1981 L200 'ClubSport'

[tortron]

Part trimmed the sill, filled it full of holes, and burned it into the Ute.

A little tricky to line it up straight, not real sure where you would measure from expecially when the whole trucks been messed with...
Anyway. It looked like the inner door frame had been squashed from standing on it, I copied the angle where the seat frame attaches as this seemed unsquashed. Reshaped it all to match and then set the lip height from the outer edge. This mush have been the right thing to do because the lower edge of the sill then matched with the inner sill lip.

I think I missed the photo, but I painted all inside first as well.
Another day tickling the rear cab corner into something passable and I can start tidying it up for some paint 23288

Might be the straightest panel on the truck now, so it may stand out haha

[tortron]

Ok, going to call that good on the metal work side of things
23321
23322

A little filler and it will be seamless.
Speaking of, il need to seam seal some areas before I get around to painting.
Still need to drill out the cab mount hole and tidy some of the welds underneath the floor.

[85Ram50]

That looks good Tortron

[geezer101]

That looks good Tortron

For a backyarder, he does some tight work :grin:

[tortron]

Don't speak so soon haha
Bottom of the door bows out by about 1 cm in the middle!...
The sill I out in is dead straight.
Oh well, il paint that too while I'm at it.....

[tortron]

Yup, so the door had been bent out to fit the will
24464

I ended up totally reshaping the lower body line of the door. It was different between the b pillar, door, and guard.
24465

Once I hung the door, I lined the rear edge up with the B pillar frame.
With some tapping I got the lower edge parallel and inline with the sill.
But now I couldn't open or close the door....
Panel gap at the guard edge was all over the place. I ended up redoing the whole rear of the guard. An old Taiwanese reproduction. In some places out by 5mm + or -. And the rear mount had been welded on crooked.
24466
24467

It's pretty good now.
Some fine finishing and I can prime it up and get this back on its wheels

[xboxrox]

Hey tortron, is this truck the one thats' been rust fixed a lot and the one thats' Your Truck..? Didn't you have a V6 engine transplant project, what became of that..? Because of the Corona Virus, I won't be coming to visit anyone, anytime soon... Gotta make do with using this forum...

You're a neat guy, like geezer, you both contribute a heck of a lot for the rest of us guys here... Thank for sharing your "How To" :thumbup:

[geezer101]

Repro panels are 90% junk. You're usually better off buying a half decent panel and run with it. I remember when I was stripping a Cordia turbo I had a bunch of panels for sale and I got a call from a body shop. I had a drivers fender unmarked for $95 and the guy argued he could get a 'new' one for $45. I told him to buy it - and to have fun spending 4 hours getting it to line up and fit properly...

[tortron]

Yeah I considered getting a used guard. This was the guard that came on the truck, but is a repo, I assume fitted in the 2000s.
It's just fiddly work that eats up time (I have hung and rehung the door and guard more times than I can count)
Be nice if it was fixed decently in the first place....

Yes xboxrox this is the same truck that I have fixed the firewall, inner guards, roof etc on.... And is fitted with the Buick V6

Plan on swapping in a tickled up ecotec in soon though

[xboxrox]

Yes xboxrox this is the same truck that I have fixed the firewall, inner guards, roof etc on.... And is fitted with the Buick V6

Plan on swapping in a tickled up ecotec in soon though

Now I know there is an ecotec engine; Googled it and see it has advanced engineering & mass produced... Did NZ or OZ model vehicles get this engine too..? Where will you get one & how much $ what transmission comes with these engines & which one do you want? From what little I read the non turbo larger displacement engine might be better for your Ute..? I dunno..? Tortron, if for some reason you were forced to buy a new vehicle to replace your truck, what would you choose out of the road monsters being sold now..? I enjoy learning from you & geezer from the other side, thx... George

Off Topic but this was fun to read:
https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enthusiasts/inside-jay-lenos-impressive-multi-million-dollar-357-vehicle-collection/ss-BB10tTWb

[tortron]

Ecotec V6 is the next gen of the Buick V6 (not the inline modern one)

Plenty of old Holden's around, I got the engine and box for $500. The gearbox is the 4l60e which is the next get of the 700r4
This means it all pretty much bolts in to what I have now

