mightyram50.net

new here looking for info on getting my jdm cyclone 4g63 from my galant vr4 (which was just in a accident and i am unable to save her) so i have a damn good motor with all the goodies... 750cc's, keydiver stg3 chip, mhi evo3 16g, fp race manifold, aeromotive fpr, 3g mas and so on.. made about 346 awhp in the galant vr4 at 24psi (full boost before 3400 rpms ) and she can take more. The wiring harness is in awsome shape and readdy for a new body.. i have 2 questions.. a. will a 4g63 bolt to a stock rwd might max / d50 manual trans without issue beside the thermostat housing? b. Who makes motor mounts for the 4g or will i be making my own?

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I have that motor I'm about to put in my 88 Ram50. Using a 5spd from a 2.0 truck will work. Both narrowblocks. I've been getting very useful information off of hotrodcoffeeshop (link available off this site.) And projectzerog.com. I have a post on this site about the 4g63 swap with some info.

i am a member on hotrodcoffeeshop, and was reading your post.. the cyclone makes such a different in low end spool.. i made a full 28-30 psi before 3500.. it was great. I am looking for a truck now and hope i can find one local. The owner of hotrodcoffeeshop seems to be a local to me only about 20mins away. My chip i have uses the fpr selnoid to activate the butterfly's in the cyclone at 4800..Everything from the vr4, ecu , harness and motor right into the d50. I have to do some reading up on the motor mounts, they would be the only thing im still looking into. I also did the balance shaft delete which is a must in a 6 bolt motor.

Wondering about whether or not the the stock narrow blcok RWD will handle the 346rwhp. Might wanna find the 904auto minimopar or get a Hichner adapter.

If you want to bash in your firewall a bit you can use stock 2.0l mighty max mounts, or I believe use two of one side of Starion brackets if you can find those. If you don't want to bash your firewall in a little bit it is best to make new mounts that move the engin forward about 3" or modify stock ones for that.

Yeah but even with the two rightside mounts, ya got to modify them to mount engine 3" forward. If I'm wrong I must be using the left sides.

Yes, using starion or mighty max mounts will leave the engine in the stock position and you will have to bash in the firewall as I said. You can modify them to have them move the engine forward 3" with a little bit of work though.

Only reason I doubted myself is I haven't modified my mount yep. Noticed I said mount, still got to get another one!

i have that same motor in my 83L200 (jap version of your D50) i used the factory 2l rwd mounts just had to move the fire wall directly behind the motor back to make room for the thermostat housing and cam senser, it wasnt hard, using the factory mounts means the gearbox bolts to the factory position and you dont have to change anything else, the only issue i had with the gearbox was the flywheel ring gear, the od of the vr4 ring gear is smaller than the od of the L200(D50) so the starter dosent engage i had to make one but the end result is alot of fun, hope this helps

L200, most folks end up moving it forward b/c unless you have some time and skill to move the firewall youd have to cut it out vs were most folks just stand in the bay with the biggest hammer they can find.

When they use the different mounts, they also use the Starion/Conquest Tailshaft and that remedies the shifter hole location problem.

And the problem with the ring gear is a new one to me.