Weber 32/36

[Ram50Man]

Hey I was looking at the Weber 32/36's.... which one would I need for my truck? there is a few listed.... 32/36 DGEV, DGV, DGAV?? I do not know what the DGV or any of that means. I currently have a 2.0L SOHC, 5spd Man Trans, I think i have the electronic choke.... not sure.

[pennyman1]

They are all similar but not identical - dgv is the standard manual choke with the throttle attachment under the bowl, E stands for electric choke. dfav has an automatic choke and has the throttle linkage opposite the bowl and is more like the mikuni carb in operation. I have run both dgev and dfav on my 1980, neither is better than the other; it comes down to where you want the cable to be, front or rear of the carb.

[Ram50Man]

So the DFAV, has the throttle cable, closest to the firewall like the mikuni?

[pennyman1]

yes it does and rotates in the same direction - most like the mikuni

[Ram50Man]

Ok, got it. Do you need any kind of adapter to re-run the cable to the front, if all I can get my hands on is the DGEV? (it seems to be the most common to buy online)

[Acuta73]

I swear Weber had a 36/36 progressive that would fit on our trucks..now I can't find it. If you can, and want a bit more "oomph' without the gas-sucking of the 38/38 Synchro...buy one.

I know with both Redline and Weber Carbs Direct, if you specify your make/model, you will usually get the appropriate adapters as well as mounting plates (conversion kit).

[Ram50Man]

i found a guy that is willing to swap carb for carb plus $50. Not sure what kinda weber it is though, my thought is any weber has to be better than the factory Mikuni garbage though, right?

[custom 50]

what kind of electric fuel pump or fuel regulator would you need to run a weber?? been lookin up regulators and found some 1-6 psi ones how much psi do i need to run?

[DroppedMitsu]

I believe its 3-4 psi if I'm not mistaken

[pennyman1]

I run a holley that puts out 5-7 psi without a regulator - since its back by the tank, it doesn't overpressure the needle and seat like the mechanical pump off the head does. An oil pressure safety switch should also be used to prevent the pump from running when the motor loses oil pressure.

[custom 50]

is it possible to just run a regulator?

[pennyman1]

If you run a regulator between the pump and carb, the back pressure will blow the pump in short order; I know this from experience. Use an electric pump mounted back by the tank after the fuel filter

[79D50fan]

Just did a DGEV on my 2.6 5-speed... cant believe i waited so long... Its 99% better now than the "rebuilt" OEM pile... Now if i can just fix my "stuck" brakelights !

[pennyman1]

Its the brakelight switch at the top of the pedal - just unscrews and unplugs. About $20 - its used on many different cars and trucks of the era. Don't bother getting a used one; it is just as old and ready to fail.

[84RamBo4x4]

interesting that you mentioned that about the fuel pump PennyMan. I installed a new mech. pump with holly regulator in february a few weeks ago the truck felt sluggish i checked the pressure and was only making 1 psi couldnt imagine a new fuel pump failing in a few months I guess now I know why! where did you mount your electric pump?

[pennyman1]

at the tank after the filter - I made a plate that spanned the bed mounts and mounted the pump and filter to it. Run 12 ga wire to the pump to prevent voltage drop due to the long run.

[84RamBo4x4]

what brand/model of pump are you using? i have the Weber (solex) pos now i was looking and apparently Weber Carbs Direct isnt even selling the solex carbs now. What actually fails in the mech. fuel pump due to the regulator? what kind hp numbers are possible with the 2.0 with minor mods ...carb..header..exhaust...etc

[pennyman1]

Its a Holley - 70gph I think. Solex is out of the carb business, thats why they don't sell them any more. The diaphram collaspes in the pump and won't move gas. The 2.0 is limited by a lack of parts - headers currently are non- existant until blindeyed gets the one I sold him and has it reproduced; carb with a 32/36 will improve power and economy and can be adjusted and rejetted for future mods. A custom bent 2" exhaust will also help with the flow but not be too big to hurt low end torque. I can't give you numbers yet as my 86 project truck is still stock; it won't be once I have time to work on it.

[84RamBo4x4]

got my "GENUINE" Weber (not pos solex) in the mail today cant wait to install it!

[pennyman1]

take some pictures of the install so others can see how easy it is to do.

[OCD Boss]

I called up Weber, and in talking to the rep, and they looked up my truck and told me there were 2 carbs for it. 1 is the 32-36, and the other is the K610-38. Now the rep said that the K610-38 is a better carb. What are people's thoughts on it? I need to order a carb asap.

[camoit]

Did you tell them the engine was stock, or did you pump it up by adding a cam or pistons? Don't get to big of a carb. Altitude comes into play also.

[roro13]

I called up Weber, and in talking to the rep, and they looked up my truck and told me there were 2 carbs for it. 1 is the 32-36, and the other is the K610-38. Now the rep said that the K610-38 is a better carb. What are people's thoughts on it? I need to order a carb asap.
I just installed a Weber 32/36 on my 80 d50 and i love it!

[pennyman1]

The k610-38 is the 38 dgas 2 bbl synchronous carb - its only for the 2.6 with a cam, header and a larger exhaust. The carb will put too much fuel into a stock motor no matter how lean you jet it, and cause flat spots and other issues. The 32/36 is more than enouugh for all but the highly modded motors.

[camoit]

Please let us know what you put on. Take some pictures of the install, along with a description of the problems and how they were solved. Thanks.

[OCD Boss]

Awesome info guys! I ended up ordering the 32/36 DFEV kit. I am waiting for it in the mail, but I will definitely take and post pictures of everything and keep people posted as to how this works out. Along with the carb, I am also replacing the fuel filters, performance spark plugs, spark plug wires, and I'm on the search for a distributor cap that has brass contacts. Haven't found one yet but please if someone knows where I can order one, let me know. And I will be finally removing the rear bumper and tailgate, and replacing it with a Bully net. I am eager to see if all this resolves my hesitation issue that I have been fighting. I have noticed it gets worse as the truck runs (particularly with freeway driving and high speeds). If this doesn't resolve it, I will be on to the fuel pump and considering (don't want to have to yet, but will if I have to) rebuilding the motor. Thanks for everybody's input, and you'll hear from me soon enough.

Here is a picture of the 32/36 Weber kit that I just picked up from www.webercarbsdirect.com


1331

[camoit]

One trick I did when I changed over my carb was to take the stock carb throttle cable mount off of the old carb and tack weld it to the new carb linkage. The new carb wants you to cut the barrel off the end of the cable and use the clamp set up that comes with it. I looked at that and saw a better way. By adding it to the side of the linkage plate I was able to retain the stock cable and then it uses a ramp style pull for the cable. It looks like factory when done. I'll see if I can have Mopar_ja get a picture of it.
Here is the one I'm going to use on the Edelbrock I'm putting on the truck now. By using the stock ramps you can get better throttle control. It depends on how the ramp is made. This one will give better mid range control. The ramp flattens out there. This came off a GM. FI system.

1333

[OCD Boss]

I'm ashamed to admit that I took my truck in to have the carb, fuel pump, and fuel filter replaced. The pump and filter were oem and the carb was the new Weber. However, this job that was quoted for 1.5 hours of labor, has now turned into a whole other beast. So after the mechanic put it all together, he attempted to turn over the engine and had no luck. After some troubleshooting, he discovered that the truck wasn't giving a spark. He thought maybe it was the ignition coil, but then put a "working one" (whatever that was suppose to mean) on and apparently that didn't resolve anything for us either. So can anybody give me some direction to give to this guy?

[Acuta73]

If it worked when you sent it to him? I'd lay money on a loose/unplugged connection. Techs NEVER unplug anything to make workspace...

Another thought is, he unhooked wires for room, and didn't hook them back up right. I know my 86 had about 6 wires going to the coil/ballast stock. Failing that? Check power from ignition, work your way to the dizzy and find where the power stops.

Camoit- I just used the cable connector that came in the kit, however I used a dremel to slot the post with the hole in it so I could slip my cable in without cuttin off the barrel thingy at the end of the cable. Tightens with the set screw to retain it. Works slick.

[OCD Boss]

Gotcha, so they did some more looking around and found out it is a bad ignitor. So now they are just working on ordering a new one and installing it. Thanks for the feed back Acuta73.

[Acuta73]

I hope it is so, they're gonna charge you up the ass for a 5 minute job, though....

The ignitor for that Dizzy is more expensive than the whole goddam Dizzy on the Napa site!

[mopar_ja]

Okay, I know its been a little while but I an still here just working and working on my truck. So here are the pics that Camoit was talking about. I will apologize now if they are not the right size.

1350

1351

1352

[camoit]

The pictures are the correct size. It automatically resizes them into a thumbnail. Just click it. So did you get it running yet? Thanks for getting the pictures up. I hope it helps people to see one option that may be over looked when making the conversion. It took like 30 minutes to set it up that way and makes for a quick cable removal, no tools. OH by the way, the radiator you got from me was an over sized unit. I had an extra row of cores and larger tanks added to it.

[Uneek98]

So since this is a sticky .....lets get some pics of where vacuum lines go. Also if your running an electric pump is there a return line from carb?

[Acuta73]

When you install the Weber, 99% of your vacuum lines go away. Only thing you need to worry about is capping them off at the source. Only important connections on a Weber are fuel, choke, and throttle. That's it.

There is no return line off the Weber, you can get pressure regulators with a return line, though.

[Uneek98]

When you install the Weber, 99% of your vacuum lines go away. Only thing you need to worry about is capping them off at the source. Only important connections on a Weber are fuel, choke, and throttle. That's it.

There is no return line off the Weber, you can get pressure regulators with a return line, though.

I know most the vacuum lines go away but there is a certain line for the distributor advance......also you can pull the computer out and get rid of most the wires.....I want to run an electric pump.....also has anyone come up with a manual fuel pump block off plate for the 2.0??

[Acuta73]

Got me on the advance, forgot about it. But that's just one line from the dizzy.

As for a block plate, if you have access to some basic hand tools, make one out of a piece of scrap aluminum. All I did.

[Uneek98]

Got me on the advance, forgot about it. But that's just one line from the dizzy.

As for a block plate, if you have access to some basic hand tools, make one out of a piece of scrap aluminum. All I did.

Thanks man.......any idea where to get the aluminum?? Also what thickness did you use? Also did u keep the spacer on?

[Acuta73]

I just had some scrap sheet laying around, used the spacer and epoxy'd the sheet to it. Works, but not the greatest. Best would be to find a piece of ~1/4" and buy a couple shorter bolts. Can use a gasket or just some grey RTV for install.