Modern utes are too big to be any use for me. Can't park it in the city, barely fit in my gate or garage, deck is too high and too small for a sheet of ply etc. Terrible.
I mostly ride my motorcycle around because it's so cheap, I would like a new Morris J type electric van, I hope they come to NZ

[xboxrox]

Ecotec V6 is the next gen of the Buick V6 (not the inline modern one)

Plenty of old Holden's around, I got the engine and box for $500. The gearbox is the 4l60e which is the next get of the 700r4
This means it all pretty much bolts in to what I have now

Modern utes are too big to be any use for me. Can't park it in the city, barely fit in my gate or garage, deck is too high and too small for a sheet of ply etc. Terrible.
I mostly ride my motorcycle around because it's so cheap, I would like a new Morris J type electric van, I hope they come to NZ

Cute the Morris J but pricey, could camp & sleep in it though, very cool... I read wikipedia that Holden will stop making vehicles in 2021 & they made a small truck in 1980 Holden Rodeo renamed in 2008 Colorado --- newer Colorado right hand drive trucks are made in Thailand... and, they are like the USA Chevy Colorado truck which receives bad reviews because of it's akward uncomfortable driver's seating position...

That Buick V6 with 4L60e should scoot your truck quickly enough :) For best performance, try to get the ECM computer with the latest updated version (identify it & price it at a OEM car dealer parts department) OR you are probably a tuner yourself..???

That truck is gonna keep you busy & happy :)

[geezer101]

Holden is dead. US GM will kill off the brand name this year and they've screwed all of the dealerships with any pre-ordered stock. The Colorado is actually a decent offering from Holden that has proven it can cut it (it's reliable, can haul a load and has good offroad capability). Look at anything else that is a Holden branded SUV/crossover/4x4 and it's Russian roulette. I think the major car manufacturers are missing the point of light utility/mini trucks. They filled a void in the market where guy average didn't want or need a big @ss flatbed truck to haul day to day stuff. Look at the size of these things now, they're freaking ridiculous...

[Salteen]

look at the stuff in America. big ol 5 or 6, sometimes 7 liter V8's (GM had a near 4 and a half liter V6 once which is ridiculous even in my American eyes) most of the trucks are 4 doors 6.5 foot to 8 foot beds, big 7 or 8 liter diesels, 6 to 10 speed automatics, 4 wheel drive, sensors and cameras on every angle, parking and trailer assist, 30+ inch tires, leather interior, 1000 buttons and switches and gauges, the list goes on and on and on,

GM actually had a 7 and 3/4 liter V6 back in the 60's, it was 477 cubic inches.

[tortron]

We drove the big block caddy across the USA. Now that's a big engine for no power!

Xboxrox
I have all the equipment to retune Holden/GM ECUs. The one in the truck now runs as is, but for the ecotec I need to bypass the security and adjust the shiftpoints to match my Speedo. They like a bit of timing thrown at them as well. Can't go as in-depth as a modern link ECU, but the entry price is pretty affordable

[xboxrox]

look at the stuff in America. big ol 5 or 6, sometimes 7 liter V8's (GM had a near 4 and a half liter V6 once which is ridiculous even in my American eyes) most of the trucks are 4 doors 6.5 foot to 8 foot beds, big 7 or 8 liter diesels, 6 to 10 speed automatics, 4 wheel drive, sensors and cameras on every angle, parking and trailer assist, 30+ inch tires, leather interior, 1000 buttons and switches and gauges, the list goes on and on and on,

GM actually had a 7 and 3/4 liter V6 back in the 60's, it was 477 cubic inches.

and don't forget the often $15,000.00 OFF MSRP Sales Events advertised on TV --- makes me wonder the price, heck the discount could buy a small car..! No joke (I speak the truth) there was a F250 Ford 4x4 at Windward Ford in Kailua, Hawaii with a sticker price of $160,000.00 :shock: I almost lost my balance and fell when I saw the price (and I was prepared for seeing a big number, but not that big...)

[geezer101]

and don't forget the often $15,000.00 OFF MSRP Sales Events advertised on TV --- makes me wonder the price, heck the discount could buy a small car..! No joke (I speak the truth) there was a F250 Ford 4x4 at Windward Ford in Kailua, Hawaii with a sticker price of $160,000.00 :shock: I almost lost my balance and fell when I saw the price (and I was prepared for seeing a big number, but not that big...)

