Bleeding Brakes

[BJH324JH]

I'm in the process of bleeding my brakes, but I am a little confused, do you bleed the rear left wheel cylinder? I just installed a new wheel cylinder and it came with a bleeder valve, but when I installed it, I had to remove the bleeder valve to connect the two hoses. The rear right wheel cylinder only had one hose, so the bleeder valve stayed on that one.

Truck is a 1988 MITSUBISHI MIGHTY MAX, 4X4.

[pennyman1]

Bleed the right rear, then bleed the line at the proportioning block - there should be a bleeder there.

[camoit]

Brake bleeding made easy.


"They say" It's recommended to start with the right rear and work your way from the furthest to the closest.

But there are ways around it IF you know the tricks.




Line and slave replacement below.

#1:Before opening up the system disconnect the battery ground.

This will keep the battery from going dead.

#2: Using a stick or a brake pedal depressor, depress and hold the brake pedal about 1/8 to 1/4 inch after the push rod makes contact with the master cylinder. ONLY REMOVE THE STICK AFTER YOU ARE DONE REPLACING THE PART.

This will keep the reservoir from draining and air entering the system.

#3: Open the system and replace the part then seal up the system.

#4: Get a second person. Place a hose on the bleeder of the slave cylinder or caliper you just replaced or line you worked on.

#5: With the bleeder still closed lightly (by hand or foot) have the person push the pedal to the floor and hold it there.

Now you can open the bleeder. Now close the bleeder (lightly). Have the person bring the pedal back up. Now have them push and hold it down again. DO NOT LET THEM PUMP MORE THEN THE ONE TIME. Now with them holding it down open and close the bleeder with the hose on it. Have the hose go into a bottle so you can see the air and not make a huge mess. The choice is up to you. I just make a mess and shoot my load into the air. You can hear and see the air. Repeat this about 4 times. Now check the fluid on the master. If you run dry, you are screwed. Now the person should be feeling pressure and the pedal should have come up to the top and be making a full stroke pf oil out the bleeder. If things feel good you are done.




Master cylinder replacement and bleeding the easy way.

Trust me. I have used the bleeder kits that come with the master cylinder.

They suck and take longer to mess with.

NOTE: This process must be done on flat ground or with the ass of the truck higher then the front, or it wont work.




#1: suck out the old oil from the bottle using anything you can find. The woman's turkey baster works good. But first get her a new one or you will never here the end of it.

R&R the master as normal. Put the hard lines back on the master and tighten them up.

#2: Fill the bottle back up with brake oil. (there is no such thing as brake fluid. That is a slang term)

#3: Now with your hand you are going to start bumping the peddle. You only want to bump it. If you feel the pedal there should be about 1/16 to 1/8 inch of "FREE PLAY". That is the distance the pedal moves before the push rod makes contact with the master cylinder plunger. You push it and then remove your hand quickly letting the pedal come back up quickly. Bump, Bump, Bump. OR tap, tap, tap.

What you are going to do is easy. After you feel it make contact you only want to bump the pedal about 1/8 inch. Now when I say bump. I mean bump.

If you have another person with you drinking beer (like most of us do) have them look at in the reservoir and keep it full while you do this. You are basically striking the pedal and releasing it somewhat rapidly but not to fast.

(the key is the quick release)

You are only moving the master cylinder plunger 1/8 inch max.

That is just enough movement open / cover / close the small holes that let the oil into the master cylinder.

While doing this your beer buddy will say, "I see air bubbles". That's what you want. Just keep doing this for about 5 minutes or tell he says, "I don't see any big air bubbles any more just small ones".

At this point should start feeling pressure. When he says, "I only see tiny bubbles and it's not much". Go ahead and push down the pedal about 1/2 way or tell it gets hard and slowly bring it back up. NOTE: slowly bring it up. You are bleeding the master not trying to make foam in there.

Now let it sit and have your buddy go get you a beer from the fridge. Once he comes back sit in the seat with your beer and bump the peddle with your foot while drinking your brewski. He should see some tiny bubbles flowing up. Just keep bumping the pedal and about every 10th to 15th bump give a good hard push and slow release. Then go back to bumping it. After 1/2 of the beer you should be go and get that DUI you always wanted. Master Cylinders are self bleeding to a point. That is why the nose points down and the ass up.

Happy bleeding.

[BJH324JH]

Bleed the right rear, then bleed the line at the proportioning block - there should be a bleeder there.

Thanks pennyman1 (http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/member.php/5-pennyman1) and camoit (http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/member.php/1-camoit). Just to make sure I don't get myself in deep trouble, is this the bleeder valve you are referring to?:

18178

[DroppedMitsu]

Yes that is it.

[BJH324JH]

Yes that is it.

Thanks.