be sure to inspect the exhaust system, all the way to the tailpipe, to see if anything's loose.

If it's none of those things, then we can go to the next step...which Geezer is likely to suggest :)

[jduvall24]

Would a clogged cat make the engine run a little warmer, and with less power/ responsiveness?

[royster]

I'm not knowledgeable about cat converters, but from what I've read, yes. Again, Geezer is the guy with those kind of answers. We really appreciate him here :)

[geezer101]

I'm not knowledgeable about cat converters, but from what I've read, yes. Again, Geezer is the guy with those kind of answers. We really appreciate him here :)

Thanks for the kudos but unless I've got my head in the engine bay I'll only be doing what everyone else is doing - guessing. When you say loss of power do you mean you still have engine RPM but it's not making the same acceleration? I wouldn't think it's the gearbox BUT if the clutch plate centre damper has gone into full fail mode they can make some scary noises (they "clatter" when the clutch is being disengaged) You may need a second person to pin point the location of the rattle (under the tray, the cab, engine bay). It could be the exhaust (broken hanger/mount, baffle in the muffler has let go...) the front splash tray is loose (the metal shroud bellow the radiator) A blocked cat converter will definitely nerf an engine but normally there isn't an obvious noise to give it away. Let us know how you go on this one.

[jduvall24]

Still trying to find the problem, got underneath the car, the catylic converter had already been eliminated, checked back pressure, pumping plenty of exhaust, pipes are clear. I think my problem is somehow in my carb. I have a webber carb. When I mesh on the gas out of gear, at the very beginning when the rpms rise from idle it hesitates makes the tin can sound and then revs like normal. This situation is prolonged under load while in gear... RPMS's still we rise but its like at the very beginning of rising from idle they hesitate and create that sound.

[royster]

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? That sort of sounds like a contributing factor. I'm not a carburetor expert, by any means, but I do know the symptoms of a vacuum leak. And I am unfamiliar with a G54B, but if it has an EGR, it might be good to see if it's plugged up or not. The timing could be an issue, too.

Just my two cents.

[jduvall24]

The EGR IS taped off since it is an aftermarket carb, however, its never done this before and I haven't changed anything regarding the EGR Valve. At this point I am almost thinking that I have a valve or lifter stuck... :(

[geezer101]

A gummed up lifter would normally make that noise all the time. I would also think if you have a faulty jet valve the problem would be constant as well. If the valve train sounds like an old typewriter try following my engine flush procedure. It will either eliminate or greatly reduce noisy lifters and restore valve lift (gummed lifters will actually affect engine performance) -

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2954-Why-didn-t-I-Think-Of-That?p=49688&viewfull=1#post49688

[jduvall24]

I think that's what I got going on, It sounds like that all the time just can hear it most easily at low speeds and RPM's. Will the driving all day on 2 quarts of oil and 0.5 of diesel in the oil hurt the engine. Just seems kind of low on the oil in my opinion, I don't know what engine you were referring to in this because I think my engine takes 5 quarts.

[jduvall24]

or 4.2 Liters I believe

[camoit]

Would a clogged cat make the engine run a little warmer, and with less power/ responsiveness?


yes or a broken cat

[geezer101]

I think that's what I got going on, It sounds like that all the time just can hear it most easily at low speeds and RPM's. Will the driving all day on 2 quarts of oil and 0.5 of diesel in the oil hurt the engine. Just seems kind of low on the oil in my opinion, I don't know what engine you were referring to in this because I think my engine takes 5 quarts.

The procedure was for most Mitsubishi engines but for the flush segment of the oil change it is not necessary to run a full sump before the actual fresh oil change. One member even used my method on their Dakota 3.9 and it silenced their lifter issue and improved it's overall running. The off the shelf engine flush is diesel fuel - the retailers gouge you for the privilege of putting it in a 250ml bottle (there might be a small amount of extra detergent in some brands). IMO the small amount you get in a pre packed product isn't sufficient enough to flush an engine adequately and for what you get, it is really over priced. I have been doing this flush for some time and I can guarantee it will not damage your engine under normal everyday circumstances. If you are concerned the flush level is low, add an extra 0.5 L of oil to be safe :thumbup: