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GotToGo
06-06-2017, 07:39 PM
Hi Guys,

I let the boy use the truck and he somehow ran it out of oil and seized the engine (seriously, how does one actually do that?). I put a breaker bar on the crank and it broke free quite easily and I was able to turn it by hand. I hit it with the starter (no plugs) and it made a god awful grind. I checked the crank and it was stuck again, but again it broke free very easily. Anyway, I'm figuring a rebuild is in order.

Since I've never been that deep into an engine I'm feeling a bit unsure about this. Any advice and suggestions you can offer would be appreciated.

It's a 98 2L with a 100K on it.
geezer101
06-06-2017, 08:28 PM
Nice work from your son there :slap: I'll bet the damage will be #1 big end and bottom/main journals (the 4G63 has an inherent oiling issue at the front of the block). Also your cylinder head has probably taken a beating as well. Couple of options - get a running engine from a wreck (will save you time and cash) You won't know how badly damaged the engine is until you pull it down but factor in the crank being repaired, a possible oil pump replacement, scoring on the bores depending on what happened when it was starved of oil and a cylinder head recon as most oil burn/loss issues are from bad valves and stem seals. If you decide to take the plunge it would be a good time to think about performing a balance shaft delete. If the bores aren't wrecked you could get away with a light hone and new rings but the bottom end and cylinder head will still need attending.
GotToGo
06-07-2017, 07:03 AM
Thanks, I think I will check for engines in the area first. We'll see what happens.
GotToGo
06-08-2017, 07:36 PM
I hit one of the junkyards today and found 2 prospect engines. Both were Mighty Max and I believe 2L engines.

How can I determine if the engines are in fact compatible with mine?
geezer101
06-08-2017, 11:49 PM
If they're both manual trans mounted engines and are 4G63 2 litre engines, it's all nuts and bolts.
GotToGo
06-09-2017, 07:14 AM
Is there a way to identify the 4G63? The door tags weren't helpful.
dancinggecko
06-09-2017, 10:43 AM
The engine code should be listed on the tag on the firewall. It'll be on the passenger side up towards the top of the firewall under the hood.
GotToGo
06-09-2017, 02:27 PM
Doh! I should have known that.

Thanks.
GotToGo
06-11-2017, 01:17 PM
It's a bit of a story but bear with me.

The first thing I wanted to do was pull the starter. The nasty grind it made just made me suspicious. So I pulled it and inspected the flywheel while I turned the engine. It looked ok, and since I was going to tear down the engine, I just left the starter off. It would be easier to install from above anyway.

Today I started the tear down. After I got the intake manifold off I was staring into the empty space below it that I never get to see. I glanced over at the flywheel and thought, is that a shiny spot? So I got the light on it and nope, nothing there, flywheel looks good. Then off to the side something catches my eye. Is that the porous surface of broken metal? Well, yes, yes it is. I reached down to fish it out and it's the nose cone from the starter! Broke clean off. So I go look at the starter and can't believe I didn't see that.

So now the boy's story makes a little more sense. While he did run it low on oil, it didn't seize, it just had a blockage. It also makes sense since I was able to free it very easily and it otherwise turned just fine.

Now, just in case I'm being stupid, is there any real reason to continue with the tear down?
dancinggecko
06-11-2017, 02:00 PM
If you have reason to believe that all of the bearings are OK then you're probably fine where you are. I'd at least pull the oil pan and make sure there's not any metal bits from bearings trying to eat themselves.
geezer101
06-11-2017, 02:15 PM
It would have to have been a brutal engine seize-up to make the engine do anything other than squeal (the 'normal' sound of a bearing overheating and failing). Easy way to test the theory - replace the starter. You need to replace it anyway. If you get the green light and it lives, perform an engine oil flush. The last remaining dregs of oil will be heavily contaminated and the oil flush will free up lifters and generally improve the health of your engine - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2954-Why-didn-t-I-Think-Of-That?p=49688&viewfull=1#post49688
GotToGo
06-11-2017, 02:36 PM
If you have reason to believe that all of the bearings are OK then you're probably fine where you are. I'd at least pull the oil pan and make sure there's not any metal bits from bearings trying to eat themselves.