It's a Ford F250. Not an imported European sports coupe. What could be in a crap Ford 4x4 that would remotely justify a tag that high...

[xboxrox]

It's a Ford F250. Not an imported European sports coupe. What could be in a crap Ford 4x4 that would remotely justify a tag that high...

Hawaii Dealer Markup (?)

Link to a F150 but none in stock over $100,000.00 now (click link and get sticker shock)
https://www.windwardfordhawaii.com/searchnew.aspx?Type=N&Make=Ford&Model=F-150&st=Price+desc

[Salteen]

guess its because it was imported, because a friend of mind's dad just bought a Star White Ford F-450 crew cab 8' bed with the diesel and the 10 speed and the following options (asked and he literally sent me a picture of the build sheet he has):

Crew Cab
8' Bed
RW options: DRW
Wheelbase: 176"
Star White
6.7L Power Stroke V8 Turbo Diesel Engine
4X4
TorqShift 10-speed Automatic Transmission with Selectable Drive Modes
http://www.mightyram50.net//assets.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/assets/Application_Context_Defaults/BP2/BPMIMGMISSPART/BPMIMGMISSPART_136B520C-A7E3-C501-EAE9-540DEAE9540D.png

4.30 Limited Slip Axle Ratio






FX4 Off-Road Package
Heavy Service Front Suspension Package
Ultimate Trailer Tow Camera System with Pro Trailer Backup Assist
19.5-inch Forged Polished Aluminum Wheels with Bright Hub Cover and Center Ornament (DRW)
5th-Wheel/Gooseneck Hitch Prep Package
Adaptive Steering System
Alternator – 397 Amp
Bedliner – Tough Bed Spray-in
BLIS (Blind Spot Information System) with Cross-traffic Alert and Trailer Tow
BoxLink
Engine Block Heater
Exterior Backup Alarm
Hitch Kit – 5th Wheel, 27.5K
Hitch Kit – Dual Gooseneck
Hood Deflector – Black Molded
Individual Trailer TPMS/Customer-Placed Trailer Camera
LED Box Lighting
LED Roof Marker/Clearance Lamps
Live-Drive Power Takeoff Provision (PTO)
Power Moonroof
Quad-Beam LED Headlamps/Taillamps and Fog Lamps
Rear Window – Defrost with Privacy Glass
Rear Window – Power-Sliding with Privacy Glass
Remote Start System with Key
Reverse Sensing System
http://www.mightyram50.net//assets.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/assets/Application_Context_Defaults/BP2/BPMIMGMISSPART/BPMIMGMISSPART_136B520C-A7E3-C501-EAE9-540DEAE9540D.png

Skid Plates – Transfer Case and Fuel Tank
http://www.mightyram50.net//assets.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/assets/Application_Context_Defaults/BP2/BPMIMGMISSPART/BPMIMGMISSPART_136B520C-A7E3-C501-EAE9-540DEAE9540D.png

Splash Guards/Mud Flaps - Front
Splash Guards/Mud Flaps – Rear
Tailgate Step with Tailgate Assist
Tonneau Pickup Box Cover – Retractable
Wheel Well Liner – Front (Only)
http://www.mightyram50.net//assets.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/assets/Application_Context_Defaults/BP2/BPMIMGMISSPART/BPMIMGMISSPART_136B520C-A7E3-C501-EAE9-540DEAE9540D.png

Windshield Wiper De-icer
PowerScope® Telescoping Trailer Tow Mirrors
Power-Deployable Running Boards
http://www.mightyram50.net//assets.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/assets/Application_Context_Defaults/BP2/BPMIMGMISSPART/BPMIMGMISSPART_136B520C-A7E3-C501-EAE9-540DEAE9540D.png

225/70Rx19.5G BSW Traction Tires
Unique Limited Two-Tone Leather-trimmed Seats (Highland Tan)
110-Volt/400-Watt AC Outlet
http://www.mightyram50.net//assets.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/assets/Application_Context_Defaults/BP2/BPMIMGMISSPART/BPMIMGMISSPART_136B520C-A7E3-C501-EAE9-540DEAE9540D.png