[pennyman1]

I made my blockoff plate out of some scrap s/s sheet I cut out of a poker machine to install a bill acceptor - I used the spacer as a template. There is no oil pressure against it, and not a real high temperature, so as long as you use silicone form a gasket to seal it, you could use heavy gauge sheet steel to make the plate. As for the vac advance, connect it to the fitting on the carb above the throttle plate - its the ported vacuum fitting and is different than full vacuum from below the throttle plate. Ported vacuum will increase and pull the vac advance as the throttle opens, whereas full vacuum drops as the throttle opens, and the vac advance will not move.

[Uneek98]

I made my blockoff plate out of some scrap s/s sheet I cut out of a poker machine to install a bill acceptor - I used the spacer as a template. There is no oil pressure against it, and not a real high temperature, so as long as you use silicone form a gasket to seal it, you could use heavy gauge sheet steel to make the plate. As for the vac advance, connect it to the fitting on the carb above the throttle plate - its the ported vacuum fitting and is different than full vacuum from below the throttle plate. Ported vacuum will increase and pull the vac advance as the throttle opens, whereas full vacuum drops as the throttle opens, and the vac advance will not move.

Alright thanks....

[TheProspector]

Does anybody have a link or part # to the fuel pump we need for the weber conversion to function correctly?

Also how is this fuel pump mounted? Is it going in the actual tank or are we routing as an inline pump? I am ordering my weber tonight and trying to make this install as smooth as possible.

[TheProspector]

Does anybody have a link or part # to the fuel pump we need for the weber conversion to function correctly?

Also how is this fuel pump mounted? Is it going in the actual tank or are we routing as an inline pump? I am ordering my weber tonight and trying to make this install as smooth as possible.

[BradMph]

I just ordered the Carter 4070 Fuel pump off ebay for $60.00 delivered for free. The reviews and recommendations were pretty good. It should arrive soon. This was my preference only though from researching through forums and other sources. You will probably get a few other types that folks use also.

Carter#180-P4070
Electric Fuel Pump
Pump with 1/4" NPT Inlet and Outlet
4-6 psi Output
No Regulator Required
72 gph Free Flow
5166

[mitchugh]

Does anybody have a link or part # to the fuel pump we need for the weber conversion to function correctly?

Also how is this fuel pump mounted? Is it going in the actual tank or are we routing as an inline pump? I am ordering my weber tonight and trying to make this install as smooth as possible.

I'd also be interested in this too. Where did you order your weber from?

[netskink]

I recently purchased a weber from carbs.us

[derek6790]

Hello. You mentioned the difference of having the throttle behind or in front of the carb. I have a the 34/34 dgec Solex, and it works fine, but i have heard that it has around 300 cfm, while the 32/36 dgev Weber has 325 cfm. I'd like to get better economy but also more cfm at full throttle. My throttle is behind the carb and pulls toward the passenger side. Suggestions on which variation of electric choke Weber to use?

[mopar_ja]

Hello. You mentioned the difference of having the throttle behind or in front of the carb. I have a the 34/34 dgec Solex, and it works fine, but i have heard that it has around 300 cfm, while the 32/36 dgev Weber has 325 cfm. I'd like to get better economy but also more cfm at full throttle. My throttle is behind the carb and pulls toward the passenger side. Suggestions on which variation of electric choke Weber to use? you could go no electric choke and run manual that's what i'm doing.

[77amc]

I tried a 'yard' weber on my '86 auto 2.6 and have never adapted my kick-down T.V. linkage. (just up and down shifted manually)
ALWAYS had an issue of starting and running for about 15sec and die.. then would turn over, and over and after about 2min finally fires and finally run. Now, I did get some larger idle jets since it's a 2.6 and the off-idle acceleration seemed to help lots, but NO tire burner by ANY means..
This is using the stock head mounted pump since i pulled the OUT line and man, it sprayed about 5'! So, it stayed. Stock, truck intake too.

(stay with me here..) Picked up a '85 civic hatchback and pulled the miles of vacuum lines off with stock carb and used the trucks' 32/36 carb.
and dangit!! same thing. Even with the electric idle valve hooked up.

GOT on Ebay and picked up a couple more 32's but that took me a couple of weeks. (for the civic and the truck)
In the meantime, I got some scrap aluminum and was digging through my crap and found a ol Rochester dual jet carb (2bbl) that I rebuilt a couple years ago, found an old Conquest 2.6 intake, cut it down, got rid of the EGR and water heating portions and popped it on.
Got it running but can't seem to upload it to here like you kids are doing. Imageshack has all my other stuff held in ransom unless I upgrade, then I can
post a pic or vid.
BUT MAN!! talk about throttle response! MPG will probably drop since those two jets/squirters squirt ANY TIME you move that throttle.
AND, the stock auto T.V. linkage is only about 1.5" away.. NOTHING that a little welding can't take care of though. Another thing is that the kick-down
WILL be hooked up this time.

While I wait for the rebuild kits and carb cleaner to get in all those nooks and cranny's I'll mess with this Rochester.
Pennyman, Camoit.. If I can send you some pics/vids of the rochester running for you guys to post would help.

ANOTHER project I'm kinda messing with is to cut the stock carb intake where the ports come together in a "Y" and have two Cycle carb side drafts or two 34ICT's from a Bug application. (Even USED, they're expensive little buggers for whatcha get)

IS THIS THREAD JACKING?? Not really. I'll still get the stock 2.6 auto intake going with the 32/36 after I rebuild it and swap it out to see the difference between the Weber and Rochester.
NOW, you gotta understand that the difference between fuel demands between a 2.0 and a 2.6 is HUGE.. Just sayin

Just a different look at 'carburetion'. Not everyone here can drop about 300-450.00 for weber/adapter/fuel pump. i picked up the Rochester
for under 25.00, rebuild kit was about 20, adapter was pretty much free, just time (and a tube of liquid metal for any imperfections. NOT that i had any..)

OH, For the guys that have an AUTO truck, the sources state to use the STOCK carb linkage/cable pull eccentric for accelerator AND kick-down linkage.
Now, looking at it I thought "these guys are NUTS" and it's nowhere near working the TV cable/linkage..
BUT, that's what "THEY" recommend.
I found this out by contacting the suppliers that show an AUTO application but the exploded view doesn't show ANY kickdown adaptation(s) and
put them on the spot by asking them, how the heck one connects it..?

Here is some good reading also. FOCUS here.. I know it's British car stuff but good info nonetheless.
and click and search the links too and if the links have links..
Some Weber places are really tight lipped on what size jets/tubes and such are in what carb.. BUT I can't seem to find it on my laptop.

In addition to carb work, PLEASE check your timing and vacuum advance FIRST!! Then start looking at the carb stuff.
There are symptoms that seem like a carb issue but really are advance/or timing/or vacuum leaks..

OK, Ok.. I'll shut up and get to work.

Errol

[pennyman1]

Sounds great that you got the rochester carb to work, but not everyone here has the time or talent to make that conversion. There are also holley weber 5200s out there from 80s k cars that can be used and are similar to the webers, as they were a weber licensed design, but are finicky due to the emissions parts on them. The rochester sounds like it would be like a dges 38 in operation. I have a set of kawasaki sidedraft fuel injection throttle bodies with injectors and spare intakes that I am going to see if I can fab up for one of my trucks soon - this is a big mod for nissan 240sx and other 4 cyl cars.

[crashman911]

What kind of HP improvement comes with the weber 32/36 on a stock 87 dodge ram 50 2.0


Screwed up and got BANED

<<<<<< WARNING >>>>>>


This new user has been posting his junk for sale on the board and is NOT A DONATOR.
He has been baned.
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Read more below.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...son-or-another (http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/624-People-banned-for-one-reason-or-another)

[Uneek98]

Will the weber adapter plates from g63b work on a g52b?

[camoit]

Will the weber adapter plates from g63b work on a g52b?

I beleve they will. It uses the same carb it's just a 2.0 VS 2.6.

[Uneek98]

I beleve they will. It uses the same carb it's just a 2.0 VS 2.6.

Thanks

[pennyman1]

they will fit - the adaptor is made to cover any of the mitsu based motors

[Uneek98]

Awesome thanks.

[Law Dog]

What MPG are some of you guys getting? I'm getting a little over 13 MPG with my stock carb what can I expect from a Spanish Weber carb set-up? 2.6 5 speed in mine.

[pennyman1]

much better than 13 mpg - I get 25mpg with Geronimo running at 80 - 85, but I also have a header and a custom 2.25 inch flowmaster exhaust with the proper jetting

[Law Dog]

Heck if I got 18 I'd be thrilled 25MPG would be euphoric!

Thanks Jerry

[noahwins]

I'm a little confused about the return line on the 32/36. I don't see this green arrow connection on my Weber. I guess mine wasn't a "California" model. I see there are the two inlets at a 30* angle for fuel, so you can get fuel no matter how you orient the carb. My question is since I don't have this return line provision, could I use the 2nd, plugged up inlet as a return line? Or would that create a fuel "short circuit" and bleed off fuel meant for the bowl?

10084

I also see that the bowl vent is sealed off on mine. So I can drill and NPT tap this, attach a fitting and send the line to the charcoal canister?

I'm doing all of this because the Chinese fake Weber I bought perpetually stunk of gas, had random weeping gas leaks and I want to do it the right way this time. Also concerned about vapor lock and drivability issues. I just want this thing vented and sealed 100%.

BTW, this is a great, very thorough article on Weber 32/36 I found:

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Weber_32/36_Carburetorhttp://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Weber_32/36_Carburetor

[pennyman1]

Don't use the opposite fitting for the return, it will send all the fuel to the tank. Don't need the bowl vent either, unless you want the emissions look. Besides, if you look at the top of the carb, the bowl is vented to the air through the hole in front of the carb throat between the bores.

[noahwins]

I'm going off this guy, who runs a business modifying these carbs for crawler applications:

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,72354.msg761158.htmlPHPSESSID=46f6d01c590385 97e9a73a3adb9e9de8#msg761158


On the DGV series Weber the vacuum advance port is the one nearest the float bowl, 3/16" diameter hose. On the Sami, you'll need a 3/16"x1/8" adapter so the line fits properly at the distributor . Keep the 3/16" section of hose fairly short, this will keep the signal speed consistent .

If you have an emissions equipped Weber the EGR port will have a small screw plug in the end of the brass port . To use the EGR you will have to retain the oem EGR controller and wiring off the stock intake , just substitute the Weber in place of the Hitachi . Be aware that most of the EGR valves are not operational due to carbon buildup in the intake and head ports , they must be cleaned as well as the valve itself , not a fun job .

Electric pump installations work well with these carbs but pressure against the pump and excessive pressure at the carb is also a problem . If the carb has both inlet ports tapped it's pretty simple-

The stock lines on the frame rail are 8mm/ 5/16", put a good quality fuel filter (paper element only) a few inches away from the carb .

