removing upper control arm shafts

[85Ram50]

How does one do this? I have removed the control arms scraped them and sprayed them but the outer nuts with the grease zirts(sp?) are frozen and the inner shaft with the two hole spins??? I'd hate to have to pay a mitsu dealer to do it that'll be $100 min.
I've got the lower arm spring and other parts cleaned up still waiting for a few parts.

Edit-I saw a vid on YT for a 68 Mercury that looks right. The guy had to burn it up with a torch to get it off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrpfz-FZBN0 I don't have a vice or anything sturdy enough to hold it back and let me use my weight on it.
Ideas? Correct process? The FSM doesn't show how to take it off only how to set it.

[DroppedMitsu]

I just used a press to press them out and back in when I changed the bushings

[85Ram50]

I just used a press to press them out and back in when I changed the bushings Don't think it can press out of one end or the other can't come off. As I understand it the end caps have exterior thread which lock into the CA as the shaft also threads into the cap from the inside. I think pressing it would tear up the threads that hold it???? The inner shafts only turn a little bit not freely.

[pennyman1]

the ucas are threaded endcaps, and turn opposite ways to unthread. You only need to get one end out to remove the shaft.

[DroppedMitsu]

1st gen must be different? 2nd gen is just a washer and a nut on each end of the threaded shaft.

[85Ram50]

Thanks Penny and Dropped. I figured out how to do it. I heated the ends up with a propane torch and sprayed them with liquid wrench then let them soak while I rebuilt the hubs and put on new rotors. Then I drove my Dakota front wheel on top of each one to hold it so I could get down on the breaker bar. It is a 33mm nut on the end. Edit-I had to flip it over to do each side as this method only worked pushing down on the breaker. The other direction let the CA flex and disperse the power of the breaker. Also the heat I applied did not damage the paint it only served to make the oil bubble at the top of the threads where they meet the CA then I applied the Liquid Wrench.
They are now cleaned and primered on one side. Drying as I write.
Thank You

Got the new ones in and used copper thread lube. It was tight I think I'll take it in for an alignment once I finish. Also have the ball joints pressed and greased all fittings a bit. They look good.