Adaptive Cruise Control and Collision Warning with Brake Support
All-Weather Floor Mats
http://www.mightyram50.net//assets.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/assets/Application_Context_Defaults/BP2/BPMIMGMISSPART/BPMIMGMISSPART_136B520C-A7E3-C501-EAE9-540DEAE9540D.png

Easy Entry/Exit Memory Driver's Seat
Electronic-Shift-On-the-Fly (ESOF)
Floor Covering – Premium Vinyl
Heated Rear Seats
Integrated Trailer Brake Controller
http://www.mightyram50.net//assets.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/assets/Application_Context_Defaults/BP2/BPMIMGMISSPART/BPMIMGMISSPART_136B520C-A7E3-C501-EAE9-540DEAE9540D.png

Power Heated/Ventilated Driver/Passenger Seat with Driver Side Memory
Rapid-Heat Supplemental Cab Heater (Diesel)
Ultimate Trailer Tow Camera System with Pro Trailer Backup Assist
http://www.mightyram50.net//assets.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/assets/Application_Context_Defaults/BP2/BPMIMGMISSPART/BPMIMGMISSPART_136B520C-A7E3-C501-EAE9-540DEAE9540D.png

Universal Garage Door Opener
Upfitter Switches
Vehicle Safe by Console Vault
B&O Sound System by Bang & Olufsen (10 Speakers including Subwoofer)
SYNC 3
Voice-Activated Navigation System

All of this for a whopping $99,650 (really expensive but cheaper than $160000k for an F-250)

[Salteen]

sorry I used the text convertor on my camera and it done some weird things when it copied the text to my clipboard, lol

[xboxrox]

sorry I used the text convertor on my camera and it done some weird things when it copied the text to my clipboard, lol

Windward Ford Dealer must be using a text convertor on their Window Stickers :lmao:Buy from mainland & pay Matson $1,400.00 to ship it Hawaii...

[tortron]

Thought about putting the Ute through its inspection next week, but there was a tiny rust hole on the opposite side cab mount. Figured I'd just knock it out beforehand. Got a replacement sill and the jigs for the mounts and floor ready to go, so should be straight forward.
24549
Same story, the drain hole was blocked totally with bog, so the body mount is rusting out. Looks like the inner sill has been messed with as it doesn't sit nice either.

24550
This looks worse in the photo than I believe it is. I have had a good look over the frame and this is the only pitted area, so I don't know what's going on. Some holes in the cab mount bracket itself but I think I can handle it. Plan on filling those pits and grinding flat, seems to work on hotrod frames, I don't think the frame will suffer in any way.

And... More of the same
24551
24552
Crappy repairs, lots of bog, bottom of the sill badly pitted and just bogged over. Won't bother digging any deeper, just going to cut it off and replace it

[tortron]

Chop it up. Again with a replacement sill over the original, hammered in, bogged together.
Figured the floor/body mount would be rusting out between kayers, more the same as the other side.
Chop it all out
24576
24577
24578

[tortron]

This sides rusty and il rebuild the whole lot. But, this gives me a good chance to get some good measurements and make some improved dies and forms. I just got a big press, so i think i might knock out a few repair sets for each side. Pretty sure they all rust out in these spots and the panels arent available anywhere.

[geezer101]

Is this still recognised as a genuine L200? Geez dude, there's hardly any original metal left in it! Anyone else would've driven this for years and not known there was something seriously wrong until it was beyond salvaging.

[tortron]

Getting hard into the panel reproduction game.
Bought a 20 ton press not long ago and have been thinking about how to reproduce these cab mounts/floor panels. It sure is nice to have the radio going and use my metal shear and press rather than endless grinders and hammering dulling my ears to the outside world.

24808
So we start with our rusted out, but largely in shape cab mount.
I picked it apart and took some measurements. Can gladly confirm the dimple die I made prior is a perfect match
24809
24810
I pin some sheet metal between two ply bucks and use the die and about 6 ton of pressure to make the dimple.

24811
The metal ends up a bit stretched, but a few go rounds with a planishing hammer shrinks those down
24812
I can then check to see if I'm making the right depth
24813

I can then trim the floor panel to size (edges oversize for final fit, cab rear overhang and inner sill flange cut to size, overhang bent)
24814

I found that if I used a steel plate with a matching sized hole in it I could get a nicer crisp edge on the dimple, so I used that on the next piece and the floor piece at the same time to make sure the dimples are the same shape and depth. In the future I will press two panels at once.
24815
I also fitted a tubing offcut to punch out the bolt hole dead centre.