Remove the second inlet port plug on the carb and it's aluminum gasket washer . The hole is 1/8-28BSP but a 1/8" NPT fitting will work ok . Buy a 1/8"NPTx3/16" clamp style rigid male brass fitting at your local parts store , any store that supplies brass made by Edelmann will have them available . Route this 3/16" line back down to the frame rail to the return line , on most Sami's it's the middle one .

If the carb is not equipped with a second tapped inlet port then you must use the CJ/Fram filter with a built-in bypass .

Make sure to mount the fuel pump reasonably low in relation to the tank, this helps with priming and makes the pump last longer .

The use of a return line does two things-cool the pump and allow a much lower pressure at the carb .

The vapor return line from the canister plugs either into the port directly below the carb or one of the pair just ahead of the carb .

Here's a link to the brass fitting for return lines mounted directly on the carb-
http://www.plews-edelmann.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1865&location_id=2516
Part #820230

Sarge

He says the smaller 3/8 outlet creates enough backpressure to keep it at about 3 psi.

For the charcoal canister, you can drill 4 small holes in the inlet directly over the bowl and attach a fitting and run it to the canister.

[noahwins]

Wouldn't venting to the atmosphere waste gas (and money), make the engine bay smell like fumes and be bad for the environment? I'd rather have a sealed system so the vapor can be re-used. Plus if there's no raw fuel smell, if you smelled raw fuel you'd know something was wrong, instead of it smelling like that all the time. There's no real performance loss on a truck like this by using a canister.

[Law Dog]

Just picked up a K610 32/36 it looks like it's between the K614 32/36 and the K610-38 performance wise?

[Uneek98]

What upgrades warrant a weber 38?

[Law Dog]

Got the carb on no problem just wondering what vacuum lines I can remove, is the computer mute now also? My vacuum advance comes off a tree on the exhaust manifold and there is a place on the carb base to hook that too so what place is better? So all the water sensors with vacuum lines can be discarded also as long as the source is capped off?
Looks like the distributor advance and the brake booster lines are the only vacuum lines that need to be hooked up then.

Let me know if this sounds right or not please.

[pennyman1]

those are the only 2 vacuum lines you need - the computer is no longer needed, and the egr will stay shut without the vacuum opening it when the motor is at operating temp. Use the vacuum line above the throttle plate - it is ported vacuum and is meant to operate the vac advance of the distributor.

[BradMph]

What upgrades warrant a weber 38?


The 38 is 2 mm bigger for more air and overall city driving would probably not be your normal driving routine. They have more torque with the sync linkage verses the progressive. Headers, no cat, shorter exhaust maybe a rebuild with oversized parts to move more air. If I had the choice, I would just get the newer Weber 40 downdraft instead of the 38 and get a couple more millimeters to play with.

[Law Dog]

Says I need a "keyed" power source for the choke, will the coil fuse link work? It is key powered and close to the carb.


Update: That porcelain fuselink next to coil worked sweet for the electric choke power source, I drove it and there was not much of a change until I adjusted the timing then she would scoot better.

Instructions need to be upgraded! IMO Just figured out where the vent elbow goes only because it was in an accessory photo! LOL

[RamRock50]

Hi everyone,

I recently got me one of these new weber carbs (from Spain - after I asked for a refund, but more on that later) and have finished cleaning up the intake manifold after taking off the old carb. However, there are two things about the manifold conversion kit that do concern me a bit:


From the manifold, there seems to be an area that has coolant running through it. With the conversion kit, there is no place for this coolant to run through - it will get completely cut off. Is that supposed to happen?
The first part of the manifold conversion kit does not have a big enough area in the middle for both intake manifold holes. A bit of both of them get covered up on the sides. I am wondering if the conversion kit I got is the correct one.


Pic for question 1:
11204

Pic for question 2:
11205

[geezer101]

That coolant gallery in your first pic is the return port for the auto choke on a standard Mikuni carb and is not needed for the Weber conversion. And it is usually the case that the adapters overhang the ports on the manifold (grab yourself a die grind or hand file it and match up the adapter base to the ports as it will improve flow. Also make sure the walls of the inner plenum throat are sanded nice and smooth to finish it off) The adapters appear to have been designed for use on the older all alloy Mikuni/Solex carbies, and as such the ports are smaller on those manifolds.

[RamRock50]

Thank you for your help, geezer! I won't be able to open up the adapter's throat myself, but I know some people who might be able to take care of that for me.

[pennyman1]

If you are worried about the coolant port under the adaptor plate, tap the hole and screw in an allen setscrew coated with pipe dope to seal it. I did that to Geronimo 31 years ago, and he has never leaked a drop of antifreeze from that port.

[geezer101]

Thank you for your help, geezer! I won't be able to open up the adapter's throat myself, but I know some people who might be able to take care of that for me.
Yeah, you can handle that! Don't even need a die grinder tool - a carbide tip or a stone on a power drill will make short work of that adapter. The alloy is relatively soft and you are only taking off the thin trailing edge of the overhang leading into the plenum ports. Clean it up afterwards with some wet and dry and job's done! You could even go a little nuts on it and try polishing it up for good measure. And please - give that filthy inlet manifold of yours a good clean first with non-caustic oven cleaner and an old tooth brush, it will come up factory fresh. :grin:

[thehive]

i think he's talking about popping the space out between the two holes to open it up more.

like this
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/r568/thehive201/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-12-01_21-49-00_585_zps3cb0865b.jpg (http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/thehive201/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-12-01_21-49-00_585_zps3cb0865b.jpg.html)

[geezer101]

The floor in that plenum is smoooooth as! How many layers of adapter plate are on that manifold?

[RamRock50]

Thanks for the advise, guys! So, I have the carb mounted in the vehicle, but I just realized that I didn't do all of my research: I have an automatic transmission and apparently there is nowhere on the lever that the a/t kickdown cable can be connected to. Honestly, I do not want to have to get another part and wait for it to show up at my door, so I am considering "unconventional" ways of getting that kickdown cable connected to the lever if you know what I mean. Any ideas? Worst case scenario, I have some duck tape laying around somewhere...

[noahwins]

Save yourself a lot of pain and just order the kickdown linkage from Redline. It's proven, it fits, it works as advertised.

[RamRock50]

I am about to send a response email to the Redline rep I got a hold of, but before I do, I want to mention that he told me in the email, "Please can you confirm how the vehicle is working the kick down is for passing gear and is not mandatory for the auto transe [f]unction." I have not fired up the Ram 50 since I installed the carb, but if I did and took it out for a spin, would I really be okay? How will my truck function without the kickdown cable being used?

[pennyman1]

not a good idea - the tranny needs the kickdown to work properly. It will not downshift when needed and be sluggish and will cause problems all around. Get the kickdown lever and set the cable up for a slight slack with the throttle plates at rest.

[Andy 2]

I just started the Weber install on my '88 auto trans and have the same issue with the kickdown cable. Does anyone know a part # or kit # to order?

[maxdsm]

http://youtu.be/A44-xG3pKlY


http://youtu.be/fhYSo6u-Jm0


http://youtu.be/BfIH26O2Ijg

ENJOY

[maxdsm]

http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=15434.0

[noahwins]

Good install thread but the poor guy got a fake.

[pennyman1]

He also didn't tap and plug the 2 coolant ports on the manifold with allen screws - these fed the old carbs choke. If you don't tap and seal them off, they can over time start to leak coolant either into the intake or all over the side of the block. Most install manuals for these carbs leave that out - mine from when I installed the weber on Geronimo in 1983 came with the screws and stressed this point.

[noahwins]

Is yours Italian? Still got a copy of the manual?

[pennyman1]

Yes its italian, and I may still have that manual - I will hunt for it. Saw it not that long ago.

[Andy 2]

I was gonna say the same thing about that carb. It doesn't look like the one I just installed. Very similar but I don't see any "WEBER" in any castings.
I managed to hook up the shifter cable by making up my own linkage parts. I used a bit of 304 stainless from the scrap bin at work, and bought some stainless hardware.1218412185
121811218212183.

[pennyman1]

nice work - that looks like you put some time into that! You thought about making a few of those and selling them on here?

[Andy 2]

Thanks Pennyman1. It did take a bit of time figuring it out. Cereal box cardboard is great for making templates for stuff like this. When you get it the way you want it, just unfold it and trace it out on the metal. The oblong hole for the shaft took a good hour to drill and file to fit and was the hardest part. I hadn't thought about selling them. I'm surprised that Redline does not include anything in the kit for that cable. They advertise it as being for the truck with automatic.

[pennyman1]

that linkage adaptor is extra - the kits that are for auto trucks should come with them, but yours did not for some reason. You did great with making a solution that works.

[kcminitrucker]

i just installed a weber can i get any help i need pictures of all around the vacuum lines everything i cant get my truck to run once i installed it please help

[Andy 2]

Hi, welcome to the site. If you look at the pics I posted you'll see one vacuum line going from the bottom of the weber to the distributor. This is the only one you will need. Any other vacuum ports on the manifold need to be capped off. If you look below the carb in my pic you'll see the brass plug i used to replace the vacuum fitting that had about 5 tubes coming out of it. I replaced the thermo valves with brass plugs also. The line you see coming from the EGR valve is just for show. I ran it to the aluminum box on the fender where half of the old vacuum lines went anyway. The emissions test places like to see it hooked up or they won't test the vehicle.
I had to squirt a bit of gas down the carb to get it to fire at first and after that no troubles. If you are using the mechanical fuel pump you could be cranking for a while to fill the float bowl before it'll fire. Try dumping a bottle cap of gas down the carb, make sure the choke is on and crank it over. It may take more than one try if all the fuel has drained back to the fuel tank.

[noahwins]

The lack of an affordable auto linkage has come up a few times here and on other forums where they use this carb. Might be worth it to make a few and sell them. Looks professional.

[BradMph]

Fuel, Spark, Mechanical....I'm sure mechanical is OK, Be sure your getting fuel and spark and follow thru on Andy's info.

[Andy 2]

That linkage was not all that difficult to make, but it was quite time consuming. I made it at work on my lunch breaks. All you need are a grinder, a vise, drill, small file or dremel, and a hammer.... plus a bit of patience. The most important thing is to maintain the relationship between the shifter cable and the throttle plate. I made sure the distance between the centre of the holes was the same as that of the Mikuni linkage, and that the holes were the same size . I wanted the cable to pull the same distance with respect to the throttle position. The straight piece is to compensate for the adapter plates and there was not a predetermined length for this so long as it wasn't too short. There is plenty of adjustment in the adjuster to set the cable tension. There is no quick way for me to make up a quantity of these and be able to sell them cheaply. I had to grind and file and fit the piece using old school methods and would have to remove it from the carb to do it again. If I had made the pieces up before I installed the carb it probably would have been easier and I would recommend that to anyone who wants to make one.

