Recomended So-Cal Shops

[mightymaxxin]

Hey guys, New to this site. Ive owned my 85 Mighty Max 2.6L 5 Speed Manual 4x4 for almost a year now. Me and the truck have had our ups and downs, and sometimes it seems like it may have been sitting broken down while I get money to fix it longer than I have been able to drive it. The truck has right under 86,000 on it original. Ive done a Weber Carb upgrade w/ adapter kit since the stock Mikuni gave out( rebuilt the Mikuni), as-well as a trans swap after the first one mysteriously got stuck in between 2nd and 3rd, along with a new clutch and flywheel. Current issue I ran into is the truck spewed oil everywhere while driving about 65 on the Highway. Came to a stop and would not crank over (only tried a few times and didnt want to try anymore just incase). Came from the driver side rear of the engine and shot up all under the hood. Any ideas or knowledge would be helpful to get it back on the road since its been sitting for a few months and I finally have some cash saved up. Rebuild maybe? Not too sure what to do at this point as I have no choice but to get it back up and running, or sell it. I would hate to sell it as I love this truck.


1. Fix the issue if I can identify it with everyones input? (Thoughts was maybe oil pump, chain and balance shaft? I dont know?)
2. Recommendations on Shops who do full rebuilds in So-Cal preferably Orange County/LA area?
3. If I do a full rebuild I would do a balance shaft delete along with balance all the components. Also If I rebuild the engine, I would just do a full trans rebuild as-well with the upgraded 5th.

Any input would help.

Thanks!

[geezer101]

Hi and welcome to mightyram. From what you've described it doesn't sound good. There aren't any hoses or external connections in that area so this might be a worst case scenario of a cracked block. You're not going to know what has really happened until you pull the engine out anyway. I would find another running engine in good shape and work out what path you want to take from there. If you run into problems finding a good 4G54 then another option is to find a wrecked MM with the G63B engine and manual trans and swap it in. The 2.6 is good for torque but you'll find the belt driven 2.0 is happier to rev and is more forgiving to work on.

[mightymaxxin]

Thanks @geezer101. Unfortunately a swap isn't much of an option because I do not have a mechanic who will do it that I know of, as-well as access to another engine or parts truck. Really appreciate the input, from what I've looked at though wouldn't a crack in the block be semi noticeable? I mean I couldn't even really find exactly where the oil was coming from as there was not on single area that I could pin point engine oil coming from. Could it of been a plug that came out or anything like that?

[85Ram50]

Try to contact Mike Warme he's a member on here and he prefers Text. He's somewhere in LA He could probably help you a lot.

Here ya go he was posted in the next thread I looked at 818 268 3012

[Michael Brannam]

Sound like a few things probably your half circle is leaking on back of rocker cover but also sounding like the shaft n timing belt slipped out time why want start

[geezer101]

Sound like a few things probably your half circle is leaking on back of rocker cover but also sounding like the shaft n timing belt slipped out time why want start

The half moon seal in the back of the head wouldn't be able to cause a catastrophic oiling system failure and it definitely wouldn't do it under force. They're more of a nuisance leak that messes up the back of the engine over a period of time. The 4G54 is also a timing chain engine. I haven't personally ever heard of one jumping teeth but they can become so loose you'll hear it from a mile away.

If everything is hosed down in oil it will be hard to see the crack in the block wall. All the freeze plugs in the block seal off the coolant galleries around the cylinder bores. As for a full drivetrain swap - it's a hell of a lot easier than a teardown and rebuild. This is a half day job to bolt it all in once you have the donor gear out and ready. Needs some basic tools, a engine crane from a hire place and a +1 to help guide it home. Take photos, label wires and hoses with paper tape and a sharpie, if you take a bolt out put it straight back when you've separated whatever you've undone (engine mount bolts, transmission mount nuts and spring washers etc - you can't lose them and you can't mix them up, fool proof...) A good way to learn your way around your truck without stripping down an engine to gaskets and bearings.

[mightymaxxin]

Wow all thanks for the input. Giving me some great ideas. I actually did contact Mike and talked to him for a few weeks. He was going to help me do rebuild, but just one day stopped replying to me. I even had all the funds ready(actually still do) but no reply after multiple attempts. He was actually very knowledgeable with this truck and gave me a great deal of information. Tools /space/time very very limited that's why I need a shop. I could probably do it all myself but it's just really not an option in my situation. I'm pretty backed into a corner with options and not very much to choose from unfortunately. Honestly I'd Really like to keep it original and just do rebuild, but from what I'm hearing from you guys it doesn't seem worthwhile? You all have to go easy on me as I understand something's on what you guys are saying, Google has been my friend with some of the things you guys are saying but I'm also learning a lot from everyone's input and the people I've talked to since I've owned this truck. Thanks All!

[mightymaxxin]

That's the thing the oil was mainly just all over the underside of the hood. Not much oil on the block or anything kind threw me in a loop

[mightymaxxin]

Hey guys had a question what year 4g64 or specific 4g64 would work with my km146 trans. I know they are both 6 bolt but I'm sure there are some specifics

[pennyman1]

there is the possibility the bad PCV valve and leaking rings pressurized the crankcase, and forced the oil out past the oil filler cap on the valve cover. Can you move the crank with a breaker bar?

[mightymaxxin]

@pennyman1 I can move it slightly. I don't 'have a breaker bar but just a 1 1/2 long pipe. I can turn the engine over and even put it in gear jumps forward a bit but won't start. Not sure. I looked at the engine best I could no oil from the cap, no crack on the block that I could see kinda oil coming from the oil filter area. I don't want to keep turning the engine over and maybe ruin it more if there something really wrong with it. It's hard to call because I cannot pull the engine where I am at. I pretty much have 2 weeks at this point to either get it in a shop or somewhere who would get it fixed for me. I have it posted on Craig's list at this point because I still cannot find anyone who is willing to take it on as I don't trust a lot of mechanics at shops I don't know about or they want to charge me $4000 just for labor which is crazy. If I can't get it going in the next two weeks or sold. It goes to donation (rubs eyes with tears) I really do not want to let this truck go.
Unfortunately Mike has still not replied after attempts again to contact him