Learning for next time


24816
24817

Nice fit between all the panels.

Luckily the passenger side was in better shape than the driver's, so I was able to get some good measurements and a better idea of the shape details. Like the kick in the upper strengthening plate at the B pillar.

So I marked and cut out the upper plate
24818
24819

I opted to cut and weld to get the kick this time, I'm short on steel stock. It doesn't take much time but I could also make something to press it in.

I radiused the corner and welded the cab back corner and hammered in the raised bead (I will probably make a tool to press this in next time, it would be quite basic and take 30 seconds instead of 5 mins)
24820

And the panels fitted together
24821

[tortron]

I can knock those out quite easily now. A few tweaks to my setup and I will be sorted to produce them for sale, I'm sure there's still some rusty mitsis out there.

The next stage is to reproduce the cab mount section quickly and accurately. The driver's side I made some anvils and ball head punches and spent a lot of time eyeballing and hammering it into shape. This time I would like to use my press.
So I started on some tooling
But in order to make the tooling, I had to make some tooling
24822

24823

So far I have made a male buck for the side that faces the floor. Again I'm low on steel stock but I might be able to scrape up enough to make one for the side that faces the sill. This section is offset depending on being on the left or right side of the truck, so I would like to make it reversible, although a symmetric one would not effect the mount in any way.
My plan is to make the mount in two pieces and weld together before fitment to the truck (as I did with the driver's side)
I'm going to use a block of urethane rubber and a strong steel box and my press to rubber hydroform the panels. This mount is thicker steel than the previous two panels, so the box will need to be quite robust.
I could probably make the mount in one piece using this method, but large rubber blocks and plate steel are quite expensive so I think this is the best option.

Hoping to be able to pump a few out to keep more of these trucks out of the scrap yard

[geezer101]

The man is multi talented :grin:

[tortron]

Need to make an order of steel before continuing with that.
Got sick of having the 1st gen tray blocking my big workbench for over a year, so I moved it. Then u thought, well I may as well try get that finished so it can go on the truck and not be in the way at all.
Dug out the side I unstitched and stripped it.
24845

Rusty
248462484724848
24849

Have filled in the holes for the bed cover hooks. I prefer a single rivet bobbin style, but may go for something else mounted to the bed rail. Have finished the patches above the swage line and made a start by cutting out that big long patch. Should finish this panel tomorrow and then IL paint all the panels I have already done and see if I can start putting this side back on

[tortron]

24850
24851

Not quite finished. Got the flanges at each end and a small hole in the fuel filler recess and to tidy up today's patches

[geezer101]

Have you modified the fuel filler? I have thought about something similar - changing the filler neck and adding a remote release...

[tortron]

That's how it came, I don't think it's modded

[geezer101]

My Gen 1 has the filler door on that body crease. God knows why they designed it that way... it would've been a PITA and more expensive to press the fuel door and filler recess with a fold through the middle of it.

[tortron]

Oh weird. Yeah the flap from this one is flat. I haven't noticed any that are different here.
But yeah you have a point all the ones I see online are on the swage line. I wonder if this was a nzdm thing. Do you have flat/square wheel wells or rounded ones?

This puts my filler recess entirely inside the wheelwell as well. If it was higher up it would be in the bed space

[geezer101]

Outer panels on the tray are rounded. Inner well is a big long rectangular-ish box with reinforcing raised ribs pressed into it. They're the same on both my Gen 1 and my donor wreck.

[tortron]

Oh yeah, I have the flat type wheel wells, I think the dodge ones are rounded from what I'm told on here.
I was wondering if it was a cost saving thing by Todd motors

[geezer101]

Oh yeah, I have the flat type wheel wells, I think the dodge ones are rounded from what I'm told on here.
I was wondering if it was a cost saving thing by Todd motors

Doubt it. The local dealership isn't going to front up costs for altering the production line manufacturing on a vehicle. The different tray might be for the SEA market? :shrug:

[tortron]

Todd motors was the manufacturer here.

I'll keep an eye out for other NZ trucks, but I'd say they are all like that here.