[kcminitrucker]

why is my weber squeeking???

[BradMph]

Air leak, gasket issue. take some soapy water mix and shoot it around the base. If the throttle raises you found your squeak. Or maybe a mouse has made a home in it. :lmao:

[kcminitrucker]

i put a weber in my truck but i cant seem to get the idle settings right it idles low while its cold then just right when it warms up and its running rich any helpful hints or tips

[intimidator03]

I just wanted to note that in my talks with redline weber, I inquired about the AT kickdown linkage and the gentlemen bluntly said they don't make it. Also refered me to a place called triangle auto supply to order parts for my webber. I called them and got the same response in regards to AT kickdown.

[Andy 2]

I got pretty much the same malarky from the place on eBay where I got mine also.

[pennyman1]

Take a look at this kit - its an old linkage adaptor set on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-carburetor-universal-cable-linkage-kit-99007116-DGV-series-carbs-/221670975833?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item339c9ea959&vxp=mtr or this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Redline-Weber-Universal-Carb-Linkage-99007-113-/271780225879?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f475d2357&vxp=mtr

[BradMph]

I am surprised redline didn't have a better answer for this problem. Sometimes creating your own piece to fit the carb for the kick down could work or modify the old carb's piece to fit the weber if it's available. Seems frustrating when the manufacturer is sort of brushing you off. Keep us posted.

[Andy 2]

The linkage I made works perfectly. The pics are on page 4 of this thread. All you need is a bit of 12 gauge mild steel and a few tools. I made the tricky piece out of cereal box cardboard first using the Weber linkage to hold it against to figure out where to bend it.Then I used the Mikuni linkage as a reference for the throttle shaft hole and cable hole positions. This is necessary to keep the relationship between the accelerator and the shift cable the same. If the correct distance between these holes is not maintained the tranny will not shift or kick down properly. I made a few cardboard pieces before getting one that I liked. From start to finish I think it took me about 4 hours. I had to keep walking back and forth from the truck to the vise when filing out the hole for the throttle shaft.

[pennyman1]

Not everyone has your skills or the tools to do what you did, it is a fine piece of work. I understand that it is also not something you can do and make a lot of money at it. We just need someone with a 3d printer to scan it and then it could be printed out whenever one is needed. Not likely in this economy though...

[Andy 2]

I think that anyone who can do this carb swap would understand the principle. You are probably right in that not everyone would have the tools to make those two pieces. Perhaps, if one were to take a cardboard model of the pieces to a high school metalworking shop, someone there would be willing to help. I would think they are always looking for something new and challenging to do. The cost would probably be minimal as well.

[noahwins]

Do you still have the cardboard template and indications where to bend the metal?

[Andy 2]

I believe it is in my toolbox at work. I could trace it, dimension it, scan it, and post it here if you think it will help.

[pennyman1]

that would be great if you could do that - it will help anyone doing a weber on an auto tranny truck.

[Andy 2]

Here is the tricky piece.

13232


For the straight piece, I just measured from the cable hole to the hole in tricky piece, and added about 1/2". So long as it's not too short there is lots of adjustment in the adjuster on the manifold. There is on my '88 that is. I used a #10 machine screw with jam nuts to join the two pieces.

[BradMph]

Nice work Andy, I may make a request for a kick down on my Tbird, lol. Glad to see it posted here, definitely should help someone. Keep it in your Gallery for quick locating.

[intimidator03]

I do like the pictures for the DIY kickdown linkage... I personally have no issues building one. I see his carb has the throttle fitting on the firewall side of the carb... Mine is on the radiator side of the carb. I think ill need to fab some sort of bell crank. Just not sure how much movement is needed as I never had the factory set up in place.

[Andy 2]

Sounds like you have the carb made for the manual tranny. Being as the cable is connected to the throttle shaft you will need to be able to pull the cable from any throttle position to cause the tranny to kick down at any speed. The tension setting at zero throttle determines when the tranny will shift under normal acceleration. Too tight and the tranny shifts gears at higher speeds and vise versa.
Here's a page from my Haynes manual.


13254

[kstokes606]

I just got a 32/36 DFEV carb kit #K-614 used and I need to find the installation instructions for it. Also need to find a fuel pump block-off plate.

[noahwins]

Mr. Gasket 1516 works for a fuel pump block off plate drilling out the holes slightly.

[Andy 2]

This might help you...http://nebula.wsimg.com/a04c1c5ad703691fae7efb86282d9fa1?AccessKeyId=1BCC5 713D09EAE2BF373&disposition=0&alloworigin=1
As for a block off plate,if you want to make your own, you can use the plastic spacer for the fuel pump as a template, and cut a piece of metal the same shape with the same holes. I used 304 stainless steel about 1/8" thick.

[kstokes606]

I made a block-off plate for the fuel pump. It was not to hard. Used the plastic spacer as Andy 2 said and done.

[kstokes606]

Thanks for the guide. It was what I was looking for to make sure that I did not miss anything. I am going to have to make a mod to hookup the kick down cable for my automatic transmission also, wish me luck.

[Andy 2]

Ram50Man wrote..."i found a guy that is willing to swap carb for carb plus $50. Not sure what kinda weber it is though, my thought is any weber has to be better than the factory Mikuni garbage though, right?"
I found 2 Weber conversion kits that come with 32/36 carbs for our trucks. The K614 carb is a DFEV and its throttle rotates clockwise. It is most like the Mikuni when mounted with the throttle control toward the firewall. It is said to be for the auto trans trucks and the throttle cable lines up above the kickdown cable. There is, however, no linkage piece to connect the kickdown cable which seems silly. I know this kit will work on 2nd gen. trucks with manual trans as well with no linkage issues.
The K610 carb is somewhat the reverse of the K614. It is a DGEV carb and its throttle rotates counter clockwise. If this carb was mounted with the throttle toward the firewall, the throttle cable would have to pull away from the engine, and the choke would be on the engine side of the carb. It mounts with the cable control toward the front of the truck. This kit does not come with the Mikuni style cable attachment piece (the 1/4 circle with the hole for the cable end). I got this one for the 4x4 which is a 5 speed and had to trim and weld my Mikuni cable attachment to the Webers. Both carbs are 32/36, and both have electric choke, but they are not the same carb. If you don't want to have issues with the cable attachment, I would try and get the right Weber.

[pennyman1]

For those people who were told an auto kickdown bracket doesn't exist - look above the exhaust plugs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Mazda-Mitsubishi-2-6-AT-Weber-Carb-Conversion-/400728845221?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AMitsubishi&hash=item5d4d4ceba5 . The kit is from Redline to boot!

[BradMph]

For those people who were told an auto kickdown bracket doesn't exist - look above the exhaust plugs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Mazda-Mitsubishi-2-6-AT-Weber-Carb-Conversion-/400728845221?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AMitsubishi&hash=item5d4d4ceba5 . The kit is from Redline to boot!

That kit comes with a carb too!

[pennyman1]

But the adaptor for the kickdown does exist as a weber part.

[Andy 2]

I'd like to know if anyone has gotten that kickdown linkage to work without needing extra parts.

[kcminitrucker]

Ok so i recently installed a weber on my truck i have two questions... i have two large bolts idk what they are for and my next question its running too rich ive adjusted the carb to run when i first turn on my truck but it makes it run rich i believe the idle should be higher while warming up but is not how do i fix this and how do i get my maintenance required light to turn off?

[Andy 2]

My kits came with two large "bolts" also. I believe they are plugs for the exhaust manifold where the reed valve pipe threads in. Those Weber kits come with parts for both 2.6L and 2.0L engines. If you take the reed valve off you will need one of them to screw back into the manifold.

If you look at the instructions that came with the kit, you will see a section called Carburetor Adjustments on page 5. If you don't have them any more look here...http://nebula.wsimg.com/a04c1c5ad703691fae7efb86282d9fa1?AccessKeyId=1BCC5 713D09EAE2BF373&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

I didn't know there was a maintenance light on these carbureted trucks. lol . Its probably for the emissions system, EGR and O2 sensor service. You won't be using those now that you have installed the Weber. I would take the instrument panel out and remove the light bulb so you never have to see it again.

[kcminitrucker]

ok but i ended up breaking that pipe off it was very brittle but i cant unscrew the part that went into the exaust maanifold its like the basterd is welded in there idk how to get the fucker out i spent an hour and a half justtrying to get it off and it wont budge any tips???

[kcminitrucker]

and i cant find the fast idle skrew where is it??? ive found the idle mix and idle speed but not the fast idle

[pennyman1]

Get a 24" 1/2 drive breaker bar from HF, a socket that fits the nut, an extension for the socket, and a 3-4" pipe that slides over the breaker bar, then soak the nut with penetrating oil and work the nut back and forth until it comes loose. Or heat the manifold around the nut with a torch until it is red hot, and use the breaker bar and socket to spin it out

[BradMph]

Fast idle screw on a weber is behind the choke pod, almost touching it. come from the back of the carb between firewall and carb and towards the top of the back of the choke.

[pennyman1]

To adjust the choke, loosen the 3 screws and take the choke spring and turn it until the choke plate closes. Push the pedal to the floor once, the plate should open slighty. then start the truck - it should be on the first step of the cam - tap the pedal, it should step down to fast idle - adjust fast idle screw to 1400 to 1600 rpm. The carb will step down to regular idle as the choke warms up - if it drops too fast to curb idle, increase the spring tension on the choke.

[kcminitrucker]

anybody got any pics of there carb so i can see where exactly this fast idle adjustment is???

[Andy 2]

If you go to page 4 of this thread you can see pics posted of my Weber. They're about halfway down the page. If you look at the top right pic you see the Weber's white choke spring assembly. The fast idle screw is behind it. You have to get your head right down in there to see it. You also have to be careful adjusting it as it is easy to cause the choke to kick down. Tighten the screw to speed up the fast idle

[kcminitrucker]

To adjust the choke, loosen the 3 screws and take the choke spring and turn it until the choke plate closes. Push the pedal to the floor once, the plate should open slighty. then start the truck - it should be on the first step of the cam - tap the pedal, it should step down to fast idle - adjust fast idle screw to 1400 to 1600 rpm. The carb will step down to regular idle as the choke warms up - if it drops too fast to curb idle, increase the spring tension on the choke.


is the screw in the center of the pic right behind the choke adjustment the fast idle adjustment?13707

[Andy 2]

Yes it is.

[kcminitrucker]

alright sweet my truck is now running perfect no more deiseling not running rich startes immediatly when cold now all i have left to do is get that friggin bolt out and plug it up and my work will be done im prolly just gonna ask my neighbor to do it lol thanks for your help guys

[pennyman1]

thats what we are here for...