That's a very good idea!
GotToGo
06-11-2017, 02:41 PM
Geezer, that's the way I was looking at it.
GotToGo
06-12-2017, 09:51 PM
I started reassembly today, still got a ways to go but I have another question. :)

According to my Haynes manual the top sprocket should NOT align directly with the mark on the head. It says the sprocket should be advanced by 2 teeth. Does that make sense to anyone?
geezer101
06-12-2017, 10:08 PM
:scratchheadyellow: err, no that doesn't compute. The alignment mark on the cam sprocket should line up with the marker lobe cast into the edge of the cam surround on the head. You get it wrong, it won't fire. You get it REALLY wrong, you could munch valves.
GotToGo
06-13-2017, 07:35 PM
:scratchheadyellow: err, no that doesn't compute. The alignment mark on the cam sprocket should line up with the marker lobe cast into the edge of the cam surround on the head. You get it wrong, it won't fire. You get it REALLY wrong, you could munch valves.

Yep, that's why I asked.

But I looked at the manual again and apparently it's only saying to advance the engine to that mark to adjust the belt tension. Apparently that position works best. But the diagram confused the hell out of me. :)

It's all back together and tomorrow I will attempt to fire it up.
geezer101
06-14-2017, 02:40 AM
Good luck! :thumbup:
LSR Mike
06-14-2017, 08:35 AM
Properly aligned... with Belt tension set...No Balance shafts so I didn't have to deal with that...

19011
GotToGo
06-14-2017, 09:23 AM
Well, all is not perfect.

It fired right up, but it's smoking and the engine has a mild rattle.

I guess I'm back to rebuild/replace. :shrug:
GotToGo
08-02-2017, 07:25 PM
Hi again.

Does anybody know where I can get a set of rods for my 2L?
silverjoel
08-03-2017, 01:50 PM
Any 4g63 or 4g64 (6 bolt crank) rods you can find should work. That's not specific to trucks, eclipses, galants and whatever else has those engines. You should be able to find them pretty cheap. Rockauto or eBay will have the rods.
silverjoel
08-03-2017, 02:10 PM
I was wrong about Rockauto, they don't have the rods.
GotToGo
08-03-2017, 06:50 PM
Any 4g63 or 4g64 (6 bolt crank) rods you can find should work. That's not specific to trucks, eclipses, galants and whatever else has those engines. You should be able to find them pretty cheap. Rockauto or eBay will have the rods.

I pretty much came to that conclusion on my own. But as you found out, RA doesn't list them for the 2.0. However, they do list them for the 2.6. And what little I did find on them is that they are the same rod.

I was hoping someone here could give me some confirmation.
Law Dog
08-03-2017, 07:10 PM
Find the old part number and type it in a web search and you will find options!
GotToGo
08-03-2017, 07:38 PM
Yeah, well, I don't have the part in my hand just yet. :)
silverjoel
08-03-2017, 09:31 PM
I pretty much came to that conclusion on my own. But as you found out, RA doesn't list them for the 2.0. However, they do list them for the 2.6. And what little I did find on them is that they are the same rod.

I was hoping someone here could give me some confirmation.


No, the 4g54 rods are not the same and will not work in a 4g63. Here's the part number for the rods you want MD040550.
silverjoel
08-03-2017, 09:45 PM
If you're comfortable with Ali express, you can order the rods here.

https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32817795374.html?spm=a2g0n.search-cache.0.0.70bc08b9qKHKF5
GotToGo
08-04-2017, 06:58 AM
Nice! Thanks!
pennyman1
08-04-2017, 12:16 PM
beware - those are Chinese rods...
GotToGo
08-04-2017, 12:58 PM
Aren't they all?
pennyman1
08-04-2017, 07:12 PM
The original ones are Japanese. there are forged ones made in the USA, but they are pricey
GotToGo
08-04-2017, 07:23 PM
I don't suppose there's an easy way to tell?
GotToGo
10-25-2017, 07:15 PM
Hi again. I haven't abandoned this thread, I've just been dealing with a *hitstorm of other stuff lately.

The other day I got back into this. Pulled the tranny and pulled the engine. Then I got started on disassembly.

The cylinders look pretty good. Crosshatch is still there in all 4 and no ridge. The oil pan had no debris in it.

I pulled pistons 1 and 2 and the rod bearings looked really good. I was beginning to think the *hitstorm was over. But I pulled the #3 cap and it didn't look so good. The bearing was "groovy" and the journal had a little too. So I pulled the rest and they were all about the same. After I got the crankshaft out I took it to a recommended shop and he says its just too far gone for a polish. But his cost for regrinding is as much as a rebuilt one that comes with bearings.

So what's the opinion here? Grind the OEM or get the rebuilt kit from RA?

I was also looking at a rebuild kit from DNJ that includes pistons, rings, and all the gaskets (no crank). Any opinions on them?