Edit
Yup just looked up a dozen or so wellside NZ 1st gens all have the fuel flap in that location. For whatever reason Todd motors made them like that

[tortron]

NZ had at the time taxes and local economy stimulus laws so cars had to be a certain % assembled here and a certain % manufactured here. Usually this ment we had NZ made interior swatches and the radios were NZ made. Considering most utes would be getting a flatdeck for getting put to work I think it makes sense that the wellsides would be made here.
I'm just logic'ing that out butakes sense don't it.

Of course once the 90s came we got every cheap used import we could get our hands on

[geezer101]

That's interesting. So did L200's have a different trim interior option in NZ as well? I really wanted a 2 door Colt Panther turbo. So freaking cool. Oz never got 2 door Colt hatches. They made awesome sleeper car projects and were pretty tough structurally.

[tortron]

24870
24871


Gave it a little hammer and dolly work before 2 coats of durepox inside and out. Will leave any further tweaking till it's mounted, but it's pretty straight, primer filler should get it 90%

[camoit]

Now drop a DD16 Detroit into it.
Then you can have 600HP and a turbo that is tied into the engine to get another 35HP


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_q_I8SYkN8w

[geezer101]

^that engine got a roasting. Owners/drivers hate it. Nice brochure, but visiting the place was disappointing.

[tortron]

Sounds expensive,

The 3800 produces more than enough power for me anyways don't need 600hp to haul DIY supplies or tow a Morrie.
Current engine has about 170hp standard, the ecotec should have about 195hp standard, but with no cat/bigger exhaust that's already on the truck and the tuning parts I have it should happily bump it up in to 200 which is double the original engine and more than enough to get into trouble with

[tortron]

Speaking of, I ran out of supplies to continue with the tray for now

Next biggest thing in the way is the VS engine and trans

Separated them and degreased the 4l60e
24874
Went though the parts I have stashed
24875

Going for a shift kit with updated accumulator, uprated pistons corvette servo, uprated 3-4 clutch, temp sender fitting, drain plug in pan

Gona need a few more seals and gaskets now as I want to do it once and not take it back out any time soon

Might do the pan mods tomorrow and think about looking at the engine

[tortron]

Found this on the end of my wellside tray
24895

The truck it came from was24895 an 83
So it must be number 243 and made on the 55th day of 1983

[tortron]

At the other end of the tray I remade this panel
24900

I can start putting this side back together soon
24901

[geezer101]

Yeah that definitely isn't an OEM tray. And a nice bit of archeology with unearthing the construction stamp hidden in there (and the repairs are looking good too!)

[tortron]

It's OEM, just the NZ made version, I don't think anyone else would make trays specific to them. What else are you seeing different?
I think the rear number plate cowl has a few differences, the rivets were a bit weird as all the other edges are brazed on. It's all original though, other than a few patches.
A shame if all the panels I've made are different from the other markets ones, as I kept templates to make more of them lol

[Fordubishi]

On my 81 the box bars are bolted on not welded in like yours. the box floor in front and behind the inner wheel tubs also have ribs not flat. Also the wheel tubs are 1 piece that are rounded.

[tortron]

Fancy seeing you here fordubishi, I'm literally on your thread right now looking at those same things. It looks like you don't have little brackets on your wheel tubs to the top of the bed side either.
The cabbend panel of the tray on mine isn't rolled like the bed floor either, it's folded in and framed at the edges.

Looks like all the panels are the same, we just have them made a bit lazier.

[tortron]

I also noted you have the rivets too.

Wheel tubs fit in the same spot, look to be the same size. So I think any panel I make would work on any tray.
The flat panels Infront of and behind the wheel wells actually work better for how I'm going to modify the tray later on so that's cool

[tortron]

Someone just noted this on my other forum

But here is a bit of useless trivia. These were pressed in Palmerston North at a company called Coachwork International. They were the only company in NZ to have a press big enough (400ton) to emboss the lettering on the tailgate. They stamped all the major brands wellsides back in the day due to local content rules.

Mildly interesting... or not

[tortron]

Chopped some more off. The rails mount the bed to the chassis, both the upper and lower skirts are attached underneath them. Didn't really want to take them off but there was some rust creeping that I couldn't ignore.
24938

The ones in the middle are just to strengthen the bed and look pretty good so they can stay

24939

I also unpicked this corner. Very gentle not to ruin it, it's rusted through right across though. The other side is good enough to stay on.