[n2paint]

Awesome read. Im ordering a Weber 32/36 and a header in the next couple weks for my 80 D50 2.6. Cant wait to get this solex carb and exhaust manifold off this engine LOL.

[Oldsarge]

Just finished my install yesterday, and the difference is amazing! That big bolt from the egr tube was the hardest part of the process. I soaked it with kroil penetrating oil for about 2 hours while I was doing other work, heated it with a welding torch, oiled it again, then used a 30mm axle socket with a 24"breaker bar and a 3' cheater bar! Also sprayed the kroil inside the tube to get some on the inside as well. When it finally broke free I was so happy!

The truck was running so crappy for so long it belched out a ton of carbon and soot, and settled into a nice idle! New life in this truck, so now it's time to detail it out, and probably going to sell it. It's been a good little truck, but no room for it.

I've enjoyed this thread, it helped a lot, and I appreciate the help!

Oldsarge

[noahwins]

It's really amazing how much the engine was held back by the OEM carb, huh? Like it was breathing through a straw. The Weber is jetted pretty well out the box but you can fine tune it and get it running even better with a Redline Weber 32/36 jet kit. There's an outfit in Washington that sells them on eBay.

[noahwins]

Found it! The kickdown bracket I swore I had seen before. Scroll down part #45136.029 Throttle valve control lever (CU) 32/36 DGV DGEV DGAV

Pair that with one of the cable brackets. Would that work or is this a dead end?

http://www.carburetion.com/sitesearch.aspx?category=DGEVlink&Title=Linkage%20for%20Weber%20DGEV%20Carburetors

[pennyman1]

so that is what that is for - I think I have 1 or 2 of those laying around somewhere...

[Andy 2]

I think my conversion kit came with one as well. I can't wrap my head around how it would work though. When someone figures it out I'd like to see a pic.

[Pooklord]

I am not sure if I should start a new thread or not, but I believe my questions seem to fit best within this thread. I've only posted a few times on this forum, so if this assumption is false someone point it out.

Some background: I have a '85 Dodge Ram 50 4wd pickup, manual tran with the 2.6l engine. Some, but not all, of the emissions equipment had been ripped out or disconnected when I bought it. It gave terrible gas mileage, ran so rich the cab reeked of gas when it was started and it idled very poorly both cold and hot. After reading up on this and other forums, I decided to get a progressive Weber 32/36 (not a knockoff). After speaking with the order guy on the phone he confirmed that a K610 was the correct kit to order.

Since the throttle plate opens counterclockwise, instead of clockwise (the mikuni) and is on the right side of the carb instead of the left (the mikuni) with the gas port on the front also on the right side of the carb instead of the left, I am thinking this is NOT the right kit for this pickup.

Is there a Weber kit that would install easier onto my truck than the K610? The features I am most interested in is a throttle plate which opens the throttle in a CLOCKWISE direction instead of counterclockwise and gas inlet tube on the left instead of the right.

NOTE: I am assuming there actually IS a 32/35 Weber carb kit which has these features. However if this kit is the closest match for my truck I will stop whining and get to the necessary mods. :-)

I have already dry fitted (no loctite or grease) this kit to my manifold and it fits fine except for the things I have mentioned.

Thanks

Matthew

[Andy 2]

If your throttle cable has the cylindrical end you might want to look at the k614.
I think that k610 carb is supposed to mount with the linkage at the front. That will make the throttle cable pull from the right side. Here are the reassembly instructions for the k610. Note line #17.

Universal Reassembly W/ REDLINE WEBER CARBURETOR



15. Remove rag from manifold opening. Install the carburetor adaptor as follows; (Use Loctite on all bolts and
studs during installation of adaptor.)

a. Select the gasket that matches the intake manifold carburetor-mounting surface and coat it with
grease or a suitable gasket sealer (Silicone or RTV is NOT suitable). Install the universal adaptor
noting the position of the carburetor for the cable operation. Torque nuts to 12 ft. lbs.

b. Install the 8mm studs with the kit into the top adaptor half. Hand tighten these studs.

c. Set the carburetor base gasket over the studs on the adaptor. Install the Weber carburetor onto the
adaptor and gasket. Install the throttle cable bracket on the two mounting studs opposite the choke
housing. Install washers and nuts supplied. Torque the carburetor nuts to 12 ft. lbs.

d. Cycle the linkage by hand to check for sticking or binding. Remember over tightening causes
binding. Correct any linkage problems now before proceeding. NOTE: the automatic choke will
be set in the cold start position and unless the choke plate is held open the throttle will not return to
the fully closed position.

16. Install the three position throttle lever with the holes towards the top of the carburetor following the directions
in the bench assembly instructions.

17. Install the carburetor to the adaptor with the linkage toward the front of the vehicle and tighten to 12 ft lbs.

18. Use a "keyed" 12 volt source to connect to the choke and the idle cutoff valve.

19. Connect the throttle cable bracket to the valve cover and connect the throttle cable to the linkage. Check for
full throttle position and free throttle movement. If there is any throttle bind correct the problem before
proceeding.

20. Connect the fuel line from the pump to the carburetor with the supplied hose.

21. Connect the vacuum advance port to the distributor with the supplied hose.

[pennyman1]

sounds like you got the dgev carb - if you want it to work like the original, then you want a dfev carb k614. I have been running a dgev carb on Geronimo for over 30 years with the linkage in the front of the carb - the boomerang bracket is what relocates the cable to work with the carb.

[Pooklord]

ok, I did not know what that flat L shaped bracket was for--I will do some more research. thanks.

Matthew

[pennyman1]

Go to my gallery pics - #16 shows the carb installed with boomerang

[Pooklord]

Ok, Looking at #16--I don't see the boomerang plate--the throttle cable seems to be sitting on top of the valve cover before it attaches to the throttle assembly on the carb.

Btw, I noticed that last february, you and some other users were answering the questions posed by another user who was asking just about exactly the same questions I am asking now in this thread http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/4388-Weber-Carb-Install-Questions/page2.
It seems he ended up ordering the 90 degree bracket which is displayed in the instructions but does not come in kit. I may do the same unless I can figure out how to make the boomerang bracket work--doesn't it require another part which he also didn't receive in the kit? I don't seem to have that part either, just the boomerang.

[Pooklord]

I believe I found a picture that illustrates what you are saying Pennyman1--I think it is from the old mightyram50 site:
15082

[pennyman1]

Yep that's what I was talking about - the angle of the pic doesn't show it as well as this one does.

[Pooklord]

I got the carb installed with the throttle and choke working well. The Boomerang plate works just fine although it does stretch the throttle cable casing a bit.

I believe I just need to find the right hoses to hook up to the one fuel inlet on the back of the carb nearest the firewall to a inlet on the fuel pump.
There are two other connections on the fuel pump and I assume one must go back to the fuel tank, I don't know what the 3rd connection would be to.
There are plenty of pics of that model fuel pump on the web but none which show the hose connections!

If anyone has a link to such a pic, I would love to see it. Once I get everything up and running properly I will post pics of the connections.

[Andy 2]

If you check the Wiki tab at the top of this page then click on fuel management there is a diagram of a fuel pump with the connections labelled.

[Pooklord]

Thanks Andy--I got it running last night. MUCH smoother idle, even when cold! Very happy with results. I will take more pics and post them.

[bluebandit]

Finished installing my weber 32/36 last night. Set all Idle screws to baseline settings per Redline paperwork and fired it up. It started immediately but started ramping up the RPMs until it was almost max and I killed it. Checked throttle linkage, reset baseline screws, and fired up again and same thing shot straight up to max RPM. Any Ideas?

[Andy 2]

I would back the idle speed screw right off and then check the throttle cable to be sure it is allowing the throttle to close all the way. If the idle speed screw is set up without the throttle plates being completely closed to start with, the motor will rev too high as the choke opens. I would also check the fast idle screw adjustment.

[bluebandit]

Thanks Andy 2, I will adjust it out and update later

[jamesw]

does your have the elec choke?
is it stuck?
if you have the elec choke try unhooking the wire and see if that makes a difference.
if you can take a few pics of your install maybe someone will see whats (if any thing) is out of place.

[bluebandit]

Thanks for the input jamesw. I removed the throttle linkage completely and brought the fast idle screw out a bit. Started it back up and it seemed to be idling a smidge lower but it wasn't until I hit the throttle bracket that it settled down to a low/soft idle. Sounded smooth as butter and everything seems to be running fine, no leaks, etc. I let it run at idle for about 20min and everything stayed steady. Been reading up on this Fast Idle setting that happens when you hit the gas prior to cranking and it opens the flow so I can warm up faster. I think that's what happen the first time or two because I was used to giving it gas to start with the mikuni. Without pushing the gas it starts and idles fine. The throttle cable may have also been pulling on it to much so I need to adjust that out as well.

Edit: Pics of the whole install in my galleries if anyone gets curious.

[jamesw]

glad to hear you got it figured out :thumbup: i went out this morning fired mine up and suddenly i was hearing a high pitch whistle i,m like what the heck?
so i started doing the listen close thing pressing here pressing there and all of a sudden i found it grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr my carb was lose as a goose the set screws that hold the plate to the intake and backed off some how so after taking everything off and finding the screws lose i may have made a big boo boo hope not but i put some lock tight on the set screws and torched them down as for the second adapter plate i left them alone just tighten them down good and snug .
got the carb back on adjust the idle and the little ole girl is back up and going good again.
i was starting to think that after reading your post with your problems that maybe it migrated over to mine lmao
another thing while i was putting the carb back on was something i noticed the little rod that comes from the choke to the throttle was real close and hanging when ever you really got on the gas .
i took a pair of needle nose pliers and bent it over so that it has some clearance.
also notice mt fancy kick down link cable lol
hay it works great
16403

[Kerrigan]

Did you use the existing mechanical pump off the head?

Just did a DGEV on my 2.6 5-speed... cant believe i waited so long... Its 99% better now than the "rebuilt" OEM pile... Now if i can just fix my "stuck" brakelights !

[Kerrigan]

What is the difference between the REDLINE and the Weber Direct carbs? I have one of the older ones, a Weber ... any problems with these on a 1980 2.6ltr?



I swear Weber had a 36/36 progressive that would fit on our trucks..now I can't find it. If you can, and want a bit more "oomph' without the gas-sucking of the 38/38 Synchro...buy one.

I know with both Redline and Weber Carbs Direct, if you specify your make/model, you will usually get the appropriate adapters as well as mounting plates (conversion kit).

[Kerrigan]

If the little rubber bumper is missing replace it otherwise the plunger will slip into the hole and the brake light then stays on all the time.


Its the brakelight switch at the top of the pedal - just unscrews and unplugs. About $20 - its used on many different cars and trucks of the era. Don't bother getting a used one; it is just as old and ready to fail.

[Jacepaul]

I'm still going through all the posts but just pulled my intake/carb off (87 2.0 auto)... dear lord that's a mess!!! researching all the info for the swap lol

[geezer101]

What is the difference between the REDLINE and the Weber Direct carbs? I have one of the older ones, a Weber ... any problems with these on a 1980 2.6ltr?

The Redline is a genuine Spanish made Weber carb - Weber Carbs Direct sells a chinese version that has an internal fuel metering system that can't be altered due to poor design and quality castings/machining. They are impossible to tune and cause the rich/lean fuel problems that can be tuned out of a genuine Weber. This has been extensively covered here on MightyRam due to the large number of people who have been burned by the copycat carbs sold by WCD - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2854-Thinking-about-buying-a-weber-carb-Becareful!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Kerrigan]

Would a Weber made 10 years ago be the "good one" or the junk?


The Redline is a genuine Spanish made Weber carb - Weber Carbs Direct sells a chinese version that has an internal fuel metering system that can't be altered due to poor design and quality castings/machining. They are impossible to tune and cause the rich/lean fuel problems that can be tuned out of a genuine Weber. This has been extensively covered here on MightyRam due to the large number of people who have been burned by the copycat carbs sold by WCD - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2854-Thinking-about-buying-a-weber-carb-Becareful!!!!!!!!!!!!

[geezer101]

If the body and diaphragm covers etc have the 'Weber' logo and name cast into the metal then you can be assured it'll be the genuine deal. The copies have stickers and dye printing on them.

[Kerrigan]

Has the white choke housing instead of the black, the white is supposed to only be on the good ones.

I'll look for stickers and dye-printing to be sure.

Just need block off plates now ... and it looks like those are not common.


If the body and diaphragm covers etc have the 'Weber' logo and name cast into the metal then you can be assured it'll be the genuine deal. The copies have stickers and dye printing on them.

[80d50]

I am not starting a new thread because I feel like the answers to this are relevant to the topic. I did not find my answer in the thread however(hope I didnt miss it)

So i installed the 32/36. I used the fender mounted original fuel filter with the 3 ports. I ran one to return and one to the carb. Started it up and it ran fine then i noticed a few drops of fuel coming from the stock pump but I had to pick up a dresser so i went anyways.

I had read prior to getting the weber (after i sent the fake back to webercarbsdirect) that you have to install an electric pump and regulator.
My questions are,
1. what is the stock fuel pump pressure supposed to be?

2. Do you have to install electric + regulator?

3. If i replace with manual pump will it mess up the carb over time?

I drove the truck with the slow drip about 20 miles round trip without issue. I realize I need to replace the leaking pump, but as I asked above, is it necessary to run an electric and regulator?

Thanks for your time.

[geezer101]

The Weber requires a lower fuel pressure than the Mikuni to operate. High fuel pressure will cause flooding and affect how the truck runs. If I recall correctly the mechanical pump runs 6-9 psi of fuel pressure and the max needed for the Weber is 3-5 psi. The fender mounted "fuel filter" is a recirculation cannister - you should notice an inline fuel filter before the mechanical fuel pump. Now the recirculation cannister may very well be enough to drop fuel supply to the carb to overcome the potential high pressure issue. If it's running right and the only problem you have is a leaking mechanical pump (which is a bad problem to start off with) I'd have a tendency to think you may not need to go electric with a regulator.

*side note - if your recirculation cannister is a metal one, be warned. They have the potential to rust out. There are plastic cased units but I think it's going to be a scrounge through a JY to find one...

[80d50]

The Weber requires a lower fuel pressure than the Mikuni to operate. High fuel pressure will cause flooding and affect how the truck runs. If I recall correctly the mechanical pump runs 6-9 psi of fuel pressure and the max needed for the Weber is 3-5 psi. The fender mounted "fuel filter" is a recirculation cannister - you should notice an inline fuel filter before the mechanical fuel pump. Now the recirculation cannister may very well be enough to drop fuel supply to the carb to overcome the potential high pressure issue. If it's running right and the only problem you have is a leaking mechanical pump (which is a bad problem to start off with) I'd have a tendency to think you may not need to go electric with a regulator.

*side note - if your recirculation cannister is a metal one, be warned. They have the potential to rust out. There are plastic cased units but I think it's going to be a scrounge through a JY to find one...

I thought it was an odd filter and it is in fact metal. I think the pump was leaking when I bought it since the area under it is free of oil =). It may just be leaking more now due to more back pressure with the weber.

I will probably go ahead and just get the electric pump and regulator. The truck will be used infrequently so I wanted to do as little as possible to make it run. paid 500 for it and the weber/tabs has already doubled that.

Thanks for the info.

[Andy 2]

I've been running a Weber with the mechanical pump for 2 years without issue. I made sure to run the third port on the pump to the to the fuel return line and I use a Mr. Gasket pressure regulator set at 2 1/2 lbs.

[Kerrigan]

I'm going to install a 2-3 psi electric pump by the tank and remove the mechanical one.

[pennyman1]

I have run Geronimo with an electric pump back by the tank for 32 years. I am running a holley 5 PSI pump with no reg, with 1 filter before the pump and one before the carb and have no issues. He is also an 1980 D-50 sport with 2.6 and a 5 spd manual. When getting a pump the higher the flow rate the better - weber carbs are more flow rate than pressure sensitive to a point.

[Kerrigan]

The electric one I installed gauges 6.4 psi at the carb inlet which I was told is too high for the Weber I have (Made in Spain)? Supposed to be 2-3 psi pump at the carb... no? Now I don't know ... lol!


I have run Geronimo with an electric pump back by the tank for 32 years. I am running a holley 5 PSI pump with no reg, with 1 filter before the pump and one before the carb and have no issues. He is also an 1980 D-50 sport with 2.6 and a 5 spd manual. When getting a pump the higher the flow rate the better - weber carbs are more flow rate than pressure sensitive to a point.

[pennyman1]

what pump did you use?

[treycw]

I have an 85 power ram with the 2.6, i went ahead and got a 32/36 weber with the electric choke. installed it all last night and purrs like a kitten but as soon as i put it in gear and go to move it wants to stall and not move at all. If anyone has any idea what the problem is your help will be greatly appreciated. I better mention I installed an electric fuel pump also. Airtex e8004. I'm not using a regulator because the pump itself is only rated for 6 psi max pressure and I've heard the webers only need 3.5 to 4psi to operate properly.

[Kerrigan]

I read 3psi max or they flood out .. like that. Using a 3 psi electric pump on my install back by the pump.

[Andy 2]

If your fuel pressure is too high you'll over power the float and flood the motor. When you give it gas to drive, the accelerator pump fires a shot of gas into the throttle body to compensate for the rush of air that gets drawn in when the throttle plates open. If it didn't your motor would stall from too lean a mixture. If your running rich because your fuel pressure is too high, the shot of gas from the accelerator pump may be enough to flood it.
You could try putting a tee in the fuel line and connecting the fuel return to it. That will take some of the fuel and return it to tank and lower the pressure at the carb.

[treycw]

Thanks Andy 2. It was putting 6psi to the carb so I put a regulator between and dialled it down to 4 psi. Going to try 3psi tomorrow Kerrigan because it's still rich. Thanks again for the help and input

[geezer101]

Sorry but it looks like the Airtex E8004 isn't suitable for the Weber. You need a fuel pump that can handle more than 35 gph but only 3.5 PSI max pressure (the Airtex E8004 specs state 6PSI and 35 gph). Keep in mind that the Weber needs a bit more of an aggressive ignition tune to make the most of it - a good high output ignition coil and adjusting the timing to not only ensure you get a good, clean burn but to also get the engine to punch more from mid range rpm upwards. Something like this should be more suitable http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-42S-Universal-Electric-Fuel-Pump-External-Applications-Gas-2-3-5-PSI-42-GPH-/222453740833?hash=item33cb46b521:g:25wAAOSwmgJY2VF c&vxp=mtr
Some sites recommend a pump like a Carter rotary pump with an output of 60-70 gph but I think that would be more for competition/racing as the carb would be always drawing a high CFM rate.

[Andy 2]

I use a Carter 4070 with a pressure regulator and have no issues other than the pump is a bit loud.

[treycw]

I have the fuel regulated to 3.5psi and a stock ignition and it's running okay.. just a little rich. What kind of ignition parts is everyone going with? I'll up grade the pump when I have a little extra cash and probably do ignition the same time.

[jamesw]

1988 dodge ram sport 2.6l with manual pump thinking about putting in a elec pump
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12V-Low-Pressure-Universal-Electric-Fuel-Pump-With-12-Volt-2-4-PSI-US-/152386293959?hash=item237aee50c7:g:zccAAOSwo4pYcE-F&vxp=mtr
just to see what difference it might make.
does it have to be mounted back by the tank on the frame or could i just block off the manual fuel pump lines and mount the elec fuel pump somewhere under the hood.
what difference will it make?
and what do i do with the return line coming off the manual pump?
do i just cap it off?

[geezer101]

You can just disconnect the lines and leave it where it is. Only time a mechanical pump can cause you grief is when the diaphragm in it splits and dumps fuel or it leaks oil (or it is tired and isn't supplying a constant/adequate amount of fuel). You will need a fuel recirculation cannister if you use an electric pump on the Mikuni carb as it has an external accelerator enrichment pump (the cannister has a main fuel in, one out and another line for the accelerator pump). The other connection on the accel pump housing connects to the tank return line. As for the coil replace it with a new coil (either a direct OEM or a transformer type coil with the same OHM rating) and as long as the rest of your ignition components are good all you'll need to do is retune the engine. I would install the pump as close to the fuel tank as possible so it won't struggle to prime from empty and will be quieter (add a filter before the pump as well to protect it from junk going through it and wearing it out)

*looked at the ebay listing above, my opinion is you can buy better quality and quieter pumps for a few bucks more (a hint - look at the Mr Gasket pumps and then compare them to the Carbole brand. Notice anything?)