Any seam that hasn't been unpicked will get scrubbed up and injected with rust converter, epoxy, seam sealer where needed, and the whole.lot will get chassis waxed

[tortron]

Ok I lied. There's not much holding these bits on and the pitting on the bedside seam is worth getting rid of
24942

The rust under the other seams isn't too bad considering the rest of the tray. I won't unstitch the tail light section, so I'm happy just loading it up with rust converter

[tortron]

Painted everything that was fixed and would be under a seam. Re used the wonky factory spotweld holes and added some where they were missing. Don't think I will take any dents out of the floor, I'm going to use and abuse it, I will out a thick layer of bedliner on it when it's done.
25114

Have some more bits to paint before they go back on and then I can start on the other side

[tortron]

Apparently I made this patch 10mm too narrow.
In my defence I made it to the same level as the rest of the wheelwell. On closer inspection it appears Todd motors just filled in the gaps on the front and rear with seam sealer.
25136
The strengthener on the underside only just lined up to where it should be, I think I even trimmed a little off but never clicked. Haha oh well, caught it before stitching the side back on

[85Ram50]

It's still better than what i did with my bed. :)

[tortron]

I cut it out and redid it, came out much nicer than it was too, so pretty happy. Hope to put the side back on this weekend

[geezer101]

Ah crap, after all that nice work you had to go back over it :( Still, it turned out damned good!

[tortron]

Stripped the 4L60e right down this afternoon
25146

I was expecting it to have been ragged to death judging from the blown engines laying around at the guys I got it from, but is in great condition. A few orings were a bit hard, so definitely a good idea to do it

[85Ram50]

You're gonna have a new rig in no time.

[tortron]

Spend all day

1. Cleaning and reassembling trans ☒

2. Making a one time use tool ☑


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[85Ram50]

I'm guessing that is to compress springs? Nice work.

[tortron]

To compress the low reverse spring in the rear of the trans housing
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Need to compress it to get the snap ring out.
Looks like the commercially available ones lock inside the castings in the trans body and push it down. Which is kinda odd because then you have even less room to get your snap ring pliars in there, and if you are this deep in the trans the shaft comes out anyway. I'm sure there's a reason.

Should work on most GM autos too, not that I expect to rebuild any more

[tortron]

Learned a bit more about 4L60e's while stripping this down, which means more money and more waiting on stuff to arrive.
Being from a VS Commodore it means the trans is a fairly early 4L60e and there's been a few updates by GM over the years, so I'm getting some of those parts which will increase longevity and reduce parasitic loss (so increased power to the wheels and less fuel consumption which is ideal)
Glad I did the full strip down, I had it in my mind that VS commodres were fairly new, but they are actually from 1995, and so the seals have all had 25 years of heat and oil.

So many parts available to build these up it's easy to get in the trap of spending lots of money and having a beast of a trans. But I've managed to stay in control and come up with a mix of parts that should give me 25 more years of use out of it with only oil changes to worry about. I never want to take it back out haha.
No need to build it for 5-600 hp when I'm expecting 200, even a supercharged V6 doest break 250

[xboxrox]

tortron, I once owned a 1994 9C1 (police version) Chevrolet Caprice; it had the 4L60e behind the LT-1 5.7L Corvette engine with that Opti Spark distributor... When rebuilt it should last a good while; they make thick aluminum cooling fin oil pans & like you said all sorts of go better parts... I changed the torque converter from original to one from a S-10 Chevy truck; gave 800rpm higher stall speed but the original was a better match...

[tortron]

1st gen tray cab end
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Panel unbolt, has a 3mm or so flat bar as a spacer, that could be replaced with a C channel to make a headache bar.

2nd gen factory headache bar (nz market at least) is held to cab end panel by factory bolts and was welded on in the corners.

[tortron]

Spot welds, And by the 3 upright bars which were drilled through and welded into the end panel
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Some the 2nd gen end panel is wider than the 1st gen, so could cut a little out of the middle and weld it to fit. Or make a whole new one using some C channel uprights

[xboxrox]

Thank you tortron for all these details ~ I thought the headache rack was made from square tube but it is actually "c" channel ~