[jamesw]

You can just disconnect the lines and leave it where it is. Only time a mechanical pump can cause you grief is when the diaphragm in it splits and dumps fuel or it leaks oil (or it is tired and isn't supplying a constant/adequate amount of fuel). You will need a fuel recirculation cannister if you use an electric pump on the Mikuni carb as it has an external accelerator enrichment pump (the cannister has a main fuel in, one out and another line for the accelerator pump). The other connection on the accel pump housing connects to the tank return line. As for the coil replace it with a new coil (either a direct OEM or a transformer type coil with the same OHM rating) and as long as the rest of your ignition components are good all you'll need to do is retune the engine. I would install the pump as close to the fuel tank as possible so it won't struggle to prime from empty and will be quieter (add a filter before the pump as well to protect it from junk going through it and wearing it out)

*looked at the ebay listing above, my opinion is you can buy better quality and quieter pumps for a few bucks more (a hint - look at the Mr Gasket pumps and then compare them to the Carbole brand. Notice anything?)
ok thanks geezer i forgot to mention that i,m running a weber carb as for the cheap pump i was just eye balling the cheapest ones i will go with a better brand now that i have a direction to go thanks again
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291917097087?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true

[geezer101]

When I finally get around to rekitting my 34DATA Weber and swapping the head + modded manifold I'll be using one of those Carbole 42S pumps. I have a Carter 4070 pump in my stockpile but it was noisy as all get out and the 42S pump is nice and compact (plus it's the same as a Mr Gasket pump without the price tag).

[BradMph]

If your running rich on your weber, I'm sure you know to re-jet them to lean/richen then out to your specs or elevation. The pump shouldn't really matter if it is regulated properly to the carb which looks like you have. FYI

Not sure if that was mentioned. I thought I would bring it up just in case. :)

[Kerrigan]

That's the one I got for Mitzi ...


Sorry but it looks like the Airtex E8004 isn't suitable for the Weber. You need a fuel pump that can handle more than 35 gph but only 3.5 PSI max pressure (the Airtex E8004 specs state 6PSI and 35 gph). Keep in mind that the Weber needs a bit more of an aggressive ignition tune to make the most of it - a good high output ignition coil and adjusting the timing to not only ensure you get a good, clean burn but to also get the engine to punch more from mid range rpm upwards. Something like this should be more suitable http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-42S-Universal-Electric-Fuel-Pump-External-Applications-Gas-2-3-5-PSI-42-GPH-/222453740833?hash=item33cb46b521:g:25wAAOSwmgJY2VF c&vxp=mtr
Some sites recommend a pump like a Carter rotary pump with an output of 60-70 gph but I think that would be more for competition/racing as the carb would be always drawing a high CFM rate.

[Kerrigan]

I was told the cleanest installation on the stock motor is to remove ALL the pollution control crap, leaving just the valve cover breather (unless you want a free-breathing external filter on it), hook up the fuel pump (3 psi type) without fuel tank return or vapor canister crap, and the vacuum advance line. Everything else can be scrapped, so the expert said.

[Kerrigan]

And you're going to want to grab one of these ... few remaining. Fuel pump block off plate.
Delphi Fuel Pump Block-Off Plate FA0007

[geezer101]

I was told the cleanest installation on the stock motor is to remove ALL the pollution control crap, leaving just the valve cover breather (unless you want a free-breathing external filter on it), hook up the fuel pump (3 psi type) without fuel tank return or vapor canister crap, and the vacuum advance line. Everything else can be scrapped, so the expert said.

That will depend on what Weber carb you're using. If it has a return line and a fuel bowl breather you should retain the connections into the fuel tank. I have actually cut the EGR gallery completely off the manifold I have modified for the 34DATA I will be installing and had the EGR port through the head sealed off. The 4G63 has a differently designed fuel pump to the 4G54 so I am probably going to make my own block off plate to delete it. The anti pollution stuff on these engines makes them dirtier to run than what they are capable of without it...

[pennyman1]

Geronimo ran clean without any of the pollution crap and with no cat. But when I had the exhaust done the last time, I had to put one on or my exhaust guy wouldn't do it. He actually runs better with a little back pressure - the exhaust without it was too good and killed off low end torque.

[Kerrigan]

Installing the Weber made in Spain for the manual tranny with throttle linkage on the correct side, with electric choke. On a 1980 D-50. So ... the issue now is install it stripping out ALL DEQ crap, .... or having to leave some of it ... like vapor cannister, etc.
The instruction manual appears to say "dump it all" and just hook up vacuum line, valve cover breather hose, and fuel in line from a 3.0psi pump.
So which is the correct way??

[geezer101]

If the carb you have installed doesn't have a fuel bowl vent outlet/connection to the vapour cannister or a fuel return line, remove the cannister and cap the lines off (all deleted vacuum lines included). There isn't a 'correct' way to do the install, just the way that best suits your end goal.

[maxdsm]

Pics for Weber thread. : these are to help anyone with there install.
Will be adding more .

[Kerrigan]

That setup looks different from what I'll end up with ... my throttle cable hooks right up like stock.

[geezer101]

There are a number of throttle configurations with Weber carbs. They have clockwise, counter clockwise, opposing side and opposing end throttle linkages. We have a write up on model identification codes and what they mean.

[Kerrigan]

Couldn't find the link to the list ... is it on this site?


There are a number of throttle configurations with Weber carbs. They have clockwise, counter clockwise, opposing side and opposing end throttle linkages. We have a write up on model identification codes and what they mean.

[jamesw]

Couldn't find the link to the list ... is it on this site?

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/210-Weber-32-36?highlight=model+identification+codes

[Kerrigan]

I just installed a Weber 32/36 on my 80 d50 and i love it!
I'm getting ready to do the same on my 1980 2.6 ltr D-50. Have a 3psi electric pump by the tank.
Any helpful hints about the install, especially what you did with all the pollution control stuff - vapor tank, ERG valve, etc.
Thanks!

[Kerrigan]

If the carb you have installed doesn't have a fuel bowl vent outlet/connection to the vapour cannister or a fuel return line, remove the cannister and cap the lines off (all deleted vacuum lines included). There isn't a 'correct' way to do the install, just the way that best suits your end goal.
Is there any need to keep the EGR valve and associated hose?

[geezer101]

Nope, ditch the lot. It is an inherent part of the issues with these engines - the EGR system messes with the engine tune and most of the time no longer functions due them being fouled up by carbon. You can simply disconnect the vacuum hoses to the EGR valve as they don't on draw manifold vacuum internally (obviously cap off the vacuum barb the EGR valve hose was connected to on the manifold or you will have a vac leak as a result).

[jamesw]

Nope, ditch the lot. It is an inherent part of the issues with these engines - the EGR system messes with the engine tune and most of the time no longer functions due them being fouled up by carbon. You can simply disconnect the vacuum hoses to the EGR valve as they don't on draw manifold vacuum internally (obviously cap off the vacuum barb the EGR valve hose was connected to on the manifold or you will have a vac leak as a result).
yeppers agreed that what i did when i installed mine got rid of all the mess i was amazed at how much room there was afterwards lol the only thing i have hooked up is the vacuum advance from the distributor to the carb caped everything else off

[Kerrigan]

Thanks you-all!! Going with the strip-it-all approach. What did you do with the exhaust manifold heat shield and piping (huge)?

[geezer101]

A friend of mine recommended a simple but practical solution - remove the tube and install an o2 sensor. Plugs the hole and gives you something to monitor your engine tune. I had an EGO meter in another project and nothing gives you a more accurate indicator of how your mixtures are looking in real time. I would leave the heat shielding as the factory manifold isn't a work of art and you really need to do everything you can to keep engine bay temps down.

[Kerrigan]

What about the big pipe which comes from the heat shield and wraps around the rear of the valve cover? Can it go?


A friend of mine recommended a simple but practical solution - remove the tube and install an o2 sensor. Plugs the hole and gives you something to monitor your engine tune. I had an EGO meter in another project and nothing gives you a more accurate indicator of how your mixtures are looking in real time. I would leave the heat shielding as the factory manifold isn't a work of art and you really need to do everything you can to keep engine bay temps down.

[geezer101]

Yep, that can go too. You'll have to find a bung or cap to seal off the intake end of the pipework but it will get rid of the ridiculous amount of plumbing hanging off the engine and eliminate the risk of an exhaust/intake leak in the process. This EGR system was bad news for engine performance - you should be able to get it running really well once this junk has been deleted.

[jamesw]

Yep, that can go too. You'll have to find a bung or cap to seal off the intake end of the pipework but it will get rid of the ridiculous amount of plumbing hanging off the engine and eliminate the risk of an exhaust/intake leak in the process. This EGR system was bad news for engine performance - you should be able to get it running really well once this junk has been deleted.
when i got my weber it came with two plugs i put one in and about a week later i was going down the road and it blew out talk about loud lol sounded like open headers . so i put the other one in this time i used red loc tight so far so good.

[87RAMFIDDY]

Hi i'm not sure if this is the best place to post this, since i am new to the forum. I am wanting to replace my Mikuni with the weber 32/36. Its an 88 2.6 4wd. Not sure the differences between the few carbs that are offered. Can someone tell me which model it is that i need? Thanks!

[Kerrigan]

My kit is the KM614 I think it's for the 1980 D-50 2.6 ltr with manual tranny, no mods required. Just installs cleanly.

[87RAMFIDDY]

So with my 2.6l 4wd 88 i need the 32/36 DFEV, Is that correct?

[Kerrigan]

Don't know about it for the 88 ...mine is a 80.


So with my 2.6l 4wd 88 i need the 32/36 DFEV, Is that correct?

[geezer101]

The carb configurations are all identical across the carbied trucks, so as long as you get the adapter kit and the throttle linkages are on the same side and rotation it's a straight forward enough deal. Guys with auto transmissions need a kick down adapter kit to go with it.

[Werks]

I must ask as i cant beleive theres nothing in here/barley any info on the entire web, about jetting these for the 4g54.

Im running:

Both idle jets:
55
Primary/secondary fuel:
145/140
Primary/secondary air jets:
170/175

This goes like stink, but it sucks gas ( not yet worked out the milage as my fuel gauge is a bit buggy)

I have extractors, 2.5 all the way thru with a hotdog, m6 head, bottom end is out of a forklift with forged crank/forklift oil pump( so no balance shafts) ported top of manifold and an italian weber with the redline adapter smoothed out.

Im running the mech fuel pump off the head, line into the weber and line out into the fuel return line on the chassis.
Blocked off fuel return on the mech pump.

Plz post what jets your running, as id love to fine tune the weber for a bit more economy

[Werks]

19947
19948
Fuel in on the right, return on the left. I'm not sure what the carb came off, its a DGAV 19A elec choke and the choke butterflies open down toward the fuelbowl.
Other photo is the dodgy looking but effective throttle body cam I modified to work as I wanted the fuelbowl forward so the jets arnt starved from inertia.
Also used a large spring off an old carter carb as a secondary throat kickdown and to make sure the throat is fully closed when off the gas. Theres a little resistance and a pop when the secondary's open

[pennyman1]

The mechanical pump over powers the weber needle and seat, forcing gas through the carb like you are dumping it in with a bucket. Change over to an electric pump at 4 psi, mounted at the tank will fix the problem. You must get the pressure right to the carb before messing with the jets.

[Statesboro Blues]

that picture has now changed, its no longer offered

[Kerrigan]

What about the big pipe which comes from the heat shield and wraps around the rear of the valve cover? Can it go?

I dumped ALL EPA stuff; only kept the vaccum advance line, the idle-cut-off vacuum hose, and the crankcase breather pipe to the air cleaner. All the rest went. Runs great!

[geezer101]

OK better get this up quick smart - see that metal cannister with the coloured tape on it? HOLD ONTO THE DAMNED THING. This is super handy for doing the Weber swap and redirecting fuel lines for fuel return systems. If you can't use it, some else doing the Weber swap definitely will. It's from the single inlet in/out mechanical fuel pump.

[pennyman1]

It is a fuel separator canister - it was on the early d50s up to 1981 in the US. Geronimo still has his.

[Kerrigan]

OK better get this up quick smart - see that metal cannister with the coloured tape on it? HOLD ONTO THE DAMNED THING. This is super handy for doing the Weber swap and redirecting fuel lines for fuel return systems. If you can't use it, some else doing the Weber swap definitely will. It's from the single inlet in/out mechanical fuel pump.

Didn't need it to put the Weber on the 1980. One fuel line in, no return. Works great with just fuel line in, one vaccum advance line, and one crankcase vent breather pipe. Did leave the idle-cutout in to avoid more pipework.

[maxdsm]

https://youtu.be/IPHApqdf77s

[85Ram50]

Here is what I did to replace a Weber I apparently screwed up when I rebuilt it. I put a new one in and its all good. I do have a 1/2" spacer made of some kind of heat resistant plastic which is necessary on mine as heat affects the carb without it. As for the exhaust manifold removal of the smog pipe, I used a freeze plug. The prev owner had removed all that stuff and one day driving it whatever he had plugged it with popped out. Blew my mind for a few until I figured it out. I think it was 1 1/8 or 1 1/4. Fits tight hammered it so the top is level with the top.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/6520-put-in-new-redline-weber-K610-kit?highlight=redline+weber+K610

[geezer101]

Any idea what you did wrong during the rebuild of the other Weber? New Weber looks good. Make sure you set the throttle stop as it prevents the butterflies from being seated up hard against the throat walls (looks like it wasn't set in the picture)

[85Ram50]

I got all that worked out. The install as in July 2017. I have no idea what I did wrong. I learned to be a mechanic on this truck starting with that mistake. My previous experience had been rebuilding my Yamaha 750 triple (4 stroke) carbs. I didn't figure there would be any problem. I still have it stuffed in the box the new one came in. I also have some extra parts they sent along that seemed unnecessary or I did not need. :)
Edit- In fact I have noticed that it is starting to get better mileage and take off from a stop better in the last few months. I think I might finally start breaking 300 miles on a tankful.

[RiskyNick]

I just ordered my k614. There is a factory kick down lever for the auto trans. Think it was $5. The redline guy discounted everything.


Does anyone know what size the coolant holes on the manifold are? I was going to plug them just want to have everything on hand. I'll post up pics of my fuel pump and stuff.

[85Ram50]

Does anyone know what size the coolant holes on the manifold are?

You should drain the coolant below the level of the base of the carb mount surface on the intake. The hole are not very big using a rag to keep dirt out while you work around it should do fine. I just opened the petcock on the rad and let it drain into a clean bucket. If you want to see it look at the picture in the link I posted to my thread called "everything off"

[geezer101]

You don't 'need' to plug the coolant holes up. Well, the coolant barb off the manifold where the heater hooks up to needs to be deleted but you can take the whole thing off and install a straight brass barb on there - makes it neater. However there is a coolant port under the base of the carb that you can seal off just to make sure it doesn't come back to haunt you. Use a metric M6 thread tap into the port and drop a hex key grub screw with some thread sealant in there to block it off. Done deal. Did the same to my intake manifold. It seemed to be one of those things that was either overlooked or no-one had come up with an easy way to fix it.

On the subject - there is a coolant gallery that passes from the manifold base to the thermostat chamber. If the 4G54's intake is anything like the G63B's as far as coolant flow is concerned, that gallery could be badly restricted from factory. I did something that, as far as I know doesn't get any thought - I ran the biggest drill bit that would fit from the thermostat chamber through that gallery to improve coolant flow (crazy, if not suicidal - I know...) It went from barely being able to poke a HB pencil through it to at least 8mm in diameter. Haven't tested it yet but if it helps coolant pass through the head faster, it was simple to do and worth it.

[risingphx25]

I' m late to the party but I finally picked up a Weber 32/36. Somewhat installed; I only have one fuel line and no return? Wiring in an electric pump via an add-a-circuit using the horn. Did have a question about setting up the cable.https://flic.kr/p/26YnHEShttps://flic.kr/p/MAzhC7https://flic.kr/p/MAzgyd

[geezer101]

That is correct - no return line. Cap off the existing return line. Don't use the horn as a power supply - splicing into an accessory circuit is dodgy and it will get constant power with the ignition off. Use a relay that takes power from the ignition circuit to trigger it (from the ignition side into the coil) and run power with a fuse straight off the battery through the relay so it is guaranteed a constant 12+v to run the pump. There is a throttle cable bracket that mounts to the rocker cover (most guys refer to it as a 'boomerang' - best way to describe the shape of it)

[risingphx25]

https://flic.kr/p/26YnHEShttps://flic.kr/p/28n9AUc

[risingphx25]

Thank you geezer101. Im having difficulty posting pictures but I seem to be missing the "boomerang".I'm trying to locate the pressure line at the rear of the tank where I can splice in the fuel pump as well.

[geezer101]

In image #2 there's a fuel filter (the white plastic cannister) which is connected to the main fuel line. Install the electric fuel pump in that location with the fuel filter between the tank and the pump. If you want to post pictures directly, click on 'Go Advanced' at the bottom of the posting box, scroll down to 'Manage Attachments'. From here you can start up an album by either downloading from your PC or from a URL. Insert image from the album into your post and you're good to go :thumbup:

[risingphx25]

Oh wow I feel like a dufus for missing that. I ran to an issue with Carbole pump, the outlet came apart, i want to say its not supposed to be like that.

[geezer101]

Might be able to reinstall the O ring and tap it back in with a hammer. They're only press fit (as you can see) so it should be o.k. but visually check it for any signs of leaks.

[risingphx25]

I was able to push it back without much force. Even though its relatively low pressure I'm wary of it coming apart with vibrations. Ive read some have used the AC DELCO EP42S, not sure if its a viable alternative. Plus its all metal and not much more .

[risingphx25]

Ended Installing the Weber and the electric fuel pump. Runs so so, seems to be running rich per the spark plugs. How can I lean it out?2094520946

[geezer101]

It might be jetted for the 2.6. Another member was having a similar issue with their 2.0 so I managed to find a guide for rejetting the 32/36 -

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/5024-Weber-jetting-correct?p=44898&viewfull=1#post44898

[risingphx25]

It might be jetted for the 2.6. Another member was having a similar issue with their 2.0 so I managed to find a guide for rejetting the 32/36 -

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/5024-Weber-jetting-correct?p=44898&viewfull=1#post44898

Awesome much appreciated! Bear in mind I have made no adjustments to anything yet, plopped on and started the truck. Starting to feel a bit overwhelmed.So I should open up the carb and check the main and idle jets? I assume they will have numbers to be identified. From what i've read timing should be adjusted as well?

[geezer101]

Yes on both counts. The Weber will generate more vacuum than the Mikuni and has a tendency to be heavy on ignition advance. Dialling it in is trial and error and will also depend on fuel (it was recommended from factory the G63B should run on 97+)

[risingphx25]

Yes on both counts. The Weber will generate more vacuum than the Mikuni and has a tendency to be heavy on ignition advance. Dialling it in is trial and error and will also depend on fuel (it was recommended from factory the G63B should run on 97+)
Opened it up today
60 primary idle
50 sec idle
140/140 prim/sec fuel
170/160 prim/sec air correctors
Emulsion tubes F50

[geezer101]

So going by the recommended jetting table you need to swap the primary main for a 1.35 and the secondary main for a 1.30. Both the idle jets need to be 0.50 and the air correctors are primary 1.75 and secondary 1.45. Dropping the sizes on the mains should get it running leaner. Weird the primary air corrector is smaller than recommended but the secondary is HUGE in comparison (wonder what they were jetting it to run?)

[risingphx25]

So going by the recommended jetting table you need to swap the primary main for a 1.35 and the secondary main for a 1.30. Both the idle jets need to be 0.50 and the air correctors are primary 1.75 and secondary 1.45. Dropping the sizes on the mains should get it running leaner. Weird the primary air corrector is smaller than recommended but the secondary is HUGE in comparison (wonder what they were jetting it to run?)

Not sure actually, no wonder its puffing black smoke. I called Pierce Manifolds and they mentioned they worked for either 2.0/2.6's. I found this site for picking up the jets https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1583

[maxdsm]

(it was recommended from factory the G63B should run on 97+) ??? Ive been running 87. Although I've only ran 2 or 3 tanks since my rebuild . Should I switch to 97?? I'm also wondering if the holley FPR I have on there causes a lack of fuel to accelerator pump because I have to pump the gas like 5 or 6 times before it wants to turn over. Also lmk if the different size jets make a difference? Seeing mine is a 2.0

[geezer101]

(it was recommended from factory the G63B should run on 97+) ??? Ive been running 87. Although I've only ran 2 or 3 tanks since my rebuild . Should I switch to 97?? I'm also wondering if the holley FPR I have on there causes a lack of fuel to accelerator pump because I have to pump the gas like 5 or 6 times before it wants to turn over. Also lmk if the different size jets make a difference? Seeing mine is a 2.0

Yes, jetting the Weber down for the G63B is important. It'll be drowning in fuel and more than likely make it that much harder to start. What fuel pump are you using? If you use a high volume, low pressure pump you shouldn't need a FPR on it.

[pennyman1]

Geezer is talking RON octane numbers - US octane is different - RON 97 is roughly 89 octane US.

[87junker]

I really need to open mine back up and get all the sizes wrote down for mine. I'm not sure what mine was even jetted for the po didn't say where he even got it from.

[risingphx25]

So far it has improved, it doesn't smoke like a coal train anymore. Need to pickup a timing light to dial it in. How far advanced/ retard should I go?

[maxdsm]

Noted penny man. I am using the manual fuel pump and a holley FPR. It stays in between 3 and 5. But fluctuate s in between when running. I just don't understand why I have to step on the gas 5-7 times before it will turn over. I took the accelerator apart and the diaphragm is not ripped or torn. And seems to be functioning regularly.?

[risingphx25]

Well ;made changes to the idle mixture and idle screw and now it diesels. Could it be the carbon build up from before? Out of the box settings did not cause dieseling.